StopTech Front Driver Side Slotted Disc Brake Rotor for 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009 and 2010 GT and 2011-2014 V6 Mustangs.
Excessive heat can cause resins in your brake pad to vaporize or "out-gas". As the brake pad wears, the used friction material turns into a fine dust. This boundary layer of heat, gas and dust builds up between the pad and rotor surfaces and inhibits performance. Here is where StopTech's slotted brake rotors make a big difference!
StopTech's exclusive Vac-U-Slots are machined into the rotor and help evacuate gasses and dust, shed heat, and keep the brake pad surface clean. And in wet, raining conditions, StopTech's Vac-U-Slot helps push water off the braking surface for better stopping power.
StopTech rotors are finished in a durable black e-coat on the hat, edges and internal vanes to prevent corrosion. The braking surfaces are left in a bare iron finish to improve brake pad bed-in.
-Castings include important O.E. details including extractor and set screw holes
-Superior cooling fin designs
-Double disc ground finish
-100% fully machined finish including rotor hats
-100% inspected and mill-balanced
-Lateral run-out held to 0.002" or less
-Meets or exceeds rigid quality specifications, including cooling vane designs
StopTech rotors are a direct replacement for your factory OE front rotors. For best results, follow the "Brake Pad Bed-In" instructions included with every shipment. Brake caliper service or rebuild is recommended for vehicles with higher mileage.
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Today, we are going to upgrade the brakes on our 2006 Mustang using parts from Hawk Performance and Power Slot. For our installation, we chose the Hawk HPS High Performance Street Pads. HPS uses a unique ferro carbon material to provide 20-40% more stopping power. It works great both hot and cold. It's also going to keep brake dust at a minimum.
For rotors, we're going with vented replacement rotors from Power Slot for both the front and the rear. All Power Slots rotors feature this exclusive vacu-slot design, which will evacuate gases and dust, as well as shedding heat. They also work to channel out water in wet conditions for superior stopping power. All the rotors come with these fully machined hats, which are also e-coated for protection against corrosion.
For this installation, you need a lift or a jack and jack stands, 3/8-inch ratchet, 12 millimeter socket, 13 millimeter socket, 15 millimeter socket, brake caliper piston tool, small pick, and a large set of pliers.
The first step is to get your car off the ground and pull the wheels off. Next, we need to remove the two bolts that hold the caliper to the caliper bracket. Once you remove the two bolts, carefully slide off our caliper. Once you remove the pads, you can rest the caliper out of the way on the control arm and remove the additional two retainers off the caliper bracket. Now we're going to remove the two bolts that hold the caliper bracket to the axle. It's going to be a little tighter than the caliper bolts are. Once that bolt comes out, the bracket will come right off.
Now we can remove our rotor. In some cases, you might find a little retaining washer on it holding the rotor in place, if not, slide it right off. We're going to slide on our new Power Slot Rotor. Be careful with the rotors, they are labeled, so they are side-specific. We want that little sticker off. Once we have the rotor on, we can now reinstall our caliper bracket.
Now we have to press the piston back into the caliper to be able to put our new pads on. Unfortunately, you can see at some point in time, somebody pressed it back in and didn't lubricate it. It had a small tear in the boot, but it should be okay. That should be good enough. With the piston pressed in, we'll reinstall the lower retainer here and we're ready to install our pads. We're going to put the pads in place and we're ready to reinstall our caliper. Make sure everything is nice and straight. Now we're going to reinstall our caliper bolts.
That completes the installation of our rear rotors and pads. I'm going to duplicate the process on the other side, now we're going to move to the front. We're going to start with the caliper bolts. We're going to rest the caliper on the lower control arm, you don't want to let it hang by the hose. It can damage the hose. Now we're going to pull off the caliper brackets. We're ready to remove our rotor. In this case, we do have a washer on it. The washer should thread off, but sometimes it can be a pain to get off. Start with a small screwdriver to get it started. Once it's off, we can remove our rotor.
We're ready to install our new Power Slot rotor. Again, they are side-specific, make sure you get the correct side and we'll reinstall our retaining washer. Now we're going to remove the old pads from our brackets and install the new ones. Pull it upward and twist to remove. Then do the other side. Now we've got to push the pistons in before we can put them back on the car. Grab an old brake pad, line it up against the pistons, get a good-sized set of pliers, squeeze them back in. Now we're ready to reinstall our loaded bracket. Now we're ready to reinstall our caliper.
Once everything's tight, we're ready to reinstall our wheel. Once we get it back down on the ground, you want to torque them to the proper spec. Not only is our pad and rotor upgrade going to increase our braking power by over 20%, it will look great behind the wheels, too. Figure on about two hours to do the front and back, you'll be back on the road in no time.