Borla S-Type Stinger 2-1/2" Stainless Steel Cat-Back Exhaust System for 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003 and 2004 GT Mustangs.
Upgrade the sound of your 1999-2004 Mustang with Borla's signature "S-Type" Stinger exhaust system which deliver a very aggressive sound. The straight through baffled designed mufflers produces the aggressive sound everyone loves. The 2-1/2" exhaust pipe leads into a bullet design muffler then ends with a round 4" rolled, angle cut, Borla embossed tips that exit the rear of your Mustang.
- Angle Cut Rolled Tips
- Borla Embossed Tips
- Mandrel Bent Tubing
- T-304 Stainless Steel
- Polished Tips
- 2.50" Flow Tubes
- 4" Exhaust Tips
- Bullet Design Mufflers
- All Necessary Hardware
Borla's cat-back is manufactured from aircraft-quality T-304 stainless steel and features a straight through baffled design. This cat-back exhaust system is constructed from premium austenitic stainless steel to give you the absolute best performance and durability on the market. The fit and finish is perfect thanks to precision computer-controlled CNC manufacturing. Ultra-smooth mandrel bends ensure maximum flow and power.
Borla Performance Industries is a pioneer and leader in the design and manufacture of stainless steel exhausts, with over three decades of experience. Today, Borla holds five US patents for innovative, revolutionary exhaust technology and Borla has expanded to occupy two facilities. CJ Pony Parts offers Borla products for many Mustangs, offering these owners the chance to get one of the best exhausts on the market.
Order your Borla S-Type Stinger 2-1/2" Stainless Steel Cat-Back Exhaust System for 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003 and 2004 GT Mustangs from CJ Pony Parts today!
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This Borla S-Type Stinger Cat Back's going to fit your 1999 through 2004 Mustang GT or your 2003 through 2004 Mustang Mach 1. It's made completely of T304 stainless steel and features mandrel bent two and a half inch piping going through the Stinger mufflers and adding a set of Borla's four inch polished stainless steel tips. The kit does include necessary clamps for installation and we'll reuse some factory hardware.
For this installation you'll need a lift or a jack and jack stands, three-eighth ratchet, nine-sixteenth socket, fifteen millimeter socket, half inch wrench, nine-sixteenth wrench, exhaust hanger removal tool, small hammer, sawzall, and safety glasses.
The first step to removing the existing exhaust is going to be a two-step process, and it's going to vary depending whether it's an original exhaust or an aftermarket. Given this car’s age, many of them are going to have an aftermarket exhaust already on them. The first step, regardless, is disconnect the front pipes from our H pipe. The second step is remove the tail pipes. If it's an original system or a welded aftermarket system, you'll have to cut. Some aftermarket systems will have bolt-on things. More than likely, you'll end up cutting back here and you'd disconnect and unbolt up there. In our case, we're going to cut first. Before we did that we sprayed some penetrate lubricant on the nuts and bolts up here. As you can see, one's broken already. There's a good possibility you might break these studs taking the exhaust system apart. It's a good idea to either have a spare set of studs or easier to go out and buy some nuts and bolts. That way you can connect the new pipe to the older pipe and get rid of the studs, making it a lot easier and a lot cleaner. The easiest place to cut the tail pipe's going to be right here behind the muffler. We're going to slide it forward off the lead hanger and remove.
Now we're working on the bolts that hold the mid-pipes to our H pipe. Don't be surprised if these do break. Sometimes you get lucky and a lot of times they will snap. Like I said earlier, some of these bolts might be really hard to get off. If they are, sometimes the easiest thing to do is simply get a saw, just cut it in the middle, take the nuts and bolts off ... The factory studs I mean, and put nuts and bolts on to hold the new exhaust in place. Now the hardware will either cut or remove ... Remove the mufflers and the rear pipes. They may need a little bit of encouragement to come off. There's going to be two hangers back here you have to remove.
Then we'll grab the muffler and the tail pipe assembly. They are labeled left and right. Make sure you grab the correct one. Start by putting it up over the rear axle, and work it into the factory rear hangers. Now, we're going to take a clamp and put it over the tail pipe we just installed. Grab one of the front flange assemblies, which are not side-specific, and put that up into place. You'll see we installed some new hardware on our original pipe. Okay, you can leave that loose for now and repeat the process on the other side.
Now you can grab the tail pipe extension with the tip. Again, they are side-specific. You should put the clamp on first. Put it up into the rear hanger. Then repeat the process on the other side. Then you can put the clamps up in place and tighten everything down. I'll move up front, we're going to tighten the clamps here for the factory pipe and our Borla. Make sure you tighten evenly so you don't get a leak. With those tight, now we can tighten up the clamps. Double check your final adjustment and your installation's finished.
The Borla S-Type Stinger looks great. Fitment was spot-on as usual. Now let's see how it sounds. I've heard this style muffler before with different set-ups. It's a lot deeper than I thought it would be. It's got a really nice deep, rich tone.
Out on the road, the Borla S-Type Stinger's have a much deeper tone than I expected them to be. I guess I'm used to this muffler in a rear mount behind the axle kind of setup. Moving them forward like you would on the SN95 or Fox Body cars really deepens the tone of the muffler. It's got a nice aggressive tone to it when you get on it, but it's got a nice deep sound to it too. Of course typical of all Borla, you put it on the highway and your cruising, you barely hear it. You're not getting any kind of a drone, any kind of a negative sound. Give it some gas, you can hear it's back there but no drone whatsoever. Something we're really coming to expect with Borla's exhaust systems.
Going through the gears it's got, again, that deep tone when you first get on. As you climb higher up the RPMs, you do get a little more of that aggressive ... I'm going to call it rasp because it really is, but more of that aggressive kind of tone you'll hear from other Borla's. At cruising speeds, yeah, nice and clean, deep sound. Really cool sound.
Here we are at highway speeds, right around two thousand RPM, the dreaded drone zone for a lot of mufflers. Like I said, nothing. Don't even hear that they're back there. You can easily cruise down the highway, have a conversation, with no problems at all.
You really can't go wrong with the Borla exhaust system. I'm running Borla's on my 2015 Mustang and as you can see, they look great and fit great on the older models as well. They have a nice aggressive sound. Installation, as far as that goes, probably figure an hour and a half to two hours tops. You'll be back on the road in no time.