Roush Textured Black Quad Tip Rear Valance for all 2015, 2016 and 2017 Premium Edition Mustangs without Rear Park Assist Sensors.
If you own a 2015-2017 Premium model Mustang without Rear Park Assist Sensors and plan on installing Roush's quad tip exhaust, this all-new textured black rear valance from Roush is a must have! Not only will this rear valance add an aggressive look to the backside of your 2015-2017 Mustang, but it's going to provide much larger openings to accommodate the dual exhaust tips on both sides so you won't have to cut your factory valance.
This rear valance from Roush is designed to mount in the factory locations and comes in a factory-like, black textured finish to match the other body components. All of Roush's exterior upgrades, such as this rear valance, are precision engineered using CAD/CAM design and are manufactured with the same processes that the top automotive manufacturers use for OEM quality, appearance, durability and fitment.
*Fits Premium Model Mustangs only.
How well do you want your new 2015-2017 Mustang to look and perform? With any of the parts from Roush Performance, you can give it a major performance overhaul, and add some visual styling that will truly make your Mustang stand apart from the rest.
Order a Roush Textured Black Quad Tip Rear Valance for your 2015-2017 Premium Edition Mustang without Rear Park Assist Sensors from CJ Pony Parts today!
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Product ReviewsWrite a review
The roush website says part #421894 will fit cars with package 300a. Will this fit as well?
HI I can only see 2 pipes on one side I presume their is 2 on the other side as well.... CHEERS
What is the width of the holes for the exhaust tips to come out of? I'm looking to use this in a custom system but need 7.5"s
Seems like too much work just to have quad tips.! I just about died after seeing the tools required to install this.. any plans making this Roush Rear Valance Quad Tip Textured fit on the premium packg without drilling and stuff .. thanks
Hello, I got the 2015 GT Base model, and want the grey black look on the bottom of the rear end, the GT Base is all paint color, not like the GT premium. All that said, I am looking for something like this just just works with the single exhaust setup, ?
Will they make one for the base?
Hi, how would i know if my mustang comes with or without parking sensors ? keep in mind that i have bought it last week and was shipped but i didn't received it yet ... it is an Eco-boost premium but are there any ways i could find out sbefore it comes ?
Is there a way to make this work if I have parking assist sensors on my bumper?
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This is the ROUSH quad tip exhaust we're going to be installing on our 2015 Mustang GT today. ROUSH calls this their passive system. It's actually a very unique system for them. Like all of their systems, it is T304 stainless steel, featuring mandrel bends. The muffler is a wide open design. You actually have the dual tips. One of them comes with a block off plate. You have two options. You can run with just one exhaust open, which will give you a nice aggressive sound but not overly loud. If you want to go full boat, you take off this plate, put on a pipe like this that will flow through, and you actually have four exhausts at the same time. You can make the system a lot louder. No matter which direction you choose to go with, you'll have no drone at all. We're going to start by installing the valance, and then we'll show you how to install the exhaust.
Before beginning installation, I want to stress again, this will only fit a Premium GT. If you're not sure if your car is a Premium, simply look at the rear bumper. You have to have a secondary plastic piece, separate from the painted surface. If this is all painted one color. This is not a premium. This kit will not work. As long as you have the black plastic separate piece in here, you're good to go and you can begin the installation.
For this installation, we need a lift or a jack and jack stands, a quarter inch ratchet, seven millimeter socket, eight millimeter socket, ten millimeter socket, 3/8 ratchet, 13 millimeter socket, 14 millimeter socket, 15 millimeter socket, 10 inch extension, 17 millimeter wrench, 1/4 inch ratcheting wrench, T20 TORX bit, T25 TORX bit, tape measure, marker, center punch, sawzall, dremel with cutting wheel, drill, eighth inch drill bit, 3/16 drill bit, half inch drill bit, 17/32 drill bit, safety glasses, scissors, tape, and a file.
Before we start on the valance, we're going to cut off the factory exhaust and get it out of the way to give ourselves a little bit more room. As you can see, we're installing this on a converter which has additional bracing underneath. ROUSH provides instructions in their kit for a convertible. The instructions basically state this has to go away. If you're okay with doing that, it will [inaudible 00:02:45] convertible. We're going to suggest probably using this on a fast back for that reason, because the bracing is there for a reason. If you're comfortable without using that, it will fit your convertible.
Now we're going to measure to cut. You're going to measure from the muffler back past this curve here. That's where we're going to cut. The measurement provided by ROUSH is 20.37 for the convertible. Make sure you have the correct measurements, because the fast back convertible actually cut about two inches different. Make sure you have the right one. A lot of us, including myself, probably don't have any of the measure .37 inches. What we're going to do, we're going to measure to a third. That will get us in the neighborhood. Then we'll take a second measurement from the curve, and as long as we're close enough, we'll be okay. The ROUSH measurement provided from the curve is 3.93 inches. Again, kind of hard to measure that. What we're going to do is make sure we're a hair under four and we should be okay. Yep. Should be good right there. Now we cut.
Before I cut it, I just want to measure one more thing. This is probably common sense, but because of the measurements, and because we're sort of estimating, make sure you estimate on the longer side. Obviously, you can always make the metal shorter if we're too long. We can't add metal, so if you're going to err, err on the longer side. Well, the pipe is cut. Now we're going to move the two bolts for the rear hangers and remove the muffler.
The exhaust off, now we can remove the rear bumper so we can install the quad tip valves. To do so, we're going to start in the trunk. We've got to remove these four plastic retainers to remove this, and then move on to the tail lights. These plastic retainers, simply remove them by hand by unthreading them. Then kind of pull up and out on the panel to remove it. There's three nuts that hold each of the tail lights in. If you have a car equipped with a factory subwoofer, you do have to remove it to get to the third bolt. To do so, remove this bolt here. There will be three screws down here to remove this panel, and then two more bolts down below.
With that out of the way, now remove this plastic plug on the top. You can slide this back to access the nut. With the tail light loose, now you want to reach down and unplug the harness. We can carefully pull the tail light out. Grab this rubber plug and just pull. Bring the harness through with it. I'm going to repeat the process on the driver's side, which is much easier to do, because we don't have the subwoofer in the way.
Now move out of the trunk and down to the actual rear quarter panel wheel well section here. We have to remove the well liner to get to the hardware. There's one clip located here, then two push pins located here and here. They look like a normal Christmas tree clip, but they're actually a two piece clip like the other one. You want to separate the center and pull out, then the whole thing will come off. Then you just want to sort of bend the cover in so we'll put it behind the tire so it's out of the way.
The wheel liner out of the way, there's three seven millimeter screws you need to remove. One downward, and these two facing back. Then you repeat the process on the other side, and we're going to move underneath the car. Underneath the car there's going to be six more push pins. Two on each side, two towards the middle, and then two bolts in the middle we have to remove. Then there's two more sevens in the middle. Before we start pulling the cover off, just reach up and disconnect the marker lights and the back up light. Now we're going to remove the last two screws on each side. Once that's released, you can pop the bumper free. There's two clips right in the corner here near the tail light. You want to be careful in pulling them off. Once you have it off, disconnect the harness.
We have a template taped on so we can draw the holes to mount the valance to our factory bumper. We didn't mention, our car has backup sensors. By the time you see this video, ROUSH is actually going to introduce a new valance, specifically for a backup sensor car, so the template will be a little bit different, and there will be brackets for those as well. For now we're going to drill the holes and mount the valance the normal way by marking all these and punching them. The two outermost holes get drilled with a quarter inch drill bit, and then the other 13 across the middle get drilled with a 3/16th.
Now you want to grab some alcohol. We're going to start by cleaning the surface of the bumper where the valance is going to mount. Then we're going to clean the valance itself so we can install double stick tape. Then we're going to clean the valance itself from ROUSH. Basically you're going to stick to these ridges right across the middle here. Peel back the white side of the double stick and put that on the valance. Now on both sides of the valance, you want to grab the studs and put it in the outer middle hole here. You thread it in until one inch is visible. It's easier to put the nut on. That makes it a lot easier to thread in.
Once you have the stud in on both sides, you want to basically pull back the red part of the double stick tape. Just leave a little flag up here. That will make it easier to get the tape off once the valance is installed to our bumper. The studs we just installed are going to two larger holes we drilled on the bumper cover. What you want to do is line up the stud on both sides and push it through. If you have it lined up right, then you'll notice that now the valance is sitting flush with our bumper. Once you have both sides through, install one of the supplied washers. Put the nut down. Just tighten it down until it's snug. It's not going to get really tight. Once you feel the valance is snug against the bumper, that's going to be tight enough.
Now we're going to loosely install the rest of the screws to go across the center. You want to use a punch or a small pick, just to make sure they're lined up. With all the fasteners in but not tight, now we're going to remove our double stick tape. You're going to grab the little flag that you left there. Put it face down. Once the tape is seeded, we're going to go back through and tighten everything down. On the two studs on the ends, we're going to put a couple of dabs of Loctite on there.
Now you're going to repair the extensions. You want to grab the supplied adhesion promoter. Just put it on the edge here. Then we're going to install double stick tape. Next grab the three J clips we removed from our factory bumper cover. Slide them on these three holes. Then we're going to slide it into place, and we're going to reinstall the factory screws. Once you have them loosely, then reach in and pull off the tape we installed earlier. Press that out so it's attached, and then tighten down the screws. Then repeat the process on the other side.
When the valance is mounted to the bumper cover, we're ready to reinstall the bumper support. Before we can install the plastic bumper support with the wiring, we have to remove this tab here. It's actually going to get in the way of the quad tips. It clears the factory exhaust, but won't clear the quad tips we're installing. We're going to pop this clip off, cut this off, and relocate the harness. Then we're going to drill a quarter inch hole in here to relocate the harness. Push it back through and cut off about three quarters of the excess, just enough to keep it in place.
Before we install the bumper support inside, you want to install your reflectors. Reinstall the speed nuts for the reflectors. These will cut into the plastic, so they don't have to be real tight. Just get them snug. Reinstall our back up light. We're going to reinstall the bumper cover reinforcement, all the electrical connections. Then I'm going to use the ROUSH supplied adapters to connect the bumper support to the new valance. You're going to start by putting the J clip over this hole here. Take the supply bracket and put it between the two of them, and thread it in here. Just get it hand tight for now until everything's lined up. With that started, now we can tighten everything down.
Now you're going to reinstall the bumper on the car. Start by reconnecting the harness. With the bumper back in place, we're going to go underneath and reinstall the hardware we removed. With the bumper installed, now we can reinstall the tail lights in our shaker before we move onto the actual exhaust install.
Okay, now we have our valance installed to our stock bumper and we put the car back up into the air to install our ROUSH Axel back. The ROUSH is going to come with the block off plate installed, so if you want to open it up, you do want to remove that and then install this. What we're going to do is install it with the block off plate. We're going to give you some sound clips, then we're going to swap it out for the open element style, and we'll give you some more sound clips.
You want to measure 22.54, so roughly 22 and a half on one side, and 22.88, so just under 23 on the other. Because of the size and the weight of the muffler used in the quad tip conversion, ROUSH provides an extra hanger. What you need to do is use the template provided and drill two holes up here in the front of the rail to mount the extra hanger. The template's the same for both sides. It's going to mount right here. What you want to do is pretty much center it, but make sure this edge lines up here with the curve going over. Then we're going to punch our center holes.
We're going to start with an eighth inch pilot hole, then use our uni bit to open it up. Then finally we're going to be using a 17/32 drill bit, which is the exact size you need for this installation. I didn't have one. There's a good possibility you don't as well. You do want to pick this up before hand. Going a size bigger or smaller will not work.
Since we have bare metal where these holes are, it's a good idea to grab a small bit of clear coat or a little bit of primer, just to clean up the holes.
We're going to be installing these threaded inserts which will hold the hardware to hold up our hanger. It's going to be a really good test of your forearm strength. Basically what you do, this kit is supplied by ROUSH, you're going to thread this into the insert. You're going to put the insert in the hole we just drilled, hold this with a 17 millimeter wrench, and then turn this bolt here. Basically crush that down and make it tight inside the hole. What you do, is once it gets tight, just thread the bolt off. The bolt and nut will come off, and the insert will stay behind. The hole is done now. We can put the bracket into place. Use the supplied bolts and tighten it down
With the new ROUSH muffler on the ground, we're going to start by installing the clamps. The clamps for the mid-pipe are specific. There are four smaller clamps for the tips, and two slightly larger ones for the mid-pipe. Install that. Reinstall the original hanger here, and the new hanger back here. Now we're ready to put it up into place. We're going to start with the far back hanger. Put that first up into the factory hanger, then this one here. Connect the pipe and hook this up. Reinstall the bolt for the middle hanger here. Now go through, adjust, and tighten everything down.
With everything tightened, we can install the tips. If you look on the edges of the mufflers, there's actually going to be a line showing the best place to align them when you put them on. Repeat the process on the other side, and your installation is finished.
All right, the system looks great. Let's see how it sounds with the block off plates still in place. Definitely a deeper tone and idle. It's got a nice tone to it. It's louder than the factory exhaust. Definitely not overwhelming. We'll take it for a drive, then we'll bring it back. We'll pull off the block off plates.
Getting out on the road with the ROUSH exhaust, the quad tips installed with the block off plates still in, the system is pretty quiet. It's a little bit of a deeper tone. I'd say a little more volume than stock, but not really noticeable. Honestly, that's kind of to be expected. I mean, this is a system that comes when you buy a brand new ROUSH from the factory. When you're dealing with a car that's sold off the showroom floor, it's not going to have a real aggressive exhaust system from the factory. That's the main reason that ROUSH has the block off plate. They can sell it and have a reasonable tone for people who want it a little bit quieter. If you do want a more aggressive sound, two bolts, pop off the plate, and it's going to be a lot louder. I mean, it still sounds good, but unless you get it over 3500 RPM, it sounds pretty much like a stock exhaust at this point. We know taking off that block off plate is going to make a huge difference.
Right about between three and 3500, you start hearing a noticeable difference in the tone of the exhaust verses the stock one. Cruising speeds right now, we're at the dreaded 2000 RPM on the highway. There's no drone. There's no nothing. I mean, you barely hear it. It sounds like a factory exhaust at this point. It still looks a hell of a lot better, but sounds the exact same as the stock one. Pretty much this is what we did expect from this system. We knew that since it was a production part that comes on the factory ROUSH is, it wasn't going to be terribly loud with the block off plate still installed. Now we're going to head back to the studio. We'll throw it back on our lift. We're going to remove those plates and we'll do this again. I think we're going to have a much different experience.
We got our 15 back on the lift. Now we're going to remove the block off plate to uncork the exhaust, and hopefully we get a much more aggressive sound. Simply remove these two retaining nuts. You should just let the exhaust cool down a little bit before you do this. It can get a little bit warm. Pop the tip off and remove the plate. I'm going to throw the supply gasket on there and reinstall the tip. Okay. Repeat the process on the other side. Let's go fire it off with the plates out.
Now let's try it with the plates out. Immediately, much more volume. Much deeper tone. More aggressive sounding. That's the kind of sound we're used to from ROUSH's after market exhaust. It sounds killer now. Now this is the sound I would have expected from a ROUSH exhaust. This has that aggressive nice tone that we've come to get used to when we talk about ROUSH exhaust systems. Cruising at two grand now. You can hear this system. It doesn't have any drone to it. Nothing like that. I mean, it's definitely totally livable for daily driving, commuting, highway, whatever. Now you hear it. Now you know it's an after market exhaust. It has that bite that you were used to from the sound of ROUSH exhaust systems. Nice aggressive tone. Wide open throttle.
The standard ROUSH Axle Back system for the 2015 with one of our resident elite X pipes, H pipes, either or, has been one of our more popular systems. It really gets down. I have to think that the quad is going to be the same way. This system sounds very similar to the standard ROUSH. Honestly, I think it's a little bit louder. Honestly, I think it's a little bit louder than the standard ROUSH, but it's very close to it. I think with the resonator delete it would be even better. Yeah, I really can't imagine anybody would buy this exhaust system for their 2015 and leave the plates installed. It's one of those things. If you were installing this, I would suggest probably just take them out when you're installing it. If you're looking for any kind of aggressive sound, you're going to be much happier with the plates out then with them installed. We've got a nice tone and idle. A little kind of deep tone. A little kind of a Cam sound almost, but really good sound.
I can't imagine that anybody who is watching this video wouldn't agree that the quad tip conversion looks absolutely killer on our 2015 Mustang. While we did do this installation on a convertible, ROUSH recommends only putting this on a fast back, because of the lower bracing that you do have to remove. If you're comfortable removing that like we did, you can put it on a convertible, but again, we're going to recommend this mostly for fast back use. The installation is going to be time consuming. The Axle Back itself is pretty much business as usual, with the exception of one additional hanger you have to mount. The valance itself is time consuming. You have to cut the bumper, remove it from the car. It's going to take some time. Probably give yourself the better part of a day to do the entire installation, but you'll be back on the road in no time. For more installation videos for your 2015 Mustang, make sure you subscribe to our YouTube channel and check out CJPonyParts.com for the best selection of 2015 Mustang parts.