BMR Front Driveshaft Safety Loop for 2011, 2012, 2013 and 2014 V6 and GT Mustangs and 2012-2013 Boss 302 Mustangs.
Protect your 2011-2014 Mustang while also complying with the NHRA safety rules with a new Driveshaft Safety Loop from BMR Suspension. Constructed from an NHRA legal 1/4" steel plate, the Driveshaft Safety Loop is a form of cheap insurance to protect your investment and provide peace-of-mind whether you are speeding around at the track or casually driving down the street.
This safety loop is provided with Grade 8 hardware for a reliable, strong mount and an easy installation. The BMR Driveshaft Safety Loop bolts-on by conveniently utilizing the OE mounting holes on the factory transmission cross-member found in all 2011, 2012, 2013 and 2014 Mustangs.
The brawny composition and construction of this loop and the supplied hardware provide a surefire back up and fail-safe in case of u-joint or driveshaft failure. This driveshaft safety loop from BMR will keep the driveshaft from whipping and causing further collateral damage to your 2011-2014 Mustang during such a performance failure.
*This BMR Front Driveshaft Safety Loop will not work with Shelby GT500 Mustangs.
Available in a durable black hammertone or red powder coated finish!
Please Note: May require shimming of the safety loop when using an aftermarket one-piece driveshaft.
BMR Fabrication is a premiere suspension component manufacturer for the Mustang industry. They dedicate a large amount of time on research before offering a final product to provide quality suspension components that both look and perform outstanding.
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The loop is designed to keep your driveshaft in your vehicle in the event of a failure. If either u-joint lets go, the driveshaft will break free and can cause the vehicle to pole-vault, causing serious damage. The loop will keep the driveshaft attached to the vehicle to prevent any kind of accidents.
BMR offers Driveshaft Loops for all 2005 and up Mustangs. This particular model here is for the 2005 through 2010 model. It's a two-piece design with this piece mounted to your transmission cross-member and the loop going around the driveshaft itself.
It will require removing the driveshaft, which is simply removing four, 12-millimeter bolts. This is available in both a black finish, which is a hammer tone finish, or also a red finish as well.
This is the driveshaft loop for the 2011 through 2013 Mustang. It's a modular design with three pieces. The loop separates from the cross-member which mounts underneath your factory cross-member to the transmission mount using the spacer that comes with it. This is available in also the black or the red finish, but we've had ours custom powder-coated to match the green paint on our 2013 race car.
Like I said before, all BMR products are available in either the black hammer tone or a red finish. They include all the necessary hardware for correct installation as well as detailed instructions with pictures so you can see how you're supposed to install the product.
For this installation, you'll need: a lift or a jack stands and a jack, a torque wrench, an impact or 3/8-inch ratchet, a 15-millimeter socket, an 18-millimeter socket, a 9/16 socket, and a 9/16 wrench.
We have Gotta Have It Race up in the air for installation of our driveshaft safety loop. You want to check your exhaust system first to make sure your proper clearance. The factory system will have no issues. In our case, we have an American Racing system with a 3-inch X-pipe, which was the way. We removed it previously to make the installation easier to see.
The first thing you want to do is support the transmission since the cross-member has to come out to install the brace. Since the case is aluminum, we suggest putting a piece of wood underneath your jack.
Put your jack into place, resting on the transmission case, lifting it up just until you see it start to lift up and that's high enough to remove the cross-member. Once you properly supported the transmission, you can begin removing the cross-member by removing the two 15-millimeter bolts that hold in the transmission mount.
Once you remove the transmission mount bolts, we'll now move on to the cross-member bolts which are 18 millimeters. Once you go to remove the last bolt, make sure you're supporting the cross-member as it hangs or it will fall off.
Remove the last bolt and remove your cross-member. Since the driveshaft loop mounts between the cross member and the body, BMR provides the spacer for your transmission mount to make sure the angle does not change with the transmission. Before you put the cross-member back in place, you want to install the driveshaft loop itself.
The loop is pre-cut and will clear the front of your driveshaft. You simply slide it over and turn. You just want to just leave it resting in this position until the cross-member's back in place. You want to place the driveshaft from its mount over your factory cross member, carefully lining up the holes, making sure the bracket as angled upward in the back and lift the whole assembly to install in your vehicle. Now, you want to lift the whole assembly into place, lining up the studs on your transmission mount.
Now you want to install the 15-millimeter nuts you removed to hold assembly in place. Now we'll install the supplied bolt and washers holding the cross-member back into the vehicle. You do not want to use the factory hardware since it is too short with the addition of the driveshaft loop.
Now, you want to grab a torque wrench and torque all your bolts to 85 ft. lb. Now, I want to remove the factory nuts you put back in place from the transmission mount to hold the cross-member in place and replace them with the supplied washer and nut.
Now, you want to line the loop up with the cross-member you just installed and grab the provided hardware. Drop your bolt screw from the top. Now, you want to install the supplied washer and nuts. Make everything hand-tight. Now, you want to make sure your loop is centered over the driveshaft, and then you can tighten the bolts.
You want to double check clearance around your loop when you're finished to make sure there's no driveshaft clearance issues. At that point, you can put the car back down the road and you're ready to go. The installation should only take approximately an hour. You should be back on the road in no time.