Scott Drake Green LED Gauge Light Kit for all 1979, 1980, 1981, 1982, 1983, 1984, 1985, 1986, 1987, 1988, 1989, 1990, 1991, 1992 and 1993 Mustangs.
Now available from Scott Drake is this super high-tech ultra-bright instrument panel LED bulb kit. Dash lights came extremely dim from the factory and could definitely use an upgrade. Scott Drake's LED bulbs are three to four times brighter than old original incandescent bulbs. This kit is specifically designed for factory Mustang gauges making this a true plug-and-play kit.
- Six Gauge Illumination Bulbs
- One High Beam Indicator Bulb
- Two Turn Signal Indicator Bulbs
- Three Warning Lamp Bulbs
The twelve bulb instrument panel kit includes everything you need to brighten your dash area. You will no longer have to worry about being able to only see parts of your tachometer or speedometer. Scott Drake's kit features the absolute latest in LED technology. This kit provides better brightness, reliability and evenness of lighting while operating at a much cooler temperature. Available in blue, green, red or white.
*The brake warning light is NOT replaced.
Scott Drake has become an iconic brand that redefines quality for reproduction and aftermarket Mustang parts for 1964 to present Mustangs, and has become the standard for OEM quality Mustang parts that offer the best fit, durability and quality. CJ Pony Parts offers more than 1,600 Scott Drake parts that have become so popular that many customers ask for them by name. Once you try their parts on your Mustang, we're sure you will too.
Order a Scott Drake LED Gauge Light Kit for your 1979, 1980, 1981, 1982, 1983, 1984, 1985, 1986, 1987, 1988, 1989, 1990, 1991, 1992 or 1993 Mustang from CJ Pony Parts today!
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The LED gauge kit includes all the bulbs necessary for your '79 through '93 gauge cluster. It includes bulbs for the gauges themselves, available in white, blue, green, or red backlight. It also includes bulbs for your warning lights, your high beam indicator, as well as your turn signals.
For this installation you'll need a Phillips head screwdriver, small flathead screwdriver, a quarter inch ratchet, eight millimeter socket, right angle driver, and a T20 TORX bit.
To install the bulbs, obviously we've got to remove the cluster. We're going to start by removing our steering column trim, then our lower trim panels, and then finally the gauge cluster housing. The column trim is held on by two screws. This part here will be held in by three bolts. Pop that off. Now, we'll remove the metal plate, its bolt is located here and another one over on this side. There's a support brace attached to the column trim that has one Phillips head screw, located right here. Now, I'll remove the top two screws that hold the housing to the dash.
Before we can pull off the cluster trim, we've got to remove the switches. Using a small screwdriver, just go behind the back and pop them out. Now, we're going to remove the housing. Now, we're going to remove the cluster from the car by removing these four screws around the outside edge here. Make sure you remove the screws that are on the white tabs. The other screws hold the bezel and the lens together. We're going to reach behind it and disconnect the plugs and the speedometer. Then remove our cluster.
Once you have your cluster out, if you look carefully on the back of the circuit board, each bulb is labeled for what it is. We're going to start with the illumination bulbs, which are located here, here, two in the middle, and two on the end. Each one of them has "ILL" written right next to it. Simply turn it to remove it. Remove the old bulb, install one of our new LED bulbs, and reinstall.
Modern bulbs are going to be polarized. What that means is if you install it and it does not work, you got to remove it, flip it 180 degrees, and reinstall it. There's two ways you can test your board. You can install all the bulbs, plug it back in the car and see which ones work. The other way is to take test leads hooked up to a 12 volt battery, figure out which terminal is ground, and then put it on the corresponding ground on the circuit board.
We figured out that this terminal here is going to be ground. If you look at our circuit board, on this side of where it says illumination, if you follow the board up, you'll see it says "GND" for ground. That's the grounded side, so if we install that on that side, it should work.
Next, we'll replace our check engine, low oil and low coolant lights. Next we'll replace the two turn signals, as well as our high beam indicator. We're ready to reinstall in our Mustang. I'll reinstall the cluster. Before we put it all back together, we're going to plug in our headlight switch. We're going to see if everything works. We're going to make sure you reconnect your speedometer. Now that we've tested everything and plugged the speedometer in, we can reassemble our cluster. Put the housing back on next. Make sure you fish the harnesses up through for the switches. Now put the lower screw in.
With that, your installation is finished. Our LED cluster lights made a 20 year old cluster look better than new. Installation should take you only around an hour. You'll be back on the road in no time.