Door Hinge Check Roller Bushing/Pin 1982-1993 Built After 7/1982

CJ's Part Number: HW2858
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Door Hinge Check Roller Bushing/Pin 1982-1993 Built After 7/1982
Door Hinge Check Roller Bushing/Pin 1982-1993 Built After 7/1982 Door Hinge Check Roller Bushing/Pin 1982-1993 Built After 7/1982 Play Door Hinge Check Roller Bushing/Pin 1982-1993 Built After 7/1982 Video 1

Product Description

Door Hinge Check Roller Bushing and Pin for all 1982, 1983, 1984, 1985, 1986, 1987, 1988, 1989, 1990, 1991, 1992 and 1993 Mustangs Built After July, 1982.

When opening up your Fox Body door do you notice that the door won’t stay open by its self? If so it might be time to replace the Door Hinge Check Roller Bushing and Pin. This Door Hinge Check Roller Bushing and Pin is a direct replacement for all 1982-1993 Mustangs built after July, 1982. The main job of the Door Hinge Check Roller Bushing and Pin is to roll on the check arm allowing the door to stay open.

Features:
- Fits all 1982-1993 Mustangs
- OEM Style Replacement
- Fiberglass Reinforced Nylon Roller Bushing
- Fits Driver or Passenger Side of Mustang

Please Note: This Door Hinge Check Roller Bushing and Pin is sold individually, two are required per 1982-1993 Mustang.

The Roller Bushing is constructed from high quality Nylon that features reinforced fiberglass that is built in to the nylon, this allows for a longer life span. The Roller Pin gets pressed into the lower door hinge on either side of your Mustang. The pin acts as a base for the Roller Bushing to spin on when you open and close the door on your 1982-1993 Fox Body Mustang.

Whether you’re looking for an exterior mirror, wheels and tires, headlights and taillights or a set of interior upholstery, CJ’s has the parts you need to complete your Fox Body Mustang restoration with ease! CJ’s has the parts you need to bring your 1982-1993 Mustang build back to life--browse our huge selection of exterior parts for your Mustang today!

Purchase a new Door Hinge Check Roller Bushing and Pin for your 1982, 1983, 1984, 1985, 1986, 1987, 1988, 1989, 1990, 1991, 1992 and 1993 Mustangs Built After July, 1982 from CJ Pony Parts today!

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Installation Instructions

Mustang Installation

Mustang Applications

This product will fit the following Ford Mustang years:

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Product Video

Door Hinge Check Roller Bushing/Pin 1982-1993 Built After 7/1982 Video Transcript
By Bill Tumas: We've mentioned in other videos with certain model Mustangs, if you own one of them long enough, there are certain repairs you are going to have to do. You happen to own a Fox Body Mustang, one of those repairs is going to be the door pins and bushings. The pins and bushings are going to mount in the center of your door hinge and connect the body mount part of the hinge to the door part of the hinge. When these go bad, the door is going to sag and not close properly. While not the easiest install, it's not as bad to replace as you might think. Today we are going to show you how using this ‘87 Mustang Coupe. This is our master door hinge pin and bushing kit. This is going to fit every Fox Body made between July of ‘82 through 1993.

It includes enough to do both doors, including the door pins, new bushings, the new check roller, along with the new check pin. This will keep the door opening smoothly and not sagging. This will actually keep it staying open like it's supposed to and not have the door moving freely. I should mention the door hinge pins and the bushings themselves will fit all 1979 through ‘93 Fox Bodies. It's just the roller and the check pin that are specific to the July ‘82 and up car. It's very easy to determine what part your Fox Body needs. All you need to do is open the door all the way up and lift up on the door. This is how you check the pins and bushings.

If you have play, like our door does here, your pins and bushings need to be replaced. As far as the roller and check pin go, you just want to see that the door stays open. As you can see, ours drifts closed, so the roller is not doing its job either. We're going to replace all those parts while we are in there. For this installation, you'll need a jack and a jack stand, hammer, selection of punches, small pick, vice grips, needle nose pliers, and some sort of cutting tool.

I should mention before we get too far into the installation, this is pretty much a two-man job. You can do it yourself, but you are taking the door off a car, and the door is going to be rather heavy. Having an extra set of hands is going to make it a lot easier. Also, depending how nice your paint job is, you probably want to put some tape over the front edge here. Make sure you have rags for both the jack and the jack stand so under the door, it doesn't damage your paint.

Here you can see the pin and bushings on this car. This is your upper, and your lower is going to be down below, the exact same basic setup. If it is the original Ford pin, you will need a Dremel or some sort of a cutting tool because you will have to cut it in half and then break it apart. In the case of our ‘87, they were replaced at one point in time, which being that it is a 30 year old car is nothing unusual. These will have to be hammered out.

The first thing we will do is put some rags in your jack stand and support the outside of the door. If the door sags, which it should be if you are doing this installation, you want to lift the door up and get it as flat as possible so you are taking some weight off the pin to make it easier to get it out. What we are going to do is use the jack on the inside. Once we remove the pins, we're going to slowly slide the door away from the body. Like I said, ours has replacement pins in it, so these are simply going to have to be hammered out.

There should be a cotter pin holding the pin in place. Whoever replaced these last time either didn't do it or somewhere over time it fell out. Will go right into hammering this thing out of our way. The bottom pin does have the cotter pin. We are going to remove that first. Be careful because once you remove both pins, the door can slide off the hinges. Now we are going to take the door off the hinge. We'll just slide it outward. We are going to use the jack to help support it. This is the part where you definitely need an extra set of hands to help balance everything.

The bushings we are looking at are right here. They are on the door side of the hinge itself. One from the bottom, one from the top. We are going to hammer those out and replace them with new ones and work on the bottom next. I'm going to put a little grease in the holes first to make it easier to get the new bushings in place. We will start with the top one. It makes it easier to just to put it on the pin. We'll now do the same on the bottom. I'm going to do the check roller and the roller pin at the bottom here while we are out the same way. You need a small punch, and just hammer it out from the center.

I'm going to put some grease up in here to help get the other new check pin in place. We have the roller in place. I think I'm going to put a little bit of grease in here and install the lower bushings. Now I'm going to slide the door back on and connect the hinges together again. Another part we definitely need another extra set of hands to make your life a lot easier. We are going to start with the top pin. We will install a cotter pin once it's in place. We have the cotter pin in, and now we are going to move on to the bottom pin. Through here reinstall the cotter pin. We want to repeat the process on the other side, and your installation is finished.

We were going to show you the passenger side, but then we realized that it is actually the original bushings, hinge pins, and everything on this side. We are going to show you how to remove these rollers and show you the whole process since everything else is the same. We are going to show you how to cut out the original pins. We are ready to cut it off, but in our case we're going to use a Dremel, but anything sharp that can get in there as some sort of a rotary tool should be able to cut through it.

Both doors of our ‘87 coupe are now opening and closing like they're supposed to and sealed like they should be. To be perfectly honest, the bushings on our driver door were a little on the worn side, but probably could have benefited from an oversize bushing because of the wear. There is a little bit of movement still. This door came apart a lot easier than yours probably will at home. Expect to spend about an hour and half to two hours per door and be back on the road in no time.