cp-e xFlex Stage 2 Rear Motor Mount Kit with 65A Durometer for all 2016-2017 Focus RSs.
Keep the 2.3L turbocharged engine in your 2016-2017 Focus RS in its place with an xFlex Stage 2 Rear Motor Mount Kit with 65A Durometer from cp-e! Available at CJ Pony Parts, this rear motor mount is a significant upgrade over the factory motor mount. More supportive motor mounts help to increase the responsiveness and handling of your Focus.
cp-e xFlex Rear Motor Mount Kit FDXM00019B Features and Benefits:
- Billet CNC Construction
- 65A Durometer EPDM Bushing
- Stainless Steel Hardware Included
- Durability and Effectiveness Increased with Vertically Mounted Bushing
- Stabilizes Engine Rotational Movement
- Made in the USA
One look at the Focus RS rear motor mount and cp-e knew that there had to be a more effective way to hold the 2.3L engine in place. The horizontally mounted factory motor mount allowed for too much stress from side-to-side swaying. Thinking outside of the box, cp-e has manufactured this rear motor mount to mount vertically, nearly eliminating the horizontal stresses on the mount.
The mount is created from two 17.1lbs blocks of aluminum that go through a CNC machine and are reduced to only 2.17lbs. Instead of using traditional urethane bushings, cp-e uses a rubber style bushing called EPDM. EPDM bushings have a high heat tolerance, that will not break down or fail at higher temperatures like urethane will. The EPDM bushings also have a higher density, this allows the bushings to have a lower durometer rating yet still be highly reliable and provide solid support. In all, the EPDM style bushing provides a solid, firm mounting solution for performance driving, with minimal vibration due to the ability to have a lower durometer rating.
For the latest performance and enhancement equipment for your 2013+ Ford Focus ST, cp-e upgrade equipment is available from CJ Pony Parts. Developing everything for the Focus ST from cold air intakes, downpipes, and motor mounts, to intercoolers and full exhaust systems, CJ Pony Parts supplies our customers with the latest cp-e equipment.
Order this cp-e FDXM00019B xFlex Stage 2 Rear Motor Mount Kit with 65A Durometer for your 2016-2017 Focus RS from CJ Pony Parts today!
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The best way to fix it is an aftermarket motor mount. Today we're going to install cp-e's Stage2 xFlex mount on our Focus RS. We have used a cp-e xFlex mount previously on Focus ST installations and it always works real well. It is a much firmer mount so you get a little bit of NVH over the stock one, but it's totally worth it because the difference in the strength this mount it got rid of all of the wheel hop in our previous Focus.
Like all cp-e parts, the build quality on their xFlex mount is top notch. It's made of 6061 build aluminum that has their EPDM bushing, in this case a 65A durometer bushing, which would be a good middle of the road between traction and still livable noise and vibration.
For this installation a lift or a jack-in-jack stands, 3/8 ratchet, 15mm socket, 19mm socket, T30 torques bit, torque wrench, 15mm wrench, shorty 15mm wrench, flat-head screwdriver, and a 10mm Allen key.
Ford even realized the ST had an issue with the traction and motor mounts and swapped out all early Focus' to an electric mount. The RS has that same electric focus mount which works well, but definitely not at the level of a high performance care like the RS. We're going to begin the installation by removing this cover. I'm going to explain the process and Freddy here's going to handle the wrenching.
The lower covers held on by four push-pin clips, two on each side and two in the middle, and then a bunch of torque screws. Here's your factory rear engine mount, and as you can see it's a two-piece setup. You have the mount itself and then the bracket that bolts to the transmission. Unlike a lot of them they just replaced the mount, the cp is a two piece and replaces both of these pieces. First thing I'm going to do is actually separate the two I'm going to remove the motor mount first, and then the bracket.
The mounts separated from the bracket, now we can unbolt it from the sub-frame. Now to get the bracket off the transmission, there's going to be three bolts. There's going to be one on the side, one on the front side here, the other one in the back that has a plug over it, you've got to pull the plug off to get to it. Now the last one is the hardest to get to, you have to remove that plug from the stud, move the hoses out of the way to access it.
Okay remove the mount and the bracket. Here you can see the difference in quality between the stock two piece mount and our cp-e mount. If you look at this, on the stock one you actually have two bushings. You've got the one here, which you can see has a lot of flex to it, and another second one over here, which again, same idea. You've got a lot of flex to that as well. What the cp-e does is give you a solid mount on one side so there's no play here at all, and all the play is going to be in this bushing here which is much stronger than the factory. I mean you can still move it, but it's a lot stronger, you'll have a lot less movement. Definitely do a good job of getting rid of our wheel hop.
The first step in installing the cp-e is actually to assemble the mount and the bracket together. You're going to do that on the table off the car, and then put the whole assembly up into place. Once the hardware is on, you're going to leave it hand tight and put the assembly up in the car.
Now you can put the new mount up into place, you may have to shimmy the engine just a little bit to get everything in there. We're going to reinstall the factory bolts with a dab of Loctite on the front here and on the back edge here. I'm going to use a supply bolt from the cp-e on this one right here. Now you can start tightening the bolts but you want to make sure you get all three bolts in before you snug them down. Okay, now that all three bolts are hand tight we can go back through and tighten all three down.
Now what you want to do is line up the rear bolt for the mount and put it back in place and use the factory bolt, again with a little Loctite on it, you may have to push against the transmission and engine to get it to line up. Now you re-torque the factor bolts to eighty foot pound. Now we're going to torque the motor mount's bracket bolt to the same eighty foot pound. And you're ready to install the cover and your installation finished.
Now looking at the cp-e mounting you can immediately tell it's going to do a much better job. You're going from two soft rubber mounts to one EPDM mount that's a much firmer bushing and do a much better job. So the question I know a lot of you are going to ask is what's the NVH like, is it bad, do you notice it? Honestly the only time I notice it is if you're at a stop, from about 1000 to 1500, just right when you let the clutch out and pull out, you can feel a little bit more. It's not bad, the car doesn't shake, the shifter doesn't shake. That's where you can feel it. Now let's go out on the road a little bit and we'll see how it is for normal driving.
Out on the road, going through the gears feels exactly the same. There's no additional vibration through the shifter, nothing at all, I mean it feels exactly like the car felt yesterday when we were out on the road driving it. The only time you feel even at all is if you almost get to the point where you're bogging the motor, it's that 1000, I'll say 1000 to 1500 seems to be where it's at. Like I'm down, get it down to where you normally wouldn't drive anyway. Down there, as soon as the motor bogs just a little bit, you feel it. You do feel a little more vibration, you feel it in the seat, get a little bit through the shifter, but normal driving, you don't even notice it.
So really the only time you're really going to feel any kind of NVH change is just when you're pulling out from a traffic light, when you first put it in gear, you know if you pull out between 1000 and 1500, a low RPM, normal traffic light launch, you're going to get a little bit of it. But again, normal driving, I'm just cruising at 2000 RPMs now, we're in fifth gear doing 45 MPH and nothing. Feels exactly the same way as it felt with the stock stuff in place.
Yes, again, as soon as you let the clutch out you get a little bit. If you rev it up a little higher, it goes away, it's just that barely off idle. Just like right there, I mean just from idle just revving it to 1000, 1200 feel a little bit in there, but you rev it past there, it's completely gone. Again that idle range, you don't feel it at idle at all, it's just in that little window and honestly the only time you're ever going to be in there is at a light launch. That's it. Launch is the wrong word, pulling out into traffic, pulling out from a traffic light, whatever.
On a side note, this car is still an absolute blast to drive. A lot of people have asked me my opinion of the RS. Is it worth the price over the ST? Is it worth the same money as the Mustang and GT? It is a different car. For everybody is it worth it? Probably not, but depends what you're looking for. It's a firmer ride, it's definitely more performance oriented and it is a fun car to drive. I'm assuming like the other models, like the ST's and the Mustang's we've worked on the more miles we do it probably the more fun it will get.
I'm sure if we were to get a few more mods, cold air tuned, down pipe, stuff like that, this thing should probably pick up quite a bit of power too. Whether you're a track car, weekend warrior, your daily drive or whatever, no reason at all not to go with one of these cp-e mounts, because it does a great job, there's no wheel hop issues at all, the car basically just hooks and goes. Like I said, the vibration issue is nothing to worry about. It's definitely okay for any kind of driving, literally you'll notice it at one RPM point and that's it.