Ford Performance Assembled Handling Pack for 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013 and 2014 Coupe GT Mustangs.
Ford Performance, formerly known as Ford Racing, introduces its assembled handling pack for your 2005-2014 Mustang GT. The assembled handling package includes pre-assembled struts. No spring compressor is required, the strut/spring assembly is ready to bolt-in! Put a little "road race" into your Mustang GT with Ford Performance's handling pack. It's tuned to deliver improved handling without sacrificing ride quality.
All components included in Ford Performance's handling kit are designed to work together as a complete package. The handling pack lowers your Mustang GT Coupe approximately 1" all around for better handling and a more streamlined look.
Assembled Handling Pack M-FR3A-MGTA Includes:
- Assembled Front Struts With Rear Shocks (M-18000-A)
- Lowering Springs (M-5300-P)
- Upgraded Front Strut Mounts (M-18183-C)
- Jounce Stops (M-5570-A)
- Sway Bar Kit (M-5490-A)
- Adjustable Rear Panhard Bar (M-4264-A)
- All Necessary Factory-Required One-Time Use Fasteners
*Requires alignment after installation.
*Some factory fasteners are one-time use. Please reference the service manual for reuse information and correct torque specifications.
If you're looking for parts for your 2005-2014 Mustang, you should start by browsing the several hundred Mustang parts that CJ Pony Parts offers from Ford Performance. By buying your Ford Performance parts from CJ Pony Parts, you know you're getting your Mustang parts from a reliable, reputable dealer, since CJ Pony Parts is a Top 10 Ford Racing Performance Dealer and has been for the last 10 years.
Purchase a Ford Performance M-FR3A-MGTA Assembled Handling Pack for your 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013 or 2014 Mustang GT Coupe from CJ Pony Parts today!
Product ReviewsWrite a review
do I need to get steeda ball joint and steeda bumsteer + this kit? or its enough? please help
Is there a way to get this kit with the ford racing "k"springs
Hi, do you have also this Kit for the 2011 GT Conv.? Thanks
Does the kit fit on my 2005 GT? On the top of the screen it says 2005-2014 but down at the bottom it says 2008- please let me know what is right . Thanks!
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This 2006 behind me is owned by friend Theresa who competes with me on the ride North America road race events. This car has seen a lot of miles, as well as few race tracks and stock suspension was starting to show it's age. She contacted me looking to do a complete suspension overhaul for this year's Smokey Mountain Rally. Today, we're going to solve Ford racing's handling pack on Theresa's 2006 Mustang GT.
While you can piece your suspension together from different manufacturers, a kit like this from Ford racing makes everything easy. Take all the guess work out of it for you. This is a complete suspension overhaul kit fitting your 2005, your 2014 Mustang GT coup. Starts with a set of four racing front straws come pre-assembled with a set of lowering springs and the GT 500 strut mounds. New set of rear shocks as well as rear lowering springs and [inaudible 00:01:03] pumpers are also included along with a pan hard bar to get the rear centered properly.
For racing tops at all with a brand new set of high performance front and rear end sway bars and all the necessary hardware for installation. For this installation, you need a lift and a pull jack or a jack and jack stands, 38th ratchet, 5 16th socket, 10 millimeter socket, 14 millimeter socket, 15 millimeter socket, 5 30 second allen key, T40 torques bit, short extension, 1/2 inch ratchet, 13 millimeter socket, 15 millimeter socket, 18 millimeter socket, 19 millimeter socket, 21 millimeter socket, 14 millimeter wrench, 18 millimeter wrench, 19 millimeter wrench, 22 millimeter wrench, an adjustable wrench, panel removal tool, and a small pick.
I'm going to begin the installation by getting the car up off the ground, remove all 4 wheels. After that, we're going to start with the front suspension. It honestly doesn't matter. We just find the front a little bit easier. First you want to do is remove 3 of the nuts that hold the strut to the strut tower. Remove 3 and just loose up the 4th. With the strut nuts removed, we're going to move on to the sway bar and take that off.
With the sway bar disconnected, next we're going to move the bolt back here for the brake line. Once that's free, also pop the tab off of the bottom here for the ABS line. Now we can move on to the strut bolts. We're going to put a jack in place now just to support the suspension before we take off the bolts. These 2 bolts here have these retainers here on the other side so you don't have to put a wrench on them. Just take the bolts out.
Now that our strut's free, remove the 1 nut up top we left loose. Remove the strut assembly. We're going to grab the new assembled Ford racing strut assembly. Put it up into place. Want to make sure this notch here on the outside. Get these tight now for now. Hold it loose.
Like I said, Ford provides all new hardware for the installation. The hardware for the front strut is a little bit different. You have this offset washer which will go on the bottom. This will go on the top and you'll use 2 more conventional style nuts.
The stock style hardware on the top is not going to be a problem but to get to the new style nut we're using for the bottom camber bolt, you have to remove the caliber to tighten it down. Put a dab of lock tight on each of these before we put the nuts on. Now we can re-install the caliber. We can reinstall the brake line and the ABS line. For now, we'll leave the sway bar disconnected since we're replacing it. Repeat the process on the passenger side. Now the strut's still supported. We're actually going to remove these nuts we used to hold it in place. Put a tab of lock tight on each one to tighten them back down.
We're going to support the rear suspension and begin the installation in the trunk. Remove the rear panels by simply removing all the clips and we're going to move the nut that holds the shock to the bottom. Now that the rear is supported we're going to move on to getting the sway bar out of the way. We need 2 nuts on each end and then 2 brackets in the middle. With the sway bar out of the way, now we can remove the lower mount for the shock. Now we put our new Ford racing spring up into place the original rubber mount.
Back into place and we can remove our bump stop and replace it with our new one. We'll put our new softer bump stop up into place and install it with our new hardware supplied with the kit. Put our new shock up into place. Again, Ford provides all new mounting hardware for both the top and the bottom of the shock. Now we can move into the trunk and tighten down the top. Now you want to jack it up into place. The shock goes in the top opening. Tighten it down. Make sure the bushing crush is down properly and repeat the process on the passenger side and we'll move on to the sway bars.
We're going to start the installation of the rear sway bars by grabbing the provided end links. Just put a little bit of grease on the outside facer before you put it up into place. Let's put it up here with this open end facing towards the back of the car with the bolt through and just put it hand tight for now. Then you want to do that on both sides then grab the rear sway bar. Now grab your rear sway bar itself. Take the rubber bushes that were included with the end links. We'll put some grease inside of these and split it and put it over the bar. Begin to spin it a couple of times to spread the grease around.
Ready to go put it on the car. Put some grease down inside the end links here. Put in the bar in place. You want to make sure the Ford is upright. To line up the end links, you're going to have to press them in. Get it roughly centered and we can install the caps. Put a little more grease on the pushing first and then grab the caps. Get them hand tight until you get both sides in place. Bushings for the end mounts. Same idea. Put some grease inside there. Put a little more grease on the outside here. This is greaseable. You can add grease later. The way this is going to mount, the plate's going to actually go up in here. You can add bracket will go down below and bolt together to sandwich the bushing in place.
Leave it hand tight for now and do the same thing on the other side. With everything loosely in place, now we can go back through it and tighten it down. With the rear sway bar done, we're going to move on to the panhard bar. The panhard bar's main job is to center your rear axle. The issue is when you lower the car, now it's going to actually push the axle off to the side so the adjustable allows us to re-center it. The bolts right back here are facing the axle. Pull down and remove it.
The new panhard bar is going to be adjustable but out of the box, what you want to do is adjust it where the stock length was. It's a great starting point. What I usually do is grab two bolts that we removed, put them through the stock one, and turn this and line it up so they're the same length. Once they're roughly even, we can tighten them down.
We want to put a little bit of grease on the surface of the bushing before we put the panhard up into place. With the rear suspension finished up, now we're going to finish up the front by removing the sway bar. It's pretty easy since we already have the end links off. There's 2 nuts on this side on this bracket and 2 more on this side. We're going to slide it back off the front studs and angle it up and out. With the sway bar off, we're going to remove both end links as they already used with the new bar. This sway bar is 3 way adjustable. As I said, pre-load, depending on what you're using the car for. Full back is going to be the firmest setting. Middle's going to be kind of a middle of the road. This will be the softer setting. We're going to go right in the middle.
Once all the bushings and bracket's on the sway bar before we put it back on the car. We're going to put some grease on the outside of the locating collar here. Push the bushing over. Spin it around a few times. Make sure you get the grease spreading evenly and then put the bracket on so you can install. Then we'll put the sway bar back up into place. Put the end link up over the a arm. The end link through, the nut back on, and tighten it down. Repeat the process on the other side and your installation's finished.
The Ford racing handling pack is perfect for somebody who's looking for a better quality suspension, more performance out of the ride but doesn't really want to sacrifice a lot of ride height. A lot of spring gets out of the drop. An inch and a half, 2 inches. The one inch drop for the Ford racing's a really nice combination for somebody who wants improved performance but, again, without sacrificing that ride height. I've been going a few of these rally's. Some of the roads we get are very sketchy so I'm actually doing the same thing, if you notice with my 2015. I went with a 1 inch drop because, again, for what I use the car for, that's better for me.
Instead of our usual test drive, we'll go find some twisty roads this time. Ride is firmer than it was before. Now, keep in mind, this car has almost 70,000 miles on it. The rear shocks have been replaced but everything else looked original. The factory stuff was probably on the softer side for sure. Except for that overly firm ride though, it's nice and tight. Feels real good in the corners. You point it and it goes.
Try braking. Yeah, it brakes nice and straight. Noticeably less dive as well, which is nice. Cornering is nice and flat. Getting a little throttle coming out, it stays even. Doesn't move around on you. The perfect suspension to take on a car that's going to be driven thousands of miles all over the country. When you find that right road, you really want to enjoy it.
The Ford racing and handling pack we installed on Theresa's 06 GT should really improve her experience at this year's rally. The springs provided a nice 1 inch drop. The shocks and struts can improve overall handling along with the sway bars. On a suspension kit like this, you do want to make sure you get an alignment before you do a lot of driving. Installation time be around 3 to 4 hours. She'll be back on the road in no time.