Rod & Custom Rack And Pinion/Disc Brake Conversion Kit With Tubular A-Arm System Manual Steering Push Rod V8 1965-1973

CJ's Part Number: RCK106-V
From:
CJ's Low Price:
$3,149.99
Year of Car
Engine Size
1471996800 42668
Earn 3149 RPM Points What's this?
Rod & Custom Rack And Pinion/Disc Brake Conversion Kit With Tubular A-Arm System Manual Steering Push Rod V8 1965-1973
Rod & Custom Rack And Pinion/Disc Brake Conversion Kit With Tubular A-Arm System Manual Steering Push Rod V8 1965-1973 Rod & Custom Rack And Pinion/Disc Brake Conversion Kit With Tubular A-Arm System Manual Steering Push Rod V8 1965-1973 Rod & Custom Rack And Pinion/Disc Brake Conversion Kit With Tubular A-Arm System Manual Steering Push Rod V8 1965-1973 Rod & Custom Rack And Pinion/Disc Brake Conversion Kit With Tubular A-Arm System Manual Steering Push Rod V8 1965-1973 Rod & Custom Rack And Pinion/Disc Brake Conversion Kit With Tubular A-Arm System Manual Steering Push Rod V8 1965-1973 Play Rod & Custom Rack And Pinion/Disc Brake Conversion Kit With Tubular A-Arm System Manual Steering Push Rod V8 1965-1973 Video 1 Play Rod & Custom Rack And Pinion/Disc Brake Conversion Kit With Tubular A-Arm System Manual Steering Push Rod V8 1965-1973 Video 2 Play Rod & Custom Rack And Pinion/Disc Brake Conversion Kit With Tubular A-Arm System Manual Steering Push Rod V8 1965-1973 Video 3
Rod & Custom Motorsports

Product Description

Rod & Custom Motorsports Rack and Pinion/Disc Brake Conversion Kit with a Tubular A-Arm System for all 1965, 1966, 1967, 1968, 1969, 1970, 1971, 1972 and 1973 Mustangs with a Push Rod V8 Engine and Manual Steering.

Rod & Custom Motorsports understands quality verses affordability. That's why all of Rod & Custom's kits are designed with top grade steel, intense quality control procedures and manufactured with the buyers needs in consideration. With Rod & Custom, you can be confident in knowing you have purchased and installed the highest quality, best fitting, most affordable rack and pinion independent front suspension on the market today!

Kit Includes:
- Crossmember
- Shock Tower Replacement Panels
- Motor Mounts
- Springs
- Shocks
- Upper and Lower Tubular Control Arms with Urethane Bushings
- Manual Steering Rack and Pinion
- Rack Ends and Bushings
- Steering Shaft Kit
- Steering Column Modification Kit
- 11" Front Disc Brake Kit
- Stainless Steel Flex Front Brake Lines
- 1" Front Sway Bar Kit
- Spindles with Nut Kit
- Bearings and Seals

By adding this kit to your Mustang, you will gain more adjustability and better handling from your suspension. You will find an increase in your cornering ability and a much better overall ride quality. This American made kit also completes 2 huge jobs; upgrades your steering and upgrades your front brakes. By using one of these kits you will gain an extra 7" of engine clearance on each side!

Required Information:
- Year of Mustang
- Engine Size

When you make this purchase, you will need to know the year and engine size of your Mustang. You’ll also have the option of choosing whether you desire plain brakes or brakes that are slotted and drilled. A Wilwood brake options is also offered that sees an 11" Dynalite 4-piston kit with black calipers. The calipers themselves are forged four piston aluminum and the rotors are 11" drilled and slotted two-piece vented. Wilwood Dynalite Calipers allow you to use smaller diameter wheels so your Mustang can be the ultimate sleeper.

Wheel and Tire Fitment Notes:
- For optimum tire clearance CJ Pony Parts strongly recommends no wider than a 7” wheel
- A 7” wide wheel will need to have 4” to 4-1/2” of backspacing
- An 8” wide wheel is possible, but must have custom backspacing
- All 15”, 16” and 17” wheels are acceptable and recommended
- Some 14” wheels will fit with this kit, however most will not

*This is available for V8 engines ONLY, as Rod & Custom Motorsports does not have motor mounts for the inline 6-cylinder engines.
*A rear sump oil pan is required with this kit.

Warning: This kit will NOT work with 14" or 15" 1965-1967 styled steel wheels, as the hub portion of the rotor will not fit within the wheel.

Please Note: All components come with a black powder coated or bare-steel finish. The picture shows red components for display purposes only.

Tech Tips: Please check the diagram in the installation instructions for 15" wheel fitment. CJ Pony Parts also uses Fox Body Long Tube Headers when installing this kit on 1965-1973 Mustangs with a 289, 302 or 351W engine.

So go ahead and order this Rod & Custom Motorsports Rack and Pinion/Disc Brake Conversion Kit with a Tubular A-Arm System for your 1965, 1966, 1967, 1968, 1969, 1970, 1971, 1972 or 1973 Mustang with a Push Rod V8 Engine and Manual Steering from CJ Pony Parts today!

Product Reviews

Write a review
  • bvseo_sdk, p_sdk, 3.1.0
  • CLOUD, getContent, 189.93ms
  • REVIEWS, PRODUCT
  • bvseo-msg: HTTP status code of 403 was returned;

Product Questions

Is this a bolt on kit ?

Asked by: Rudy1989
No, the crossmember/cradle needs to be welded to the frame.
Answered by: Rick CJs
Date published: 2016-07-16

Since the kit is replacing the old drum brakes do I need to upgrade the master cylinder or will the stock master cylinder work?

Asked by: Rickmt57
Yes you should upgrade the master cylinder to a disc drum master cylinder.
Answered by: rk cjpp
Date published: 2016-04-20

What is your install price

Asked by: Scott222
Sorry but we do not do installs.
Answered by: rk cjpp
Date published: 2016-01-19

will this work for a right hand drive 67 mustang

Asked by: phillip01
We were not given that information from the manufacturer, you may have to contact them directly.
Answered by: rk cjpp
Date published: 2015-11-17

will this kit rck106-v fit a 1967 fairlanes with a 390

Asked by: badtbird
No clue. We don't test fitments on Fairlanes, so we can't say one way or the other.
Answered by: CJ Pony Parts
Date published: 2015-09-10

Does this set-up change the stock ride height?  If not - are 2" drop spindles available?

Asked by: bsp1969
It will not change the ride height. 2" drop spindles are available. This kit is also available in a separate configuration using adjustable coilovers: http://www.cjponyparts.com/mustang-parts/p/RCK107-V/
Answered by: Rick CJ
Date published: 2015-09-01

Is it offered for 4 bolt hubs and an inline 6cyl.

Asked by: Trebilroad
Unfortunately, they are only available for V8s and will convert you to 5-lug.
Answered by: CJ Pony Parts
Date published: 2015-07-22

will this set up fit a 64 falcon 

Asked by: drart3812
No, it won't work.
Answered by: CJ Pony Parts
Date published: 2015-07-20
  • 2016-08-24T08:11CST
  • bvseo_cps, prod_bvqa, vn_cps_3.3.0
  • cp_1, bvpage1
  • co_hasquestionsanswers, tq_8
  • loc_en_US, sid_RCK106-V, PRD, sort_recentAnswersFirst
  • clientName_cjponyparts
  • bvseo_sdk, p_sdk, 3.1.0
  • CLOUD, getContent, 228.36ms
  • QUESTIONS, PRODUCT

You Might Also Like

Product Video

Rod & Custom Rack And Pinion/Disc Brake Conversion Kit With Tubular A-Arm System Manual Steering Push Rod V8 1965-1973 Video Transcript
By Bill Tumas: Today on our project 50-30, we're going to get ready to start installing a Rod & Custom front suspension. To do so though we need to remove a few stock components before we can actually start the installation. A Rod & Custom cross member is going to mount right here on the frame rail and go straight across to the other side. It's going to sandwich the frame rail. To install it, we have to remove the complete shock tower assemblies, we also got to more forward, remove the front braces here for our strut rode brackets and also the brackets for the front sway bar. Basically the goal is to get down to just a bare frame rail with the aprons then we can begin the installation.

The Rod & Custom suspension is not for an amateur installer. It's going to require extensive cutting and welding to properly install it. I'm not going to show you a step-by-step, but we’ll give you the basics on how everything goes together. Before you start the job you want to pick up a spot weld cutter, this is the easiest way to get through all the factory spot welds, which are on all three pieces we're going to be removing.

Once the spot welds are cut out of a few other places we'll have to actually cut some welds before we start removing the brackets. Now we're going to grab our chisel and start separating the brackets from the frame. Now we have our strut rod bracket and sway bar bracket removed. We're ready to move onto the shock tower. There's a couple different ways to get this off. There are spot welds all the way around, you could start by doing that, in our case we have access to a plasma cutter; that's going to be the easiest way. We’ll have somebody cut along the outside edge here and go all the way around. You can cut it out with a torch, there's other ways to cut it as well, but since we have a plasma cutter and it's the easiest way to do it that's what we're going to use.

Now that we have it completely cut out, we still have to break out the chisel to release some of the welds and stuff around the bottom. We're going to do that next then pull off the tower. Here you can get an idea of where the cross member is actually going to fit now that everything is cut out. Next step is to actually take off all this metal, we got to smooth these all out before we start fitting our cross member.

This is what it should look like when it's done. All the brackets are removed, all the burrs are off; nice and smooth, ready to start fitting our cross member. Rod & Custom includes this diagram with the instructions, basically showing you where your new Rod & Custom cross member is going to fit in our stock Mustang frame rails. We're going to measure it out and mark the frame rails and prepare to install our cross member. What we're doing now is jacking the cross member into place and then we'll line it up with the marks that we made and you'll start tacking it in.

We got the vice grips in place now to hold it while we tack it in place, you want to make sure you double, triple, quadruple check your measurements before you weld it. Once it's in place that's where it's going to be. With the cross member located properly, we have clamps holding it in place, and now we can start welding. Now we're going to put the upper control arms spring pockets into place. You want to get them lined up with the cross member. You want to make sure it's level, then I'm going to tack those in place next, and once they're tacked in then we can go back and pulley weld everything.

That's pretty much it for installing a Rod & Custom cross member into your Mustang. This is obviously the hardest part of the installation. It's the most time-consuming, but it's also important you get it right or the rest of the suspension is just not going to work out. From here, we just bolt on the rest of the components then we can install our shock wave and get our Mustang back on the ground.