1967 Mustang coupe, 289ci, 4-speed with stock aluminum bellhousing and z-bar.
Even though the description says, "The Tri-Y Headers will fit automatic and manual transmission Mustangs with large and small bell housings" the driver side header contacted my bellhousing.
I was able to clearance the bellhousing with a grinder enough to make it clear, but it was something I felt like I shouldn't have to do... especially based on the product description.
I also had clearance issues with the stock z-bar, but that seems to be pretty common with most tri-y headers. I was able to solve this problem by making new custom length clutch rods to make the upper rod longer and the lower rod shorter.
These headers also made it impossible to get a spark plug socket on the #2 spark plug. I was finally able to get to it with a Craftsman "Max Access" socket.
The good news is that there was plenty of clearance for the shock towers and the starter.
The Good: The stainless is polished to a nice shine, the stainless is thick with decent welds and the price is excellent. I purchased the Scott Drake Stainless Tri Y kit with gaskets, flanges, nuts, bolts etc. The Power Steering Lowering Bracket (must have) and the H-Pipe Tubes on sale for under 400 bucks.
The Installation: Passenger side is no problem with lots of room, bolted up in 5 minutes.
Drivers side: My 1965 Mustang with a 302 fought it every step of the way. Be prepared to do some if not all of the following: Install PS Lowering Bracket (bolt & weld it), Had to remove driver side motor mounts and jack up motor about 6 inches just to slide (from under the car) the header in place, cut and grind off a non used tab on the C4 transmission flange for clearance of lower collector tube, Had to "massage" the second tube from front with a hammer (heat first) for clearance from the shock tower, again slightly "massaged" same tube on the inside for clearance from the head bolt. Had to drill out rear mounting
The first set of these headers had such poor bolt hole spacing it was impossible to even bolt onto my heads. Drake replaced those but the drivers side will not clear the clutch Z-bar in my 289 four speed and rests solidly against the bell housing. I tired a T-5 with cable clutch upgrade and the header still blocks the cable routing. Looks like the header was poorly aligned when welded. Currently waiting to see if Drake will take care of this set as well.
Very good looking set of pipes, stainless steel is shiny and very thick. Comes with all the hardware which is nice. Very good welding BUT WILL NOT FIT AN AOD - NO WAY!!! DON'T EVEN THINK ABOUT IT!!!
The quality seems great, is just what I was wanted for my 65.
Nice polished finish on the pipes, not the flanges.
Headers, flanges, and reducers are all stainless, hardware is not.
I used ARP bolts to heads, and regular 316SS bolts in collectors.
THE PROBLEM IS the number 7 cylinder pipe does not clear the Edelbrock 6022 (60229) heads on my engine. I bolted them up to a stock 289 head and I can slide a piece of paper between the head and pipe.
On the Edelbrock head, it actually holds the flange away from the head so it would be a massive leak. I am contacting Edelbrock engineering to see if I can get a 3D cross-section of the head below #2 (#7) exhaust port/spark plug, to know if I can machine a dimple in the head to clear the #7 pipe.
Other than this OOPS, I am very happy, for half the price of JBA SS.