Eibach Sportline Coil Spring Set for 2011-2014 V6 and GT Mustangs and 2012-2013 Boss 302 Mustangs.Eibach SPORTLINE is the extreme-performance spring set created for the extreme enthusiast - the one who craves a race-car attitude for maximum street performance - with the lowest possible drop, but with the exceptional ride quality you expect from Eibach.
Engineered with the same care as PRO-KIT springs, Eibach SPORTLINE springs achieve legendary handling by aggressively lowering your car's center of gravity, using Eibach's precision engineered progressive spring rates.
By radically lowering your car's center of gravity, Eibach's SPORTLINE springs dramatically reduce squat during acceleration, body roll in corners and nose-dive under braking. By using their proprietary, progressive spring design, Eibach SPORTLINE springs provide the ultimate balance between high performance, extreme lowering and comfortable ride quality. When combined with today's wild 18", 19" or 20" wheels and tires, the result is a car that handles just as white-hot as it looks.
-Race car like handling
-Lower center of gravity
-Stop quicker, corner faster and get better MPG
-Eibach million-mile warranty
-V6 Coupe = 1.1" Front/1.1" Rear
-GT Coupe = 1.3" Front/2" Rear
-V6/GT Convertible = 1.4" Front/1.5" Rear
Product ReviewsWrite a review
How much do these springs lower the Boss 302 ?
Can I used them with the standard Damper shocks?
can this be installed on a 2013 "5.0 mustang? if not what kind can be installed and is safe, with warrenty
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Eibach offers two sets of lowering springs to the 2011 through 2013 Mustang; the Pro Kit and the Sportlines seen here. The Sportlines is the more aggressive of the two, which is going to give us approximately a 2"drop in the back and an 1 1/2" drop in the front. The kit includes all four springs and a pair of new lower bump stops.
For this installation, we're going to need a jack and jack stands, or a lift and pole jack, 1/2" impact gun, 13/16th socket, 1" socket, 18mm socket, 21mm socket, 3/8 ratchet, T40 Torx bit, 8mm socket, 10mm socket, 13mm socket, 15mm socket, 18mm wrench, hammer, spring compressor, torque wrench, razor blade, Lock Tight, and safety glasses.
We're going to start with the front springs. We'll start by removing the two nuts on the inside of both sides, which will also remove our strut tower brace. Now, we'll just loosen the outers. You don't want to remove them, but basically just break them free. Now with the car up in the air, we'll remove our wheels.
To remove our original strut, first we disconnect our sway bar, then we'll take the brake line off the back here and, lastly, the two retaining nuts that hold the spindle to the strut. Then remove the bolt in the back here that holds the brake line to the bracket. Remove the little Christmas Tree clip for the ABS line. Now, move on to the two nuts that retain the spindle to the strut. Now, you want to hammer out the bolts. Now, go back and remove the nuts for the strut top. And now we can remove the strut.
Now we need to remove the spring from the strut assembly. You will need a spring compressor tool to do this to safely get it off the strut. Once you have it properly compressed, and it's no longer leaning against the strut top here, you can remove the strut nut. Now, remove the compressor. Last step with the stock spring is we're going to remove the factory isolator and move it over to our new Eibach.
Now, we're ready to put it back on our strut. We'll install the spring on the strut. For the Sportlines, we probably don't need our spring compressor. If you're using a different kind of spring, you may need the compressor to get down far enough. We've learned from the past, the Sportlines are low enough you usually don't.
Make sure the end is seated properly on the strut and push it all the way up against that edge there. We'll install our strut mount, again with the cutout, with the spring. Before you install the strut nut, you'll want to put a dab of Lock Tight on the threads. Press down a little bit and get the nut started. I'll tighten it down. Put the cap back on, ready to reinstall on our car.
Now, we're ready to reinstall the strut assembly. You want to make sure when you put it up into the strut tower, this little notch here is facing outward, lined up with the edge of the strut. Tighten these down enough to hold it in place. You don't want to tighten them all the way just yet. We're going to lift this up into place. Reinstall the nut, and reinstall the bolt for the brake hose bracket. Now, reinstall the clip for the ABS line, and move back to the sway bar. Now, we'll reinstall the wheel and repeat the process on the other side.
You want to make sure, once you put the wheel on, you torque it to the proper spec before driving. Once you've finished the driver's side spring, then we're going to tighten the outer two nuts for the strut mounts then reinstall our strut tower brace. Now you can move onto the rear springs.
Now, we're ready to work on the rear springs. The first thing we're going to do is to support our axle. After that, remove the nut and bolt that holds the sway bar into place, that way we can access the bolt to remove the rear shock, which will allow us to remove our spring. Next, remove the bolt for the rear shock. Now, we're going to lower down the rear and remove our original spring. Now, we're going to replace the bump stop with the shorter one. If you leave the stock one on, you'll have some ride issues because the lower spring allows the bottom out too easily.
Here you can see the installed height difference between the stock bump stop and the Eibach bump stop included with the kit. Lubricate the new one a little bit to install it. There you go, ready to reinstall. We're going to reinstall the factory isolator spring back into place. And you'll want to leave with the bottom end of the coil towards the back of the car.
Now, we'll jack the rear back up into place and lift it until the shock lines up with the hole. Slide the retaining nut in the back, and slide the bolt through. Now, you want to leave the sway bar disconnected and repeat the process on the other side. Once you've done the other side, then you can reconnect your sway bar.
When we reattach our sway bar, we want to make sure both links are inside of the exhaust. If you tighten one up, you won't be able to get the other one installed. And the installation is finished.
Our Eibach Sportlines gave our 2011 the look we wanted: the car sits flat, it's nice and low, the wheel well gap is almost gone. Best of all, it's going to be a huge improvement in handling. Installation should take you around two hours. You'll be back on the road in no time.