Ford Racing Multi-Port EFI Wiring Harness For 5.0L H.O. Engine Swap

Ford Racing: M-12071-A50
MSRP: $575.00
CJ's Low Price:
1448755200 23209
This Ford Racing Sensor and Relay Package is correct for the Multi-Port EFI Engine Wiring Harness.
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Ford Racing Multi-Port EFI Wiring Harness For 5.0L H.O. Engine Swap
Ford Racing

Product Description

Ford Racing Multi-Port EFI Wiring Harness for Mustangs with a 5.0L H.O. Engine Swap.

Need a new wiring harness for your Mustang with a 5.0L H.O.? Or perhaps you have a Hot Rod or other non-Mustang vehicle with a 5.0L H.O. engine and you need a wiring harness for it. Well, we have the ticket for you!

This is a complete harness from the PCM to the injectors. One of the most common requests regarding the Electronic Fuel Injection Wiring Harness has been for a cleaner appearing harness and a simpler method to make connections. Ford Racing has heard your voice! Ford Racing has tried to be as thorough as possible in developing a product which will provide you with the cleanest and simplest wiring harness on the market.

Features and Benefits:
- Revised for simplified installation; Now only a single connector is needed for all required connections
- Kit consists of a single harness with vital connections for injectors and O2 sensors
- Fully loomed, from PCM to all sensors and injectors, to save time on installation
- Usually takes less than an hour to install
- Direct fit on 1986-1993 302 H.O. engines
- Can be easily adapted to many other Ford V8 pushrod engines
- Compatible with engines using both H.O. and non-H.O. firing orders
- Provisions are included for electric fan control output
- Included is a compact fuse and relay box, "Check Engine" light, and all necessary grommets

Please Note: A PCM from a 1989-1993 5.0L H.O. Mustang is required, but NOT included.

If you're looking for parts for your 1964-2015 Mustang, you should start by looking at the more than 750 Mustang parts that CJ Pony Parts offers from Ford Racing. By buying your Ford Racing parts from CJ Pony Parts, you know you're getting your Mustang parts from a reliable, reputable dealer, since CJ Pony Parts is a Top 10 Ford Racing Dealer and has been for the last 10 years. When you buy your Ford Racing Mustang parts from CJ Pony Parts, you know you have a winning combination--this means dependable, quality care for your pony car.

Order a Ford Racing Multi-Port EFI Wiring Harness for your Mustang with a 5.0L H.O. Engine Swap from CJ Pony Parts today!

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Installation Instructions

Mustang Installation

Product Reviews

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Ford Racing Multi-Port EFI Wiring Harness For 5.0L H.O. Engine Swap is rated 5.0 out of 5 by 1.
Rated 5 out of 5 by from Basics to make the car run and nothing else Brand new Ford quality wiring harness, The install manual is very helpful and so is Roy at the Ford Racing Technical Support. They used almost all the original wire color markings so looking at the new harness the wires matched up well with my old harness. Gets rid of those nasty big salt and pepper 10 pin connectors. Very clean look and solid connections with no broke tabs. Remember to always disconnect your battery before starting. What is not included is the Low oil sender, Air bags and Charcoal Can Relay. Fords Idea was that this harness was made to go into any Rod and make it EFI that is if you can find a computer. But if you have a fox the wiring harness is very similar to our original harness. Its just missing the above mentioned items, no biggy being that I have a 7 qt. pan with no low oil sender and a non air bag steering wheel and the charcoal air can still breathes and I do not have it attached to my intake. The old a/c cut relay switch will be deleted, so will the ECC relay and fuel pump relay. They are now all located in the new black box. Cleaning up more wires under hood. I was able to reinstall the new harness into my old firewall grommet, just remove it, slice one half of it and put in the new harness and install. You will have to extend some wires and will have to reuse some of your old harness mainly the brown 8 pin circular connector that was located on the drivers side by the brake booster this will give connections to the 12v Start, 12v Start Run. and tie into your stock Tach, Oil pressure, and temp gauges. You can tie the wires into your aftermarket gauges but you will still need the 12v.start and start run feeds. All the wires are individual flagged nice, but you may want to write down every wire name in case you lose one of the flags. I built a new wiring harness using the new 12v. Start,12 RUN Start wires along with the tach wire. Ford supplies connections to your temp and oil pressure, but you need to extend them with your own supplied wire. Put these wires all together and shrunk wrapped, taped and connected them to my old 8 pin connector. I ran these wires out thru fire wall with the main harness and put on the 8 pin connector. All the supplied wires in the new harness are plenty long. You need to relocate the inertia switch near the kick panel pass side, because the inertia cable is short I mounted mine on the frame of the center console. the end connector plugged right into the inertia switch. Just remember when you remove it from the trunk you have to jumper the wires or you will not get power to the fuel pump great place to tie in a kill switch to stop those thieves. I mounted the black fuse/relay box on my cabin filter box. see pics. They do not give much wire to the 60 pin connector and there is not many other places to mount it. You will need to use there Check Engine Light and mount it some where. May be you could tie into your existing light, I just used there supplied light. This is spelled out in the manual. As the Black box unit and car will not work if you do not. My clutch safety switch still works. Cruise still works, Next when you tie into the DG/Y fuel pump power wire in one of the green square connectors near the computer area, it bypasses the relay under the seat, and goes to the fuel pump, no need to splice into anything under the seat, just remove the relay, this will disconnect your feed from the battery. The power is supplied from the fuel relay in the black box. The new OBD1 port is located in the kick panel as seen in my picture. Make sure you solder all your connections shrink wrap and tape everything There is 2 grounds or negatives 1 goes to the battery and the other goes to the ground screw on the frame by the pass. side kick panel. I connected both my negatives directly to the battery. I did not want any flaky grounds. Keep all your existing grounds like the one going from the motor to the firewall and by the windshield washer on the fender, and of course the negative going from the battery to the motor. My method of connection was to tin the wires and stripped the plastic off butt splices filled them with flux, crimped the tinned wires and soldered the at each end from butt splice to wire. For soldered, crimped, and soldered termination. I shrunk wrapped the connections and used a oversized shrink wrap over all the connections. There is only 1 power connection and that should be tied to a 50 amp fuse. The only real problem I had was pin 19 (Keep Alive Memory) in the 60 pin connector was not fully seated in the harness and was not making a good connection to the computer. My car may differ from yours and good luck. Remember protect your computer there are not many left. This worked for me but maybe not for you. Good Luck!
Date published: 2015-10-19
  • 2015-11-29T08:30CST
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Product Questions


My harness (ford racing) has a fuse box, and when the ignition is  switched on the green lights cycle in the fuse box, now the one listed a/c has no power and the fuel pump does not cycle and no spark. what is the a/c mean , car has no ac installed ???

Asked by: BIGEZ
It sounds like you back fed the circuit from the existing fuel pump relay, I disconnected mine just by pulling the relay apart, the original fuel pump relay is fed from the starter relay and you need to get the power from your FCRM/black box. also did you hook up your inertia switch and did you tie the wires together in the trunk where the inertia switch use to be. Lastly if you did back feed the black box/FCRM check your fuses in the unit. Read my post and this may help you with how to wire up everything. NANotch
Answered by: NANotch
Date published: 2015-10-21

Does this harness eliminate EGR ,air pump., other emissions stuff?  My engine has MAP -- No mass air on my engine . Will my EEC work .eliminating emission?  

Asked by: Honest Art
There are provisions for the EGR, No wiring for the smog pump, It does have mass air, bap sensor, two O2 sensors, TPS, ACT, Temp sensor and temp gauge and oil pressure. The only emission's is the EGR but everything else is needed for a Mass Air/ EFI car to run.
Answered by: NANotch
Date published: 2015-10-21

Does this have the fuel pump relay in the harness?

Asked by: EdwardD
Yes , it is built in the black box along with the ECC relay and A/C cutout relay.
Answered by: NANotch
Date published: 2015-10-21

I am putting my 302 ho efi out of a 93 f150 into a ratrod project. Is this harness what I need to make the engine run? And what other harness will I need if any for accessories. Thanks

Asked by: Jimmyrat
Yes, this harness is what you need. You'll also need a PCM. Any accessory harness(es) will be dependent on what accessories you're running.
Answered by: CJ Pony Parts
Date published: 2015-09-21

Is it compatible with mass air flow cars

Asked by: eldiablorojo
Yes, this is for use with the computer from a mass air car.
Answered by: Rick CJs
Date published: 2015-08-15
  • 2015-11-29T08:35CST
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