Air Lift Performance Complete Digital Air Suspension Kit for 1994, 1995, 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003 and 2004 Mustangs.
Are you tired of trying to find the perfect ride height for you Mustang using coil springs or coil overs? Replace your standard suspension and step your game up with this air ride kit from Air Lift Performance. This complete bolt-in kit comes with everything you need to adjust the ride height of the 1994-2004 Mustang with a press of a button. This will give your Mustang an aggressive stance but give you that performance you’re looking for.
Air Management System Includes:
- AutoPilot V2 Digital Controller
- Advanced Air Lift Manifold
- Viair 380 Compressor
- 4 Gallon Aluminum Tank
- 1/4″ Air Line
Please Note: This Air Lift Performance Air suspension kit will Not work on 1999-2004 Mustangs with IRS (Indepentent Rear Suspension).
This AutoPilot Digital Controller features a sleek design with a rugged, rubberized coating to help protect against drops and scratches. The cool thing about this controller is that it reads the pressure individually on each corner of your Mustang as well as the tank pressure. The digital display can be customized with 512 different colors to choose from, making it easy to find the right color.
The V2 Controller has 8 different presets offering the right ride height for every driving situation. When driving your Mustang the air management system constantly monitor your pressures in the bags and adjust to your desired preset. If you don’t like the preset you can manually change the pressure on each corner.
If your system is having performance problems the controller has a diagnostics feature that checks compressor performance and compressor run times. This also will alert you if you have a leak, a low pressure situation, communication failure or if there is something wrong with your valve.
The front suspension kit is a direct bolt in installation making it easy for any skill set. This front air monotube strut can be adjusted 4.8″ inches. The treaded monotube strut can be finely tuned for adjustment as well as ride comfort. The upper spherical bearing mount helps prevent binding when turning your Mustang when it’s lowered. The front strut has the ability to be adjusted 30 different ways.
Front Suspension Includes:
- Pair of air-over monotube strut
- Stainless Steel Leader Air Lines
- 1/4″ and 3/8″ PTC Fittings
- All Mounting Hardware
- Detailed Instruction Manual
The rear Air Lift Performance suspension fits in the same location as original using the original lower control arms for installation. The rear air shock allows you to lower the rear of your 1994-2004 Mustang 5.8 inches. This rear shock can be adjusted to give you the factory ride height when aired up but give you that killer look when aired out. This is achieved with the 30 different adjustments for driver comfort.
Rear Suspension Includes:
- Pair of Monotube Threaded Body Shocks
- Pair of Sleeve-Style Air Springs
- Pair of Stainless Steel Leader Air Lines
- 1/4″ and 3/8″ PTC Fittings
- All Mounting Hardware
- Detailed Instruction Manual
For many owners, a lowered Mustang is a must. Traditionally, that look is accomplished with lowering springs and a prayer that a pothole doesn't appear around the next corner, causing the car to bottom out. However, with an air ride suspension from Air Lift Performance, you can give your Mustang that lowered look at times, then just raise it up when potholes start appearing in front of you. These suspensions are designed with performance in mind, too, giving you an even better solution.
Purchase a new Air Lift Performance Complete Digital Air Suspension Kit for all 1994, 1995, 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003 and 2004 Mustangs from CJ Pony Parts today!
Product ReviewsWrite a review
Will this kit work for an 03 svt cobra? or do i need to have a solid rear axle to make this possible
Any recommendation on install shops for this product in the Long Beach area? Thanks
If not? What system will fit my Cobra?
does this kit work with a normal mustang or it have to be a gt
Would these fit on my 1990 gt? If not what need's to be done to make them fit?
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This uses their VT controller. It's going to include front struts with the bags already attached, rear shocks, rear air springs, an air tank, an air compressor, as well as the controller, and every wire and hose necessary for installation. These are the front struts provided in the Air Lift Performance kit. As you can see they have a knob on the top there, fully adjustable, so not only do you have adjustable for ride height with the bag, you can adjust the compression of the strut as well. These will be direct bolt and replacements for the factory struts, on your '94 through 2004 Mustang. Between the adjustable sleeve as well as the air bag itself, you have almost 5 full inches of adjustment with the front struts. The rear shocks are also fully adjustable, so along with the bags you have almost 6 inches of adjustment in the rear suspension. You can get whatever ride height you're looking for, and then dial on the compression on the shocks and struts to get the best possible ride and performance. The heart of the system is the Autopilot V2 control system. This is the manifold shown here.
This is going to connect the electronics of the system, and connect all the bags, and this is the valve body that controls the bags going up and down, which controls air coming out of the tank. The controller, which is going to mount in the interior of your car, features 8 presets, as well as adjustability within 1 psi plus or minus when you're setting your ride height for performance. In addition to the 8 presets, it also has a rise on start feature, that when you turn the key on, it's going to rise to your drive height, so you don't have to drive the car with it setup too low. There's also several configurable features in the controller, and we'll show you that once the system's installed. Before we begin the installation, you want to figure out where you're going to mount everything.
The tank, the compressor, as well as the manifold, you're going to have to mount them most likely in your trunk. You're going to want to have a clear line to get to everything, so you're going to be fitting wires as well as air hose. To install your Air Lift performance suspension, you'll need a lift and jack or jack stands, and a basic selection of hand tools. The only specialty tool required for the installation is going to be a hose cutter, which is provided by Air Lift Performance with their kits.
There's basically 2 schools of thought when it comes to mounting all the components for the Air Lift suspension. You either try to hide everything, or make it all visible to show it off. In the case of our '01 GT, you can tell that the owner of this car is pretty big into the show scene, so he wants all the components visible. We're going to mount the air tank and everything visible right here on the top of the trunk. He's got a custom board already mounted, we're going to use that to mount air components. It's a lot easier for you to see this outside of the car than do it inside the car. This is the setup we're going to go with on this '01 GT. We're going to have the compressor mounted here to be powered up, it's going to air into our tank that'll go out to the manifold, then out to all four bags.
Once we've located everything, we're going to bolt it down, then we're going to move on to installing the actual suspension components, then we'll come back later here and hook up all of our hoses and wiring. Before we get started with the front suspension, we want to make sure you're aware of a few things. One, this car currently has caster camber plates. These will not work with the Air Lift suspension. The Air Lift has its own plate mounted to the strut, but you will need the factory supports from the original plates. If you don't have them, you want to pick them up before you begin the installation. To install our front strut assembly, we have to remove the original strut, as well as the original spring. The spring is under pressure, so make sure you actually put a jack underneath the control arm and support it. Once we bolt everything, we can lower the jack down, and then carefully remove the spring. First thing we're going to do is unbolt the sway bar.
Now we're going to be removing this nut here. When you take that off, you're going to remove this plate, which is support for your ABS line. To give ourselves more on the lower end of the suspension, we're also going to pull the ABS line off the rear bracket in here, right behind the splash shield. Since we're going to be dropping down the spindle itself, we got to take off the caliper. The caliper line's not long enough. If you drop it down, you're going to stretch out the line and damage it. What you're going to do is remove the caliper's bracket, and put them inside and secure them out of the way. The last step here on the strut is to remove these two nuts and bolts. With everything disconnected, now we can lower down the control arm, and lower the spring. Now we'll start the removal of the strut.
Now we're going to remove our caster camber plates, as we can't use it. I have the original suspension, so once we remove this I'll show you what we have to do for your original suspension, to prep up for installation of the Air Lift. If you have the stock suspension, this will be the support bracket that will be left once you remove the strut. If you have a caster camber plate, you'll need to get a pair of these before you can install your Air Lift suspension. What you'll want to do ... This is riveted in place. One rivet in the back here. One rivet on the side. Drill the rivets out, that way this can slide, and it will be used as a support for our Air Lift. Now we're going to remove our spring. If you have an original spring, a spring compressor's probably a good idea. In our case, we have a set of older lowering springs, these will come out much easier. Now we're ready to prep our front struts for installation. If you look on the bottom of the strut, they are side-specific, so make sure you grab the correct one.
First thing we're going to do before we install it is install the air line. What I'll do is thread it in, it's hand tight. Make note of where it's at, because you're going to turn it 1 3/4 turns. That's 1, and 3/4. Now, it's ready to be installed in our Mustang. We'll put our new Air Lift strut up into place. Up here, you want to make sure all your studs are facing as inboard as possible. If you have it all the way out like this, you're going to have some clearance problems. Push it in until it's on the original support plate, then tighten it down. See the nuts are on again, make sure you're not slid outward, make sure you're slid inward, and then you can tighten it down. Just get them snug, because we're going to torque them later and tighten them down. Now you want to jack the control arm back into place. Make sure you line up your sway bar inlay. The bolt's in place, now re-install the nuts. Now, tighten them down.
With everything tight, re-install the ABS bracket. We'll tighten that down and re-install the ABS line and back in the clips on the body. Re-install the bushing and the sway bar inlay. Take that just till it starts to crush. Last step here is to re-install the caliper and rotor. For a long way down the road, it will make it easier to line the caliper back up. Okay, once everything's bolted down here, we're going to go back up top and torque down the top bolts. We'll torque all three to 24 ft-lb. We'll repeat the process on the other side, and move on to the rear. Now we're going to move on to the rear suspension. The first thing we're going to do is remove the sway bar, then we're going to lower the control arms down and remove our stock springs. We're going to remove the ABS sensor off the bracket to give us a little more access to the bolt.
You want to support the lower control arm, because it's under pressure from the coil spring. We're going to remove the bolt, and lower down our jack and remove the spring. Okay, and remove all the stock spring parts. Once the springs' out, now you can push the control arm back into place, put the bolt back in. You're not going to want to tighten everything down yet, but put it back in place, and later we'll install the bag itself. Again, just get it hand-tight for now, we're going to tighten it back later. With the control arm removed, now we're going to remove our shock. Now you're going to move into the trunk and remove the top nut from the shock. Make sure you have someone holding the shock, so when you remove the nut, it's not going to fall out. Now have somebody help you by holding the shock in place. We're going to install the upper bushing and bolt it down. Okay, repeat the process on the other side. I'll move underneath, we'll jack it up into place, reinstall the lower shock hardware.
Tighten it up and repeat the process on the other side, and re-install your sway bar. Now we're going to start installing the rear air bags themselves. We want to grab the braided line that's included, put a little paste on it and we're going to thread that in. The same as everything, hand-tight and 1 3/4 turns. Next, install the upper perch. Simply bolts in place. Okay, that's ready to go on the car. Put the bag up into place, and what you want to do is fish the line up through the factory perch and out the back. You want to make sure the upper perch actually fits inside this opening up here, now we can install the lower piece. This plate's going to go below the control arm to center the lower part of the bag. We're going to put the proper fittings now on all of our braided lines on all four corners. Then we're going to start running the actual nylon air lines. As far as running the nylon lines, there's several different ways you can do it. There's no correct way, there's no wrong way. Basically, you want to keep it away from heat.
You're going to run it through the interior of the car, exterior of the car, wherever the easiest way to run it is. Again, keep it away from heat, or anywhere that it's going to kink. You want to make sure when you connect the front line ... You want to have lots of play in this line. You want to make sure you can go full turn-to-turn and not have any clearance problems. We're just going to make the connection for now. We'll go back and tie this line safely out of the way later. Connecting the lines is very easy. You want to make sure you've got a perfectly straight flat cut. If you have it at an angle, you have an edge on it, you're going to get leaks, it's not going to work properly. If it's flat, all you do is simply press it in. Give it a good tug, then it's locked in place. If there are leaks for any reason, just push it in, push down on this collar, then it will come right out.
Fish it up through the back here, then we'll come back and tie it out of the way later. You can see I am fishing the entire line through that comes with it. You can try to guess your measurements, but I find it easier to just do this. That way, you're going to be a little more accurate as far as your cuts go in the length that you use. We're using a factory hole in the trunk. If at all possible, always try to use factory holes, factory grommets. When installing stuff like this, I always try to drill as few holes as possible. Cutting a line is very easy, it's a plied cutter. Just basically lay the line in the bottom, make sure it's straight, push the line to cut it. With the air lines all mounted, now we're going to install the drain line. This can be used to drain the tank, or actually fill it remotely as well. What we did is a factory hole right here, we opened it up just a bit, put the drainer right here in the corner. The drain has the same style fitting as everything else.
Just push it in and lock it. Now we're going to start on the wiring. The wire harness might look a little intimidating, but really there isn't much to it. This plug here goes to your controller, this goes directly to your battery. This goes to a 12v source. This plugs into the manifold. These two here will power your actual compressor, and this is your relay that you mount in the trunk. That's all there is to it. Air Lift provides enough power and ground wire to go all the way to the front of the car to your battery. In the case of the '01, your life's a bit easier, because the battery's right here in the trunk which is a short run. The wires we have to fish to the interior are going to be the 12v switch to the fuse box, and the controller for fishing to the center console. Air Lift provides this adapter for a fuse. Just pick a fuse as a 12v switch, put the adapter underneath the fuse, and plug it in.
Now we're going to terminate the wires that go to our battery. Just end the ring terminal to the negative, then grab one of the provided fuses to the ring terminal, and that goes to the positive. We're going to cut the pink wire here and install the inline fuse. You can install the fuse in the front or the back, it doesn't really matter. Since there are other fuses here, we're going to keep them both in the same place. Make sure as you're doing this, do not put fuses, that way there's no power or anything in it. Okay, now basically our wiring in the vehicle is done. Now we can go prep the tank, put the board in, and start connecting everything. Now we're going to make all the connections on the tank. We have it out of the car, so you can see everything we're going to do here. The bottom is the air drain. That's the one that goes over to the valve stem, which we mounted on the bottom of the bumper.
That's going to be that connection there. In our case, this side here's going to be the connection to the compressor, as well as a plug. This side here is going to go to the manifold, and the other one will also be a plug. Now we're ready to connect the tank back into the car. The fittings on the manifold are the exact same as the ones at the bags. You have your front left, front right, then rear left, rear right, and then your tank and your exhaust. Connect the exact same way. We'll connect the tank one now, you'll simply push it straight in. Then we'll tug and see it's locked in place. Make our connection up here to our filter. I'll put this in the car and make the rest of the connections. Now we'll install the fuses. Now we'll test everything. When we turn the key to accessory, we should hear the compressor turn on, and you can grab the actual controller and watch the pressure grow in the tank. You want to make sure you get some pressure in the tank before you test any of the bags.
Now we'll test out the whole system. Now we're going to go in the calibration mode by hitting 1 and 5 and holding them down. Here you can set what pressure you want the tank to max out at, we're going to leave it 150, that's fine for what we're doing. Now we have the tank set, we'll go into calibration mode, and then we'll go to system calibrate. Now when we do this, you want to make sure ... If you have the car, you'll want to hook it up to a battery charger of some sort, because it will take some time to do that. Basically, what it will do ... It's going to go through and check controls on all the different corners, as well as the bags, the release, the compressor, make sure everything's working properly. Basically, what it's doing now is it's raising the front of the car in small increments, basically making sure it has control over everything. Rise on start's a really cool feature. The Air Ride, you don't want to ... You're definitely going to want to turn that on.
Basically how that works ... Is when you set your presets up, the car when you turn your key on the start, it's automatically going to go to your drive height. That's something like that ... If you take it to the show, cruising that or whatever, and you lay it on the ground, that way you don't try to drive it all the way down, because obviously if the car is all the way down, you're not going to be able to drive it. When you get it setup for what you want for your preset, you're going to hit 1 and 5 simultaneously, hold it just for a second so you'll go into preset mode. You'll hold the button, you get to the edit, and you can set the psi where you want the psi to be. We're just going to make it 48 all the way around, make it nice and easy. Hit 1 and 5 at the same time. See that 0, then preset 1 is set at 48 all the way around. Now we got rise on start turned on. Now we'll get out of here. Watch when you start the car, it will rise up.
Once the suspension's working properly, you're going to want to go back and torque down your lower control arms, and make sure you tie and hide all the wires and cables and hoses out of the way. While the car looks great laid out on the ground like this, this isn't all an Air Lift performance is about. Thanks to the fully adjustable shocks and struts, plus the easily adjustable height thanks to the air bags, this is a truly high-performance suspension right at home at the track or on the street. The installation is not terribly difficult, but it is time consuming. Give yourself 6 to 8 hours, and be back on the road in no time.