EngineStat Electronic Engine Status Monitor for all 1965, 1966, 1967, 1968, 1969, 1970, 1971, 1972 and 1973 Mustangs and 1966, 1967, 1968, 1969, 1970, 1971, 1972, 1973, 1974, 1975, 1976 and 1977 Broncos.
Are you constantly worried that something is going to go wrong with the engine of your classic 1965-1973 Mustang or 1966-1977 Bronco? Stop trusting ten-cent bulbs to let you know when something is wrong with your engine! Instead, get some piece of mind with the EngineStat Electronic Engine Status Monitor, now available at CJ Pony Parts!
EngineStat Engine Monitor Features and Benefits:
- Able to monitor critical parameters from your smartphone or tablet display
- Helps prevent major engine problems by alerting owners of low or dangerous engine levels
- Provides updated emergency warning system to classic cars that rely on warning lights
- Connects with EngineStat app available in the Google PlayStore and the Apple App Store
- Connected phone app will alert if the app is closed or in sleep mode
- Easy to install
- Quick and easy to program
- Kit includes engine module, wiring, connectors and complete instructions
This electronic engine monitor will bring your classic ride into the 21st century! The easy-to-install system contains a small box that clips into your vehicle's existing wiring. The box neatly fits into your engine compartment and will bring on-board computer diagnostics to your vintage beauty. This monitor system allows you to see critical levels like oil pressure, engine temp, battery usage, vacuum and RPM, which will instantly let you know if something is wrong. Your engine can be quickly destroyed in minutes--don't trust little light bulbs to let you know when something is wrong! Instead, use the EngineStat monitor and app and see how your Mustang or Bronco is driving!
- Oil Pressure
- Voltage Battery and Harness
Please Note: Mustangs or Broncos with oil pressure gauges (not the standard oil pressure indicator lamp) must use the Adapter Kit (MPESADPT) for accurate oil pressure readings.
Learn more about the EngineStat Smartphone App in the Google Playstore or the Apple App Store today!
Whether you’re looking for an exterior mirror, wheels and tires, headlights and taillights or a set of interior upholstery, CJ’s has the parts you need to complete your classic Mustang or Bronco restoration with ease! Browse our huge selection of restoration parts today!
Order this premium EngineStat Electronic Engine Status Monitor for your classic 1965, 1966, 1967, 1968, 1969, 1970, 1971, 1972 or 1973 Mustang or 1966, 1967, 1968, 1969, 1970, 1971, 1972, 1973, 1974, 1975, 1976 or 1977 Bronco from CJ Pony Parts today!
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We all know, when driving the car, it's very important to keep an eye on what's happening under the hood. In the case of the Factory 1965 Mustang gauges, they just don't do a very good job of that. Today, we're going to take a much more moderate approach and add this engine stat kit under the good. The engine stat kit's going to allow us to monitor RPM, vacuum, battery voltage, temperature and oil pressure. It's going to do it all wirelessly to an Android device. Today, we're figuring out how to install this using our 1965 Mustang Coupe.
The engine stat kit is a universal kit, so it's not limited just to Mustangs. It will work on other classic vehicles as well. It includes the brain-box here, all necessary wire for installation. Like I said, it's going to monitor RPM, battery voltage, vacuum, oil pressure and temperature with all the wires and sensors included. It's going to broadcast these signals to your Bluetooth device. It'll work on either your Android tablet or your Android phone.
Once the kit's installed on the car and running, you simply turn on your Bluetooth, go to the app and open it up. It'll give you all that information. Now, if you do have an Apple phone, don't worry. There is an app coming for the Apple in the future so it'll work on both Android or Apple platforms.
For this installation, you're going to need a 1/4" ratchet, a 3/8 socket, 1/2" socket, Wire crimpers and a lighter or heat gun. The first thing you want to do is figure out where you're going to mount the box. You've got to make sure everything reaches. The wire's obviously going to be extended. You have a vacuum line that you kind of want to make sure reaches where your vacuum source is going to go. In our case it’s going to go on the radiator support down here underneath the voltage regulator. You want to hide it as much as possible. We're not going to go into a lot of detail on the installation as far as hiding the wires, you guys can handle that on your own. We're just going to show you where all the connections go and, more importantly, how the system actually works.
Since you are dealing with electrical connections, we're going to start the installation by disconnecting our battery. We're going to start with the temperature setting unit, you want it as close to the hose as possible on the top of the radiator. Just find a good location. It's simply going to slide in with the fins here. Just going to check it first. Just slide it in like that. Before you do that, though, it's going to provide a grease which will give you a much better seal.
The next step is to connect the red yellow wires to our coil. The yellow is going to go to the negative. The red is going to go to the positive. That's going to give us our RPM signal for the tachometer. I'm going to twist these wires up. Make it a little bit cleaner when installing it.
The kit includes these ring terminals. I'm going to make connections here. Crimp them on before I install the wire. The connections made. Now use a heat gun or even a lighter to shrink the heat shrink. Again, the yellow is going to be connected here to the negative side or the distributor side. The red goes to the positive or the battery side up here.
The next two connections are for powering the unit and also for monitoring our voltage. The black is going to go to our battery ground. The brown to the positive. Now install the provided ring terminals on the brown and black wires. Then we can make our connections at the battery.
Now you want to locate your oil pressure switch. The white wire is going to go to the switch itself. When you unplug the harness from the switch, the blue wire connects to the factory harness. The white wire goes to the oil pressure switch which is going to have the male studs. The one with the female terminal on the white wire. The blue wire plugs back into the harness so that will get the male end. Then, again, once the connection is made, heat up the shrink. The oil pressure switch is right here on the side of the block. That'll go into our factory harness and the white is on the sensor.
The last connection we're going to make on the engine is going to be for vacuum. The provided T-fittings can go right into our existing vacuum line. In our case, we have an empty vacuum port already installed on the car. We're just going to use that instead. Now go back to the box and make all of our connections. Everything is color coded, makes it real easy. Now we can reconnect our battery and test it out.
With everything connected, now we can start our car up. Launch the app, make sure your Bluetooth is turned on. As you can see, it’s telling us our oil pressure is good. Gives our radiator temperate, ignition, battery voltage. The tachometer is off a little bit. There is an update for a 6 cylinder. The current one we have in here is only for a V8, so that is off a little bit, but that's the only reason that's off. You can also go in the gauges. You can click on this. You can see you can go through another tachometer, voltage. You have to mount your car. You can actually count this on the dash and use them as the only gauges as well.
Now you want to go back mount the box, hide your wires, and you're installation us finished. The engine stat is a great idea for any classic car. It gives you a lot more control, a lot more view over what's happening under hood which is definitely great if you're going to be driving the car going down the road. As far as the installation, it's fairly straightforward. Really isn't time consuming at all. Just hide all the wires, make a few connections, nothing permanent and you're back on the road in no time.