Set of Four CJ Pony Parts Lowering Springs for all 2015, 2016 and 2017 Mustangs.
CJ Pony Parts is here to help you get that "raked" look for your 2015-2017 Mustang with these lowering springs made specifically for us by a leading suspension manufacturer. These lowering springs were designed to give you an aggressive drop in the front and a moderate change in ride height in the rear. With a progressive front spring rate of 182-217 lbs/in and a linear rear spring rate of 799 lbs/in, you will easily maintain ride comfort but significantly increase overall handling and performance.
Some of the most iconic Mustang’s known today all have one thing in common, and it’s that traditional muscle car stance. Not only does having the front end a little lower than the rear look great, but inherently has its benefits. Whether you’re on the street or the track, this setup can drastically help with weight transfer. With the end result being better traction and stability at speed.
- (2) Front Lowering Springs
- (2) Rear Lowering Springs
- (2) Front Bump Stops
- (2) Rear Bump Stops
- (2) Front Dust Boots
Features and Benefits:
- Ultra-High Performance and Fierce Appearance
- Excellent Ride Quality
- Corner Faster, Stop Quicker and Handle More Precisely
- Improved Aerodynamic Efficiency
- Aggressive, Progressive Spring Design
- Drastically Lower Center of Gravity
- Virtually Eliminates Nose-Dive When Braking
- Reduces Squat During Acceleration
- Reduces Body Roll While Cornering
- 1.5" Front and 1.0" Rear Drop for GT Fastback Mustang
- 1.0" Front and 1.0" Rear Drop for Ecoboost Fastback Mustang
- 1.6" Front and 1.1" Rear Drop for GT Convertible Mustang
You've known CJ Pony Parts for decades as the leading aftermarket Mustang parts supplier in the world. However, did you know that we make some of our own parts, too? CJ Pony Parts can help you build and style your Mustang, or you can style yourself with some of CJ's other great products.
Order this set of four CJ Pony Parts Lowering Springs for your 2015, 2016 or 2017 Mustang from CJ Pony Parts today!
Product ReviewsWrite a review
Hi all. I'm debating whether to get these springs because of my current setup. 275/35/20 and 315/35/20. I've seen a couple people run these springs but not sure if they have any camber plates/spacers. Really concerned that I'll rub in the rear. thanks!
will this fit my 2016 Mustang V6?
Hello, is it necessary to replace the factory camber plates? is it necessary to apply spacers? or anything else? for 2015 gt
Can i use for my mustang v6 2016 ?
I have an European spec Ecoboost Convertilble with 19" stock wheels plus 25mm spacers and thinking about this spring set. You in an answer that one should measure to ensure there is enough clearance. Could you please explain how I actually do that?
Considering for Australian mustang gt. These springs still fit with 20" rims?
With the cj springs whats the exact drop on the 2015 mustang v6?
We forgot to replace the rear bump stops with the supplied ones. Will this affect anything? Will it affect the ride height? Thanks
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If you look at a 2015 Mustang, the rear wheel wells actually sit closer to the ground than the front do from the factory. We've always felt that that styling would make this car look a lot better with a set of rake springs. What I mean by "rake," is actually the front more than the back to give it a nice custom look. We decided to team up with a well-known spring manufacturer to produce these CJ Pony Parts springs that are going to lower the front end of your Mustang 1.5" and lower the rear 1" for that custom rake look. Today, we're going to show you how to install a set using our 2015 Mustang GT.
These CJ Pony Parts springs are sold as a set of 4 and include dust boots for the front struts as well as a complete set of new bump stops for the front and rear. Like I said, they're going to lower the front of your GT Mustang by 1.5" and lower the back by 1". They also can be used on a EcoBoost, but you're going to get a 1" drop all the way around when using them on that model.
For this installation you will need, either a lift and a pole jack or a jack and jack stands, 1/2" ratchet, 13mm socket, 15mm socket, 18mm socket, 3/4 socket, 13/16ths socket, 15/16th deep socket, 21mm socket, short extension, 15mm wrench, 17mm wrench, 1/2" impact gun, panel removal tool, hammer, and a spring compressor.
The first step of the installation of installing the CJ Pony Parts spring is going to be get the car up off the ground and remove all 4 wheels.
With the wheel off, we're going to begin the installation by disconnecting the sway bar from the strut. To do that, you want to put a wrench on the back side to hold the sway bar, and then remove the nut.
With the sway bar out of the way, we're going to move on to disconnecting the caliper. To get that off the bracket, there's 2, 15mm bolts. There's 1 right here and 1 down here. Remove them, remove the caliper from the bracket, and set it aside. Remove the 2 ABS lines, as well, one from the strut mount here and one from the side of the strut down here.
To separate the spindle from the strut, these nuts and bolts have to be removed. We're going to start by taking the nuts off. You only want to take them all the way off just to the edge. I'll explain why in a minute. Thread it on just to the edge of the bolt. The reason for leaving the nut is, you have to actually hammer these bolts out since they're pressed on. If you don't have the nut there, you could mushroom the end of the bolt and not be able to get it back on. Leaving the nut gives you a better surface to hit and also doesn't damage the threads. Usually at this point, you can get them through by hand. Separate the strut from the spindle.
Now we're going to move up to the engine bay. The strut is held to the strut tower by these 3 nuts. What you want to do is remove the first 2. When you go to remove the last 1, make sure you're holding on to the strut or it'll fall off.
Now that we have the strut assembly on the table, we have to remove the spring. To do that, you want to compress the spring first, before removing the nut on the top of the strut. Now we can remove the strut nut. Now we'll decompress the spring.
Before we re-install the spring, there's a couple changes that we have to make. You want to remove the dust boot and also remove the factory bump stop, you got to replace with a lower one. While we're installing the springs, we're going to upgrade from the factory mounts to these caster camber plates from Maximum Motorsports. These are a much better mount than the factory and also will allow us to dial in our camber to make our alignment even better.
The Maximum Motorsports caster camber plate is going to replace the top of the strut mount, so we want to separate these 2 pieces. Put that aside and you want to keep the rubber insulator. You want to make sure this edge is parallel with that line there. The stud plates are actually universal, but this plate is specific. Make sure when it sits with the studs that these two lines are parallel. Just rest it until it seats on there and moves cleanly. Now we can reassemble the strut. We're going to put our new spring into the compressor. Put the strut assembly back through. Make sure the spring is seated properly, and decompress the spring. Our assembly is ready to re-install in the car.
When re-installing the spring assembly into the car, you want to make sure that this ear here is facing outward, will go out towards the fender. This flap over here faces toward the front. Put this up into place, use one of the supplied bolts and washers to hold it in. I'm holding the strut up through there. Install the supplied top plate. Again, hand tighten the nuts and washers. Now, we reconnect the strut to the spindle. When we tighten these nuts, it'll actually pull the bolts through, just give them a little tap to get them started.
With those bolts tight, now we can re-install the rotor and caliper. We'll thread one lug-nut on, just to hold the rotor in place, makes it a lot easier to line up the caliper. Going to reconnect the ABS line next. Re-install the sway bar end link. Now up here in the tower, we're going to tighten down these 3 bolts, then torque them to 46 foot pound. Repeat the process on the other side and move on to your rear suspension.
We'll start the installation in the back by first popping the ABS line off the bracket to give us some more room and we're going to remove this bolt here to disconnect the brake line, again, to give us some more room to work. With that out of the way, remove the 2 bolts that hold the shock to the body. Take this little cap up here and rock it back and forth to pop it off, and we can access the nut we need to remove to get off the shock bracket. Remove the nut and the bracket.
For the rear installation, the bump stop is again, located inside this dust boot. Unlike the front, the rear dust boot does get reused, but this gets replaced inside. To get this off, you basically just want to force it over. There is a little lip on the edge here, so it can get stuck. Just be careful and force it up over it. Once you have it off, just separate the factory bump stop from the boot by pushing it down inside. You can see the height difference between the factory bump stop and the aftermarket one for our lowering springs. Put this into place and re-install on the shock.
To get this spring out, we're going to lower sub frame down side at a time. The first thing you want to do is support the sub-frame, and then we're going to remove the bolts to lower it down. We'll start by loosening these 2 front bolts. You don't have to take them all the way out, just get them most of the way so they stay in place and hold the bracket. Now we're going to remove the 2 sub-frame bolts. Now we're going to lower down the sub-frame so we can remove the spring. Basically, you want to lower it until there's no more tension on the jack. Let's pull down the suspension.
We're going to install the new CJ spring the same way. Make sure our logo is facing upward, install the insulator on the top, just like factory, and put it into place. Make sure the bottom's in the bucket as it's supposed to be, and you can push it on. Jack the sub-frame back up. Put both sub-frame bolts back in. Just get them started by hand before you hit them with the gun. Tighten down the 2 front bolts and tighten down the sub-frame bolts, and then let down the jack.
With the spring installed, we can re-install the mount to the shock. Put the cap back on. Reinstall the shock to the body. The last step, then, re-install the ABS line and the actual brake hose. Repeat the process on the other side and your installation is finished.
I'm really digging the look of the CJ Pony Parts springs on our 2015 GT. The lower look screams, "modern," but yet the rake screams, "muscle car." Best of all, with our Maximum Motorsports caster and camber plates, we get our alignment dialed in perfectly. Installation is like a typical spring, take you around 2 hours. You'll be back on the road in no time. For more installation videos for your 2015 Mustang, make sure you subscribe to our YouTube channel and check out CJPonyParts.com for the best selection of 2015 Mustang parts.