Skyjacker 2" Leveling Kit for 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015 and 2016 F-150s.
Give your 2009-2016 Ford F-150 a proper look by installing this Skyjacker (F920MS) 2” Leveling Kit! Your factory truck sits lower in the front than the back, due to the weight of the engine, causing your F-150 to look somewhat off. You can easily correct this problem with a Skyjacker leveling kit!
- Front Metal Strut Spacers
- Mounting Hardware
This kit comes with everything you need to properly level your truck. This even includes all necessary mounting hardware. Whether you are looking to run larger wheels and tires or if you just want to get rid of the un-leveled look, this leveling kit will be perfect!
Wheel and Tire Recommendations:
- 33 x 12.50 Tires
- 17” – 20” x 8” Wheels
- Recommended Wheel Backspacing: OEM – 5”
Please Note: OEM wheels and tires can be used with this kit.
Tech Tip: If larger tires (10% more than the stock diameter) are installed, speedometer recalibration will be necessary. Contact your local Ford dealer or an authorized dealer for details.
Tech Tip: After installation a qualified alignment facility is required to align the vehicle to factory specifications.
CJ Pony Parts is your source for all things Ford F-150! Whether you’re interested in simply a pair of headlights or if you’re going to dive in with a lift kit, we have what you need to make your F-150 truly yours!
Order a (F920MS) Skyjacker 2" Leveling Kit for your 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015 or 2016 F-150 from CJ Pony Parts today!
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This Skyjacker 2 inch leveling kits comes with metal spacers that mount on the front struts to lift the front of the truck 2 inches, and making it level with the rear. This leveling kit is significantly easier to install, and more affordable than a complete lift kit. It still gives the truck improved ground clearance and off-road capabilities, while maintaining the factory broad qualities. Today we're going to be installing this on this 2016 F-150.
Tools you need for this installation:
A lift and a pole jack, or a Jack and Jack stands
3/8 inch Ratchet
1/2 inch Ratchet
A very powerful Impact Gun or Air Gun
A 15mm Wrench
A big Pry Bar, and a high quality Spring Compressor.
The first step of this process is to obviously get the truck up in the air and take the wheel off. Once you get it up into the air you need to remove the strut assembly itself. Basically you need to remove everything in here; the upper control arm, the tire rod, the sway bar in link, loosened the lower control arms. Basically everything in here has to come undone. We are going to start off by undoing these bolts right here.
There's 3 bolts securing all the brake lines. There is an 8mm bolt here, a 10, and a 10. I like to put the bolts back where they came from just so I don't lose them. Moving on to the big nuts and bolts now, remove the 21mm nut on the tire rod. With an 18mm socket you can remove the lower strut nuts and also the sway bar in link nut. If you go to loosen the sway bar in link stud and the nut turns with the stud, grab yourself and 18mm wrench and then and 8mm socket. Remove the 18mm nut securing the ball joint to the steering knuckle. Grab yourself a good-sized hammer and whack right here on the steering knuckle to release the ball joint.
Now this step might not be entirely necessary but you can loosen up the lower control arm nuts right here, and it will help with lowering the lower control arm to give you more room. These nuts are very tight so you'll need a good breaker bar for these. Before you loosen up the nuts on top of the strut, I found that it makes it a lot easier if before you loosen them take a pry bar and put it under the strut right here. If you don't do this when you loosen the nuts on the top the whole assembly will drop and go down back into the slots here, and it'll make it really difficult to remove it because it'll probably drop in twist. If you don't do this it really will make it a lot more difficult to remove it, so I highly recommend before loosening the nuts on the top put a pry bar underneath it. It really will make it a lot easier.
All 3 nuts up top for 18mm. When you've got all 3 nuts off up top, push down on the pry bar. Now to basically make this possible to reinstall once we get the leveling kit on it, we're going to hammer out the studs so we have enough room. We're going to put the nuts back on each stud. Grab yourself your sledgehammer, hold this really secure, and then you're going to hit on the end of the studs until they pop out. The leveling kit comes with 2 pieces. One spacer goes beneath this top hat right here, the other spacer goes on top. In order to get the spacer below this top hat we're going to need to compress the spring. These springs are really tight so you're going to need a really good, high quality spring compressor for this. That's going to be really important for safety. You don't want to use a cheap one, that could seriously injure you or someone else.
A very powerful electric gun or air gun is really going to be helpful with tightening this. There is a lot of tension on the spring. With the spring compressed you can remove the 17mm nut on top of the top hat that secures the strut. Remove the top hat. Set the strut aside. Remove the insulator. The Skyjacker kit comes with replacement bolts, so we need to hammer out the factory studs. At this point we can try to install the spacer but it doesn't go down all the way, and we need to remove this plastic collar. Install the spacer with the slots facing up. Then you can reinstall the collar. I'm going to lubricate everything up just to make it easier to adjust if we don't get it on perfectly.
Install these bolts that's supplied in the kit. Then install the rubber insulator, and if it needs to it can turn pretty easily now because it's lubricated. Before we install this on the strut we're going to test it, and see how it fits. This will actually only go on one way. As you can see there are 3 studs up here, it has to be in this order. If it's like that it won't fit, if it's like that it won't fit, it has to be in this exact position. What we're going to do is get it up in there, and then we're going to mark it so we know where to put it on the strut. Now we're going to mark it right where it needs to be installed. It can only fit in this way so the strut's going to come down here, and get right into the lower control arm. I'm going to try to make a mark right here, to have this lineup basically center with the strut.
Now that we've added a spacer to the top hat, the studs don't come out so we can't get a nut on it, we need to compress it a little bit more. Now that the threads are showing we can get the nut on it. Now we can try to line it up. I'm basically trying to get this silver mark to go straight down the strut, and in between the bottom mount here. I placed the mark and I'm hoping that it will be dead center with the mounts right here, so it's clocked in the right position. Tighten up the nut. It might turn on you, which is why we lubricated it. If it wasn't lubricated it actually might not spin with it being on here like this. We can now release the tension from the spring. We do need to put the other space or on top of here, but before do we're going to make sure that this is in the right position.
As you can see the bottom mount lines up as well as the studs of top. Now we can put the spacer on. Put the top spacer on and then put it in the truck. Once you get it in put the nuts on up top. Tighten up the nuts up top, they are 15mm nuts. We're now going to use a pole jack to lift everything up, so it's easier to reinstall. Take the studs that you previously hammered out and reinstall them. Give these bolts a little love tap to get them in. Put the nuts on the stud, and power tools are really going to come in handy for this part. You're going to draw the stud all the way down by tightening it. Reinstall the tire rod. This might be the more difficult part, you're going to have to jack up the lower control arm and pulled down on the ball joint, to get the stud in the knuckle. If it starts to spin like what it's doing right now, take the socket off, put a wrench on here, and an 8mm socket right here.
Reinstall the nut on the sway bar in link, and use an 18mm wrench and an 8mm socket to reinstall it. To tighten up the lower control arm bolts, you're going to need a 21mm socket and a 27. Reinstall the brake lines. Now just put the wheel on, repeat the process on the other side, and your installation's finished. The Skyjacker 2 inch leveling kit is installed. It lifted the front of the truck about 2 inches making it nice and leveled with the rear. We have a lot more room up here now for a bigger tire. You want to make sure it you get an alignment after this, it could be off just so slightly. Installation takes about 3 to 4 hours, and before you know it you'll be heading down the road.