Fuel Tank Sending Unit 1965-1968

CJ's Part Number: FSU1
MSRP: $39.95

Regular Price: $32.99

Special Price: $23.09

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Fuel Tank Sending Unit 1965-1968
Fuel Tank Sending Unit 1965-1968 Fuel Tank Sending Unit 1965-1968 Fuel Tank Sending Unit 1965-1968 Fuel Tank Sending Unit 1965-1968 Play Fuel Tank Sending Unit 1965-1968 Video 1 Play Fuel Tank Sending Unit 1965-1968 Video 2

Product Description

Fuel Tank Sending Unit for all 1965, 1966, 1967 and 1968 Mustangs.

Are you looking to replace your faulty fuel sending unit in your 1965-1968 Mustang? If so you might be interested in this high quality Fuel Tank Sending Unit with a Foam Float. This Fuel Sending Unit is a direct replacement for all 1965-1968 Mustangs with the stock style fuel tank. The main body of the fuel sending unit is constructed from high quality stainless steel.

Since this Fuel Sending unit is designed to be installed inside the tank a ceramic circuit board is installed. The board will not corrode in ethanol and is resistant to sludge build up from old fuel in the tank. At the end of the tube a sock filter is installed this helps clean the fuel preventing it from clogging up the fuel lines with debris. The float is constructed from bass that features foam. The foam float is used to eliminate leaking forever.

Fuel Tank Sending Unit Features and Benefits:
- Fits all 1965-1968 Mustangs
- 3/8" Outlet Tube
- Stainless Steel Construction
- Foam Float
- Rheostat Ceramic Circuit Board
- Includes Rubber Gasket
- Mounting Hardware for Low Fuel Wire

Please Note: This Fuel Sending Unit does NOT include the Retaining Ring.

Whether you’re looking for an exterior mirror, wheels and tires, headlights and taillights or a set of interior upholstery, CJ’s has the parts you need to complete your classic Mustang restoration with ease! CJ’s has the parts you need to bring your early model Mustang build back to life--browse our huge selection of restoration parts for your pony today!

Purchase a new Fuel Tank Sending Unit for your 1965, 1966, 1967 or 1968 Mustang from CJ Pony Parts today!

Similar Mustang Parts

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Installation Instructions

Mustang Installation

Mustang Applications

This product will fit the following Mustang years:

Product Reviews

Write a review
Fuel Tank Sending Unit 1965-1968 is rated 4.6 out of 5 by 21.
Rated 5 out of 5 by from fuel tank and sending unit replacement I have a 65 mustang and know a little bit about cars and such and can usually trouble shoot and figure what ever it is out that I need but you guys are AWESOME. I just cleaned out about 30 pounds of rat, squirel and whatever else pooo out of the car and it is ready for the next step. watching your videos tells me just what I have to do on a specific install. THANK YOU SO MUCH. I am glad I found you web site for my pony parts.
Date published: 2016-06-07
Rated 5 out of 5 by from Better float A couple of years ago I bought the tank and sender kit FTK5 for my restore project. I as well as others experienced a failure of the float because it is plastic and after a while in gasoline it cracked and leaked. A float that is full of gas doesn't work. I could have saved some money and just got a brass float FSUF but I ordered the whole sending unit kit when I came to the conclusion I had a sending unit problem.
Date published: 2016-04-06
Rated 5 out of 5 by from Great for Fairmont swap!!! Used this sending unit to replace a rusted out Fairmont unit I had. It even has a 3/8 line instead of the 5/16 mine had. Everything was just about the same except for the angle of the supply line which was a little off, but I'm running new line anyway so no problem.
Date published: 2016-07-26
Rated 5 out of 5 by from High quality, great fit, just like OE Happy I bought this, I was tired of keeping track of the miles cause the gas gauge di not work. This was an easy fix.
Date published: 2015-11-04
Rated 5 out of 5 by from Worked great. Was a little hesitant after reading others comments but it worked out fine. Installed easily, was reasonably priced. I'm Happy.
Date published: 2015-09-15
Rated 4 out of 5 by from Replacement sending unit The sending unit itself appears to work fine, but the gasket is junk. Mine was nothing more than a rubber band, thick on one side and thin on the other. Fortunately, I've done enough cars that I had an extra in my spare parts. Check the gasket carefully before you install!
Date published: 2016-09-01
Rated 5 out of 5 by from Great part I purchased this sending unit for my 1980 Fairmont. The opening in the Fairmont gas tank is the same as this mustang sending unit. The sending unit is not available for a early 1980 fox so if you need one this is your part!!
Date published: 2017-02-19
Rated 3 out of 5 by from not so good worked for an hour. I had to remove sender and use zip ties to attach the sender to the pick up tube. other then that it works great. I did not use the supplied gasket ater reading other reiews
Date published: 2016-09-02
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Product Questions

I have a 20 gal. pony parts fuel tank 69 mustang and need sending unit

Asked by: bertybear41
Check out P/N: FSU2
Answered by: CJPP Dave
Date published: 2016-11-09

is this sender adjustable? i put one in but it seems to only read half the tank. it goes all the way to full when i fill up but then it is on empty after only using about a half of tank of gas.

Asked by: ghhs1973
It is not adjustable, the arm that holds the float may be bent or its defective.
Answered by: rk cjpp
Date published: 2016-11-09

I have a 68 cougar with a 3 pin harnes for a low fuel warning light do you guys make a sending unit for this. 

Asked by: Meterman
The only thing we have available is the sensor,http://www.cjponyparts.com/low-fuel-warning-sensor-1967-1973/p/FSU44/
Answered by: rk cjpp
Date published: 2016-07-22

can i get just a new seal for sending unit i do not nead the whole unit

Asked by: fireman130
Here is the link for the seal, http://www.cjponyparts.com/cpc-fuel-sending-unit-gasket-1965-1997/p/FSUG/
Answered by: rk cjpp
Date published: 2016-11-09

Will this sender need adjusting or is it fairly accurate out of the box?

Asked by: Ricky68
There is no adjustment needed, they are going to be more accurate then they originally were in the 1960s.
Answered by: Rick CJs
Date published: 2016-11-09

what is the difference in this and the scott drake?

Asked by: jimenator
The Scott Drake is the premium version.
Answered by: rk cjpp
Date published: 2016-04-11

will this sending unit also replace the one for 1967 Rambler American Rogue

Asked by: welumley
The vendor has not provided any information regarding cross-fitments of this part to any other model then what is listed.
Answered by: rk cjpp
Date published: 2016-11-09

did 64 1/2 with a 170 6 cyl. come with 5/16 or 3/8 fuel tank unit?

Asked by: philstangs
Answered by: MustangMatt
Date published: 2017-02-28
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Product Video

Fuel Tank Sending Unit 1965-1968 Video Transcript
By Bill Tumas: There's nothing worse than spending 60 bucks to fill up your tank, only to find gas dripping out from underneath your car. With the cost of fuel these days, there is no better time to replace that rusted, leaking tank. Today we're going to show you how to install a new tank using this '66 Mustang Convertible.

This is our standard fuel tank kit for the '65 through '68 Mustang. It includes the tank, sending unit with the correct brass float, mounting hardware, filler hose and the filler pipe gasket.

For this installation you will need a flat blade screwdriver, Philips screwdriver, hammer, 3/8-inch ratchet, 1/2-inch socket, 3/8-inch socket, 1/4-inch ratchet, 7/16-inch socket, 5/16-inch socket, short extension, wire cutters, pry bar, 3/8-inch open-end wrench, scraper, safety glasses and a lift or jack and jack stands.

As you can see, the tank in our '66 has a nice big dent in it. It's due for replacement. The first step is going to be to drain the fuel. There is a couple ways you can do this. Drain it either from your sending unit, or if the tank has a drain, you'll want to use that. The best way to drain it? Take your car for a drive. If it's not drivable, either one of these ways will work.

The last step before removing the fuel tank from above is to disconnect the sending unit. You're going to pull the sending unit wire off the stud and then you'll want to disconnect the hose. We have the original stock crimp-clamps, which are one-time only and so you'll want to cut that off. Keep your pan handy as you may still have a little fuel come out of it. Now, we are ready to move inside the trunk. After you drain the tank, you'll want to clear your trunk out and remove the bolts that are holding the tank in place. Now, we're going to loosen the two screws the hold the filler pipe seal to the tank and to the filler pipe.

Now, we're going to disconnect our filler pipe. To remove the filler pipe you have to take the gas cap off. There are four bolts in the front here and there is on the back that we have to get off first. You'll want to pull the filler hose off the tank by twisting the whole assembly. Twist the hose off the pipe and pull out your filler. You'll be reusing the filler tube with your new tank. We include a new hose and also a new gasket so you can throw both of those away. Now, we are ready to remove the tank from the car itself.

Even though the hardware is removed there is still some seal holding it in place. We're going to start with a pry bar and see if we can get it loose. If you have trouble getting it off with a pry bar, a jack underneath the car forcing it up will usually do the trick as well. We are going to be installing new sealant with the new tank and so we want to get the surface as clean as possible and scrape off the old excess sealant. Once you've finished cleaning the original sealant off the trunk you will probably have a couple areas that are bare metal. We recommend a coat of primer before you install the new tank. Once you're finished with the primer, it usually only takes about 5-10 minutes to set up and then we can get in to installing our tank. I will put some strip caulk around the outside edge before we install the new tank. This will replicate the OEM caulking. Make sure not to leave any gaps in the corners; you want to seal all the way around. Before the tank goes back in the car, you want to test your sending unit; whether it's the original or a new one, you will still need to test it before you put it on the car.

You will use your multimeter set on ohms to test your sending unit. You want to ground it anywhere on the chassis, push the positive to the stud. You should see somewhere between 70 and 80 ohms, which is empty. As the flow goes up, that number is going to decrease, getting roughly to 8-10 by the time the tank would be full. As you can see, our sending unit is working properly.

Once you have tested your sending unit and you know it's good, we are ready to install it. The first step is to install this ring. There is a groove that it goes in to. I will put the float in at an angle first and make sure that the stud is at the bottom and put the ring on. I get about _ turn by hand. I will use a hammer to push it on the rest of the way. If you are ever working with a sending unit that has fuel involved, you'll want to use a brass punch. Since everything is new here a flathead screwdriver and hammer will work fine. Now, we're ready to install our tank.

The tank is going to go in the same way the old one came out. Line up the holes and grab our new hardware. Right now, we're going to put the fuel filler hose on. It goes over the tank. Slide it down and put the clamp on, but we're not going to tighten it down just yet. Put another one over here. Now we will install the fuel filler pipe. The new gasket comes with it, so make sure that you put it on before you put the pipe in. Once you install the filler pipe, your hose plants in place and we will tighten them back down. Now, we will reinstall our gas cap. Line the gasket up with the holes. The last step is to connect the sending unit. Make sure that you grab a new hose clamp to replace the one we took off. Now, our installation is finished. Once you're finished with the install you'll want to put some fresh fuel in the tank and check everything for leaks before you take it for a test drive. Installation should only take you for about an hour so you'll be back on the road in no time.