BMR Watts Link Assembly with Polyurethane and Spherical Rod Ends for 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013 and 2014 Coupe Mustangs.
If you have any desire to improve the handling of your 2005-2014 Mustang then you need to check out this BMR Watts Link Assembly. Despite having a solid rear axle instead of independent rear suspension, you can still make 2005-2014 Mustangs handle well. This BMR Watts Link Assembly is the perfect way to make this happen.
Features and Benefits:
- 100% bolt-on
- Body mounted
- Durable black hammertone or red powdercoated finish
- Designed for street performance, drag race and road race applications
- Works with stock or BMR sway bar
- 1 x 2-inch rectangular steel tubing
- 1/4-inch laser-cut steel plate
- Heavy-duty zinc-plated, X-series, heat-treated, chrome-moly, self-lubricating, Teflon-lined rod ends
- 95 Durometer internally fluted polyurethane bushings
- Six roll center adjustments
- Fabricated center pivot
- Greasable Delrin center bushing
- Double sheer construction
- Double adjustable links
- Proudly designed in the U.S.A.
*Fits coupes ONLY.
*Does NOT fit 2005-2010 V6 Mustangs Equipped with a 7.5" Rear Axle.
Please Note: Cars that are lowered more than 1.5" in the rear, and/or have "soft" spring rates may need to trim the driver side axle mount bracket.
This Watts Link Assembly (WL005-V) is nearly identical to WL006-V, except that WL006-V has spherical rod ends on both ends of the arms in the assembly. WL005-V has polyurethane bushings on one side of each arm, lessening adjustability and race-prepping capabilities.
A Watts Link locates the rear-end housing and eliminates lateral axle movement by keeping the differential perfectly centered under the car through the suspension’s entire range of motion. Manufactured from heavy-duty 1 x 2-inch, 0.120-inch rectangular steel tubing and 1/4-inch laser-cut steel plate, BMR's Watts Link is extremely durable. The axle mounts are produced from heavy-duty 3/16-inch laser-cut, CNC-formed steel plate. Double sheer link mounts connect the adjustable links to the center pivot. The mounts will provide you with ultimate strength and no deflection whatsoever. Other companies take the easy route, sacrificing strength with single sheer mounts. BMR’s center pivot is fabricated from 1/4-inch laser-cut plate steel with 1 5/8-inch DOM steel tubing. It utilizes a double sheer mount to the cross-member with a greasable Delrin bushing for smooth, bind-free movement. The links are built from heavy-duty aluminum with left and right hand threaded 5/8-inch rod ends for easy on-car adjustability. The Watts Link Assembly features zinc-plated, X-series, heat-treated, chrome-moly, self-lubricating, Teflon-lined rod ends and 95-durometer polyurethane bushings. This assembly also features 304 stainless steel, custom designed rod end spacers.
This is a 100-percent bolt-in assembly and requires no cutting or modifying of the S197 chassis. The Watts Link is adjustable, allowing for fine-tuning and the bind-free suspension articulation needed for optimum handling. The center pivot has the capability to be installed in any of the six positions for multiple roll center locations. The heavy-duty construction of this assembly will withstand the harshest environments of the track or street, while heavily improving the handling abilities of your Mustang.
Order a BMR Watts Link Assembly with Polyurethane and Spherical Rod Ends for your 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013 or 2014 Coupe Mustang from CJ Pony Parts today!
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By doing that, it's going to be beneficial for both drag applications along with straight and road course racing. BMR actually takes it one step further by making the roll center adjustable so you can really dial into your particular application. This unit here is going to fit your 2005 to 2014 Mustang Coupe with an 8.8 inch rear, and today we're going to install it on our 2013 GT500.
The BMR watts link is a 100% bolt-on piece and it's made right here in the USA. We offer 4 versions of this Watts Link. It's available in either a red or a black hammer-tone finish and there's two versions of these arms. This is more of a straight version here, it says polyurethane on one and, the other version is going to have spherical rod ends on both ends and be more for competition or heavy-duty street use.
Like all BMR suspension components, the watts link is very heavy-duty, it'll hold up to whatever you want to throw at it. The roll control center link itself here has a 95-durometer heavy-duty bushing that is fully greasable while the links have urethane bushings that are greasable on one end and Teflon-lined rod ends on the other. The bar itself is going to use a 1 by 2 inch steel with 1/4 inch steel plate on the end. All the hardware necessary for installation is all included by BMR.
For this installation, you're going to need a lift and a pole jack or a jack and jack stands, 1/2 inch ratchet, 9/16 socket, 3/4 socket, 15/16 socket, 15 millimeter socket, 18 millimeter socket, 22 millimeter socket, a couple of extensions, torque wrench, 9/16 wrench, 15 millimeter wrench, 2 3/4 wrenches, a 22 millimeter wrench, an adjustable wrench, an angle finder, straight edge, grease gun, and a hammer.
We begin the installation by removing the factory components. In our case, we actually already have an aftermarket BMR adjustable pan hard bar, and we’re going to remove the factory support as well. If you're worried about weight, the watts link weighs in around 22 pounds. Once you remove these two pieces, you're talking about adding only about 15 pounds on the car. Definitely worthwhile given the performance benefits.
Going to remove the passenger side bolt from the front side. With the pan hard bar out of the way, we can move onto the pan hard support. We'll get the two bolts on the other side. The last step in disassembly, just on the driver's side, we're going to remove the bolts here where the end link connects to our frame. Main part of the watts link now is going to go in place and is going to bolt where all the factory hardware was just removed. What we're going to do is, we're actually going to assemble this on the table to make the installation easier, because if not, you have to bolt things on this side, facing the differential and it gets kind of tight in there.
We're going to start by assembling the pivot to the linkage itself, grab the supplied nuts and bolts. Now we're going to tighten them up. At this point, I probably should have mentioned this earlier, it's a good idea to put all the hardware out on the table, just make sure you have everything you need, and make sure you know where it goes. There's a lot of different sizes of nuts and bolts and washers, make sure you have everything kind of lined out and you have a game plan before you go forward. I mentioned before, the roll center is adjustable on the BMR kit, and this is where you're going to decide where you want your roll center at.
Basically, you can use any one of these holes; the higher up you get, basically what's going to happen is you're going to have a higher steering input like a tighter sway-bar feel on the cost of a little bit of less grip. As you move down, basically it's going to flip and you're going to get more and more grip but your steering's going to change you get towards the bottom. On a typical Mustang, I would say start one of these two holes here, we're going to use the bottom one. That's going to be a nice average between steering input and grip. Going to grab the reinforcement, put the bolts in from the top, put it through the pivot, make sure you have the spacer for the bottom, and 1, 2, 3 holes up. Then you put the two bolts through for the reinforcement. These can be tight, you may need a small hammer them through if they're a little on the tight side.
This assembly's completed, now we're going to move on to installing the axle clamps before we bolt this to our car. About ready to install the axle clamping brackets, they are side specific, this is the driver's side. It's the smaller of the two, you want the longer section pointing down. What you're going to do is basically wrap this around the axle, you get the hardware installed, and slide it as far out to the end as possible. Get it roughly in place and get all the hardware just loose for now. We're going to snug these up and then move it up into place. I'm going to make sure it's pushed all the way to the outside.
Most models are going to have a small cap on this side, our Shelby has a vent because the electronics in the back. What you want to do is just pop this off there before we install the bracket on this side. We'll do the same thing with the clamp, put it on and just install it loosely, and see the cutout here is designed to clear that. Again, make sure it's slid all the way to the outside. Get it relatively straight and then we're going to snug it up. Once it's in place and relatively straight up and down, reinstall the clip, again, make sure there's some play in both of these, we're going to adjust them later. Now we can actually mount the watts link main body.
Now you're going to hang the watts link. You're going to use the factory hardware for the driver's side, supplied hardware for spacers in the passenger. We'll actually show you the passenger side up close once we get it up into place. Definitely want to get a hand for this part because it's a little heavy to hold up yourself and tighten down. Just get everything hand-tight for now. It's going to mount on the outside here, of the original bracket. We're going to put some spacers in there so it doesn't crush when we tighten it down. The thinner bolt goes on top and it's easier to put it in from the back of the, the sleeve can be a little bit of a tight fit. Then we're going to put the bottom bolt in from the front, and put the nuts on them, and we'll go back and tighten everything down.
Now we're going to torque the upper bolt to 85 foot pounds. Now we're going to tighten down the hardware on the driver side. The upper bolt's going to get torqued to 46 foot pound and the last mounting bolt, which is our sway bar bolt gets torqued to 85 foot pounds. With the link actually bolted up and torqued to spec, now we got to work on the axle mounts themselves. You got to make sure these are at a 90 degree angle, so you'll need an angle finder of some sort, I've got a magnetic one here. Put it on there and let it check, and we'll see where we're at, that's why we left these loose. We can make adjustments and then tighten them down.
As you can see, ours is off a little bit so we just want to adjust it. Once we adjust it and get it to a perfect 90 degrees, now you want to go back and actually tighten down the hardware in a criss-cross pattern, starting on the outside. We're going to repeat the process on the driver side. Again, make sure you're at 90 degrees and tighten the bolts down. Before we mount the end links, we're going to actually put some grease in the center pivot here. It's a lot easier to get to before you mount these.
Now we're going to install the outer mounts for our links to our axle mounts. Trick with the links, we want to get them as close to horizontal as possible, but when you do that, first you want to actually put the suspension under load and then we're going to set it up. Once these are bolted on, we'll check to make sure it's centered. We're going to use our pole jack to simulate the suspension loaded. If you have a drive-on lift it'd be even better, or you can put some sort of a jack stand on the axle, whatever you can do to make it seem like it's at ride height. You want that one right there.
What I'm going to do now is just basically mock this up, everything is loose which is perfectly fine for now. Now I'm going to check the other side and see where that one falls. On this side it looks like we're going to have to go pretty much all the way at the top. Everything looks good space-wise, now we can tighten it down. Now that we've mocked it up for fitment, we're going to reinstall the front bolt now with the correct washer. Install the nut on the back. Now we're going to tighten the brackets to the axle clamps and we'll do the same thing on the driver side. Now we're going to tighten down the links to the brackets.
The last thing we want to do, we have everything torqued down, before we check to make sure the rear is centered, we want to go back and make sure you torque these 3 bolts down. We did these on the table so we made them tight, but we don't want to torque them down ‘til they're actually on the car. The middle one's going to be torqued to 80 foot pound, and then 35 foot pound for the two outside bolts.
With the car back on the ground now, you want to measure and see if the rear is straight before we tighten the lock nuts onto our end links. If the rear is not straight, you'll have to adjust the end links to compensate. For example, if this was, say, 1/2 inch out, you would have to take 1/4 inch off of both sides, shorten this side, lengthen that side, to make it actually line up. A couple ways you can do this; you could use a plumb bob], I'm just going to use a straight edge. Put some tape on the fender, we're just going to go straight down, check our clearance with our tire is basically nothing. Maybe a piece of paper would fit between the tire and the straight edge. Now we'll check the other side.
We're going to check on the driver side, again, put it straight up against there. You can see in this case, we're just barely touching the tire. We're almost an immeasurable amount off, I'm going to leave it alone, that's perfectly centered enough. We're going to go back and tighten the end links. We're going to thread the upper and lower lock nuts at the end of the bar to tighten them up and then grab our wrench. With everything adjusted, tightened, and torqued down, last step: put some grease in the end links and your installation's finished.
The BMR watts link is the perfect choice for taking the suspension of your 2005 to 2014 Mustang Coupe to the next level, but keeping the rear perfectly centered regardless of the suspension movement is going to put power to the ground whether you're in a corner or in a straight line. The adjustability of the BMR piece takes that that much further and allows you to really dial it in for your particular application. The installation's a little time consuming, but not terribly difficult, figure about 3 hours. You'll be back on the road in no time.