MRT Stainless Steel 3" to 2-1/2" High-Flow Catted Turbo-Back Exhaust System with 4" Tips for all 2015, 2016 and 2017 Fastback EcoBoost Mustangs.
Are you ready to increase the performance and turn up the sound on your new 2015-2017 EcoBoost Mustang? This Stainless Steel 3” to 2-1/2" High-Flow Catted Turbo-Back Exhaust System from Mustang Racing Technologies is going to provide the power gains you’re looking for and the exhaust note your new Fastback EcoBoost Mustang deserves!
This complete system, includes all the necessary mounting hardware for an easy bolt-in installation. The MRT turbo-back system will mount in all of the factory exhaust mounting locations and exits through your rear valance. The 4" tips will fill up the exhaust cutouts much better than the small stock muffler tips. And unlike most available systems, this kit will even replace your factory downpipe with a 3” High-Flow Catted pipe that will increase flow when compared to your power-robbing factory catalytic converter.
Features and Benefits:
- Made From 304 Stainless Steel Mandrel Bent Tubing
- Proven to Increase both Horsepower and Torque
- 4" Polished Stainless Steel Tips
- Deep Exhaust Note
- High-Flow Catted Downpipe for Increased Performance
- Easy Bolt-In Installation
- 3” High-Flow Catted Downpipe
- 2-1/2” Intermediate Pipe
- Driver and Passenger Side Under Axle Pipes
- Driver and Passenger Side Mufflers and 4” Tips
- (4) 2-1/2” Band Clamps
- (2) 3” Band Clamps
*Fits Mustang Fastbacks only.
This MRT Stainless Steel 3” to 2-1/2" High-Flow Catted Turbo-Back Exhaust System will transform your EcoBoost Mustang's exhaust note into the sound it’s meant to have. With performance in mind, MRT engineered this Turbo-Back Exhaust System with all 304 Stainless Steel mandrel bent tubing and precise fitment around the brand new 2015-2017 Mustang’s independent rear suspension.
Order the Mustang Racing Technologies Stainless Steel 3" to 2-1/2" High-Flow Catted Turbo-Back Exhaust System with 4" Tips for your 2015-2017 Fastback EcoBoost Mustang from CJ Pony Parts today!
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Product ReviewsWrite a review
I have the base mustang ecoboost does this exhaust still fit in my car
Can u guys send this to China for free? If it cost, how much would that be?
Can I put this on my convertible ecostang?
Is this legal in California?
Is there a catback instead?
Will this fit my axle back Roush exhaust?
What will be better performance wise high flow catted or non catted?
Does this exhaust have a cat?
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CJ's Low Price:$99.95
The turbo-back exhaust starts off with this 3-inch downpipe, which is available with or without a catalytic converter. From there, it goes into a 3-inch lead pipe to a y-pipe, and finally a pair of 2 1/2-inch tailpipes, through a set of polished mufflers, to a 4 1/2-inch polish double role tips. This entire system is made of stainless steel, and includes all necessary hardware for installation.
Since the EcoBoost is new to the Mustang platform, first we're going to walk you through the stock exhaust system to show you what you have from the factory. Then, we'll give you some sound clips when we're done. The system starts with a downpipe. Your turbo's mounted on the passenger side. The downpipe comes down here through a very large catalytic converter, through an intermediate pipe, to a flex pipe, applied to a resonator similar to what the Mustang GT's have. Very large. I'm sure it's heavy and probably very restrictive, as well. It's a single pipe into the resonator. After the resonator, you come to a pair of 2 1/4 inch tail pipes that curve back under the IRS, going through a large set of Ford mufflers, ending up at probably the saddest set of Ford stock tips I've seen in a long time.
Now, we'll show you how it sounds.
For this installation, get a lift or a jack and jack stands, 3/8 ratchet, 13mm deep socket, 15mm deep socket, 6 inch extension, 15mm wrench (ratcheting preferred), exhaust hanger removal tool, and a 7/8 inch or oxygen sensor wrench.
Removing the factory exhaust is easy. We found the best thing to do is to remove these two bolts here that hold the rear hangers. That'll remove the clamp up front. Then just lift up to unclip them.
Now, we moved up front, and removed the clamp here between the resonator and the curve in the factory downpipe.
Now that the clamp's loosened and the hangers are off, you're going to slide the system back, and then pull it forward to remove from the factory hangers. You're definitely want some help for this part. The exhaust is large and rather heavy.
The downpipe is connected by two studs and two nuts to the turbo itself. There's actually a bracket underneath the car, as well. The first thing you want to do, though, is disconnect the oxygen sensor so when you take the pipe out you don't rip the wiring. The sensor's right here. You follow the wire up, and it disconnects right here.
The nuts can be removed from either the top or bottom. It just depends on how you're working on the car itself. We'll take one of them off from the top, the easiest one here. The other side's a little bit easier to get to from the bottom.
Another point to mention is you do want to make sure that your exhaust is completely cool when doing this installation.
The other nut is right back here. You can get them both from the top or both from the bottom. It doesn't matter. It is easier to get one from the top, the other one from down here.
While the pipe is still supported by the bracket hanger, make sure you disconnect the rear oxygen sensor. Once that's disconnected you can remove the two nuts that hold the factory downpipe to the bracket. Remove the downpipe from the rear hanger, and then we can remove our downpipe.
Once the pipe's off, you want to remove both oxygen sensors, and move them into our new MRT pipe. Keep track of front and rear. You want to put them in the same place. I'm going to put a couple dabs of anti-cease onto our sensor, and then put it into our new pipe. Be very careful not to cross-thread oxygen sensor.
You want to reuse the factory donut with the MRT downpipe. It should have stayed on the turbo. If it didn't, make sure you put it back on. This little flanged edge here goes into the turbo.
I can put our new downpipe up into place, and reinstall it using the stock hardware. Get the downpipe centered on the donut with the brackets sitting on the factory bracket. You want to tighten it up.
You want to make sure you have the pipe as centered as possible where the factory pipe was. This bracket may not line up 100%. These bolts can be loosened at the transmission. There's a good amount of play in this to get it lined up.
I grab the intermediate pipes and one of the clamps. Just snug the clamp up. You don't want to make it tight just yet because you'll still want to make some adjustments. The same thing with the Y-pipe, slide it over.
Before we're going to install the tailpipes, you want to remove the factory hangers from the stock exhaust. Just slide the hanger on to the new tailpipe, put the clamp on the front. Once the tailpipe's hanging, you want to put the bolt back into the factory hanger and tighten it down. You want to put a clamp on the muffler once you have the tailpipe on. Start by putting it into the rear hanger. Connect to the tailpipe, and you want to go back through and adjust everything, lift it into place, and tighten it down.
We're going to reconnect the oxygen sensor underneath the car first. Once this is connected, we'll go out to the engine bay and plug in the other one. We'll reach back here. Pull the wire up from the sensor below. Plug into the factory plug, and your installation's finished.
Now for the most important part of the installation, let's see how it sounds. Definitely far more aggressive than the stock system. You can really hear it. It has a lot of crackle, a lot of raspiness to it. Very, very aggressive sound. You can really hear the turbo now, as well.
The MRT turbo-back exhaust gave our Eco-Boost Mustang a very, very aggressive sound. It may not be the sound that most V8 Mustang enthusiasts are used too, but it sounds like exactly what it is, a modified powerful 4-cylinder turbo engine. The installation, figure about 3 to 4 hours. The pipe fitment is very exact, so you want to take your time and make sure everything is lined up properly before you tighten it down. You'll be back on the road in no time. For more EcoBoost install videos, make sure you subscribe to our YouTube channel.