Eibach Pro-Plus Suspension Kit for all 1979, 1980, 1981, 1982, 1983, 1984, 1985, 1986, 1987, 1988, 1989, 1990, 1991, 1992 and 1993 GT and Cobra Coupe or Hatchback Mustangs.
Enhance the handling and suspension capabilities of your 1979-1993 GT or Cobra Coupe or Hatchback Mustang with this impressive new Pro-Plus Suspension Kit produced by Eibach, now available from CJ Pony Parts. This kit contains all superior quality products, well-known for improving the suspension feel and handling of your Mustang through the corners while also giving your Mustang a lowered, race-style stance.
With the Eibach Pro-Plus Kit installed, you will undoubtedly notice and understand the benefits of the kits increased precision turn-in response, improved handling, and enhanced cornering grip in any performance-driving situation you may find yourself in. This Eibach Pro-Plus kit was designed and thoroughly tested to out-perform the competitions suspension kits and work well with either factory or aftermarket performance dampers alike.
Eibach Pro-Plus Suspension Kit Features and Benefits:
- Four (4) Urethane Bushings for Properly Mounting the Included Sway Bars
- Two (2) Front Eibach Performance Lowering Springs for Improved Suspension Performance
- Two (2) Rear Eibach Performance Lowering Springs for Improved Suspension Performance
- Improved Handling and Enhanced Cornering Grip for Excellent Ride Quality
- 36 Millimeter Front Sway Bar
- 25 Millimeter Rear Sway Bar
- Quicker Stopping Times for Increased Safety and Comfort
- Faster Cornering Ability for Improved Handling Through Turns
- Achieve Greater Fuel Economy
If you enjoy pushing your 1979-1993 Mustang through the corners, then this Eibach Pro-Plus Performance Handling Package is something that you need to look into. This kit delivers impressive handling ability as well as a lowered, more aggressive ride stance. Eibach Pro-Plus packages come with Eibach's world class quality Eibach Pro-Kit springs, as well as a pair of matching Anti-Roll-Kit sway bars.
The Eibach Anti-Roll-Kit sway bars vastly increase roll stiffness, and gives you the pure, balanced-handling perfection that you have been searching for. This Eibach Pro-Kit allows you to lower your 1979-1993 Mustang's center of gravity, greatly increasing your vehicles overall stability while reducing squat during times of hard acceleration, keeping your Mustang's front end pinned to the ground. It also gives the added benefit of lowering your Mustang's body roll as you power through tough corners, and eliminating nose-dives during periods of hard braking.
Please Note: CJ Pony Parts recommends that a four-wheel alignment be performed after the application of this Eibach Pro-Plus Suspension Kit.
The suspension in the average Mustang is just that: Average. For performance drivers, average isn't going to cut it. These Mustangs need a much better tuned and more durable suspension to be able to handle all of the performance situations it may encounter. There's no suspension better equipped to do that than the parts from Eibach. CJ Pony Parts has Eibach parts for late and present model Mustangs, available for order now.
Buy yourself a new Eibach Pro-Plus Suspension Kit for your 1979, 1980, 1981, 1982, 1983, 1984, 1985, 1986 1987, 1988, 1989 1990, 1991, 1992 or 1993 GT or Cobra Coupe or Hatchback Mustang from CJ Pony Parts today!
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This is Eibach's pro plus kit is going to fit your 1979 through 1993 Mustang Coup or Hatchback. There is a separate part number available if you do have a mustang convertible. The kit includes everything necessary to improve the handling on your mustang at the same time decreasing body roll and nose dive when heavy braking. Starts with the Eibach's tried and true pro kit springs, which is a progressive rate spring will lower your mustang approximately an inch and a half all the way around.
Tied into that is going to be their sway bar kit, it's 36mm front and 25mm rear, which will be much larger than your factory ones and will do a much better job. Finishing it all off is a set of end links and all the hardware necessary for installation.
For this installation you’ll need a jack and jack stand or lift and a pole jack, a half inch impact or half inch wrench, 13mm socket, 15mm socket, 18mm socket, 21mm socket, 3/8 ratchet, 9/16 socket, 14mm socket, assorted extensions, 9/16 wrench, 14mm wrench, 18mm wrench, 24mm wrench, flat head screwdriver, pry bar, and a hammer.
First step in the process of the installation, remove all 4 wheels get the car off the ground. We're ready to get started. In case you missed some of our other videos, this is Freddy. He's going to be assisting me in some of our install videos on the Mustang, he's also going to handle some of our truck and focus stuff as well. We're going to start by doing the front springs and the front spray bar first. We spared everything with some PB blaster in advance. On our older car, not a bad idea make everything a little bit looser. We'll start by disconnecting the lower part of the end links to the control arm.
Remove the links, remove the bushing on the bottom. There is a container up top that's supposed to hold the nuts, but sometimes as it gets older, sometimes it just breaks and doesn't do that. In this case, we'll need a screwdriver here, pop the retainer out of the way, just put a wrench up there.
Remove the sway bar, through the splash shields. The front sway bar from Eibach comes with new end links and new bushings, but you have to keep the original bracket. To remove them, if you look, there's 4 tabs. 2 of the tabs are shorter than the other ones. You work from the side with the short tabs, get a little screwdriver in there, simply pop the tabs free and remove the bracket.
With the sway bar out of the way, now we can move onto removing the springs in the front. To do that, first we're going to start by taking the caliper off, hanging that out of the way, then we need to disconnect the strut and then we'll lower it down. Freddy's going to get the jack under the control arm. We're doing to support this. Now what we're going to do, disconnect the strut at the tower and then lower the whole thing down, that allows a better chance of getting the spring out.
The control arm's still supported, the strut loose at the top, we're going to take it off at the bottom as well. Now you want to hold on to the spring while you carefully pry it out. With the spring out, don't forget about the top insulator, which normally will not come out with the spring. Going to remove that as well. We're going to be replacing ours with some new polyurethane. Here you can see 2 things. One is the comparison between the stock spring and the new Eibach spring. Obviously your new Eibach's going to be much lower, progressive rate spring's also going to be a lot more performance and ride better, and you can also see the condition of the factory insulator, definitely have to be replaced.
We’re going to be replacing the worn out rubber isolators from these units from Prothane. These are polyurethane, going to be much stronger than the factory ones, and includes a new upper mount and a new lower mount. The lower mount, you basically just thread onto the coil spring. It's kind of easy to twist it as it goes on, but it goes on fairly easily. Basically get it right out until it's right on the end.
Before the loose springs go in, just want to base and clean this out, get all the debris, dirt, that you can out of here before we put our new springs and new insulators in. If you look at the lower control, you can see there is a little cut out where that spring is going to go. Just line it up and then we got to push it into place here. What we're going to do to install the spring is use a large pry bar and simply pry it up into pace. If you're not comfortable with that, you can remove the lower control arm and do it that way. It's tough to get a spring compressor in here. The pry bar is usually the best way, just be very careful. Once you get the spring up on the control arm, jack it into place.
I'm going to put the strut back up into place. Just going to hand tie it up top here and then we can reconnect it to the spindle. Now we can tighten down the strut. Now we can bring back caliper, reinstall that. Once everything's tight down there, the last step is to tighten the nut for the strut. Now repeat the process on the other side and we'll move on to the sway bar.
Freddy: Bill's pulling components for the rear suspension to get that ready, and while he's doing that, I'm going to get the front sway bar ready. What I need to do is install the new bushings and lubricate them. The kit comes with lube, tear it open. Now I'm going to lube this bushing. I'm going to lube the inside and the outside with the lube that's supplied in the kit. You're probably going to want to wear gloves for this, because you will get lube all over your hands. If you don't lube these properly, the bushings will wear prematurely and they might squeak as well.
Now once you have it properly lubricated with the grease, put it on the sway bar. Do the exact same thing with the other bushing. Now that you have the bushing lubricated and installed on the sway bar, now it's time to install the factory mount. Installing this bracket, it installs the same way as you took it apart. You put the long tabs in first and push it in.
Bill: Now that Freddy has the bar ready, we put it back into place. We're going to be installing the front brackets now. We're going to be using some new hardware. This is meant to be done with the original factory hardware. In our case, it wasn't in the best of shape, so we picked up some new hardware to mount the brackets.
What we want to do is just get them hand tight for now. The sway bar hanging and not tight, now we're going to grab the end links, start assembling those. These come assembled, so just take them apart and put them back together the exact way they were assembled. When you get to that point where you got one washer and bushing and a nut left, you have to jack the control arm up a little bit to get it to come through the bottom enough to be able to connect everything there.
Again, just get a turn on it, get it hand tight for now, do the other side, that way you'll have a little play to get everything to line up. Now that you have the endlinks on, I'm going to tell you right now, the end links are frustrating. It's going to look a lot easier in this video than it actually is. Sometimes you may have to pry the bar side to side to get these to line up enough to get the hardware on. Once you have these tight, you don't want them tightened all the way. We're going to tighten the brackets in the middle first, then go back and tighten the end links.
These, you don't want to over tighten. You want to start tightening them just until the bushings start to squash a little bit and you're good. Okay that does it for the front suspension, now we can move on to the rear. The rear suspension's a little bit easier. To get the sway bar off, get 2 bolts on each side, it's going to simply be removed. There's no brackets to worry about. To get the spring out, you just remove the bolt in the back of the control arm, lower the control arm, and the spring will come out.
The control arm's supported by our pole jack. Now you can remove the hardware from the lower control arm. Okay. Now we can lower the control arm down. Spring will just fall out. Make sure it comes out with the upper and then don't forget to remove the lower insulator. Just a look at installing the new springs, a new Prothane polyurethane upper and lower mounts.
I'm putting the lower mount into place. Need a little lube to get that on there. Make sure it's centered. The spring will do the rest of the work. Rubber into place, tails, back of the car like always, then put the control arm back up into place. Then we have to use a pry bar just to line this up. That's started. You can lower it down.
At this point we're going to get this tighter, we're not going to snug it all the way down. I like to actually get the car on the ground to get some weight on the suspension, that way you don't bind it up. We'll tighten it all the way down once it's back on the ground. You want to repeat the process on the other side with the passenger side spring and control arm. Now we can put our new sway bar up into place. Freddy's going to give me a hand, he's going to get the hardware started. You do want to use the supplied hardware, the original stuff's not going to work. The clips will not fit over this.
The nuts on these will just get a couple threads to get them started. They are designed to lock into place once you tighten them down, they are going to be a lot tighter. Once all 4 are installed now, we can tighten them down. Then once you're done there, you can reinstall your wheels and tires and your installation's finished.
The Eibach pro plus suspension gives our 92 GT a nice flat stance, the impressive springs and a larger roll bar, it's going to handle a lot better, a lot less body roll as well. The installation is time consuming, figure about 4-5 hours. You'll be back on the road in no time.