Rear Control Arm Kit Tubular Stainless Steel 1979-1998

CJ's Part Number: RCK5
CJ's Low Price:
$199.99
Out of Stock This item is out of stock with the manufacturer1411171200
Earn 199 RPM Points What's this?
RCK5
RCK5 RCK5_1 RCK5_2 RCK5_3 Play Rear Control Arm Kit Tubular Stainless Steel 1979-1998 Video 1 Play Rear Control Arm Kit Tubular Stainless Steel 1979-1998 Video 3

Product Description

Stainless Steel Tubular Rear Control Arm Kit for all 1979-1998 Mustangs.

Stock control arms tend to flex and deflect during spirited driving. These new tubular control arms replace the factory stamped steel arms and include polyurethane bushings for improved performance.

Features and Benefits:
- Includes rear upper and lower control arms with mounting hardware
- Made from T-304 Stainless Steel and then polished
- Uses polyurethane bushings

Similar Mustang Parts

similar mustang parts More Mustang Rear Control Arms  

Mustang Applications

This product will fit the following Ford Mustang years:

Product Reviews

Write a Review

Product Video

By Bill Tumas: All 79-04 Mustangs use a factory four link rear suspension consisting of lower control arms and two upper control arms. While this is a tried-and-true of putting power to the ground, a lot of the time factory components are really not up to the task, especially for high performance driving. A good set of aftermarket arms, like this stainless steel set shown here, make huge improvements in the traction of your Mustang. So today, we're going to show you how to install these using our 1996 Mustang Cobra.

This stainless steel control arm set will fit all 1979 through 1998 Mustangs. It includes both upper and lower control arms, greasable polyurethane bushings and all hardware necessary for installation. The tubular design will be much stronger than the factory stamped steel.

For this installation, you need a jack and jack stands or a life and pull jack, 1/2 inch ratchet, 3/8 ratchet, short extension, 8 millimeter socket, an assortment of 19 millimeter sockets, an assortment of 18 millimeter sockets, assortment of 17 millimeter sockets, assortment of 15 millimeter sockets, 1/2 inch impact gun, 18 millimeter wrench, 19 millimeter wrench, hammer, small pry bar, needle nose pliers, Phillips head driver, grease gun and safety glasses.

You want to get the car off the ground, get the wheels off and get the rear end support of either a pole jack or jack, if you're working on your back. You want to start by removing the rear shocks. You want to do that so the rear can actually drop down a little bit and make it a lot easier to access our control arms. One of the easiest to do the control arms is, make sure you only do one at a time. If you take multiple control arms off, it's a lot harder to get everything aligned back up.

Let's remove the bolts on both sides; we'll just pop them out. We're going to remove the bolt that holds the quad shock to the rear end housing. I'm going to pop the quad shock out of the rear end housing; next we'll remove the screw that holds the ABS line to our e-brake bracket.

Now, we're going to remove the two bolts that hold the sway bar to the control to the control arms. Now, we're going to lower the rear to take some tension off the bolts for the control arm and also to remove our springs. Now, we can start removing our lower control arms. We'll start with rear bolt that holds the control arm to our housing. You can see here why when you're replacing your control arms; you also want to replace your control arm bolts.

Now, we're going to move on to the front bolts for the lower control arms. This can be the hardest bolt to get off, depending on what mufflers you're using. In our case we've got a Turbo style muffler, so we have enough room to get up in here. If you can't get a wrench in there, you may have to disconnect you mufflers to get to these bolts.

And you want to check the lower torque box there and make sure there's no rips or tears or any kind of metal sticking out that can damage our new bushings. Spray a little bit of lubricant in there, and we can install our new control arm. Put the arm up in place and you just want to get it hand tight. We're not going to tighten them down yet, because they could bind up. Put the rear up into place. Again, hand tight, you don't want to tighten them all the way.

Now, we can move on to upper control arm. Start with the bolts on the chassis side. Again, you want to check for damage to the upper torque box and make sure there's no rips or tears or anything that can damage our new bushing. Check the bushings on the housing as well make sure they're in good shape and install our new upper control arm.

Again, like the lower, just hand tight just to get it in place for now. You may want to use a screwdriver or pry bar to kind of move it down into place to get the hole lined up. Okay, again hand tight and now move onto the other side. Here's a comparison of what the stock control arm looks like versus our aftermarket control arm. See ours is a much beefier design; see the factory bushings are all dried out as well. The back of these are hollow; they're just stamped verse the tubular. It's going to be much stronger and you put much more power to the ground.

When you go to the upper, it's the same story. There's a much beefier construction in the late-model one, factory rubber bushing versus the polyurethane bushing is going to be much stronger. We're going to reinstall our springs and push the rear back into place before we tighten up our control arms. If your insulators look like ours do, it's a good time to replace them.

Now, we'll jack the rear up into place, so we can reinstall our shocks. I'm going to jack it up a little higher to put load on the rear suspension and then we'll tighten down our control arm bolts. Before we can install our rear sway bar, we have to make a change to the bracket for e-brake cable. On the original bracket, the stud goes across the top here, because it sits on top of your factory control arm, it actually won't work with these control arms. What you need to do is flip this bracket over and to do that, we're going to pop the e-brake cable off and flip it. Remove the cotter pin that holds it in place, pull cable out, flip the bracket and put it back on, so it's going to sit just like that underneath, and reconnect the cable.

Now, we're ready to install our rear sway bar. With our aftermarket arms, the sway bar end is going to mount on the outside, so use these little inserts, you have to flip the front ones around, the rear ones have to be removed, so you have to use hardware to hold on our brackets. Once you have the front bolt installed to hold it in place, you want to grab some new hardware for the bottom here, push it up into place and push our bolt through. We can tighten up the rear bolts.

Since the bracket is going to mount on the top of this bracket, which used to be the bottom of the bracket, the screw has to go in from the top. The easy way to do that is remove the ABS line from the bracket, put the bracket in place and screw it in and then we'll mount the wire and reinstall the ABS line.

Last step in the control arm install is to grease our bushings. Now, we install our wheels, our installation is finished. Our stainless steel rear control arm kits can do a much better job of putting the power to the ground versus our worn out stockers. As long as you remember to spray some penetrating lubricant on the bolts ahead of time, installation should only take you between two and three hours, so you'll be back on the road in no time.