The price is right, they seem like they are constructed well but I have not ran them yet or given them the test of time. In my 67 Coupe with a 302, no power steering, I dropped these headers in straight down from the top. They fit like a glove. They do come a little close to the starter so maybe a heat shield for the starter is in order.
* Fitment, great. Typical issues with power-steering needing the relocation bracket but otherwise fit like a champ.
* Sizing, for a 289 this is almost perfectly sized to keep exhaust gas velocity as high as possible. When I ran the math for the TRUE flow numbers to expect from this engine, this set came the closest to what I would actually need.
* Coating, the coating has held up alright in general shop abuse before they go on. Expect a few scuffs as you fit them.
* Construction, great for the price. The flange-to-tube connections are all quite well done (no gaps) and no slag/spatter in the pipes.
I bought these headers for my 66 coupe with the stock 289 and they fit great. I had the engine out already so I bolted them on and managed to drop it in with headers attached and didn't have any fitment issues. They driver side header does come a little close to the power steering slave cylinder and the passenger side comes a little close to the starter, but they do clear. Recommend buying these ceramic coated ones over the black painted once since they hold the heat inside better without making the engine bay really hot.
Bought these headers to complete my side exit exhaust "mini-project" on my '65 mustang coupe.
The driver side went on perfectly with zero clearance problems at the shock tower and the bellhousing (common clearance issue areas). I also ordered the '66 style adjustable lower equalizer bar rod to further aid the installation process (worked perfectly; recommended for '65s with manual transmissions).
The passenger side wasn't as easy. Given my motor mounts are probably sagging a bit, there was slight contact on the shock tower and bellhousing. A few precision bangs with the trusty old ball peen hammer did the trick (hint: to not mess up the ceramic coating, lay a rag over the header). Also, there wasnt much clearance between the header and the starter "positive" post so some modifications were applied there as well.
Something that caught me by surprise was that one of the header-to-head bolt holes was "too close" to the primary tube which wedged the socket on when tightening the bolt (had to use a socke
bought these try y headers because of the spark plug asses-ability.
great fit into my 1970 fb 302 about 3 hours tear down and installation time per side would recommend these headers no clearance problems.