Scott Drake Constant Voltage Regulator Improved Design 1965-1966

Scott Drake: B9MZ-10804-EADJ
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Scott Drake Constant Voltage Regulator Improved Design 1965-1966
Scott Drake Constant Voltage Regulator Improved Design 1965-1966 Play Scott Drake Constant Voltage Regulator Improved Design 1965-1966 Video 1 Play Scott Drake Constant Voltage Regulator Improved Design 1965-1966 Video 2
Scott Drake

Product Description

Scott Drake Improved Design Constant Voltage Regulator for 1965-1966 Mustangs.

Features an improved design to be more reliable and accurate in varying environments, associated with heat and humidity. Solid state electronic circuitry and variable controls. When this part goes bad, it may cause one or more of the dash gauges to stop working properly. Made in the USA.

*Mounts behind dash gauges.

Similar Mustang Parts

similar Mustang parts More Instrument Panel Area  

Installation Instructions


Difficulty: Easy

Mustang Applications

This product will fit the following Ford Mustang years:

Product Reviews

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Scott Drake Constant Voltage Regulator Improved Design 1965-1966 is rated 4.8 out of 5 by 5.
Rated 4 out of 5 by from I think so?!?!? So I had read other reviews that suggested if your gages weren't working, this would help "bring them back to life." The cost wasn't a whole lot, and I had to break into the dash anyway, so I splurged for the part. My temperature gage was the only thing that wasn't working. This part was installed, and at first nothing, but the lest few trips before the Wisconsin winter shows my temperature gage coming to life! Now did it come to life right away? No. Is it showing signs of life after the regulator was put in? YES! For the cost of the regulator and to get this result, I'd say go for it. No brainer in my mind. So you're out $40 ish on the chance it doesn't work for your classic mustang? No brainer.
Date published: 2015-10-30
Rated 5 out of 5 by from gauges My gas gauge was not working right. Once I put this regulator on everything works great.
Date published: 2015-02-13
Rated 5 out of 5 by from Gauges Work Again! Gauges never worked right before swapping this out. The fuel gauge with not go above 1/4 tank when full and the temp gauge never worked. Installed this Scott Drake version and everything works again! Easy to install as well.
Date published: 2015-01-26
Rated 5 out of 5 by from Perfect Fix After both of my gauges quit working, I replaced the original CVR with this improved Scott Drake CVR and wa-la, they work again. This was a perfect fix for what I needed. CJPP is always my go-to.
Date published: 2015-01-07
Rated 5 out of 5 by from Learned my lesson Great solution to gauge problems....foolishly I tried the "cheaper" versions but they failed quickly. This regulator is still holding put and working great.
Date published: 2015-09-10
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Product Questions


Will this work for my 1964-1/2 Mustang???

Asked by: Norm1964
Answered by: CJPP Dave
Date published: 2016-01-08

Dear air my gauges don't work .is it regolator or  the switch i have to mustang is 66 6 cyl.

Asked by: tzion
The voltage regulator is a good bet to be the problem. This one will fit your 1966.
Answered by: CJ Pony Parts
Date published: 2015-08-31

Will this part work on a 66 T Bird ?

Asked by: 66BirdMan
We haven't tested it. It's designed for Mustangs, so it's very uncertain whether it'll work on a T-Bird.
Answered by: CJ Pony Parts
Date published: 2015-01-27

Have a 66 mustang where all the gauges peg , tried new voltage regulator for instrument cluster but it did not work , can it be because it was not a solid state model , and if si is the one on you web site a solid state?

Asked by: Mark13
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Product Video

Scott Drake Constant Voltage Regulator Improved Design 1965-1966 Video Transcript
By Bill Tumas: If you've been following our Weekend Wrench build, you've seen we've already done some upgrades to our interior, including a new stereo, new dash pad, and a new steering wheel. We initially felt our gauge cluster wasn't really in bad shape, but with all these new parts around it, now it looks positively worn out. So today, we're going to pop that off, put a new bezel and a new lens in.

This is the bezel and the lens we're going to be installing in Weekend Wrench. The bezel has the correct color black textured finish with all the chrome appointments. It has the cutouts for the oil and alternator light, as well as the cutout for your odometer. The lens itself has the two bezels installed for your temp and fuel level gauge, and it also has the red lenses for oil and alternator.

For this installation, the only tool you'll need is a Phillips head screwdriver. If you're choosing to swap out your regulator, you'll also need a 1/4" ratchet, and a 1/4" socket.

We're going to start by removing these six screws that hold our cluster to our dash. We're going to unscrew our speedometer. Sometimes you can get it by hand. If not, you can put a small wrench on there. To remove the cluster from the car, all these wires are going to have to be disconnected from the back. A couple options here. One way, you can label each individual one and where it goes. To me, the easiest thing to do is take a couple of pictures with your cell phone to remember where everything goes. Now you can remove everything. While you have it apart, now's a good time to check all your bulbs to make sure there's nothing burned out, or if you're looking to replace them or even upgrade them.

Now we're going to disassemble our cluster to replace the bezel and the lens. While we're here, we're going to replace the constant voltage regulator, as well. This regulates voltage to your gauges to make them operate properly. If the gauges aren't working, many times this is the reason. Now we'll remove the six screws that hold the bezel to the cluster. We'll get the cluster off. Now you're going to remove the single screw that holds the retaining plate on. We'll use that with our new pieces, and we'll put the originals aside. We'll clean up this plate before we reinstall it. Now we're going to clean up the gauges a little bit, get some of the dust off it before we install our new bezel. While we're at it, our pointers are pretty faded, so we're going to touch that up a little bit as well. We're just going to spread a little bit of Quick Detailer on this brush. It'll streak when you put it on, but it'll dry nice and clean. I'm going to put something behind the pointer to keep it from getting onto the surface of the gauges.

Before we install the lens on the bezel, I want to install these anti-rattle pads so the lens doesn't rattle against the bezel when it's installed. The new ones are a little different design than the original, so you just want to place them anywhere where you think the bezel and lens would contact each other to stop it from rattling. We're going to install our new lens in the bezel, put it over the two mounting tabs and grab your retainer plate. Put these tabs on the outside for that. We're going to install the single screw that holds the plate to the lens. Now we're going to reinstall the cluster to our new bezel and lens. Again, just need to line up all the tabs. Anytime you're screwing into plastic, just make sure you don't over tighten. Just get them snug. And our cluster is ready for reassembly.

We're going to put a towel of some sort down on the steering column to protect the column's pain, and also protect the cluster from getting scratched. You want to access the pictures you took and start plugging everything back in. Once all of our connections are done, we're going to reconnect our speedometer. Once that's connected, we're ready to put it back into our dash.

It's amazing how a simple bezel change completely changes the look of our interior. Sitting in the driver's seat, it looks like we're driving a brand new car now. Installation should only take you around 30 to 45 minutes. You'll be back on the road in no time.