Classic Auto Air Perfect Fit Elite Air Conditioning System With Uncoated Compressor R-134A 1965-1966

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Classic Auto Air Perfect Fit Elite Air Conditioning System With Uncoated Compressor R-134A 1965-1966
Classic Auto Air Perfect Fit Elite Air Conditioning System With Uncoated Compressor R-134A 1965-1966 Classic Auto Air Perfect Fit Elite Air Conditioning System With Uncoated Compressor R-134A 1965-1966 Classic Auto Air Perfect Fit Elite Air Conditioning System With Uncoated Compressor R-134A 1965-1966 Play Classic Auto Air Perfect Fit Elite Air Conditioning System With Uncoated Compressor R-134A 1965-1966 Video 1
Classic Auto Air

Product Description

Classic Auto Air R-134A Perfect Fit Elite Air Conditioning System with an Uncoated Compressor for all 1965-1966 Mustangs.

If you are looking to upgrade the A/C system in your 1965-1966 Mustang, but don't want to take any risk in losing your original factory look, you've found the right spot. Classic Auto Air's R-134A Perfect Fit Elite Air Conditioning System with an Uncoated Compressor is a simple and easy way to keep your car looking vintage, with a more modern performance.

Classic Auto Air's system is specifically designed to convert your 1965-1966 Mustang to full climate control easily and professionally. All of the work is done for you as this kit contains everything you'll need to get a significant improvement in performance & reliability, while still maintaining that original factory look.

Included Components:
- All Interior Components
- Evaporator Assembly
- Condenser Kit Including Pre-Engineered Condenser Mounting
- Pre-Crimped Refrigeration Hoses
- Sanden-Style Compressor with Uncoated Finish
- Hi-Low Refrigerant Pressure Switch
- Aluminum Hookup Tubes
- Compressor Mounting Hardware
- Installation Instructions & Mounting Templates

When your purchase this system, you'll receive a kit with products that are either specifically designed or carefully chosen to be fitting into your 1965-1966 Mustang. Classic Auto Air's evaporators are designed to maximize airflow using their exclusive DirectPass technology. This results in you having a larger volume of unobstructed airflow. All of the coils that you'll receive are made from high-quality copper, which is your best prevention for any leaks due to corrosion down the line. These coils are also the largest in the industry, which makes for faster and more thorough heat transfer & faster cool-downs. The A/C and heat coils are separate, just like in your original Pony.

When you purchase this system, you'll also get pre-crimped refrigerant hoses so you can simply connect your supplied o-rings to these hoses and charge with the refrigerant. You'll also receive custom-made state of the art parallel flow 'micro-tube' condensers. The design of these condensers is similar to that of modern vehicles to reduce head pressures and the ability to transfer heat more efficiently. Classic Auto Air supplies pre-bend, high-quality aluminum condenser lines that will give a factory appearance, as well as speed up installation.

You'll also receive evaporator cases that are fully insulated, a simple innovation that has become a key factor in their performance in both heating & cooling your classic Mustang. This specific system also includes a sanden-style compressor with an uncoated finish. Classic Auto Air makes sure to utilize the most current and up to date electrical programming on the market. The programming with this system will never be obsolete, as when new advances are updated, you'll receive them. And with the EZ Wire Color Coding System, this process is much easier along with a simple installation.

The 1965-1966 Mustang Perfect Fit Elite air conditioning system is designed specifically to bolt into your classic Mustang with minimal modification to your vehicle. Each kit comes with detailed, easy-to-follow installation instructions and mounting template, so you can install it all yourself and get it done right.

Please note: Classic Auto Air's Air Conditioning Systems are custom made to your specific application and are not returnable. Please allow 3-5 weeks for delivery.

*Requires the use of R-134A air conditioning refrigerant.

When you purchase a Classic Auto Air system, you are getting almost 40 years of real world, high-tech, cooling technology. Check out the wide arrange of Classic Auto Air products that are offered from CJ Pony Parts.

Purchase Classic Auto Air's R-134A Perfect Fit Elite Air Conditioning System with an Uncoated Compressor for your 1965-1966 Mustang from CJ Pony Parts today!

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Classic Auto Air Perfect Fit Elite Air Conditioning System With Uncoated Compressor R-134A 1965-1966 Video Transcript
By Bill Tumas: We do a lot of videos showing you how to do modifications to your classic Mustang that'll make that car a lot more fun to drive. Some examples are five-speed transmission, modern suspension, better engines, and even better seating surfaces. Right now in Pennsylvania, it's over 100 degrees. While this classic Mustang's a lot of fun to drive with the top down, adding an air conditioning system would definitely take it to the next level. Today, we're going to show you how to install Classic Auto Air's Perfect Fit Elite air conditioning system using this '66 Mustang Convertible.

The Classic Auto Air Perfect Fit Elite system is the perfect choice if you're looking to add modern climate control to your first-generation Mustang, and want to keep an original feel but not necessarily want to keep a 100% vintage original look. The heart of this system's going to be this complete box here, which is going to have your heating and your air conditioning controls. Classic Auto Air gives you everything you need to convert your classic Mustang into a modern climate-controlled system.

This complete assembly is going to mount in place of your factory heater box on your '65 through '66 Mustang, and add everything necessary for heat and air conditioning control. While it looks and it's going to fit like an original box, it's all modern electronics and has an electronic control that'll work with your factory controls on your dash. Keeps the original look, but gives you modern climate control.

The system we'll use is an original style looking Sanden compressor, which is going to work off 134a, which is modern AC you're going to want to use in this car. Gives you everything necessary to install it. All the brackets are included, even the correct style crank pulley that'll work with an AC system. The condenser, all the lines, and again, everything needed to convert your car over is included, with the exception of refrigerant. These are the vents included in the Perfect Fit Elite system. They're going to be more of a generic style vent. They don't look like the original vents under the dash, but they're going to be a lot cleaner looking and do a much better job at dispersing air among the interior.

Classic Auto Air builds the Perfect Fit Elite air conditioning system specifically for your vehicle, so there's a bunch of questions you're going to have to answer before you actually can order this system. You want to know what year the car is, what year the engine is, how many crank bolts you have, how many grooves you have on your crank pulley, what the size of your water pump is, and if the car was or was not a factory AC car. All these things you'll want to answer and know that before you order the system. Follow along, and we'll show you how to install it.

We're not going to do our typical tool list for this installation video, because to be honest, you need a lot of tools for this install. The good news is they're all basic hand tools that any competent weekend mechanic should already have in their box at home. The only specialty tool you're going to need for the installation is going to be an inch and 3/8 drill bit.

To start the installation, you have to remove the original heater box. We're going to start off in the interior by taking off the glove box door and the glove box to give us more room, and move to the engine bay and disconnect some pieces in there.

Now we're going to move on to the heater control cables. In the case of ours, there's three of them. The one here under defrost was already broken off the box, we don’t need to remove. There are two more inside where the glove box was. There are two located here and then further back. And while we’re here, we’ll remove the harnesses for the resistor switch. You pop them off. Then we move to the engine bay.

First thing we're going to do under the hood is disconnect the wires going to our heater motor. If you don't have quick-connects on them, just simply cut them. Going to remove these four nuts that hold this to the firewall. Before we cut the heater hoses off, I'm going to drain all of the coolant from the radiator. With the coolant drained, now you can cut both heater hoses about an inch out from the firewall.

Now you're going to remove the rest of the mounting hardware to remove our heater box. With the heater box out of the car, now we're going to remove the control plate. First, remove your ashtray. Gives you a little more room to get up in there. There’s going to be two nuts and two retaining clips that hold this in place. To get the top bolt out, we're going to move the base of the retainer here before the ashtray itself. This will give us more room to get up in there. It's a tight space.

With the original assembly on the table, we can remove the parts we're not going to need. The cables can go away, as well as the blower switch itself. On the switch itself, just remove with a small little Allen here, get the knob off the front, and remove this bolt here. Now we can start assembling our new control unit. Grab the original piece here and the screw we just removed, grab the bracket that's included, and put that into place. Don't tighten it all the way. Make sure you have a little bit of movement to adjust. Now we'll take one of the supplied screws, and from the inside out, put a second piece of hardware onto this new bracket. Now we can tighten both down. Slide the blower switch into place and install it to the bracket with the supplied hardware.

Now we're going to hook up the Classic Auto Air easy integrators to our original controls to make it work with our new style system. We've got two versions. One says "mode," and one says "temperature control." On the back of the factory controls, mode's going to go on the top one here, the first controller. Temp is going to go on the third one. The middle one does not get used. What you’re going to do is start by putting the tip of it through here. We're going to fold it back and line it up with this. Grab one of the supplied clips, slide it over this edge here. Line it up, and reinstall the original hardware.

Next, we're going to install the block-off plate for the fresh air vent in our cowl. What you’re going to do is basically put it up into place and use the three screws provided to screw up into it to hold it in. Then while you're here, grab the supplied J clip, put it over this factory mounting bracket. That'll hold the box in later.

We're just about ready to install our new heat and air conditioning box into our '66 Mustang. Before you do so, though, is a very important step. The entire system has to be calibrated before you install it. What you want to do is get a 12-volt source, and everything can be done on the bench. You want to grab the three orange, blue, and yellow color-coded wiring and harnesses. Two of them will go on the box here, again color coded yellow and blue. The third orange one will go on the water valve. Then plug them into the corresponding ports on our control. Everything is color coded, making it nice and easy.

Now we're grabbing the main wiring harness. The small plug here is going to go to the control box to power. The middle one's going to go to our motor itself. This one here is going to go to the fan switch. The two blue leads are going to go to our thermostat, right here next to the motor. Connect our red to power, and everything else to ground. We'll install the calibration key in the controls, and then connect power. Make sure you have everything plugged into the correct corresponding color. Now we're ready to calibrate.

You want to start with the mode all the way down, temperature control all the way up, and the fan on off. We're going to move to high. The calibrator key's lighting up as it should. As you can hear, obviously the motor is working. Now move the mode up one motion. Again, check the calibration key to make sure it lights up. Next, we're going to move the temp knob all the way down. The calibration key lit up again, so we're good. Now move the fan switch to off, and we're going to remove the calibration key.

Now we'll test everything. We'll turn the fan back on. You have this on dash vents, so it's going to be coming out of here, not from out of there. We're good there. Move it to defrost. Now it's coming out of the defrost vents, which is correct. Floor. Now it's coming out of the floor vents. Everything's good. Now we'll check the temperature. Basically, on hot, you should be able to see through the water valve. When I move to cold, it should close up. You can see through it. Close up. Okay, we're good.

We're going to take the tip of the back of the instructions, line up the hole with the factory heater motor hole, which is even with the floor pan, and mark our holes we have to punch out. Now we'll start by drilling a pilot hole, and going to open it up to 5/8. There is a brake line on the other side of this. Make sure it's clear before you drill.

Now we're ready to put the box into place. You will need help for this part. We're going to have somebody in the engine bay to put a bolt on and hold it in place once you get it in there. What I'm going to do is lay it flat down here, roll it up in.

Now on the inside, connect the motor to the J clip we installed earlier. Once we get the vertical screw in place, you can move onto the auxiliary bracket. This bracket's going to connect the box to the cowl area itself, you won't have to drill into the cowl area. The box is pre-drilled.

With the box mounted on, now we can install the control. You want to fish all the wires through first and then be very careful of these two pieces when you put them in that you don't damage them. You can reinstall the factory hardware to hold it in place. With everything in place, we can start the wiring now. We're going to take the orange harnesses, which comes out to the engine bay, and fish it through one of the original openings for the heater hoses. The other end hanging out here for the water valve which we’ll connect later Now we'll move back under the dash to plug everything back in.

Now what you’ll want to do is find a good spot to mount the relay, control box, and all then your grounds, and then finally find a the 12-volt power source. Connect everything to our controller. You're going to mount the controller wherever you can easily put it that everything will reach. Classic Auto Air does provide screws, but with the way everything seems to fit with our car, double stick tape will work perfectly.

Now we're going to install the firewall block-off plate. What you want to do is make some small X cuts in each of these openings here so the pipes can fit through without damaging them. Then screw them into the firewall. Next, we're going to install grommets on the firewall where the factory heater hose openings went into our interior. Make sure you cut a hole in one for the wiring harness for the water valve. Now we'll install the drain tube through the hole we drilled earlier onto the refractive drain on the air conditioning.

Now we're going to move on to the heater hose fittings. The lower connection on the heater hose here is going to go to the original hose that goes up to the intake. Now we'll take the other factory hose. Go approximately six inches down and cut the hose. On the water valve, it's very important you make the correct connections, or your AC system is not going to work. This side, very carefully labeled, goes to the water pump. The other side is going to go into our box.

Now we're going to move on to running the interior duct work. We're going to start by doing the defroster. You actually can get it from under the dash, but we're going to pop the grill to make it a little bit easier, plus make it easier for you to see. With the clips included that are included, the Classic Auto Air will work with the original defroster ducts, the problem is these are paper, and over time, they tend to get dried out. If you're doing this installation, I suggest picking up a set of new ducts from Scott Drake. The ducts already have clips on them, so I'm going to line them up, slide them in, lock them into place. They're ready to install back in our car. I'll put our new ducts into place.

Now we can move on to mounting the actual AC ducts themselves. These are going to go underneath your dashboard. You pretty much put them wherever you want. There's no specific place, but you want to put two on the outside area and then another two in the center. You get a more even dispersion of cold air. Installing the tubes between the vents and the ducts can be very hard to see and can be very frustrating under the car. The trick to it, you follow the edge of the metal ring in here. You want to put that edge up first, and then work it around, pulling up on the vent. That's going to be the easiest way to get it onto the vents and on the ductwork. Just work your way around and follow the ring, and it'll work its way on. Once you get them seated, wrap a zip tie to keep it in place. You'll want to repeat the process then with the other three vents.

Once the ducts and vents are connected, you're pretty much finished with the interior. You'll want to install the glove box provided by Classic Auto Air. The factory one is going to be too deep and won't clear the vents. Once it's installed, pretty much put your interior back together, hide the wires as best as possible, and move under the hood. Our first step under the hood is going to be to mount our new condenser. The condenser's going to mount where the factory one would, which is right in this area here. To get there, we're going to start by removing the support, the grill, and the horn.

With everything out of the way for the condenser, before we actually mount that, now we're going to move inside the engine bay. We're going to remove our fan, our belt, and our factory crank pulley, replace with the correct parts, and then mount our compressor. We're going to loosen those and loosen up the alternator. Now we're going to install our new crank pulley. Depending on your application and what other options you have on the car, you may want to remove the fan and the shroud to give yourself a little more room to get in here.

Now with the crank pulley mounted, we can move on to mounting the actual AC compressor. In our case, this is going to be in the way, so the first thing we're going to do is remove our coil. We're going to put out of the way, mount the compressor, and then we'll find a new place to mount the coil. The front plate's going to mount pretty much right here. The first thing we're going to do is remove these three water pump bolts and replace them with new hardware that's going to support our plate. You want to make sure you have the proper spacers here. Power steering, manual steering, there will be some differences in which ones get used, so make sure you have the correct sizes.

With the rear bracket, you should be able to just put the first bolt on. Before you put the other ones on, go and put one of the mounting bolts on for the AC compressor. It comes in from the back, and once you have this tight, there's no way to get it out. We're going to put that on first to make it a lot easier later. Now we can mount the compressor. With the compressor mounted, now we're going to mount the eccentric for our idler pulley. Now the idler pulley itself, you're going to put the pulley bushing in the center first. The bolt will go through. Spacers are going to go on the back, and thread them to the eccentric.

Now we're ready to prep the condenser for installation. What we're going to do is install the dryer to it. What we want to do is figure out where the dryer's going to fit. The dryer tube will go where it's supposed to, and then we're going to bolt it on from the back side of the condenser. Before you make the connection between the hose and the dryer, you want to put the O-ring on. Put a little mineral oil on, as well. Same thing down here. Some mineral oil on the end here. Now remove the red thing at the bottom, and we're going to install the pressure switch. Pressure switch already has an O-ring installed on it, so it's ready to go.

With the switch installed, we're also going to install the pressure switch harness. Now we're going to install the mounting brackets on the condenser before it goes on the car. What you want to do is mark the sixth, seventh, 11th, and 12th holes from the left. That's where the bracket's going to go, so the bracket is bent towards you when you install it. The lower is going to be the sixth, seventh, 13th, and 14th holes we're going to use for the bracket.

Before we can mount the condenser, we have to drill a couple holes. If you have an original radiator support, this part's going to be a lot easier. There's an indentation here and another one here for the holes we're going to drill, because this was designed for AC from the factory. If you have an after-market one, you'll just have to measure off these two holes before you drill. I'm going to start with the pilot hole. Make sure everything's clear behind you, there's no wire harnesses back there. Once our holes are drilled, you want to grab a file, work your way around the edges, and de-burr them, since we will have hoses going through these.

Now that we've drilled our two holes, we can actually mount the condenser. There's two wires you're going to have to fish inside the car, inside the engine bay, anyway. These are going to come from the pressure switch to turn the AC on. One's going to go to the compressor itself. The other wire's going to get fished to the interior and go to the relay we mounted underneath the dashboard. The actual condenser itself is going to mount using factory hardware, the two bolts here for the upper latch and one down here for the support. It lines up just like that, and you can reinstall your latch support.

With the condenser mounted, we can start running our lines. We're going to start with the main line that's going to come from our firewall up to our dryer. Let's just lay that in the engine bay, and we're going to fish it through. Just like all fittings, install a little bit of oil and an O-ring. Now we connect the line from our condenser to our compressor. Make sure you don't forget the O-rings. They're going to be very important for the AC to work properly and not leak.

Make our connection at the compressor. Now we’ll connect the other line to the compressor at the firewall, this will be the largest line. Now you're going to fish the hose back around the air cleaner. Keep it as low as possible. Going to make the connection over at the firewall. Now the last line will go from the compressor over to the firewall again. Once you have all those hoses run and connected, you want to make sure they're not getting in the way of anything. You don't want to get stuck on your throttle or anything like that.

With all the lines connected, now we're going to connect the pressure switch. What we're going to do is cut one side of the white wire here. Install the included connector, and plug it in. What you're going to do is take the wire we just cut we didn't use and the included butt connector, and push these together to extend over to the firewall. You should have enough left over. If you don't, just grab some normal wire, extend it that way. Now we'll connect the other end of the pressure switch wire to the white power source, off the relay under the dash.

Since we grounded everything earlier, the last connection to make underneath the dash is going to be the actual 12-volt power. You want to go up to a 12-volt switch source. What I recommend doing is taking the original wire from your blower switch. We extended that down, and we used that to connect it. Once you connect this for your 12-volt power, you want to go to the fuse box, remove the 14-amp fuse that's installed for the blower switch and replace it with a 20-amp. Back under the hood, you're going to want to turn the compressor by hand about 15 to 20 revolutions before you put the belt on. Actually, once we get it charged, you'll want to do the same thing, turn it by hand before you run it. That'll make sure it breaks in properly.

We're coming down to the homestretch on the installation. It's time to install the belts on our engine. Our original alternator belt is going to work fine. As far as the AC compressor belt goes, Classic Auto Air is going to recommend a 51-inch belt. We've actually found that a 49 and a half to 50 inch usually fits a little bit better. If you're not sure, you can measure before you order the belt, because it's not included with the kit. Just put everything on loosely at first, and then we'll tighten it up. You want to loosen up your idler here. That's going to be your adjustment for the belt. This is a 49 and a half. As you can see, it fits fine. Now we'll put some tension on the belt, tighten everything down.

At this point, you want to reinstall the fan and the fan shroud, put your grill and horn back on, refill the radiator with coolant, and your installation's finished. Once you're finished with the installation itself, you'll want to take the car to a local reputable shop and have the system charged. Classic Auto Air provides detailed instructions on how to charge the system properly using the correct 134a refrigerant. This is a time-consuming install. It is very tedious. There's a lot of working in very small locations, so give yourself the better part of a weekend for the installation. You'll be back on the road in no time.