ATP Turbo Mirror Polished Bolt-On GTX2867R Turbo with a .64 A/R Turbine Housing for all 2013, 2014, 2015 and 2016 Focus STs.
ATP Turbo's complete mirror polished Garrett GTX2867R turbo assembly with a .64 A/R turbine housing is a direct bolt-on replacement for the 2013-2016 Focus ST's small factory turbo. ATP Turbo has taken all the guess work out of upgrading the Focus ST's stock turbo and assembled this amazing bolt-on unit with all the necessary components needed for a safe, hassle free installation.
Assembly Features and Benefits:
- Garrett GTX2867R dual ball bearing, oil and water cooled turbo assembly
- .64 A/R turbine housing for faster spool up with less top-end power
- Flow capacity up to 475 horsepower
- Beautiful mirror polished finish on the compressor housing
- Direct bolt-on fitment in the stock location
- Comes with internal wastegate pre-assembled
- Built-in external wastegate port (Tial MVS) for future expansion (capoff provided)
- Has a V-band flanged turbo adaptor
- Will fit the stock oil drain tube
- Any stock turbo flanged downpipe will fit
- Any stock placement intake pipe will fit (adapter elbow provided)
- Any stock placement charge pipe will fit
- Brand new steel braided oil feed and coolant lines are provided
Garrett GTX-R Turbo Features and Benefits:
- 10%+ Gain in flow over traditional GT compressor wheel designs
- 10%+ Higher pressure ratio compared to traditional GT compressor wheel designs
- Forged billet, fully machined compressor wheel for expedited release
- 11-Blade design for improved efficiency and ultra quite operation
- Ported compressor shroud to increase surge resistance
The external dimensions of the Garrett GTX2867R turbo are exactly the same as the Garrett GT2871R turbo. All GTX turbos use the same turbine housing as Garrett GT turbos. Garrett's GTX2867R turbocharger is capable of producing up to 475 whp with the right supporting modifications and is ideal for street, autocross, drag, and rally use.
ATP Turbo (Advanced Tuning Products, Inc.) is a company solely dedicated to turbocharging performance. Their ultimate goal is to engineer and manufacture turbocharging components that make sense. While turbocharging itself is not new, many of the components that they create come from brand new ideas that are applied using basic principles of process improvement and re-engineering to turbocharging systems. Adhering to these principles has helped ATP Turbo design and re-design components for turbocharging, that are often more simplified, but function better, and are more reliable.
The sport compact scene is full of high-horsepower 4-cylinder engines these days, and the new 2013-2016 Focus ST is right there in the mix. ATP Turbo's complete Garrett GTX2867R turbo assembly is the perfect way to keep your 2013-2016 Focus ST ahead of the competition.
Order the ATP Turbo Mirror Polished Bolt-On GTX2867R Turbo with a .64 A/R Turbine Housing for your 2013, 2014, 2015 or 2016 Focus ST from CJ Pony Parts today!
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Does this come with a base Tune Map for AP?
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This bolt on turbo upgrade kit from ATP Turbo is going to provide almost everything necessary to turn up the horsepower on your 2013 through 2015 Focus St. The heart of the kit is going to be the Garrett mirror polished GTX2867R turbo which has a .64 AR. This is going to spool up a lot faster than the factory turbo on our Focus ST and with the bright supporting mods will support almost 475 horsepower. The nice thing with this kit is it's going to be a direct bolt on and a direct replacement for your factory turbo, will bolt to your stock flange and will work with either a stock or aftermarket down pipe.
The ATP Turbo kit comes with this built in waste gate that's already set up for the turbo when you install it but it does have a port if you wanted to add an aftermarket waste gate. ATP provides nearly everything necessary for the installation including the oil feed lines, the coolant lines, all the necessary fittings, silicone couplers as well as the clamps. You will need a custom tuning with this kit and you will need to go with a new style blow out valve.
The stock turbo on your Focus ST is going to have the blow out valve built right into the turbo, this aftermarket kit from ATP obviously is not because it's going to be a larger turbo. What you'll need is to pick up a cold charge pipe mount for a blow off valve available from several different manufacturers. For this installation I need a lift or a jack and jack stands, you need a good selection of hand tools. There are no specialty tools required for this installation but you want a lot of basic hand tools, so make sure you have a good selection before you begin the install.
Almost all the installation on the ATP turbo kit is going to take place underneath your Focus, the first thing you want to do, remove your belly pan. Then you want to disconnect your down pipe and the rear motor mount. RK's going to give me a hand with the installation, while I'm moving all the bolts up here to move the belly pan, he's going to remove this brace and part of the exhaust system. Here's where we get to our down pipe.
We're going reach up and disconnect our O2 sensors. Right now we're going to get the clamp up top here that the turbo to the down pipe, release that U band clamp and remove the down pipe. Make sure as you're moving the down pipe be careful of the oxygen sensors that you don't damage them. We're going to drain the coolant and remove or lower tube from our inner coolant, so to do that unbolt that splash pan and we're going to move that out of the way. We have a stock inner cooler piping on our cobb, the process is basically the same. You disconnect the bolts up here at the collar and then the brackets to get the pipe out of the way.
We're going to move back up to the engine bay and we're going to remove the cowl so that we can reach the turbo easier in the back, get rid of our cold air pipe and take the coolant cap off so we can drain the coolant. Just pull up on these panels to remove them, to remove the cowl you have to remove the wipers. Pull this little rubber cover off and remove that bolt, put a mark up and down where they are so when you put them back on and you don't get them right and it's kind of a pain to get them straight again.
Kind of want to sort of rock them back and forth to get them lose and then you can pull them straight up. Covers off and you can remove the bolts that are located below them, one on each side. To remove the cowl push these little clips in and lift up on that into the seam up under the windshield, kind of get your hand underneath and lift up and pop off. Move our cold air pipe, in our case to get the bolt on this side and you squeeze a little piece in the back here to remove that and then I'll get the clamp down at the turbo.
Remove the core cap now to make it a little bit easier to drain the core, to drain the core just put a hose on this outside nipple here and loosen up the petcock to drain. The next steps going to be to remove the motor mount, this is going to make it a lot easier to get the stock turbo off and pretty much mandatory to get the new larger turbo in place. I'm able to slide this back with the bolts off the chassis and the bolts off the mount here it will give us enough play. We're ready to start disconnecting the turbo now from the engine, eventually we'll take it off the flange. Before that we disconnect the oil lines and the fuel lines, the first thing we're going to do is disconnect these vacuum lines you see over here. What I recommend doing is you take these off and leave them where they go, that will make it a little bit easier when you put it back together and label the waste gate one, the intake, the vacuum. All the main lines, that way when we put it back together you have a rough idea of where everything's going to go.
The rest of the lines are attached to the turbo, so now we disconnect this plug, that's all we can do as far as these vacuum lines over here go. We're going to start disconnecting the lines, when taking off the drain line that goes from the turbo down to the oil pan. Make sure you get a catch pan because you will lose a little bit of oil when you take this off. We're disconnecting it from the turbo side as well, you don't actually have to do this but it'll give you a little more room to work when taking the turbo off. The oil drain disconnected now we move on to the other side of the turbo, take off the bolt to the oil feed and keep a drain pan handy you might get a little oil out of this.
Ready to move on to the coolant lines, we'll going to start with the one at the block right above the turbo. Then have a pan handy you will get a little bit of coolant drain, the second coolant line comes up the engine kind of over towards the driver side. As you can see it's the smaller line over here. You disconnect this clamp here and remove that next. Now we're going to move on to the turbo flange and we're going to start by taking it off the heat shield. We're removing two coolant lines right here on the turbo as well, you don't have to do this but taking these off makes it a little bit easier to get the old turbo out.
We now remove the four nuts and remove the turbo from the flange. We'll mount the turbo and just pull it up. You can see the comparison between our stock ST turbo and our turbo from ATP, obviously the flange looks much larger coming off the exhaust, the air lid on the turbo's twice as large and you can see the compressor side is night and day difference. You can definitely make a lot more power than our stock turbo. We're going to begin prepping our ATP turbo for installation by installing the coolant return line, it's going to go on the threaded side. It's basically the same size of the engine and the bands will bolt with both washers and thread it in.
Ready to put the turbo up on the car, you want to remove this. This fire ring here, make sure that does not fall out, you're going to need that to seal the turbo properly against the manifold. With the turbo mounted we're going to move on to our oil feed line, that's the one we removed from right over here. Start by grabbing this applied fitting from ATP and we're going to thread it in. Now we'll tighten that down. Just get it snug you don't have to kill it, now we'll grab the oil line itself. We're going to assemble this end of the oil line first but don't tighten it down, just thread everything together, get it finger tight. Because the line may have to be twisted a couple times to get it to go right where we want to do it, it'll be easier if these lines are lose to do that.
We're going to put the right angle fitting we just assembled onto the oil fitting we just installed, and just hand tight for now. Move the oil line over and thread that on. You want to make sure the line for the oil does not touch the turbo or the housing in any place because it is hot, once you have everything cleared go back and tighten it up. Now we're going to install the factory oil drain, when it bolts to the block use the original hardware, where it bolts to the turbo there's two of these step down studs you want to thread in place first and then you bolt it on. To install the studs grab the supplied nuts, just thread them in place. Then we can get a socket on there and you can thread the stud in. Now we'll put the oil line on, don't forget the gasket that's supplied with it. Remove one of the coolant lines now by installing these two fittings for the coolant line, one goes into the turbo itself, the other one goes to the block.
This 45 degree fitting is going to go on the fitting we just installed on the block and we'll leave with the line facing outward. Now we're going to install the stainless line, the 90 degree fitting goes to the turbo, the other end goes to the 45 degree we just installed on the block. Make sure everything clears for the output on the down pipe and tighten it down. This is the coolant line that's going to replace the one that went up to the driver side of the engine, what you're going to do is start here is put this fitting on and tighten that down. Got a rubber hose going to put that on next. Now we're going to fish this back up in the driver side of the engine, before we start doing the vacuum lines we got to remove the boost controller and all the lines off the original turbo.
The way this is going to work, we're going to have to add two fittings to the car to make it work, this is the stock set up here, this line here which we labeled already is going to go to our waste gate. This side here is going to go to the charge side of the turbo and the fitting we're going to add in a couple minutes, this one here goes to the non charge side of the turbo, again and a fitting we're going to have to add to this line here it's going to go to the original line off the intake manifold. Now we're ready to install our fittings, this elbow here goes to this cold air kit, so this is the non charged side. One fitting is going to be installed in this. This other line over here this is actually the charge side, this is the one that goes out to our hot side pipe that goes to our inner core. The other fittings going to be installed here and that will go on an existing fitting on the car up at the intake and again that one goes to the waste gate.
Now we're going to drill the holes for our fittings we're going to install for our vacuum, before you do this you want to make sure you put this on the car, make sure you have enough room. Wherever you drill the hole you want to make sure you can reach this fitting also make sure it's not up against anything, you have plenty of room to get a vacuum line to it. Once you get the fitting on and tight put on one of the provided t-clips and that hose is ready we now set up the other one.
Here's basically the set up of how it's going to work on the car, you made the length of the lines to make it work. Like I said this line here goes to our cold side, this is the air intake tubing. This one here goes to the waste gate which is already installed on the turbo, this one here, this is the hot side piping, this is the charge pipe, it goes from the turbo down to our front line inner cooler and that one goes to the factory line coming from the intake which went to the factory blow off valve. We're going to block that off and add a separate line later for the blow out valve. These are the two vacuum line that come down off the top of the engine, this one here in our intake vacuum we're going to use, this one goes to our factory blow out valve. This is what we're going to do here is move this line to plug it up top here, you can actually plug it in the bottom if you wanted to but removing the line makes a cleaner installation.
We think that original line will be using to the back of this block, we're just going to cap off a line that went to the original blow off valve since we're not using that anymore. Then go back over the car and start making out connections, I already connected this applied adapter we just put that fitting into, this is going to go to our cobb cold air intake, this goes to the turbo side itself. We won't tighten anything down yet just get everything in place roughly where it's going to go, we're going to see how this vacuum is going to fit. Now we're ready to put it on the car, we test fit it, these are the length of the hoses we're going to need. This one's going to go to the fitting we installed in our cold air kit in the elbow, that's going to go to our waste gate that's the longer lines it kind of goes over the top, this one connects to the factory line coming down from the intake. This line here will go to the fitting we installed in the hot charge pipe going to our inner cooler.
Once we have all the vacuum lines connected don't forget to plug it back in, now what you want to do is tighten that up out of the way since the factory bracket is no longer here. I'm just going to tie it up here, the brake line just get it safely out of the way so none of the lines are going to hit anything. Now that all of our vacuum lines are connected we can start putting the car back together, we're going to start with the motor mount by putting the bolt in here and reconnecting it to our engine. We're going to reinstall our inner core pipe that goes from the turbo over to the inner core. When mixing parts together from different aftermarket manufacturers this sometimes happens. Or cobb pipe didn't quite reach up to our ATP turbo, what we did is simply cut it right here and put a new coupler to lengthen it enough so it reaches properly.
The next step in the process I'm going to reinstall our cobb pipe, start by putting the clamps on the new turbo. Put both into place, again be careful with the oxygen sensors. Once you have the pipe bolted down now we can reconnect our oxygen sensors. With the down pipe installed not we can reinstall our cat back. Exhaust installed, now we reinstall the bracing underneath. Then we move back up top, start reassembly up here with our cold air kit. Now we're going to finish off the engine bay by re-installing the cowl the wipers and finally our engine cover. We mentioned earlier that the ATP turbo kit will require you to install a new blow off valve, we think that this Exhale kit from CPE that includes the pipe that goes up from the inner cooler to the throttle body and this killer Tile blow off valve. This kit is either meant to work with c-pe's intercooler or to work with a stock intercooler. Since we are running a cobb intercooler we'll have to modify this kit to make it work, this will give us the pieces that we need to finish the installation.
You're going to be replacing this pipe here, we may need to use part of it, we're actually not going to know until we get everything apart, again, since that kits designed to work with a different style intercooler than we're currently running. When we remove this and then we have to add a separate vacuum source which we'll show you in a minute. Here's what we have currently on our Focus ST and these are the parts we have that we're basically going to have to make work. Like we said before you cannot expect every aftermarket manufacturers parts to with other pieces, sometimes you've got to get a little bit creative. The basic shape is the same, what we're basically missing is the elbow, what we're going to do is cut a section off this factory pipe. Going to put these two elbows together that should give us the clearance we need.
Before we can put it on the car we have to assemble the blow off valve and install it on the pipe. Start with a vacuum fitting, put a washer on each side of this. We get that hand tight for now that way we can adjust it when it's on the car, it was a little more play as far as work goes. Okay, now we're going to find a vacuum source on the car and we're ready to install it. There are several places you can get vacuum, in our case we had the perfect solution with our cobb sound symposer delete. You install that there's a port right on top of it where you can install a vacuum allowance to work beautifully with our blow off valve. This is the assembly we came up with that will work with our particular Focus, with our cobb front mount inner cooler. We're using the C-PE pipe and our elbow, just added another piece of metal in here and then use the factory cobb piece to over to the intercooler.
Once we test fit this new one with the vacuum line to point downwards, we tighten this up before we put this on the car. We're going to fish the vacuum line down from our source up top and connect it to the blow off valve. We're going to refill our coolant, here with the coolant topped of we're going to reconnect our battery. We can start it up and check for any leaks. We started it up, checked for leaks, everything's good, now we can reinstall the belly pan and the installation's finished.
The ATP turbo upgrade kit made the Focus a lot of fun to drive, we plan on dynoing this car in the very near future. If you haven't already make sure you subscribe to our YouTube channel so you don't miss future updates.