Set of Hawk Performance Ceramic Front Brake Pads for all 2013, 2014, 2015 and 2016 Focus STs.
If you want some new brake pads that will give your Focus ST a whole new level of stopping power, look no further than this set of Hawk Performance Ceramic Front Brake Pads for all 2013-2016 Focus STs. This ceramic brake pad formula has a linear friction profile that permits your ABS system to work more effectively. Engineered and designed to reduce brake NVH, this ultra high-quality Performance Ceramic will produce a much quieter, ultra-low dust creating, super low noise brake pad. Pick yours up from CJ Pony Parts and feel the difference and benefits today!
- Increases Stopping Power
- Extremely Quiet
- Increases Rotor Life
- Extended Pad Life
- Ultra-Low Dust Creation
- Stable Friction Output
- Intended for Luxury Cars, Sport Trucks and SUVs with Light Towing and Hauling Duty
- Engineered to Reduce Brake NVH
If you like driving your 2013-2016 Focus ST fast and energetically, you are going to need brakes that can safely stop you from those speeds as well. This Set of Hawk Performance Ceramic Front Brake Pads provides for steady consistent friction output and contact that will create less dust and provide significantly increased stopping power. This rotor-friendly pad increases the pad life as well as the life of the front rotors.
One of the most unnerving things to hear is the vibration and noise during braking in your vehicle. This high quality Performance Ceramic compound that Hawk uses, reduces brake noise, vibration and harshness (NVH) creating a much quieter performing brake pad system. With most ST’s using premium alloy wheels these days, the ultra-low dust production is a very welcome benefit of these great new brake pads as well. These pads are designed and used in luxury SUV’s, sport trucks and vans, so you know they will do a great job, quietly, efficiently and quickly stopping your 2013, 2014, 2015 or 2016 Focus ST! Pick up your set of Hawk Performance Ceramic Front Brake Pads from CJ Pony Parts today and you’ll see why so many are singing the praises of these great new pads!
*Please Note: Properly bedding-in new brake pads results in a transfer film being generated at the pad and rotor interface, this helps to maximize brake performance. So be sure to do so safely, before regular use!
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For this installation, a lift or a jack and jack stands, 3/8 ratchet, 14mm socket, 13mm socket, 7mm Allen key, small pry bar and a caliper compression tool.
We are going to start by getting the car up in the air and removing all four wheels. If you have access to a lift or jack stands, it's best to take all four wheels off to start. You do one wheel at a time. You do the front individually, but in the back you will have to pull both wheels and we will explain why later.
You are going to start by removing the caliper. To get the caliper off the caliper bracket, you have to remove the bolts. You're going to start with taking off these little plastic covers. One on the top and one on the bottom. Once you have the covers off, you can remove the bolts underneath. Just get them loose and they will actually stay in their rubber sleeves.
Once we get the old pads off and put the new pads on, you have to compress the caliper to be able to get it to fit over the rotor. If you have a caliper compression tool, you definitely want to use it here or a large set of pliers. If you don't, get a small pry bar and actually put it in the caliper on the old pad and use that to compress the piston. Before you can remove the caliper, you have to remove the tension spring from the front. Just pry from underneath and hold the top edge and it will pop off. We are going to put a little bit of the supplied grease on the new pads before we install them on our caliper. On the back and in the edges where they slide.
Now you can remove the caliper. You want to make sure you hold onto the caliper. You don't want to leave it hanging by the brake hose as that can damage the hose. This one can be tight, so sometimes you have to tap it with a hammer or pry bar to get it off. Make sure you get all 3 pins seated. Get them hand-tight and started so they don't come out and then you can tighten them back up. Once the caliper is tightened down, you can reinstall the two plugs you removed. Then reinstall the spring in the front. Then we can move onto the rears.
The rear calipers remove the same way as the fronts with two bolts underneath these two plastic covers. The problem with the rear is that to get to the bolt, the sway bar is actually in the way. That's why I mentioned that you'd want to remove both rear wheels at the same time. You remove the endings for the sway bar and push the sway bar down so you can access the lower bolt.
Repeat the process on the other side. Once you have that down, now you can push the sway bar down and be able to access that bolt. Same as before, remove the plastic covers. Just like in the front, you have to remove the retaining spring. Now remove the caliper using a pry bar or small hammer to help you get the rear one off since it usually is tighter. In the rear, you have the parking brake cables well so you can let it hang, you're not going to hurt anything. For the rear, we are going to use our piston compression tool to compress this piston in. You don't need an expensive tool to do this. A lot of auto parts places rent a tool. Those are very expensive little block that fits in here. They can turn it with a 3/8 ratchet and it will thread it right in. Now we can remove our stock pads. The rears usually come off pretty easily. Put a little of the installed grease on the sliders and put the new pads up into place. Slide the caliper over and then you can get the bolts started and then we can tighten them up. You can reinstall the spring on the front and then reinstall the caps for the bolts. Now reinstall the hardware you removed on both sides for the sway bar.
Once you have the sway bar reattached, you can reinstall the wheels on your car and installation is finished. After that though, you'll want to make sure you burnish the brake pads before you do any kind of heavy driving. Once we get our wheels back on the car, we will explain how to do that.
Once you start the car up, you'll want to pump the brakes a few times until you get your pedal back. Then for burnishing the pads, what you're going to do is do 0-30/35 6-7 times in a row with moderate braking. Once you do that, then do the same thing 0-40/45 with really hard braking again 3-4 times on that. Once you're done doing that, let the brakes sit for about 15 minutes and then you're ready to go.