Rod & Custom Motorsports Rack And Pinion/Disc Brake Conversion Kit with a Coilover/Tubular A-Arm System and Plain Brake Rotors for all 1965, 1966, 1967, 1968, 1969, 1970, 1971, 1972 and 1973 V8 Mustangs with Manual Steering.
Rod & Custom Motorsports understands quality verses affordability. That's why all of Rod & Custom's kits are designed with top grade steel, intense quality control procedures and manufactured with the buyers needs in consideration. With Rod & Custom, you can be confident in knowing you have purchased and installed the highest quality, best fitting, most affordable Rack & Pinion Independent Front Suspension on the market today!
- Shock Tower Replacement Panels
- Motor Mounts
- Coilovers with Springs
- Spanner Wrench
- Upper and Lower Tubular Control Arms with Urethane Bushings
- Manual Steering Rack and Pinion
- Rack Ends and Bushings
- Steering Shaft Kit
- Steering Column Modification Kit
- 11" Front Disc Brake Kit (with plain or slotted/drilled rotors)
- Stainless Steel Flex Front Brake Lines
- 1" Front Sway Bar Kit
- Spindles with Nut Kit
- Bearings and Seals
This is Rod & Custom's most popular system! A true coilover system that allows ride height adjustability. While other kits adjust the height by simply screwing the shocks up or down, Rod & Custom uses their "Unique Slide" design that allows the kit to operate through the full range of motion without loss of travel. By using one of these kits you will gain an extra 7" of engine clearance on each side!
- Year of Mustang
- Engine Size
*Available for V8 engines ONLY, Rod & Custom Motorsports does not have motor mounts for the inline 6-cylinder engines.
*A rear sump oil pan is required with this kit.
*This Rod and Custom Front Suspension kit will not work with 14" or 15" 1965-1967 Styled Steel Wheels. The hub portion of the rotor will not fit within the wheel.
Wheel and Tire Fitment Notes:
- For optimum tire clearance CJ Pony Parts strongly recommends no wider than a 7” wheel
- A 7” wide wheel will need to have 4” to 4-1/2” of backspacing
- An 8” wide wheel is possible, but must have custom backspacing
- All 15”, 16” and 17” wheels are acceptable and recommended
- Some 14” wheels will fit with this kit, however most will not
Please Note: All components come with a black or bare-steel finish. The picture shows red components for display purposes only.
Tech Tip: CJ Pony Parts uses Fox Body Long Tube Headers when installing this kit on 1965-1973 Mustangs with a 289, 302 or 351W engine.
Product ReviewsWrite a review
Does this kit come with a right hand drive power steering option?
I can't believe nobody has a question,so I want to eliminate my shock towers and drop a gen 3 Chevy small block with matching 4L60E can you prefab my mounts and do you still need to box the engine bay since the towers are gone I have a Monte Carlo bar
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The Rod & Custom suspension is not for an amateur installer. It's going to require extensive cutting and welding to properly install it. I'm not going to show you a step-by-step, but we’ll give you the basics on how everything goes together. Before you start the job you want to pick up a spot weld cutter, this is the easiest way to get through all the factory spot welds, which are on all three pieces we're going to be removing.
Once the spot welds are cut out of a few other places we'll have to actually cut some welds before we start removing the brackets. Now we're going to grab our chisel and start separating the brackets from the frame. Now we have our strut rod bracket and sway bar bracket removed. We're ready to move onto the shock tower. There's a couple different ways to get this off. There are spot welds all the way around, you could start by doing that, in our case we have access to a plasma cutter; that's going to be the easiest way. We’ll have somebody cut along the outside edge here and go all the way around. You can cut it out with a torch, there's other ways to cut it as well, but since we have a plasma cutter and it's the easiest way to do it that's what we're going to use.
Now that we have it completely cut out, we still have to break out the chisel to release some of the welds and stuff around the bottom. We're going to do that next then pull off the tower. Here you can get an idea of where the cross member is actually going to fit now that everything is cut out. Next step is to actually take off all this metal, we got to smooth these all out before we start fitting our cross member.
This is what it should look like when it's done. All the brackets are removed, all the burrs are off; nice and smooth, ready to start fitting our cross member. Rod & Custom includes this diagram with the instructions, basically showing you where your new Rod & Custom cross member is going to fit in our stock Mustang frame rails. We're going to measure it out and mark the frame rails and prepare to install our cross member. What we're doing now is jacking the cross member into place and then we'll line it up with the marks that we made and you'll start tacking it in.
We got the vice grips in place now to hold it while we tack it in place, you want to make sure you double, triple, quadruple check your measurements before you weld it. Once it's in place that's where it's going to be. With the cross member located properly, we have clamps holding it in place, and now we can start welding. Now we're going to put the upper control arms spring pockets into place. You want to get them lined up with the cross member. You want to make sure it's level, then I'm going to tack those in place next, and once they're tacked in then we can go back and pulley weld everything.
That's pretty much it for installing a Rod & Custom cross member into your Mustang. This is obviously the hardest part of the installation. It's the most time-consuming, but it's also important you get it right or the rest of the suspension is just not going to work out. From here, we just bolt on the rest of the components then we can install our shock wave and get our Mustang back on the ground.