Scott Drake Improved Design Constant Voltage Regulator for 1965-1966 Mustangs.
If your classic 1965-1966 Mustang is having electrical issues, it may be time to replace the voltage regulator in your dash. This Improved Design Constant Voltage Regulator B9MZ-10804-EADJ from Scott Drake is exactly what you need!
This regulator features an improved design to be more reliable and accurate in varying environments associated with heat and humidity, as well as solid state electronic circuitry and variable controls. When this part goes bad, it may cause one or more of the dash gauges to stop working properly. If you're not sure where to start with your pony's gauges, than this is your perfect first step! These regulators from Scott Drake are made of only premium materials, ensuring that they're able to withstand every weather and environment condition and still be durable for years to come. Scott Drake is also proud to announce that the premium materials of this regulator are all made in the U.S.A.
Tech Tip: This Constant Voltage Regulator mounts behind dash gauges.
Scott Drake has become an iconic brand that redefines quality for reproduction and aftermarket Mustang parts for 1964 to present Mustangs, and has become the standard for OEM quality Mustang parts that offer the best fit and durability. CJ Pony Parts offers a large selection of these parts that have become so popular that many customers ask for them by name.
Order a Scott Drake B9MZ-10804-EADJ Improved Design Constant Voltage Regulator for your 1965-1966 Mustang from CJ Pony Parts today!
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Product ReviewsWrite a review
Is this a 12 volt to 6 volt to run the gauges. I need one for a 1955 ford that will do that
Will this CVR work on my 1964 Fairlane?
I replaced my speedo cable and still have a little bounce in the needle. Would changing this help that at all?
Will this work for my 1964-1/2 Mustang???
Dear air my gauges don't work .is it regolator or the switch i have to replace.my mustang is 66 6 cyl.
Will this part work on a 66 T Bird ?
Have a 66 mustang where all the gauges peg , tried new voltage regulator for instrument cluster but it did not work , can it be because it was not a solid state model , and if si is the one on you web site a solid state?
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This is the bezel and the lens we're going to be installing in Weekend Wrench. The bezel has the correct color black textured finish with all the chrome appointments. It has the cutouts for the oil and alternator light, as well as the cutout for your odometer. The lens itself has the two bezels installed for your temp and fuel level gauge, and it also has the red lenses for oil and alternator.
For this installation, the only tool you'll need is a Phillips head screwdriver. If you're choosing to swap out your regulator, you'll also need a 1/4" ratchet, and a 1/4" socket.
We're going to start by removing these six screws that hold our cluster to our dash. We're going to unscrew our speedometer. Sometimes you can get it by hand. If not, you can put a small wrench on there. To remove the cluster from the car, all these wires are going to have to be disconnected from the back. A couple options here. One way, you can label each individual one and where it goes. To me, the easiest thing to do is take a couple of pictures with your cell phone to remember where everything goes. Now you can remove everything. While you have it apart, now's a good time to check all your bulbs to make sure there's nothing burned out, or if you're looking to replace them or even upgrade them.
Now we're going to disassemble our cluster to replace the bezel and the lens. While we're here, we're going to replace the constant voltage regulator, as well. This regulates voltage to your gauges to make them operate properly. If the gauges aren't working, many times this is the reason. Now we'll remove the six screws that hold the bezel to the cluster. We'll get the cluster off. Now you're going to remove the single screw that holds the retaining plate on. We'll use that with our new pieces, and we'll put the originals aside. We'll clean up this plate before we reinstall it. Now we're going to clean up the gauges a little bit, get some of the dust off it before we install our new bezel. While we're at it, our pointers are pretty faded, so we're going to touch that up a little bit as well. We're just going to spread a little bit of Quick Detailer on this brush. It'll streak when you put it on, but it'll dry nice and clean. I'm going to put something behind the pointer to keep it from getting onto the surface of the gauges.
Before we install the lens on the bezel, I want to install these anti-rattle pads so the lens doesn't rattle against the bezel when it's installed. The new ones are a little different design than the original, so you just want to place them anywhere where you think the bezel and lens would contact each other to stop it from rattling. We're going to install our new lens in the bezel, put it over the two mounting tabs and grab your retainer plate. Put these tabs on the outside for that. We're going to install the single screw that holds the plate to the lens. Now we're going to reinstall the cluster to our new bezel and lens. Again, just need to line up all the tabs. Anytime you're screwing into plastic, just make sure you don't over tighten. Just get them snug. And our cluster is ready for reassembly.
We're going to put a towel of some sort down on the steering column to protect the column's pain, and also protect the cluster from getting scratched. You want to access the pictures you took and start plugging everything back in. Once all of our connections are done, we're going to reconnect our speedometer. Once that's connected, we're ready to put it back into our dash.
It's amazing how a simple bezel change completely changes the look of our interior. Sitting in the driver's seat, it looks like we're driving a brand new car now. Installation should only take you around 30 to 45 minutes. You'll be back on the road in no time.