Passenger Side Rocker Panel Molding with Clips for all 1967-1968 Mustangs.
When it comes to the exterior of your classic 1967-1968 Mustang, it's important to make sure you restore every part of it big and small. So take a closer look at the rocker panel molding on both sides of your Mustang. Is it missing, damaged or dented on either or both sides? If so, it's time to order this new Rocker Panel Molding with Clips from CJ Pony Parts!
This Rocker Panel Molding with Clips can be ordered for just the driver side, just the passenger side or as a pair. You'll get everything you need to install them too! This Rocker Panel Molding is the molding that runs along the exterior of your Mustang just below the driver side and passenger side doors, and it's a direct fit replacement, OE-style reproduction. You'll love the way it looks after you're done mounting it on your Pony, and you'll love how well it ties the rest of your exterior together.
When everyone looks at your Mustang, the first thing they're going to see is the condition of your Mustang's body and sheet metal. CJ Pony Parts is positive that you'll want your Mustang looking its best, so we offer many body and sheet metal parts. CJ's body and sheet metal will allow you to repair damaged parts of your Mustang or style your Mustang to have the perfect look to impress anyone who sees it.
Order Rocker Panel Molding with Clips for your 1967-1968 Mustang from CJ Pony Parts today!
Product ReviewsWrite a review
You Might Also Like
/** * Cases for simple product that is not on sale */ ?>CJ's Low Price:$24.99
/** * Cases for simple product that is not on sale */ ?>CJ's Low Price:$13.46
Today we're going to show you how to replace rocker panel moldings using our 1968 Mustang coupe. If you have a 1967 or 1968 that wasn't originally equipped, we'll give you the proper measurements for adding them.
We offer rocker panel molding kids that fit your 1965 through 1968 Mustang. This particular kit here is going to be correct for 1967 through 1968. It's going to include both rocker panel moldings, the rivets and all the clips and hardware necessary for installation. We're going to show you the basics of how the clips work with the moldings. This is going to be hard to see when it's on the car.
Basically the way it works, this clip here is going to rivet to the body on the rocker itself. What you do is you'll put the bottom of the molding over this clip then you'll press down so that locks in place and that's what holds it on.
For this installation, you'll need a tape measure, marker, drill, 1/8" drill bit, 1/4" drill bit, rivet gun, 1/4" ratchet, 9mm deep socket, and safety glasses.
We put the car up in the air to make the installation easier to see. By all means you can do this installation on the ground. The first step, we're going to remove our rocker panel moldings if they haven't fallen off already.
As you can see at some point in time, somebody actually screwed ours on which is definitely not correct. We're going to remove the screws and then pop the moldings off. You'll just pull from the top to get them off. You may need a plastic pry bar but usually you can get a grip on them pretty easily.
Now we're going to remove all the original clips by drilling out into the rivets. Now we're going to clean the surface up before we install the new clips. Your new rocker panel molding is going to include 6 clips. You may have noticed we took ours apart our car had 7 mainly because somebody added some extra ones somewhere along the line.
Measuring along the seam, the first hole is going to be 2 and 1/2" in from the edge of the wheel well. From there, you have 13" between holes. If you follow a 13" rule the next set of holes should be right in this neighborhood here. These holes are in the wrong places. I would guess at some point in time this fender was probably replaced. The holes may have already been there. These you can see were miss-drilled, these two holes down here. Instead of drilling additional holes, we're going to get an extra clip and use the existing ones because they will still line up.
The top holes all the way down are going to be 7/8" from the top of the rocker. You're going to line up all those holes. If you don't have holes pre-drilled, drill the top hole first, put the clip in place, and then drill the bottom hole wherever it happens to line up. When installing the clip, the small hole goes towards the top, the elongated hole is going to go on the bottom.
I just tried to put our new rocker moldings on to our clips and it's not fitting properly. I'm starting to see why. I think these were probably screwed on. One or two of these is going to be in the wrong place. What we're going to do is grab a piece of string and go straight across and figure out which ones are wrong and move them.
We're running a string and as you can see these two in the middle are a little bit on the high side. This one is close but should be okay. These two are definitely going to have to be moved down to make our rocker panel molding fit properly.
The rest of the rocker panel molding is held on by these clips. The very front has a stud that has to go through. What you want to do is line up the molding, figure out where to drill your hole, and drill a hole for the stud to pass though, then put a nut on the other side.
This little plastic comes already installed on the rocker panel molding. You want to install the stud, then we can install on the car with the seal and the nut. To install the molding on the car you want to put it on the bottom first then clip on at the top. Because of the length of it, it's not a bad idea to get some help. It's a lot easier to line it up that way.
You want to take this little foam insert. It's going to go inside of the nut, and you'll put the nut on the stud. We'll tighten down the nut. We don't want to make this too tight, just barely past finger-tight. Repeat the process on the other side and your installation is finished.
Rocker panel moldings really fit the classic styling of our 68 Mustang. The installation is a little bit on the tedious side, especially if you're starting from scratch. Take your time. Make sure your measurements are accurate and you'll be back on the road in no time.