Air Lift RideControl Air Spring Kit for 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013 and 2014 F-150s with 2WD or 4WD.
Continue improving the overall production of your 2010-2014 F-150 while also ensuring a safe, sufficient and comfortable towing and hauling performance by ordering this RideControl Air Spring Kit from Air Lift.
Features & Benefits:
- Pair of Adjustable Air Springs
- Mounts Between Leaf Spring and Frame
- Helps Make Towing & Hauling More Safe & Comfortable
- Provides up to 2000 Pounds of Leveling Capacity
- Includes Brackets, Air Lines, Schrader Valves and All Necessary Hardware
- Eliminates Swaying, Bottoming Out and Squatting
- Improves Braking and Steering
- Works with Existing Suspension
- Fits all 2010-2014 F-150 Body Styles
The pair of air springs in this kit are fully adjustable from 5 to 100 PSI, providing even weight distribution and tire wear. This will help make for a more comfortable ride and safer tow. These RideControl air springs will easily mount between your leaf spring and frame to provide suspension support. Working with your F-150's existing suspension, Air Lift's 59568 kit provides up to 2000 pounds of leveling capacity.
Air Lift includes brackets, air lines Schrader valves and all of the necessary hardware that you'll need within this kit. Once mounted into place, you'll immediately notice an improved braking and steering performance from your truck. This air spring assembly will also eliminate any squatting, swaying and bottoming out, while also ensuring safe and proper headlight aiming.
*This will NOT fit 2010 F-150 Raptors.
Warning: Never exceed manufacturer's recommended Gross Vehicle Weight Rating.
Air Lift has focused solely on designing, engineering and manufacturing the best suspension products since 1949. Because all of our attention is focused on suspension products, you can be sure your family and cargo¹s safety is top priority. CJ Pony Parts is proud to provide a variety of items from Air Lift that you can check out at any time.
Purchase Air Lift's 59568 RideControl Air Spring Kit for your 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013 or 2014 F-150 with 2WD or 4WD from CJ Pony Parts today!
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This kit includes everything that you need from installation. From the brackets, the pump, wiring, plumbing, and the controller. Since the owner of this 2014 F-150 EcoBoost behind me does a lot of towing, we're going to make his truck a lot safer today by installing this Air Lift rod control kit. For this installation you'll need a lift or a jack and jack stands, a 1/4 inch ratchet, 8 millimeter socket, 10 millimeter socket, 1/2 inch ratchet, 13 millimeter socket, 18 millimeter socket, an extension, a 1/2 inch wrench, 9/16ths wrench, 3/4 inch wrench, a pair of cutters, wire strippers, cut off wheel, and safety glasses.
First thing you're going to want to do is get the truck up in the air and take the wheel off, and then remove this bump stop with a 13 millimeter socket. Now with the bump stop off we can remove these 2 tabs. To remove these 2 tabs you can use a hack saw, a sawzall, a Dremel, really any cutting tool. We're going to be using this 3 inch, or used to be a 3 inch cut off wheel. Now that you have these cut off you need to make them completely level with the rest of the bump stop. Now we can install the upper spring mount by installing a J hook in the frame rail. Then grab your upper mount. Put a J bolt with a washer and nut on it, and put the J bolt through the other hole.
Just get these loosely installed for right now. Once you get the bolt through the bump stop installed into the upper mount, you're probably going to need an extra set of hands for this. Then you want to leave this a little loose so you can get everything adjusted and then torque everything down. Then you can start to torque these down. Now these bolts are a little bit too long to get a socket on them because we need to torque them to 10 foot pounds, so we're going to cut these down and then torque them. Now we can torque these to 10 foot pounds.
With the upper mount installed we can now install the lower mount with the spring. To start off we're going to install this air fitting to the top of the spring. You're going to thread this in by hand, and then once it gets hand tight, you're going to give it 2 turns with a 1/2 inch wrench. Now do 2 rotations with a 1/2 inch wrench. 1, 2. To mount this up you might have to blow some air into the spring, or pull it out because it does come a little bit compressed, so we elongate it by blowing some air into it. Grab the supply bolt and washer, and put it through the slot in the mount, and loosely install it. Now we can install the spring and lower mount. You want this angled part of the bracket facing outwards, the inside of the bracket won't have anything, and place it on top of the leaf spring.
You can now install the supplied U bolts. Put a washer on each side, and then the supplied nylon nuts, and install the other U bolt. Then you can tighten down these nuts with a 9/16th wrench. This might take a while. Now with the spring and lower mount secure you can put this nut on top of the spring. Get it over the air fitting. Now with an adjustable wrench we can tighten up the nut on top of the spring. With a 3/4 wrench you can tighten up the bottom bolt. This step isn't entirely necessary, but these U bolts are a little bit long and they're kind of ugly, so we're going to trim them down and make them look nice. Now that the spring is in place and everything is tightened up you can repeat the process on the other side.
We can now mount the manifold and the compressor. We're going to be mounting these underneath the bed right near the gas tank. We had to fabricate this little S bracket for the manifold. You can mount these however you would like. They don't come with brackets, so we decided to make our own. We put some adhesive film on here to insulate it from the gas tank so it doesn't rattle. We're going to be drilling 2 holes right here, and using self-tapping screws to secure the brackets. With the holes drilled we can now use the supplied self-tapping screws to install the bracket. Now we can install the compressor using the self-tapping screws. We used the supplied hose and cut it to length. Now we can connect it from the manifold to the compressor.
To make this a little easier, we actually heated it up with a heat gun, and it slid over perfectly. Now we can connect it to the manifold. We can now install this T fitting to the manifold. This is going to branch off the lines and go to each spring. Now we can run a line to each spring off of this T. We have the airline running straight off the T this way towards the frame of the truck, and then down the frame. Now we can connect it to the spring. Now we can repeat the process on the other side. We're not going to install this auxiliary air hose that has a schrader valve on it, you can choose to install this wherever you want on the truck. We're going to drill out this hole for one of the license plate screws, big enough for the schrader valve to fit through.
We're now going to cut the auxiliary air hose. It's very important when cutting these hoses. You want a very nice, clean cut. We're now going to splice into this air hose to install a T fitting for the auxiliary air hose. With the T fitting installed, we can now route the T fitting auxiliary air hose. We're now going to install this nut and washer on the schrader valve. This will be on the backside of the bumper. Then we're going to put a washer on there, a lock washer, and then a nut. We're now at the final stages of this project. What we have to do now is the wiring. We're going to mount a relay for the system to one of these self-tapping screws. Reinstall the screw. Now we can plug in the connector to the manifold.
We're going to connect the ground for the compressor on this screw. We're now going to connect the power wire from the relay to compressor. We need to cut it, strip it, and crimp it. Then we can put it together. Now that it's crimped we can connect it to the compressor. With everything connected back here, we can now run the wiring harness up to the engine mate and connect it to the fuse panel. We now have the wiring harness ran all the way up to the engine bay. Now we're going to connect this connector to the ground wire and connect it to the negative terminal, and then we'll connect the power wire to the fuse box. Now we can move on to the fuse box.
We're going to tap into a 15 amp fuse using the provided fuse tap. This is the provided fuse tap that we're going to be using, just simply remove the fuse, put this tap around it, and reinstall the fuse. We're now going to use this inline fuse holder connected to the fuse tap, and then to the power wire for the harness. Now connect the fuse holder to the fuse tap. We're finished with the fuse panel now. We can close it. With the fuse still out of the fuse holder, you can strip both wires and crimp them together. Now we can install the 15 amp fuse. Now we can test the system and also clean up the wiring. This is the remote that they provide to turn it on. Hit one of the dotted buttons and they go up. You can either press the button to go up with 1 pound increments or hold it, and it will go up with 5 pound increments, and the same thing with going down.
We're at 5 PSI right now. We'll take it up to 30. Now we can test out the system. We're going to pump it up to 30 PSI. All right the system is working good. Now we're going to let it down. Our Air Lift ride control system is installed. It works great. It's going to make towing and hauling a lot better and safer. Installation should take you 3 to 5 hours, and before you know it you'll be heading down the road.