ST Suspension ST-X Coilover Kit for 2013, 2014, 2015 and 2016 Focus STs.
ST Suspensions coilover kit offers the ultimate in performance, style and handling. Customize your Focus ST's ride height by simply adjusting a threaded collar. The shock body is threaded so the collar rides directly on the body. This provides a cleaner look without as many parts as a coilover with a sleeve. The rear of your Focus ST will receive separate shocks and springs. However, an adjustable perch allows you to raise and lower the rear of the vehicle.
ST-X coilovers deliver sporty handling by reducing body roll during compression as well as improving agility when driving fast. The coilovers are constructed with a low friction and pressure resistant housing with a chrome plated piston rod for maximum longevity. A monoblock guide and ST seal package ensure the twin-tube dampers remain free from dirt particles. The galvanized struts have additional coating for optimized corrosion protection. ST-X coilovers are non-adjustable. Simply install and drive with no suspension tuning needed.
- Front: 0.9" to 1.6" (22mm to 40mm)
- Rear: 0.8" to 1.4" (20mm to 35mm)
- Front Spring Rate: 400 lbs/in
- Rear Spring Rate: Progressive
ST Suspensions height adjustable coilover kits are precision engineered and road tested to the highest standards of the German TUV. The coilovers are constructed from heavy galvanized high grade steel for great rust protection. Spring rates are matched perfectly to the Focus ST chassis to achieve the best handling possible. ST Suspensions coilovers provide the best ride, handling and performance all in one package. Don't settle for offshore knock-off coilovers when you can buy quality parts from ST Suspensions.
Product ReviewsWrite a review
Will this kit fit a 2015 ST and are the camber arm adjusters, i.e. Eibach Camber Arm Pro-Alignment Kit Focus ST 2013-2016 - necessary for this application?
Will these fit non-usdm focus st's? FYI, I have a 2013 AUDM Focus ST.
Will this fit a 2014 Focus SE? I don't have an ST....
Hi. In the video, during the test drive, you mentioned something about sway bars. Basically, I'm trying to determine what other, if any, suspension mods had already been done. Thanks.
About how long does it take to install these coilovers
Would these fit the 15?
Is there a warranty? How long are these estimated to last (miles) with daily driving?
I bought this kit from a friend but he kept the rear spring perch/adjuster for the ride height. Would I be able to purchase them by themselves? Or would I have to get a whole new kit? Thank you
You Might Also Like
CJ's Low Price:$1,349.99
CJ's Low Price:$1,039.99
From:CJ's Low Price:$209.99
We'll be going with the ST-X Coilover Series shown here. The ST suspensions are actually made by KW Suspensions, a really well known European suspension company. To keep the cost down on the ST brand, they use a steel body coated in zinc versus a stainless steel found on the KW. The structured non-adjustable and pre-dampened to work with the springs provided by ST. They actually provide two springs. Your standard coilover spring shown here and a helper spring to keep it seated and again to lower the noise and improve the ride quality. The spinner wrench for adjusting is also included.
This is the rear suspension included in the ST-X kit from ST Suspensions. Includes a pair of new shocks, new springs and these mounts here that allow you the adjustability of height for your rear suspension. This is going to mount in your spring perch. The spring is going to mount here and by threading the bottom inside and out, it's going to allow you a full 1 1/2" of adjustment.
We're using the stock tires on our Niche wheel, so this is the ride height you're going to have on every brand new Focus St. You see, we can easily get three fingers between the bottom of the corner panel on the top of the tire. That's way too much gap. Definitely going to bring it down with our ST suspension. You see the wheel well gap in the front, not as bad but still a nice big gap between the tire and the fender itself. Also it's lower in the front from the factory. We're looking for an even, flat stance all the way around.
For this installation, we need a jack and jack stands or a lift and pole jack, 1/2" ratchet or impact gun, 3/8" ratchet or impact gun, 20mm socket, 19mm socket, 18mm socket, 15mm socket, 13mm socket, 10mm socket, 8mm socket, 10mm Allen key, 5mm Allen key, T30 Torx bit, T8 Torx bit, couple of extensions, a swivel, 17mm wrench, 15mm wrench, snap ring pliers, spring compressor, pry bar, flashlight and safety glasses.
We're going to start our installation by doing the front suspension first. To get the factory front struts off, you have to remove the strut mounts, they're actually located underneath the cowl. So the first step is remove our factory cowl. Start by removing these two cowl covers. They're just going to pop right off. The wipers are held on by nuts. You remove these plastic covers and then you can remove the nuts and remove your wipers. Kind of shimmy the wiper a little bit and it will come right off.
The cowls now held on by four bolts. There's two T30’s on the outside edges here and two 10mm on the inside. Once the hardware is removed, there's a couple small clips holding it in place. We'll disconnect the sound simposer tubes just simply pull it off. Lift up on the cowl and it'll pop free.
Now you can see the three top bolts we'll have to remove to remove the strut body itself. So we put the car up in the air, remove the wheel and get started.
We'll start by removing the sway bar inlink and the bracket here for the ABS line. Next, remove the bracket for the brake line. Now remove the bolt that holds the spindle to our strut. Once you remove the bolt from the front, what you're going to do is thread it in from the back. Grab a piece of scrap metal ... Use this old brake piece here ... Basically, you're going to put it in there. And as you thread it in from the back, what that's going to do when it hits this metal it's going to spread this apart. This has to be spread open so the strut can be removed from the spindle. We don't want to thread it in too far. Just thread it in enough so that you start seeing some movement. Now you can see our spindle is separate from the strut. Now we can disconnect up top.
Now we have our strut separated from our spindle. We're going to remove these three bolts here that hold the strut to the strut tower. When you remove the third one, you want to make sure you actually hold onto the strut assembly because it will fall down.
Now that we have the strut separated from the strut tower, we can remove it from the spindle. This can actually be one of the more difficult parts of the installation. The strut has to go so high and this suspension has to go low enough to be able to get it out and remove it. It's pretty much only one way to do it. You kind of just have to wrestle with it and twist it so you get to a point where you get it loose. You want to push as much pressure down on this as you can while lifting up the strut. Sometimes if you're having trouble separating it, you hold the strut back up and put a single bolt back in. You want to make the bolt loose. You tighten it down all the way. Or if you put the other three in, it's not going to work. You have to have some play in it.
Before you assemble the front struts, make sure you grab the correct side. As you can see, there's an "R" and "L". They are side specific.
We need to use the original mounting plate off the factory assembly, onto our new coilover struts. We have to compress the strings so we can remove it.
Now we're going to assemble our new coilover with the factory nut and washer. Get the plastic spacer and install the original piece here. Make sure everything is seated straight and reinstall the hardware.
We'll adjust the actual ride height once the actual suspension is on the car. But to start out, you'll want to make sure that both your coilovers are at the same height roughly, make it much easier to set up the suspension later. Okay, that's pretty close. We'll put the strut back on our car.
When installing the new strut, you want to make sure this little piece here is going to go in the back. That'll sit flat against your spindle. That little notch to go on the separation area back here. This part's a lot easier if you have someone to help you. Hold the strut in place while you put the bolts in from the top.
Now we'll remove the bolt from the back and reinstall the other side. Reinstall our brake hose. We can reinstall our sway bar and the ABS bracket. Now you want to repeat the process on the driver side and then we can move on to the rear suspension.
Now you've moved on to the rear suspension. We replaced the springs as well as the shocks located here. We're going to start by doing the springs. To do that, there's a single bolt over here. You release the bolt, the arm will swing down and then we can remove the factory spring.
You want to support the arm by either using a pole jack or floor jack, now you can remove the bolt. Now we lower down the arm, remove the stock spring. We're going to remove the lower factory spring insulator. We need to disassemble the new lower spring perch to install it in the car. Start by removing the snap ring, remove these three screws to separate the pieces, slide that off.
Now we can reassemble it in the car. And we'll install a new perch in the lower arm, seats right in the opening there. And we reinstall the plate that we removed. Reinstall the snap ring. Instead of measuring, we're just going to make the adjustment even with the bolts to start. It can be easy way to make sure that both sides line up properly and then we can adjust our ride height once the car is back on the ground.
We reinstalled the factory-installed insulator on the top of the spring and the flat machine side here is going to go down into our lower control arm. Use our jack to lift it into place. Just make sure everything is lined up before you tighten the bolt and thread through to the threaded side on the other side of the arm.
To make it easier to install the shock, we're going to start by removing the wheel. The shock is attached to a shock bracket. There's actually two nuts on either side. You remove the studs and disconnect the shock bracket. Now you're going to release the lower bolt. The single bolt that holds the spindle down here.
Now we're going to remove the bracket from our stock shock and move it over to our ST shocks. Now we'll install the bracket onto our new shock. We're going to reinstall back in the car. Put the new shock up into place. Make sure you get it lined up with the studs up top and put it back in the bottom here. Since the new shock is shorter than the stock one, to get it up in place, you probably are going to have to use a jack just to push the suspension out. Now you want to repeat the process on the other side.
Once you have the entire suspension installed, we'll put the car back on the ground and then we'll make our adjustments. Before you do so though, you want to make sure that you actually have the front strut within range of where it's allowed to work. What you want to do is measure from the bolt that holds the spindle together to the bottom of the spring. It has to be between 8.1" and 8.7" to be within operating range for the front strut. To adjust the ride height, use the supplied spinner wrench and actually turn this collar to move the spring up and down. Once you get the ride hut where you want it, simply tighten this set screw and it'll hold it in place.
You can see with the measurement, ours is a little over 8" which is perfectly within range. It's going to be on the lower side but that's what we're looking for.
The height adjustment for the rear is done by threading in or threading out this adjustment bolt right here. We're going to bring it down a little bit by threading outward. You want to do it in even turns, so do it a half-turn at a time. One ... We'll try three ... Two. We'll check it from there and then we'll measure once the car's on the ground.
Once you get the ride height where you want it, you want to double check just to make sure everything's within operating range. The minimum distance you're going to want from the center of this cap here to this is going to be 12.8". And see we're actually around 13 3/4" roughly so we could have gone lower if we wanted to but this is the ride height we're looking for. Installation of the suspension is finished. Just put the cowl back together and you're all done.
Any time you change the ride of a vehicle, especially for something like a coilover, you do want to get the car aligned before you do any kind of lengthy driving because you can tear up your tires. We're going to go for a quick test drive and see how it drives before we get them aligned.
So I got to say the ride quality feels just as good as the factory suspension. I mean it's nice and firm but it's not too harsh when you're driving around. It feels amazing. The car literally is point and shoot. Like you turn the wheel ... You pick the direction you're going and it I mean it just freaking goes. It really feels outrageous. It's funny when we drove our Fiesta ST after the Focus ST, the Fiesta had a firmer, more point and shoot feel about it even though Focus run suspension works really good from the factory. Now this is definite the better handling car between the two of them. Body roll is almost gone, an upgraded set of sway bars may not even be a necessity with a suspension like this, cause as I said, it barely has any body roll at all.
We couldn't be happier with our ST-X suspension. The ride height is absolutely perfect. On our test drive, the car handled it amazing. No more body roll, and the ride was overall barely even noticed to be firmer than stock. If stance is your thing, you can go even lower if you wanted to. Installation will take you around three hours. You'll be back on the road in no time.