BMR Red Powder Coated Tubular K-Member with Lowered Motor Mounts for all 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013 and 2014 GT and 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013 and 2014 Shelby GT500 Mustangs.
If you are looking to upgrade and reduce front end weight, it's time to replace the factory K-Member on your 2005-2014 V8 Mustang, this Tubular K-Member with Lowered Motor Mounts from BMR is the perfect choice! BMR's Tubular K-Member is designed to work with both OE and BMR Tubular A-arms and Spindles on all 2005-2014 GT and Shelby GT500 Mustangs with the electric rack and pinion steering.
Ford did a great job designing the 2005-2014 Mustang. Everything comes apart so easily, it almost seems like it was designed by racers. A Tubular K-member may seem like a complicated and difficult installation, however in the 2005-2014 Mustang, it can be done in approximately 3-4 hours with just hand tools! And the 1/2" lowered engine mounts will not only provide a lower center of gravity but will also provide increased hood clearance.
Features and Benefits:
- Manufactured from 1-Inch, 1-1/4-Inch, and 1-1/2-Inch DOM Tubing
- Works with Stock A-Arms or BMR A-Arms
- Offers a 20-pound Reduction Over the Factory K-Member and Engine Mounts
- Designed with 1/2" Lowered Height Engine Mounts
- Designed for Stock Hydraulic or Electric Steering Rack
- Designed for Street Performance, Drag Race and Handling Applications
- Includes ALL Necessary Mounting Hardware
- Proudly Designed and Manufactured in the USA
- Available in your Choice of a Durable Black Hammertone or Red Powder Coated Finish
*To retain the OE aero pan on 2011-2014 Mustangs, modification is necessary as the OE pieces are not a direct fit to the BMR K-Member.
*BMR highly recommends its A-Arm Support Brace (KMB15 or KMB15R) when using its Tubular K-Members for street and/or handling use.
Utilizing a new integrated motor mounting design, for improved clearance and reduced weight, this Tubular K-Member from BMR checks in at only 27lbs. Compared to the OE K-Member weighing 45lbs., this 18lb. difference is sure to be a noticeable and welcome improvement for front end weight reduction. It also provides additional room for headers and turbo systems.
Please Note: BMR's K-member replaces the heavy OE hydraulic motor mounts with high durometer polyurethane bushings resulting in increased noise transmission into the body. These bushings are designed for minimal flex. Decreased motor movement from stiffer motor mounts may create additional NVH (Noise, Vibration and Harshness) into the body.
BMR Fabrication is a premiere suspension component manufacturer for the Mustang industry. They spend a lot of time on research before offering a final product to provide quality suspension components that both look and perform amazing. Most of their products are offered in both a durable black hammertone or red powder coated finish.
Order this BMR Tubular K-Member with Lowered Motor Mounts for your 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013 or 2014 GT or 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013 or 2014 Shelby GT500 Mustang from CJ Pony Parts today!
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This BMR two-meter K-Member will fit your 2011-2014 Mustang GT. It’s available in the black hammertone finish shown here or a red powder coat. There are two different options for your motor mounts, stock height motor mount or they have a lowered motor mount if you want to bring the engine down a little bit into your engine bay. This will work with your stock A-arms. If you’re looking to save a little more weight, BMR does this for a two-meter A-arm as well.
For this installation, you need a Jack and Jack Stands or Lift and Pole Jack, ½” Impact Gun, 3/8 Ratchet, ¼” Ratchet, 22 mm Deep Socket, 19 mm Deep Socket, 18 mm Deep Socket, 13/16 Deep Socket, 17 mm Deep Socket, 17 mm Shallow Socket, 15 mm Deep Socket, 15 mm Shallow Socket, 13 mm Socket, 9/16 Shallow Socket, 7 mm Socket and assortment of Extensions and a Swivel, 22 mm Wrench, 7/8 Wrench, 19 mm Wrench, 9/16 Wrench, Torque Wrench, Hammer, Marker and Safety Glasses.
To start the installation, get the car off the ground or remove both front wheels. Once you have the car from the air, the first step is to disconnect the tire rod ends from the spindles. Then we’ll tap that through the spindle. I’ll disconnect the ball joint from the spindle and get the ball joint out of the spindle. Next we’re going to remove this bolt here from the steering rod. We’re going to mark it before we do so, so we know where everything goes and it goes back together. We’re going to remove these front covers here to give us more access to our steering rack.
Now we’re removing the lower K-Member brace. If you’re storing a Stock Radiator Support, these will be four 15 mm bolts. Since we have the BMR already in the place, the hardware is a little bit different. I’ll disconnect the electric steering rack. Next you want to move up the top and loosen the two nuts that hold the motor mounts on. They’re easy to get to from the engine bay itself. You need a pretty good extension with a 15 mm socket.
Once you have the motor mounts loosened up, you want to support the motor and transmission because now we can remove the K-Member. Right here in the front of the transmission is the best place to support it. You want to make sure you’re on the back side of this bar because this will come off with the K-Member. If you just start seeing it move upward, you’re good to know. There are eight total bolts holding your K-Member into your Mustang. There are two back here, one, two up top here and the same thing on the passenger side. Before we remove the last two bolts and pull up the K-Member, you want to get a jack on the front and it’s not a bad idea to get some help. The fact that the K-Member is on the heavy side, plus your steering is connected to it as well as the A-arms, to bring it down out of the car, it does have some weight to it.
We’ve already done a video showing you how to install long tube headers with the K-Member in place. If you decide to do long tubes, if you have the K-Member out like you have today, it’s a perfect opportunity to pull your factory headers off and put a set of long tubes on. This car currently has Kooks but we’re going to pop those off and install a set of JBA long tubes. Once we have the K-Member on the ground, we’re going to remove the steering rack. We’re removing these three bolts right here.
Since we’re planning on reusing our factoring A-arms, we’re going to remove those next. Here’s our stock K-Member next to our BMR tubular K-Member. We weight both of them with the stock one coming in at 48-1/2 pounds, the BMR only 25-1/2 pounds for a total weight savings of 23 pounds. Not only is it lighter, the tubular design gives us a lot more room to work underneath the car. Before we install the steering rack, we’re going to put the A-arms on. We need to get everything installed loosely before we tighten it up. Use the space to get the rears in place.
Now we’re going to install the steering rack. Now with a little bit of help we’re going to put our K-Member back into the car. You reconnect the steering shack as it goes up into place. I’m only going to put four of the mounting bolts in place for now. We may have to shimmy the K-Member a little bit to get the engine lined up. This might be hard to see in the cars. I’m going to show how the assembly works before we put it together. This top piece here and this pushing with that facing down, this goes on top of the K-Member. The washer, the other piece here, will go underneath the K-Member and sandwich the K-Member between the two bushings.
Then you’ll put your bolt up through the bottom into the factory motor mount bracket and then threat the nut on the top. Once it’s assembled, this will be your factory motor mount bracket here. This will sandwich between the bracket on our K-Member. Once you have the motor mounts done, you can install the rest of the K-Member bolts. Once we get them in place, we’re going to go back through and torque them all to 85 foot pound. You want to make sure your ball joint is sealed all the way up in the spindle. We’re going to reinstall the hardware for that. Tighten up the tie rod ends. Don’t forget to plug back in the electric steering. I’ll put the lock bolt in for our steering arm.
The BMR K-Member doesn’t have provisions for the factory chassis brace so the last of our installation is to reinstall the supply shield. We’re going to zip tight the rear of this in place to our Radiator Support. Reinstall your wheels and your installation is finished.
Because of some of the components we did unbolt for this installation, you want to get an alignment before you take your car on the road and actually drive it. Overall, our BMR K-Member fits great, gives us a lot more room to work and best of all, about 23 pounds off the front of our GT. Installation will take you around three hours. You’ll be back on the road in no time.