COBB Front Mount Intercooler for 2013, 2014, 2015 and 2016 Focus STs.
Cooler air means more horsepower, and with a new Front Mount Intercooler from COBB, your 2013-2016 Focus ST will be running at its best! Even when stock, your factory intercooler can be overwhelmed with heatsoak that reduces horsepower. COBB designed their new Front Mount Intercooler using a 57 percent larger core with streamlined piping, resulting in charge air that is up to 100 degrees cooler.
- Core Size: 24" x 8" x 3.5"
- Cast Endtanks
- 2.5" Mandrel Bent Aluminum Tubing
- Wrinkle Black Powder Coated Tubing
- 4-ply Black Silicone Couplers
- Works with Factory Bumper Beam
After removing the grille shutters and drilling 2 simple holes, the COBB Front Mount Intercooler requires no other modifications for an easy installation with the included necessary hardware and custom black silicone adapters.
COBB's Front Mount Intercooler for the 2013-2016 Focus ST is the single best bolt-on modification on the market, allowing for much cooler intake temps and dramatic power increases when tuned with a COBB Accessport. Basic tune maps are available for the Ford Focus ST COBB Accessport, so it's tuned right out of the box!
Please Note: Intended for North American 2013-2016 Focus ST (USDM) fitment only.
COBB is an automotive engineering company dedicated to developing solutions that increase vehicle performance and the driving experience. COBB approaches design by taking the entire vehicle-platform into account as a complete system. Their premium quality products are professionally engineered, thoroughly tested and backed to ensure that they meet and exceed customer expectations.
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Today we're going to remove our factory intercooler and replace it with this intercooler kit from Cobb Tuning. Since we all know a cooler inlet charge is going to equal more horsepower for our Focus ST, the Cobb Intercooler Kit starts with this large intercooler core with the cast-end tanks. They gave you this optional decal if you did want to spray the Cobb name on the tank but you don't have to.
This is why we called it an intercooler kit. Instead of simply replacing the front intercooler and leaving all the stock charge pipes, Cobb includes these two and half inch mandrel bench charge pipes which are going to increase to our turbo's as well as our intercooler. Like all of their kits, Cobb includes everything needed for the installation and then some; high quality band clamps, all new silicon hoses, necessary hardware, an emblem, and even the correct drill bits for installation.
For this installation I'm going to need a lift or jack and jack stands, drill, three eighths ratchet, quarter inch ratchet, 13 millimeter socket, 10 millimeter socket, eight millimeter socket, seven millimeter socket, T30 Torx Bit, four millimeter Allen key, a couple extensions, 13 millimeter wrench, 10 millimeter wrench, eight millimeter wrench, seven millimeter wrench, flathead screwdriver, marker, and safety glasses.
To begin the installation we need to remove several components off the front of our car to get to our factory intercooler. We're going to start by removing both wheels, driver side fender liner, both head lights, as well as the front bumper. I'll remove the screws that hold the under tray in place. Once you remove the belly pan you remove the bolts that hold the splash pan on.
We're going to remove the driver side fender liner so we're going to work on removing the bumper. Start with these three plastic clips back here. Use a small screw driver or a panel removal tool. Basically you pull out the center piece and the rest of the clip will come out. The fender liner is still held in place by T30 Torx Bits located pretty much all over underneath. We're going to remove all of those to remove the fender liner. Now we're going to remove the fender liner.
On the passenger side you don't have to remove the entire fender liner but you do have to separate it from the bumper to make it easier to get it off. Start with this screw here and two underneath.
The next step is to remove the headlight which is held in by two torx screws, one here and one here. You want to have a flathead screwdriver handy to get the headlight clip off once the headlights removed. Just pop that out to remove the headlight harness. Repeat the process on the passenger side headlight.
Now we'll start removing the hardware that holds the bumper on. There's one of these torx screws on either side. You need to remove these four plastic connectors that are the same style as found on the wheel well. I'll carefully disconnect the hood latch. There's two 10 millimeter fascia where my thumb and finger are located. You want to loosen them up. You don't have to remove them. Just get them loose and the plastic tab will pop out so we can remove the bumper. Repeat the process on the passenger side.
Before you start removing the bumper, pop these clips up on both sides, give it a little tug, make sure it's clear before you try to remove it. Last step is just two plastic clips above those bolts we just loosened. Going to pop those out as well. Now we can carefully remove our bumper cover. Disconnect your fog light harness. I'll remove the clips here just pull on these and slide off our upper grill. Let's remove the two T30 torx screws holding the lower shroud in place. Squeeze the clips and this will pop right off.
Now we're going to work on removing the charge pipe in the factory intercooler. First thing we're going to do though is disconnect this harness here. This is for the factory shutter system. The lower charge pipe is held on in two occasions by 10 millimeter bolts in the front and the 13 millimeter nut in the rear.
Now we'll start at the clamp in the front of the charge pip on the intercooler. Make sure its loose and I'll move to the rear. Disconnect the other end of the charge pipe at the turbo and we're going to remove the charge pipe, start with the front here. Next remove the charge pipe from the intercooler going up to the intake. The other end of the charge pipe is right up here next to your oil foot that's kind of a tight spot. A small ratcheting wrench will definitely help. Get loose and you can pull it down and disconnect from the other side of the intercooler. You want to disconnect the map center before you try to remove the intercooler.
The intercooler is held to the bracket by two, eight millimeter bolts, one on this side and one on this side. Again a small wrench will be a lot easier to get in there than a full-sized socket. Now we can slide it outward and remove it.
The factory shutter system can not be used with a Cobb intake so we're going to remove that and put it aside next. You kind of half to sort of shimmy this to get it out. It's hanging downward on four clips.
That's it for the disassembly process. Now we can begin the installation of our Cobb Intercooler.
Now we're going to start drilling the holes to mount. There's two holes that have to be drilled to mount your Cobb intercooler. They're basically going to go in these holes here, one on this side and the other one over on this side here. If you get lucky there may be a nice dimpling here to go off of and drill. If you do have the dimple drill right into it. Case number 13, the back is completely smooth so we're going to have to line it up and drill a hole through it. You want to take your time with this part. This is a bumper bar. It's a crash part so obviously it's very strong. Drilling through it is going to take some time. Don't rush it. They give you good quality bits. Use a good drill, take your time and make a good quality hole.
We've got the pilot hole through. Cobb actually supplies both drill bits needed. If you have a step like we're using here it's actually going to be a lot easier so we're going to use this to drill our hole open to the proper 15-30 seconds. Once you get the first hole drilled, you want to hold up your intercooler and mock up the hole for the second side, mark that, and then drill that side as well. Get a place where we can get a rough idea of where it's going to be. I'll have to eyeball up that hole and drill the second hole on this side.
Once you have both holes drilled into the bumper support you're ready to actually mount your intercooler. When you watch this video this parts not going to look as hard as it really is. I've been doing this a long time. These are probably some of the hardest holes I've ever had to drill. Give yourself a good 45 minutes to even an hour to get these holes done, ready, and you can mount your intercooler.
I can rest on the lower radiator support and start putting it into place. Once you get all of the hardware started, we can tighten it down. You want to remove the map sensor from the old intercooler and install it on our new Cobb. You're going to remove the reducing pipe and silicon hose off the stock throttle bodies and replace it with the Cobb supply piece. There's two clamps. The bottom one you can reach from the bottom but the one for the coupler on the throttle body it's easier to get to it from the top. Then we'll use the Cobb two and half inch straight coupler and put on the factory throttle body. I'll put a clamp on it and tighten it down to the top.
Now we'll install the two silicon couplers on the sides of the intercooler. The shorter sides are going to go towards the inside so the Cobb will be on the outside. You want to tighten down the clamps all the way. Just tighten down so they're not completely loose but you still want to leave them loose enough that they'll move around.
The new charge pipe is going to come off the side of the intercooler up to the throttle body. Problem is it won't fit up between the radiator support and the compressor with the angle it has to go. What you do is disconnect the radiator support from the frame real up here, drop it down just enough to get the charge pipe in place.
If you get lucky at this point your radiator support will drop down. In our case we can see it's not moving yet because we have a little silver rivet holding it in place. Some cars have this rivet, not all of them do. If you do have the rivet you have to drill out to drop the radiator support. Now that it's unbolted we'll push this rubber grommet up through. That will give us a little more room to work with.
Then I'll put another clamp up on the throttle body silicon hose before we put the charge pipe in place. Make sure that it's tight enough that it stays up there. Do the same thing on the intercooler side. Make sure you leave it somewhere easy to get to, to tighten it up and we can start installing our charge pipe.
Now we'll tighten up all the clamps. Now we can move onto the driver side. Before we work on the driver side though make sure you re-install your radiator support. If your car had a rivet and you moved it, don't worry about re-installing a new rivet it really is not necessary.
Grab the reducer elbow with a loosely installed clamp and put it onto the turbo. Now we'll install the last two clamps. Again, put them on the pipe loosely then we'll put them on all the way. Put one on the intercooler here and the other one on the turbo. We can start fitting the charge pipe. Use the supplied hardware to tighten up to the block. Use the factory hardware to connect the other bracket. We'll tighten down all of the clamps.
Installation of our Cobb Front-Mount Air Cooler is now complete. We want to make sure since we can't reuse the shutter system you'll want to tie this out of the way with the supplied zip ties and you can re-install your front bumper. Reinstall the bumper support. When re-installing your front bumper make sure you don't forget to plug in the fog lights. Install the clips at the top of the radiator support.
Reinstall the T30 torx screws on both sides. Reconnect the hood release. Re-install the headlight, don't forget to plug it in. Don't forget to tighten up the bolts that we loosened to get the bumper cover separated from the fender. Re-install the small clip that holds the fender to the bumper cover. Splash shield up into place. Re-install the wheels and our installation is finished.
Given our success with other Cobb tuning products we have no doubt the intercooler kits going to do a great job keeping the temperatures down on our Focus allowing us to make more horse power. The installation is pretty straight forward but drilling a bumper can be a chore so give yourself about three or four hours for the installation and you'll be back on the road in no time.