Pair of Single Color LED Halo Halogen Headlights for all 1965-1968 and 1970-1973 Mustangs.If you're looking for a way to stand out from the crowd at your local Sunday cruise-in or car show, these LED Halo Headlights are the perfect addition to your early model Mustang!
These headlights not only look great, but will provide greater visibility, typically 50% brighter than stock. The headlights feature a Euro Style Diamond-cut reflective base with a Diamond Crystal glass lens with a Halo/Angel Eye LED SMD Ring and include standard size H4 bulbs that look blue, but illuminate as an ultra white color.
The Halo ring uses 42 low temperature SMD LED bulbs, some of the brightest available. Typical life span is around 100,000 hours. The LED Halo can instantly and immediately turn on, no warm up time required!
Each headlight includes a ceramic tip pigtail harness that will protect your factory wiring from hotter H4 bulbs like Xenon. As well as a dust boot that fits over the back of the H4 bulb and creates a water tight seal. Universal installation instructions are also included, but are not Mustang specific.
Installation Tip from CJ Pony Service: Connecting the Halo lights to the parking lights on a 1965-1968 Mustang allows the Halos to be turned on and off with the headlight switch. The first location on the headlight switch turns on the parking lights(and Halos) then the second location turns on the headlights and turns off the parking lights(and Halos).
*Minor trimming of the factory headlight bowls may be required, enlarging the center hole on the headlight bowl will allow the bulb to properly sit in the bowl.
*These are standard size 7" headlight bulbs, most vehicles from 1936-1979 used 7" headlight bulbs which these can replace.
*Will not fit 1969 Mustangs.
Love that any h4 halogen bulb can be used. I highly suggest running new headlight wires and making a new harness and just using the old wires as a trigger via a relay. If you dont understand what I mean there is plenty of information out there to search. The reason why you run all new wiring is to take a load off the old wiring because the new h4 draw more power. It really is easy to do.
Now, the LED's ...they look great and I suggest wiring them with also all new wiring and triggering the neutral safety swith via a relay and set them up as always on version of daytime running lights....you cant burn them out, and they draw next to nothing so there is no downside.
The only con I can come up with is the LED wires are very very small...I highly suggest shrouding theem in two layers of shrink wrap and to also add a 2 pole connector at the end which IMHO should have been included.
Again the video shows this system as being a lot more "plug and play" than it really is. Take the time to treat your old car to new wires and use relays and these will last the rest of our old cars life...
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There's also two different versions available: The original, which is a 42 LED white light, as well as a 21 LED multi-color, which can be controlled with a remote control that's included with the lights. All of our Halo Headlights are assembled in the USA using a diamond-cut glass front.
They come with a removable H4 bulb that will plug into your stock wiring. The H4 bulb is going to be approximately 50% brighter than your original sealed beam headlights. Not only is it a cosmetic upgrade, they are also a safety upgrade.
We mocked up the '70 headlight bucket to show you what the LED headlight actually looks like when it's installed. It mounts in the original location as we discussed before, using the original headlight plug. The LEDs include two separate wires which would typically run to your parking lights. That will run the LEDs as a daytime running light by just turning on your parking light switch.
We hooked up a 12 volt battery so we could demonstrate the brightness of the LED. The white LEDs has been legal for most uses, but you want to check with your state just to make sure they're not illegal.
The multicolor LEDs are illegal for road use and are for off-road use or for show use only. The multicolor does include a while light for street use, but any other colors are strictly are forbidden on the highway.
Since we showed you the white LED mocked up on our '70 headlight bucket, we're actually going to install the multicolor LED halos into our '67 Mustang. The multi-colors come with a few more parts. The white halos are a simple two wire install.
The multi-colors are going to include: the lights, two ceramic extensions, the remote control, as we showed before, and the control box with wiring. This is the control box unit for the multicolored lights.
The box itself is not waterproof so you want to make sure you install it inside your vehicle so you have no issues, and with the IR sight in line, so the remote can see it. The harness here is going to go out to each individual headlight while this harness here must be hooked up to powering ground. For this installation, you'll need a Philip's head screw driver, a crimping tool, a solder connector or a soldering iron, a wire stripper, and some zip ties.
Here we are with our '67 Mustang out in the shop. The first part of the installation is to remove the existing headlights. Step one is to remove the trim ring, which is held on by three Philip's head screws.
Now, you want to remove the trim ring which holds the headlight itself in place. The trim ring is held in place by three screws, two in each in the bottom, one on the top. You do not have to remove the screws all the way. Just loosen them enough and you can turn the trim ring and remove it.
At this point, your headlight is no longer attached to the car. Simply pull it out, reach behind it, remove the plug and set it aside. We're in the interior of the '67 Mustang now to do the wiring.
Remove the gauge cluster in advance to make it easier to get to the wiring. If you've never removed the gauge cluster, it's fairly simple. It's held in place by three screws across the top of the cluster, one screw on the side, two underneath these gauges, and a speed nut that's behind the radio.
There's four screws holding the radio. You can simply remove the bezel, access the back of the cluster and remove the cluster. We started the installation of the box by hooking up the powering ground. The ground is simply ground to the chassis.
The power wire can be installed several different locations. In the case of our '67, there's an extra wire for the fog lights which is not used on this vehicle where we're able to get the 12-volt source. From '64 to '73, that wire is going to differ. You want to find a wire that has 12-volt power when your lights are on.
That way, the halos will turn on at the same time the headlights do. You want your LED eye visible so you can aim the remote at it to address the on off of light as well as change of color and change brightness. We mounted ours in the far corner of the dashboard here so you can actually use a remote inside or outside the vehicle if you want to adjust the lights.
We connect this to the 12-volt power and now ready to fish the wire forward into the engine compartment. The control box is very lightweight. It comes with two holes where you could screw them in place if you wanted to, but since it's light, we're simply going to zip tie it in place out of the way, underneath the dashboard.
The next step is to feed the wire from the control box to your headlights. The wire is run in a series so there's only one wire you need to run. We chose to put the wire through the grommet for our speedometer cable to protect the wire.
You don't want the wire touching the bare metal. You want to make sure you're using some sort of a grommet. We then ran the wire along the factory harness up to a hole in the apron where I fed the wire to our left headlight and then ran across to our right headlight.
Now, you want to fish each of the headlight wire harnesses up through the headlight bolt. Fish the wire through and you want to pull out the original headlight plug. Fish that through as well. Grab the supplied connector. Connect to the original plug.
This time, you can plug in your new halo headlight and plug in the new extension harness and plug in the harness from the box that you just ran. This is a time where it would be a good idea, once you've connected both lights, to hook power back up, and then check to see if the lights are functioning before you bolt them back in place.
Now, you want to push your headlight back up into the bowl and carefully reinstall the original trim. Now, you want to tighten down the screws to hold on the headlight retaining ring. Make sure not to over tighten them. It is a glass lens. You just want to make sure that they are snug. Now, you want to reinstall the original retaining ring. Make sure the screws are tight, but don't over-tighten them. Your headlight install is complete.
At this point, you want to duplicate the process with the passenger side and assemble it the same way we did at the driver side. Now, it's time to test your lights. Simply turn on your parking lights and the halos will illuminate. You have several different options.
The base colors are going to be red, green, blue, or white which is a mixture of all the colors that has a slight purplish tint, but is close to white. You also have several custom colors you can choose from through 16 different custom tints.
You could also choose a flash option, a fade, and a strobe light option. The lights can be turned on or off by remote control. You can also adjust the brightness. Once you turn your headlights on, the halos will stay illuminated. Again, you want to make sure that you do not have any color besides white on when travelling on a public highway.
You can choose to turn the halo off and just run the H4 bulbs which, like I said, are approximately 50% brighter than your stock bulbs, so it makes this a safety upgrade as well as a cosmetic one.
The installation should take roughly three hours depending on your wiring skill and the condition of your original parts, so we will be back on the road in no time.