Scott Drake Rubber Shifter Bucket Plug for all 1965, 1966, 1967, 1968, 1969, 1970, 1971, 1972 and 1973 Mustangs.
If you're restoring a classic 1965-1973 Mustang, then you probably already know that the small parts are just as important as the big ones! So make sure you pick up this Scott Drake Shifter Bucket Plug when you're replacing your shifter housing components!
This Scott Drake C5ZZ-7C147-B Rubber Shifter Bucket Plug is a quality reproduction that's made out of molded rubber. This plug will seal the access hole in the side of your Mustang's shift housing to help keep debris out, and it's meant to be used for automatic transmissions. You should replace all of your vintage Mustang's plugs and seals on occasion to ensure they're working properly.
Scott Drake has become an iconic brand that redefines quality for reproduction and aftermarket Mustang parts and has become the standard for OEM quality Mustang parts that offer the best fit, durability and quality. CJ Pony Parts offers many Scott Drake parts that have become so popular many customers ask for them by name. Once you try their parts on your Mustang, we're sure you will too!
Order a Scott Drake C5ZZ-7C147-B Rubber Shifter Bucket Plug for your 1965, 1966, 1967, 1968, 1969, 1970, 1971, 1972 or 1973 Mustang from CJ Pony Parts today!
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Here were can see how much play out shifter has. This is actually in park, but we can move it back and forth as well as side to side. First step in rebuilding the shifter is to remove the shifter housing from the car. To do that, we're going to start by disconnecting the shifter linkage underneath. We're going to remove the shifter arm from the transmission linkage located right here. Some of your early models, you got to pull a clip and slide it right out. On this model, we're going to unbolt it from this side here, so we're going to mark the linkage before we remove it. We'll remove the bolt. Then, we'll disconnect it from the linkage. Before we move on to the interior, you'll want to disconnect the wiring harness for the shifter, which is found right up in here.
Now, we're back in the interior. We're going to start by removing this shift handle from the shift lever. This small little retaining screw in the back here that you need to remove. We need to remove the console so we can access the shift plate to get the shifter out of the car. We're going to remove the screws that hold the shifter plate to the transmission tunnel. We're going to remove the four bolts that hold the shift bucket to the transmission tunnel. We can remove our stock shifter.
Now that we have the shifter on the bench, we're going to start by removing this plate here to access the bottom of the shifter. We're going to remove the light bulb from the housing up here fist. Then, remove this lower nut. We'll pry the lever off the arm and remove the lever from the bucket. Normally at this point, there'd be the remnants of some sort of bushing in this opening on both sides. In our case, there's nothing whatsoever, which explains all the slop on our factory shifter. Let me get the bucket cleaned up and install some new bushings.
I'm going to remove the ground, then I'm going to remove our wiring harness. Remove the lower seal and we'll get this cleaned up before we reinstall it. Now that we've got everything cleaned up, we're ready to begin reassembly. You notice on our shift handle, our indicator's broken off. We're going to go with this new piece from Scott Drake before we reassemble it. We'll need to remove this tiny metal plate-the original indicator and install that on the Scott Drake piece before you put it back on the handle. We'll reinstall our wiring harness. Reinstall the ground.
Now we're ready to reinstall our new bushings. We're going to start by putting some grease in this opening here before we put the bushing in place. Squeeze the bushing and slide it into place. We'll install the inner bushing. We're ready to reinstall our handle. We're going to start by putting some grease on the lever. Then, we'll put the lever through the new bushings. Line up the handle. Then, we install the retaining nut. We'll reinstall the light bulb for our shifter. The light bulb, the bucket seal, and the shield here are all available new if you need to replace them. Ours are all in good shape, so we're going to stick with our originals. Reinstall the seal. The last step is to install the lower shield. Make sure it goes under the indicator. We're ready to reinstall our shifter back into our car.
We're going to reinstall the shifter the same way we took it out. Start by fishing the harness down into bottom. We're going to reinstall this trim plate. Now we can reinstall the console top plate. I'm going to make sure this opening and the push button is visible in the T-handle when you reinstall it. That has to line up with this piece here to be able to shift the car properly. Once you determine the button works properly, you're going to retighten down the set screw.
Before we go back under the car to hook up the shift linkage, make sure your shifter's in park. That'll be the easiest gear to find under the car. We'll fish the shift light back up here and reconnect it. Now, we're back under the car. We left the shifter in park. You want to pull back on the shift linkage. Make sure it is also in park, which it is. Then reinstall it on the stud. It lines up perfect with our marks and now we're ready to tighten it back down. Our installation's finished.
Before we get the car off the lifter, off the jack stands, you want to make sure the shifter is indeed, engaging properly with the transmission. Start the car. Make sure the tires are off the ground. Try reverse and drive. Start with reverse, neutral, and now drive. Back in park. It's amazing the difference two plastic bushing make. Our shifter goes in gear exactly like it's supposed to. All of our play is completely gone. Installation should take you around an hour and a half. You'll be back on the road in no time.