Scott Drake Front Disc Brake Conversion Kit for all 1965-1966 Mustangs with a 6-Cylinder Engine and 4-Lug Wheels.
Does your 1965-1966 Mustang with a 6-cylinder engine still have the lower-quality drum brake system that it came with? Are you looking to upgrade to a disc brake system, but still want to maintain the authenticity of your classic, 1965-1966 Mustang? Scott Drake makes a reproduction of the original disc brake system that came factory with some 1965-1966 Mustangs, which they sell in a complete conversion kit. CJ Pony Parts has the Scott Drake DBC-6466-6 Front Disc Brake Conversion Kit for your 1965-1966 Mustang with a 6-Cylinder engine and 4-Lug wheels available to order today!
Features and Benefits:
- High-quality Scott Drake reproduction of 1965-1966 factory disc brake system
- Includes single-piston calipers for the 1965-1966 Mustang with 6-Cyl engine
- 10.5" rotor
- Fits all 1965-1966 Mustangs with 6-Cyl engine and 4-lug wheels
- Better stopping performance, increased safety
- Easily cooled discs and less overheating
- Less prone to brake fade
- Replace brakes less often
- Easy future brake replacement
- Kit comprised of all-new parts for the driver side and passenger side
- Uses original spindles for easier installation
- No cores required
This high-quality, Scott Drake Front Disc Brake Conversion Kit is an exact reproduction of the original, factory disc brake setup that came with some of the 1965-1966 Mustangs with a 6-cyl engine and 4-lug wheels of those years. This front disc brake conversion kit features single-piston calipers and a 10.5" rotor.
Upgrading to disc brakes from your stock drum brakes means better stopping performance. Compared to drum brakes, disc brakes cool more easily, meaning the brake components don’t overheat as often. This prevents brake fade, and it increases the safety of your 1965-1966 Mustang with a 6-Cyl engine. Less brake fade means having to replace your brakes less often. When you do have to replace your brakes, disc brakes are much easier to swap out than drum brakes. This kit is comprised of all-new parts and no cores are required. It includes everything you need at the spindles
Please Note: This kit does not include instructions. Recommended for individuals familiar with basic brake systems.
*Does not fit original 14-inch by 5-inch wheels.
*Does not include a new master cylinder or a proportioning valve.
Order a Scott Drake DBC-6466-6 Front Disc Brake Conversion Kit for your 1965-1966 Mustang with a 6-Cylinder engine and 4-Lug wheels from CJ Pony Parts today!
Product ReviewsWrite a review
Can replacement pads be ordered for this kit?
will it fit a 71 maverick 4 lug 6 cylinders or do you have a kit for it?
What Wheels I have to use with this brakes ?
Which front disc brake conversion kit is appropriate for a 1965 Mustang, 6 cylinder, manual transmission, with 14" rims? Do your kits require a proportioning valve?
I see it does not work with 14"x 5" wheels but will it work with 14"x 6" wheels? Also, does it require a new master cylinder and proportioning valve?
I have a 1972 maverick with 4 lug drum brakes on the front. Do you make a kit to convert these to 4 lug disk?
will this kit fit with the 15x 6 magnum 400 repro wheels? http://www.cjponyparts.com/legendary-wheel-co-magnum-400-alloy-wheel-15-x6-charcoal-machined-4-lug-1965-1973/p/W942-V/
Is there an adapter kit for bolting 5 bolt wheels to this kit
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Today we're going to finish off the front brake upgrades on our 1965 Coupe by installing this Disc Brake Conversion Kit from Scott Drake. This Conversion Kit from Scott Drake is going to fit your 1964 through 1966 Mustang with a six-cylinder original four lug setup. It includes brand new original style calipers, all necessary brackets, hardware, and hoses for installation, along with a set of brand new brake rotors.
For this installation you'll need a lift or a jack and jack stands, a 1/2" ratchet, 15/16" socket, 3/8" ratchet, 9/16" socket, 10mm socket, 3/8" Allen key, a 5/8" wrench, a 9/16" wrench, a 3/8" line wrench, small flathead screwdriver, channel locks, cutters, rotary tool, hammer, and safety glasses.
We're going to start by getting the car off the ground and remove both the front wheels. Then we're going to remove the dust cap from the drums and start disassembling the drum brakes. Cap off, now squeeze the cotter pin. Now we're going to remove the retaining nut. Now get the washer and bearing out, just give the drum a good tap and they'll pop right out. With everything out of the way we can shimmy the drum off.
This time we're going to attempt to disconnect the brake line. Ours has been on here probably since original, since everything is undercoated over here. This is a line you'll want to take a look at before you really begin the installation because you may want to end up replacing this. In our case we already have a new line, so we plan on replacing it, but if not you want to try to disconnect this here. Sometimes it can get stuck, end up turning the line and damaging it. Our line is beyond repair at this point so we're just going to cut it.
Now we're going to work on the retainer. Kind of the same issue here. Lots of undercoating on it, we'll get some of the way first. Then remove the clip. With the line disconnected, now we can work on removing the backing plate. It's held on by four bolts, two down here and one two up top here. With the nuts off the back of the bolts now we can remove the backing plate with the drum. We're going to clean this surface here then as well. Remove any remnants of the gasket.
Then you want to grab a disc and clean the surface. With everything off and cleaned up, now you can grab the caliper mounting bracket. Line that up with the factory holes. Okay and then tighten them down. We're ready to start assembling the rotor. You want to grab this seal, remove this metal ring, the tapered side is going to go inward. Let's put that on first. Now what you'll want to do is properly grease the bearing by getting a good amount of grease in your hand, just work it through. If you have a bearing packer, great use it. Most of you may not, this is going to be the old school way to do it. Make sure you work it in and out of the bearing so it pushes through. Once it's greased up now you can put it in the back of the rotor. Then put the seal on top of it.
Now I'm going to grease the spindle up. We'll put the rotor on, and now grease the smaller bearing. Same process. Work the grease through the bearing, makes sure it gets inside and out of all the rollers. Kind of make sure you sort of spin the rollers in your hand and push the grease through them. Now I can put the smaller bearing in. Install the washer and the retaining nut.
Okay with everything tight now we can install the cotter pin. Then finally, the grease cap. Before we install the caliper, we're going to put a little caliper grease up here in the bracket. I can put the caliper up into place. Now we're going to install the banjo bolt with the line, put one washer on each side of line. With everything else done now we can connect the brake line, put the hose up into place. Slide the retainer in, and tighten the brake line. Okay repeat the process on the other side, bleed your brakes, and your installation's finished.
If you're looking to build a quality driver like we are with your six-cylinder Mustang the Disc Brake Kit from Scott Drakes can be a perfect choice. I should mention this kit is four lug, will work with an aftermarket four lug wheel. It will not clear the original 13s. You got to have at least a 14 inch wheel and some of those won't even work, so you want to check and make sure you have the right wheels before you get the kit. If you're looking to convert to a five lug they actually make the exact same kit in a five lug will give you a lot more wheel options. Four wheel installation's pretty straightforward, taking between three and four hours and be back on the road in no time.