Ford Door Hinge Rebuild Kit for all 1982, 1983, 1984, 1985, 1986, 1987, 1988, 1989, 1990, 1991, 1992 and 1993 Mustangs Built After July, 1982.
Over the years the doors on your Fox Body Mustang can sag due to the weight of the door. If the doors are sagging you can have problems with door fitment as well as chipped paint on the edges. If you are having these issues you might want to replace your door hinge components and replace them with this Door Hinge Rebuild Kit from Ford.
- Door Hinge Pins (4)
- Door Hinge Pin Bushings (8)
- Lower Door Hinge Rollers (2)
- Lower Door Hinge Roller Pins (2)
The Hinge Pin Bushings get pressed into the Door Hinge Brackets on the door. The Door Hinge Pins slide through the bushings and provides a snug fit, allowing the door to open and close with ease. Ford Door Hinge Rollers get installed on the lower door hinge and rolls on the Door Check Tension Arm this keeps the door fully open when you leave the door open. The Lower Door Hinge Pins hold the Lower Door Hinge Roller in place and allows the roller to spin freely.
The Ford Mustang consists of thousands of different parts. Throughout every generation of the car, the Ford Motor Company has made many of their Mustang parts internally, meaning if you're looking to replace a part on your Mustang, there's no better source than the OEM parts from Ford. CJ Pony Parts offers hundreds of parts from Ford for all years of Mustang, so you should have no problem finding exactly what you need.
Ford Door Hinge Rebuild Kit for all 1982, 1983, 1984, 1985, 1986, 1987, 1988, 1989, 1990, 1991, 1992 and 1993 Mustangs Built After July, 1982 from CJ Pony Parts today!
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It includes enough to do both doors, including the door pins, new bushings, the new check roller, along with the new check pin. This will keep the door opening smoothly and not sagging. This will actually keep it staying open like it's supposed to and not have the door moving freely. I should mention the door hinge pins and the bushings themselves will fit all 1979 through ‘93 Fox Bodies. It's just the roller and the check pin that are specific to the July ‘82 and up car. It's very easy to determine what part your Fox Body needs. All you need to do is open the door all the way up and lift up on the door. This is how you check the pins and bushings.
If you have play, like our door does here, your pins and bushings need to be replaced. As far as the roller and check pin go, you just want to see that the door stays open. As you can see, ours drifts closed, so the roller is not doing its job either. We're going to replace all those parts while we are in there. For this installation, you'll need a jack and a jack stand, hammer, selection of punches, small pick, vice grips, needle nose pliers, and some sort of cutting tool.
I should mention before we get too far into the installation, this is pretty much a two-man job. You can do it yourself, but you are taking the door off a car, and the door is going to be rather heavy. Having an extra set of hands is going to make it a lot easier. Also, depending how nice your paint job is, you probably want to put some tape over the front edge here. Make sure you have rags for both the jack and the jack stand so under the door, it doesn't damage your paint.
Here you can see the pin and bushings on this car. This is your upper, and your lower is going to be down below, the exact same basic setup. If it is the original Ford pin, you will need a Dremel or some sort of a cutting tool because you will have to cut it in half and then break it apart. In the case of our ‘87, they were replaced at one point in time, which being that it is a 30 year old car is nothing unusual. These will have to be hammered out.
The first thing we will do is put some rags in your jack stand and support the outside of the door. If the door sags, which it should be if you are doing this installation, you want to lift the door up and get it as flat as possible so you are taking some weight off the pin to make it easier to get it out. What we are going to do is use the jack on the inside. Once we remove the pins, we're going to slowly slide the door away from the body. Like I said, ours has replacement pins in it, so these are simply going to have to be hammered out.
There should be a cotter pin holding the pin in place. Whoever replaced these last time either didn't do it or somewhere over time it fell out. Will go right into hammering this thing out of our way. The bottom pin does have the cotter pin. We are going to remove that first. Be careful because once you remove both pins, the door can slide off the hinges. Now we are going to take the door off the hinge. We'll just slide it outward. We are going to use the jack to help support it. This is the part where you definitely need an extra set of hands to help balance everything.
The bushings we are looking at are right here. They are on the door side of the hinge itself. One from the bottom, one from the top. We are going to hammer those out and replace them with new ones and work on the bottom next. I'm going to put a little grease in the holes first to make it easier to get the new bushings in place. We will start with the top one. It makes it easier to just to put it on the pin. We'll now do the same on the bottom. I'm going to do the check roller and the roller pin at the bottom here while we are out the same way. You need a small punch, and just hammer it out from the center.
I'm going to put some grease up in here to help get the other new check pin in place. We have the roller in place. I think I'm going to put a little bit of grease in here and install the lower bushings. Now I'm going to slide the door back on and connect the hinges together again. Another part we definitely need another extra set of hands to make your life a lot easier. We are going to start with the top pin. We will install a cotter pin once it's in place. We have the cotter pin in, and now we are going to move on to the bottom pin. Through here reinstall the cotter pin. We want to repeat the process on the other side, and your installation is finished.
We were going to show you the passenger side, but then we realized that it is actually the original bushings, hinge pins, and everything on this side. We are going to show you how to remove these rollers and show you the whole process since everything else is the same. We are going to show you how to cut out the original pins. We are ready to cut it off, but in our case we're going to use a Dremel, but anything sharp that can get in there as some sort of a rotary tool should be able to cut through it.
Both doors of our ‘87 coupe are now opening and closing like they're supposed to and sealed like they should be. To be perfectly honest, the bushings on our driver door were a little on the worn side, but probably could have benefited from an oversize bushing because of the wear. There is a little bit of movement still. This door came apart a lot easier than yours probably will at home. Expect to spend about an hour and half to two hours per door and be back on the road in no time.