Fuel Tank 22 Gallon 1970

CJ's Part Number: FT4

Regular Price: $109.99

Special Price: $98.99

1490572800 15739
Earn 98 RPM Points What's this?
1490054400 1490918400
On Sale: Up to 30% Off Sale!
Fuel Tank 22 Gallon 1970
Fuel Tank 22 Gallon 1970 Fuel Tank 22 Gallon 1970 Fuel Tank 22 Gallon 1970 Fuel Tank 22 Gallon 1970 Play Fuel Tank 22 Gallon 1970 Video 1 Play Fuel Tank 22 Gallon 1970 Video 2

Product Description

22-Gallon Fuel Tank for all 1970 Mustangs.

Gas prices are a lot higher these days than they were throughout the '70s. So if you're fixing up a 1970 Mustang, or if you just need to replace the fuel tank, then this 22-Gallon Fuel Tank is a great choice! It's a direct fit replacement for your stock fuel tank, and it won't rust or corrode.

Features & Benefits:
- Direct Fit Replacement for the Stock Fuel Tank in 1970 Mustangs
- Has a Larger Fuel Capacity: 22 Gallons
- Specially Coated to Prevent Rust and Corrosion
- Measures 32-5/8" x 24-1/2" x 9-3/4"
- Includes a New Drain Plug

This 22-Gallon Fuel Tank is specially coated to help protect against rust and corrosion, so you'll never have to worry that your gas tank has a hole in it and is leaking out precious (and pricey) gasoline! Measuring in at 34-5/8" x 24-1/2" x 9-3/4", this tank has the correct, larger fuel capacity than most other Mustang fuel tanks on the market these days: an impressive 22 gallons! Your order will also include a new drain plug.

If your Mustang's tank is in poor condition, with dents, rust or even holes, you might be just throwing money away on fuel, which can get very expensive at these prices. Protect your precious fuel by making sure your Mustang's fuel tank area is in perfect order. CJ Pony Parts offers many parts allowing you to replace the tank and all its parts!

Order a 22-Gallon Fuel Tank for your 1970 Mustang from CJ Pony Parts today!

Similar Mustang Parts

similar Mustang parts More Fuel Tanks  

Installation Instructions

Mustang Installation

Mustang Applications

This product will fit the following Mustang years:

Product Reviews

Write a review
  • bvseo_sdk, p_sdk, 3.2.0
  • CLOUD, getContent, 193.56ms
  • bvseo-msg: HTTP status code of 404 was returned;

Product Questions

gas tank relocation 1948 f1 can one of these tanks be mounted under the bed. and if so where would the fuel fill wind up.

Asked by: fosterfirefly
The tail end frame needs to be shaved about 1/2" on each side, just enough to widen the space for the tank to slide in. Easy if you have a plasma cutter. And a frame brace needs to be relocated. Routing the fuel fill is a challenge. You can use a boat filler door and mount it on the floor of the bed, or you can use the gasket and neck out of the mid 90s Mustangs. You cut a 2"+ hole in the top of the tank for the gasket and then fabricate a neck that will route out to a filler door grafted into the rear fender. But it looks great if you do it right.
Answered by: wavetrain75
Date published: 2017-03-11

What are the differences between the ft4 and the xft4 tanks?

Asked by: Pops2tone
Yes it will work on the 53 56 f100 with some minor modifying  I put this tank in my 1954 f-100 and my gas fill tube goes to the rear fender
Answered by: M calla
Date published: 2016-10-02

will this tank be a direct fit for a '67 mustang?

Asked by: shouldbgolfing
We offer this kit, http://www.cjponyparts.com/fuel-tank-conversion-kit-22-gallon-premium-1967-1968/p/XFTK16/, I strongly recommend reading the product description for installation tips.
Answered by: rk cjpp
Date published: 2016-06-22

Can I use this tank to go under the bed on a 1956 ford f100?

Asked by: DRANO
We have never test fitted this tank to a 56 f100 so I would not know.
Answered by: rk cjpp
Date published: 2016-09-24

will this fit a maverick?

Asked by: howiej
Most likely not.
Answered by: CJ Pony Parts
Date published: 2017-01-27

Will this work for a 1970 ford Torino?

Asked by: tamaranichole
Most likely not.
Answered by: CJ Pony Parts
Date published: 2017-01-27


Asked by: MOHR
Unsure, but most likely not. It's designed and tested for Mustangs and, since a Maverick is going to have a different fitment, it most likely won't work.
Answered by: CJ Pony Parts
Date published: 2015-05-01

looking for fuel tank for 70 cougar with 351 cleveland four barrel will this tank work

Asked by: jcautowrks
Mustang and Cougar use the same tank, so yes, it will work.
Answered by: CJ Pony Parts
Date published: 2015-03-19
  • y_2017, m_3, d_26, h_23CST
  • bvseo_bulk, prod_bvqa, vn_bulk_1.0.0
  • cp_1, bvpage1
  • co_hasquestionsanswers, tq_8
  • loc_en_US, sid_FT4, prod, sort_[SortEntry(order=LAST_APPROVED_ANSWER_SUBMISSION_TIME, direction=DESCENDING)]
  • clientName_cjponyparts
  • bvseo_sdk, p_sdk, 3.2.0
  • CLOUD, getContent, 12.76ms

You Might Also Like

Product Video

Fuel Tank 22 Gallon 1970 Video Transcript
By Bill Tumas: There's nothing worse than spending 60 bucks to fill up your tank, only to find gas dripping out from underneath your car. With the cost of fuel these days, there is no better time to replace that rusted, leaking tank. Today we're going to show you how to install a new tank using this '66 Mustang Convertible.

This is our standard fuel tank kit for the '65 through '68 Mustang. It includes the tank, sending unit with the correct brass float, mounting hardware, filler hose and the filler pipe gasket.

For this installation you will need a flat blade screwdriver, Philips screwdriver, hammer, 3/8-inch ratchet, 1/2-inch socket, 3/8-inch socket, 1/4-inch ratchet, 7/16-inch socket, 5/16-inch socket, short extension, wire cutters, pry bar, 3/8-inch open-end wrench, scraper, safety glasses and a lift or jack and jack stands.

As you can see, the tank in our '66 has a nice big dent in it. It's due for replacement. The first step is going to be to drain the fuel. There is a couple ways you can do this. Drain it either from your sending unit, or if the tank has a drain, you'll want to use that. The best way to drain it? Take your car for a drive. If it's not drivable, either one of these ways will work.

The last step before removing the fuel tank from above is to disconnect the sending unit. You're going to pull the sending unit wire off the stud and then you'll want to disconnect the hose. We have the original stock crimp-clamps, which are one-time only and so you'll want to cut that off. Keep your pan handy as you may still have a little fuel come out of it. Now, we are ready to move inside the trunk. After you drain the tank, you'll want to clear your trunk out and remove the bolts that are holding the tank in place. Now, we're going to loosen the two screws the hold the filler pipe seal to the tank and to the filler pipe.

Now, we're going to disconnect our filler pipe. To remove the filler pipe you have to take the gas cap off. There are four bolts in the front here and there is on the back that we have to get off first. You'll want to pull the filler hose off the tank by twisting the whole assembly. Twist the hose off the pipe and pull out your filler. You'll be reusing the filler tube with your new tank. We include a new hose and also a new gasket so you can throw both of those away. Now, we are ready to remove the tank from the car itself.

Even though the hardware is removed there is still some seal holding it in place. We're going to start with a pry bar and see if we can get it loose. If you have trouble getting it off with a pry bar, a jack underneath the car forcing it up will usually do the trick as well. We are going to be installing new sealant with the new tank and so we want to get the surface as clean as possible and scrape off the old excess sealant. Once you've finished cleaning the original sealant off the trunk you will probably have a couple areas that are bare metal. We recommend a coat of primer before you install the new tank. Once you're finished with the primer, it usually only takes about 5-10 minutes to set up and then we can get in to installing our tank. I will put some strip caulk around the outside edge before we install the new tank. This will replicate the OEM caulking. Make sure not to leave any gaps in the corners; you want to seal all the way around. Before the tank goes back in the car, you want to test your sending unit; whether it's the original or a new one, you will still need to test it before you put it on the car.

You will use your multimeter set on ohms to test your sending unit. You want to ground it anywhere on the chassis, push the positive to the stud. You should see somewhere between 70 and 80 ohms, which is empty. As the flow goes up, that number is going to decrease, getting roughly to 8-10 by the time the tank would be full. As you can see, our sending unit is working properly.

Once you have tested your sending unit and you know it's good, we are ready to install it. The first step is to install this ring. There is a groove that it goes in to. I will put the float in at an angle first and make sure that the stud is at the bottom and put the ring on. I get about _ turn by hand. I will use a hammer to push it on the rest of the way. If you are ever working with a sending unit that has fuel involved, you'll want to use a brass punch. Since everything is new here a flathead screwdriver and hammer will work fine. Now, we're ready to install our tank.

The tank is going to go in the same way the old one came out. Line up the holes and grab our new hardware. Right now, we're going to put the fuel filler hose on. It goes over the tank. Slide it down and put the clamp on, but we're not going to tighten it down just yet. Put another one over here. Now we will install the fuel filler pipe. The new gasket comes with it, so make sure that you put it on before you put the pipe in. Once you install the filler pipe, your hose plants in place and we will tighten them back down. Now, we will reinstall our gas cap. Line the gasket up with the holes. The last step is to connect the sending unit. Make sure that you grab a new hose clamp to replace the one we took off. Now, our installation is finished. Once you're finished with the install you'll want to put some fresh fuel in the tank and check everything for leaks before you take it for a test drive. Installation should only take you for about an hour so you'll be back on the road in no time.