Borla Stainless Steel S-Type 2-3/4" Cat-Back Exhaust System with 4-1/2" Black Chrome Exhaust Tips for all 2013-2014 GT Mustangs.
Does your 2013-2014 Mustang GT look aggressive? If so, now it's time to make it sound aggressive. Borla's signature "S-Type" Stinger exhaust has one of the best sounds available. The straight through baffled design produces the aggressive muscle car sound every Mustang owner needs!
This kit (P/N 140515BC) includes an X-Pipe and full cat-back with the smoothest bends that will increase your 5.0L's power as much as possible. Full 2-3/4" mandrel bent piping leads to 4-1/2" round, rolled, angle cut, Borla embossed Black Chrome Exhaust tips that exit the rear of the vehicle. Borla's cat-back is manufactured from aircraft-quality 300-series stainless steel and features a straight through baffled design.
Features and Benefits:
- Easy Installation, Bolts Directly to Stock Catalytic Converters
- Full Stainless Steel Construction
- Black Chrome 4-1/2” Angle Cut Rolled Exhaust Tips
- Borla Logo Embossed on each Exhaust Tip
- 2-3/4” Mandrel Bent Piping
- Straight Through Design with No Drone
- Incorporates a Bolt-On X-Pipe
- Reuses Stock Exhaust Hangers and Mounts
- Includes All Necessary Hardware and Instructions for Installation
*This system will also fit the 2013 Boss 302 Mustang, but will require you to remove the factory side pipes.
Manufacturer Part Number: 140515BC
Borla cat-back exhaust systems feature patented, straight-through and multi-core technology to unleash hidden horsepower. Every system is constructed from premium austenitic stainless steel to give you the absolute best performance and durability. Fit and finish is perfect thanks to precision computer-controlled CNC manufacturing. Upgrading to the Borla cat-back increases exhaust velocity to add horsepower, driving excitement fuel economy and the distinctive Borla sound. Ultra-smooth mandrel bends ensure maximum flow and power.
Order the Borla Stainless Steel S-Type 2-3/4" Cat-Back Exhaust System with 4-1/2" Black Chrome Exhaust Tips for your 2013-2014 Mustang GT from CJ Pony Parts today!
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Tony: Well, the catalyst for Rally North America … There’s a lot of car rallies out there. There’s a lot of different events that are out there, but we didn’t feel there was something out there for the common. You have some really high-dollar events out there that are $20, 000 to $30,000.
Bill: Most people can’t afford to do something like that.
Tony: Right. Your average car person, that’s something that’s out of their range. We wanted to put something together that would allow the person that likes to drive their car to be able to participate in a similar type of event.
Bill: How many rallies have you organized so far?
Tony: This is our fifth year. This is our seventh event. We’ve run seven events. Our events run as a scavenger hunt. They’re set up so that each day you’re going to know where you’re going to start and you’re going to know where you’re going to finish, but you’re not going to know the things in-between.
Bill: How many teams normally take part? I’ve been on a few of them myself. How many teams do you usually end up with?
Tony: Pretty much every year. Somewhere between 70 and 80, so we may start out with 75 cars. There’s always a little bit of attrition because we’re dealing with mechanicals. People have problems.
Tony: People have to drop out for one reason or another. Particularly 70 to 80.
Bill: This year’s rally, what is the charity you’re supporting this year?
Tony: The charity we’re working with this year is the Accelerated Care Project for multiple sclerosis. They’re one of the few charities in the country that emphasized looking for a cure for multiple sclerosis. There’s nothing on the support side, but everything’s …
Bill: Based on finding the cure.
Tony: Right. It’s based on enabling researchers out there the tools that they need to go out and find a cure for multiple sclerosis.
Bill: What are we doing to your Boss today? Was is it in here for?
Tony: We’re going to add a boiler system to it, so it’s a cap back system. I’ve got the Ford exhaust with the side pipes on it, which is … Yeah, it’s a nice system, but I actually have an issue with … Because I have a lift in my house. Those side exhausts get in the way of the lift.
Bill: Okay, got you.
Tony: The jack points are right there, and I know one of these days, I’m going to crush one.
Bill: Go with something a little more aggressive, put the boiler system in. It will fit the car a little bit nicer, and it will be easier to just come out.
Tony: I’d rather it be coming out the back than out my side window.
Bill: Sounds great. Let’s take a look at the system we’re going to install.
Tony: Okay, very good.
Bill: For Tony’s Boss, we’re going with Borla’s S-type true Cat-Back system. It includes an X-pipe to replace the factory H-pipe, mandrel bent tailpipes and a set of Borla S-type mufflers with 4.5-inch tips. The entire system is mandrel bent, made of 300-series aircraft quality stainless steel. I’ll give you a before clip of the factory exhaust. It still sounds pretty good on the Boss. Not a bad sound at all. We’re definitely expecting something more aggressive with our Borla.
For this installation, you need a lift or a jack and jack stands, 3/8 ratchet or impact gun, 15 mm deep socket, 13 mm deep socket, 1/4-inch ratchet, 13 mm shallow socket, 8 mm socket, 7 mm socket, 15 mm wrench, mallet, exhaust donut removal tool and safety glasses. The Borla system is going to replace everything basically from here back. The catalytic converter goes into the factory H-pipe. The X-pipe’s going to mount here and replace everything. In the case of our Boss 302, it also has a side pipe which today, we’re just going to be doing away with our Borla installation.
Just like a normal install though, the first step is to loosen up the mufflers and disconnect the tailpipes. To disconnect the tailpipes from our H-pipe, loosen these four nuts right here. Okay, now we’ll loosen up our mufflers. Separate the muffler here. Then you want to smack your rubber mallet just to get everything loosened up. To remove the muffler, you start with the rear hanger. Now we’ll start disconnecting the side pipe. Again, this is only going to be found on the Boss Mustangs. Your standard GT wouldn’t have that. If you do like the side pipes, Borla does make a system that allows you to retain these.
Remove the bracket. Run the side by the rocker to remove the pipe. The last step is to remove the factory H-pipe from the factory catalytic converters. There’s two 13 mm bolts up here you have to loosen. These are going to be a little harder to get to, but if you can get them off disconnect the pipe. Before we begin the installation, Boral provides these protective heat sleeves. You’re going to go over fuel vapor line. You’re going to remove that first and install this before beginning installing the pipes.
Start by removing your taming bolt for the clip. If you follow the vapor line down to the tank, there’s a little plastic clip. Push both sides of the clip, and you can remove the vapor line. You want to carefully remove the factory zip tie. You’re going to push against this plastic tab and pull. I’ll slide the new sleeve on. I’ll reattach the vapor line, and reinstall the clip. For the driver side, the sleeve is going to go right here. We can start by removing this clamp from the filler hose. Slide the sleeve over the rubber side of the hose. Push it pretty far down. Install the clamp, and then reconnect the hose. Slide the sleeve over and clamp right into place, right there.
I’m going to start by the two factory clamps off the H-pipe you removed and put them back in place on the pipes for the catalytic converters. You install the flared extension pieces into the front of the new Borla X-pipe, and loosely place the clamp over it. Put our X-pipe up into place. We’ll lubricate the hanger hold to make it a little easier to get the hangers through. I’m going to grab your clamp from the factory muffler and put your Borla muffler up into place. I’m just going to protect the tip while it I make some adjustments.
Slide the factory band clamp over the X-pipe, and put our tailpipe up into place. You can put the nuts back on the factory clamp. Again, loosely at this point. You don’t want to tighten everything down until we’re finished. Make sure the tailpipe is situated properly in the clamp for the muffler. Put the factory clamp in place, and then tighten it down. Now we can tighten up the front clamp. Now tighten up the factory band clamp. Repeat the process on the other side. You want to adjust the tips to get them where you want them. You can actually loosen the muffler from the tailpipe. That will let it twist a little bit. If you need more, you can actually loosen up the tailpipe next to your X-pipe. That will give you full movement, get them lined up where you want them on your bumper.
Now let’s see how our boiler S-type sounds. It definitely sounds good. There’s a lot more aggressive sound in the stock system. The Borla S-types sound great and give the Boss a nice aggressive tone to go with the aggressive looks. Tony, you should be all set for the CJ Pony Parts Rally US-50 this summer.
Tony: Outstanding, thanks Bill. If anyone’s interested in coming along with us, we do have spots available. There’s about four or five spots at this time. If you’re interested, we’ve got four racetracks lined up. All our checkpoints are either going to be scenic or historic. If you like to drive your car, and you want something that you’re going to remember pretty much for the rest of your life, go to RallyNorthAmerica.com or our Facebook page, which is Rally North America.
Bill: Installation on the system should take you less than two hours, so you’ll be back on the road in no time.