Power Window Kit with Crank Handle Switches for all 1966, 1967, 1968, 1969, 1970, 1971, 1972, 1973, 1974, 1975, 1976 and 1977 Broncos.
Have you always wanted the luxury of power windows in your classic 1966-1977 Ford Bronco, but feared losing the factory look and feel of the interior with aftermarket switches? This Power Window Kit with Crank Handle Switches allows you to reuse your original window cranks that will help maintain the factory look you love!
This model-specific kit comes with everything you need to convert from those tiring manual crank windows to a custom power window setup with power crank handle switches that reuse your original window crank handles. The kit comes with new power regulators featuring AC Delco motors for the door windows, power crank handle switches for original window cranks, a complete and labeled wiring harness, as well as conduit to protect the wires traveling through the doors.
- New Power Regulators (2)
- New AC Delco Power Window Motors (2)
- Power Crank Handle Switches (2)
- Complete and Labeled Wiring Harness (1)
- Conduit (2)
*For use with 1965-1967 screw on style window cranks.
You can count on these new power window regulators to last because they are built right here in the USA. Constructed from 1018 cold roll steel with bronze Oilite thrust bearings at all the pivot points and feature treated gear plates for longer teeth life. The new power window regulators are designed to bolt directly into the original mounting holes with little to no modifications and will use the original glass channels. Each window regulator is equipped with a new AC Delco OEM motor, insuring the highest of quality and performance every time you hit the switch.
This kit includes power crank handle switches that are controlled by pushing down on the crank handle to lower the window and pulling up on the crank handle to raise the window. These crank handle switches mount behind the door panels and allow the use of original window crank handles. The original window cranks mount directly on to the new power crank handle switches the same way they would mount on to the factory manual window regulators. There is no right or wrong position for the window cranks once installed on the crank handle switches; placement is entirely up to you.
The wiring harness comes with all the wires labeled for correct positioning and is fused to allow operation of the power windows without the engine running. The black wire is the ground and should be attached to clean metal to ensure a proper ground. The red (orange) wire is the 12V hot feed.
If you're ready to start enjoying the luxury of power windows, order a Power Window Kit with Crank Handle Switches for your 1966, 1967, 1968, 1969, 1970, 1971, 1972, 1973, 1974, 1975, 1976 or 1977 Bronco from CJ Pony Parts today!
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This kit is very similar to the Mustang kit we installed, in that the power motor is already mounted to the regulator, making for an easier installation. It includes these switches that have threads that will fit a stock crank. That way, you're not using an after-market power window switch. Simply push the crank up and down. That'll make your windows go up and down. The kit includes both sides, two switches, and all the wiring necessary for installation.
For this installation, you'll need a Phillips head screwdriver, 1/4" ratchet, 3/8 socket, pick, marker, drill, 1/8" drill bit, 13/64 drill bit, 7/8 Uni bit, wire crimpers, wire strippers, in-line fuse, test leads, some extra primary wire, flashlight, and safety glasses.
Well, obviously, we know how to do this on a Mustang. I can't say I've ever done it on a Bronco before. So we're going to start by pulling off the door panel and taking a look at how the window works, then start taking it apart. We're going to start by rolling the window up, so we can see the channel. Here's where the regulator actually connects to the channel, which puts the window up. We're going to disconnect the roller between the regulator and the channel. That will allow us to separate the two of them. There's a little clip on the back side. Separate the regulator from the window.
Now, with the regulator separated from the window channel, we're going to remove the four screws that hold the regulator to our door. Now, we're ready install the regulator and motor assembly. You may notice, we cut this piece out here. It wasn't cut in the introduction, but we found with the new style switches this will have to be cut out for proper clearance. All models that ship from now on will have it cut out, so you won't have to worry about it.
Put the bolts in hand tight just to hold everything in place. Now, I'll tighten everything up. The mounting screws for this switch are actually located on the back side of the switch. We're going to remove those first. Now, we're going to remove the back of the switch so we can use it as a template for drilling our holes. Now, carefully remove the back, and place the switch aside. Now, we're going to line this up. This hole here in the back is where the actual piece comes through to connect our crank to, so we want to get that pretty much in the center.
Now, we'll reassemble the switch. We're going to install the wiring harness before we put the switch up into our door. Start on the inside of the switch. It's going to be the power, the ground, and then the motor wire on each side. So red, black, and then the brown or blue. It does not matter which side the brown or blue wires go to. Now, we're ready to install our switch. We'll leave the wiring harness dangling and put it up into place. Now, we're going to install the plug onto the power window motor.
Now we need to lower our regulator down so that we can reconnect it to the window channel itself. To do that, we'll grab some test leads, connect to our battery, and connect power to our switch so we can move the regulator up and down. You want to make sure your test leads are clear of the regulator when you move it up and down. And you want to get it pretty much right in the middle. Now we can install the roller. We're going to bring the window channel down into place. We'll put some new grease in there before we install the roller. And you want to put the roller actually in the channel itself, and then move it down to the regulator, and pop the regulator in. Now we'll test our window. We can keep the wires clear. It goes up nice, and it goes down.
Now we need to run the wiring from our switch inside our Bronco. How you do that kind of depends on how you're going to use your Bronco itself. In our case, our doors are fixed nut and are not going to come off, so we're going to use the supplied grommets and fish the wires through. If you do remove your doors, I recommend a paintless harness contact kit that can be installed in the door jamb, and that way you can remove the door without damaging your switches.
We're going to start by removing the strap for our door that will allow us to open the door a little bit further, making it easier to drill. The wiring harness is going to come through the bottom of the door here, and then go up, and that side's going to go on the top there. You just want to roughly eyeball up where it's going to go, then we can drill our holes. I'm going to start with a pilot hole first. Same thing over here. Now, we'll open the holes up. Now, we're going to fish the wire from the door, through the supplied grommet, up into the fender, and then out in the engine bay. I'll reconnect the strap to our door.
We let the wire fish into the back of the fender, then up through the dash, and out into our engine bay. Now, we're going to start fishing it over towards the battery. Since we're out of wire at this point, it's a good time to connect our in-line fuse. Now, we'll fish some wire from our starter solenoid over to our fuse. Now, we'll terminate this end of the wire, and we'll connect it to the power coming off our starter solenoid. We'll install our fuse and we'll check our windows. Put that up. It moves freely. Nothing's binding up. We're ready to reinstall our door panel. We're going to repeat the process on the other side, and your installation is finished.
Our power window kit fits great, and actually wasn't that bad to install, either. Expect to spend about three hours. You'll be back on the road in no time.