Rod & Custom Motorsports Rack and Pinion/Disc Brake Conversion Kit with a Tubular A-Arm System and Coilover Kit for all 1965, 1966, 1967, 1968, 1969, 1970, 1971, 1972 and 1973 Mustangs with a Modular V8 Engine and Manual Steering.
Completely reform the performance of your 1965-1973 Mustang by purchasing this Rack and Pinion/Disc Brake Conversion Kit with a Tubular A-Arm System and Coilover Kit from Rod & Custom Motorsports. Specifically designed for your Modular V8 Engine and Manual Steering assembly, this assembly will significantly improve your Mustang's suspension, steering and brake performance.
Rod & Custom Motorsports provides you with all of the parts & hardware that you'll need to successfully convert your classic Mustang's OE suspension assembly to a more modernized, manual rack & pinion. Not only will you see an immediate improvement in handling and braking, but you'll also be able to solve any potential clearance issues that can sprout from installing a larger V8 engine.
A unique feature of this swap is the coilover spring package that will give you the opportunity to mechanically adjust the ride height and stance of your Mustang. Along with providing even more engine bay clearance, these coilovers will also give you more control while you are behind the wheel so you can hit the corners with ease.
- Adjustable Upper Coilover Mounts
- Four-Piece Upper & Lower Tubular A-Arm Assembly
- Steel Stock Height MII Spindles
- Brake Kit (in Your Choice of Option)
- Manual Rack & Pinion
- Pair of Tie Rod Ends
- Set of Complete Prothane Polyurethane Engine Mounts
- 1" Powder Coated Sway Bay
- Prothane Urethane Anti-Squeak Super Lube
- Driver & Passenger Side Tower Replacement Panels
- Steering Hookup Kit
- Coilover Shocks & Springs
- All Necessary Mounting Hardware
The sway bar included in this kit is has a rust-resistant, powder coated finish and comes with all of the mounting brackets and end links that you'll need. The steering hookup kit includes a new rack joint, column joint, rack-to-column shaft and a column modification kit if your Mustang has an OEM steering column.
- Year of Mustang
- Engine Size
When you purchase this conversion, you'll be required to provide the year of your classic Mustang as well as its engine size. You'll also have a choice on your hands, as this kit is offered with multiple brake options. You'll be able to choose whether you want plain rotors, slotted & drilled rotors or a Wilwood brake kit. The Wilwood brake kit features 11" Dynalite drilled & slotted two-piece vented rotors as well as forged four piston black aluminum calipers. The calipers will allow you to use smaller diameter wheels, letting your vintage Pony be the ultimate sleeper.
Wheel and Tire Fitment Notes:
- For optimum tire clearance CJ Pony Parts strongly recommends no wider than a 7” wheel
- A 7” wide wheel will need to have 4” to 4-1/2” of backspacing
- An 8” wide wheel is possible, but must have custom backspacing
- All 15”, 16” and 17” wheels are acceptable and recommended
- Some 14” wheels will fit with this kit, however most will not
*Available for V8 engines ONLY, Rod & Custom Motorsports does not have motor mounts for the inline 6-cylinder engines.
*A rear sump oil pan is required with this kit.
Warning: This Rod and Custom Front Suspension kit will not work with 14" or 15" 1965-1967 Styled Steel Wheels. The hub portion of the rotor will not fit within the wheel.
Please Note: All components come with a black or bare-steel finish. The picture shows red components for display purposes only.
Tech Tip: Please check the diagram in the installation instructions for 15" wheel fitment.
Go ahead and purchase this Rod & Custom Motorsports Back and Pinion/Disc Brake Conversion Kit with a Tubular A-Arm System and Coilover Kit for your 1965, 1966, 1967, 1968, 1969, 1970, 1971, 1972 or 1973 Mustang with a Modular V8 Engine and Manual Steering from CJ Pony Parts today!
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The Rod & Custom suspension is not for an amateur installer. It's going to require extensive cutting and welding to properly install it. I'm not going to show you a step-by-step, but we’ll give you the basics on how everything goes together. Before you start the job you want to pick up a spot weld cutter, this is the easiest way to get through all the factory spot welds, which are on all three pieces we're going to be removing.
Once the spot welds are cut out of a few other places we'll have to actually cut some welds before we start removing the brackets. Now we're going to grab our chisel and start separating the brackets from the frame. Now we have our strut rod bracket and sway bar bracket removed. We're ready to move onto the shock tower. There's a couple different ways to get this off. There are spot welds all the way around, you could start by doing that, in our case we have access to a plasma cutter; that's going to be the easiest way. We’ll have somebody cut along the outside edge here and go all the way around. You can cut it out with a torch, there's other ways to cut it as well, but since we have a plasma cutter and it's the easiest way to do it that's what we're going to use.
Now that we have it completely cut out, we still have to break out the chisel to release some of the welds and stuff around the bottom. We're going to do that next then pull off the tower. Here you can get an idea of where the cross member is actually going to fit now that everything is cut out. Next step is to actually take off all this metal, we got to smooth these all out before we start fitting our cross member.
This is what it should look like when it's done. All the brackets are removed, all the burrs are off; nice and smooth, ready to start fitting our cross member. Rod & Custom includes this diagram with the instructions, basically showing you where your new Rod & Custom cross member is going to fit in our stock Mustang frame rails. We're going to measure it out and mark the frame rails and prepare to install our cross member. What we're doing now is jacking the cross member into place and then we'll line it up with the marks that we made and you'll start tacking it in.
We got the vice grips in place now to hold it while we tack it in place, you want to make sure you double, triple, quadruple check your measurements before you weld it. Once it's in place that's where it's going to be. With the cross member located properly, we have clamps holding it in place, and now we can start welding. Now we're going to put the upper control arms spring pockets into place. You want to get them lined up with the cross member. You want to make sure it's level, then I'm going to tack those in place next, and once they're tacked in then we can go back and pulley weld everything.
That's pretty much it for installing a Rod & Custom cross member into your Mustang. This is obviously the hardest part of the installation. It's the most time-consuming, but it's also important you get it right or the rest of the suspension is just not going to work out. From here, we just bolt on the rest of the components then we can install our shock wave and get our Mustang back on the ground.