Set of Steeda Linear Sport Lowering Springs for all 2015, 2016 and 2017 V6 and GT Mustangs.
How your 2015-2017 V6 or GT Mustang feels while driving and how it looks when sitting still can be a struggle to get both right. A good set of lowering springs can be the foundation to good handling and that perfect stance. A great place to start is with a company that specializes in the vehicle dynamics of your S550 Mustang. Steeda!
Steeda’s experience and expertise in high performance street and racing suspension systems is second to none. Now's your chance to allow them to put that experience to work for you. Steeda springs are all in house engineered and custom made to their exact specifications. Steeda springs are developed using advanced proprietary CAD data, and their exclusive 3d modeling. This kind of attention to detail and experience sets them apart from the others.
Features and Benefits:
- Lowers 1” in the Front and Rear
- Linear Springs Will Deliver Great Ride Quality Even When Daily Driving
- Improved Aerodynamics and Vehicle Stance
- Sharper Steering Response and Turn-In
- Optimized Vehicle Handling and Stability
- Noticeable Reduction in Nosedive While Braking
*These springs are not intended for use on EcoBoost Mustangs.
There is no shortage of Mustang aftermarket parts manufacturers vying for your business these days. While many of these companies specialize in the production of certain Mustang parts, they are unable to cover your part needs on a bumper-to-bumper basis. Steeda is a Mustang parts manufacturer that offers almost everything you need for whatever year Mustang you may own and CJ Pony Parts offers a huge selection of Steeda parts to meet your specific performance and styling needs.
Order this set of Steeda Linear Sport Lowering Springs for your 2015-2017 V6 or GT Mustang from CJ Pony Parts today!
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Product ReviewsWrite a review
Right now I'm running the factory 19" PP wheels on my 2017 GT. I want to add these springs and some aftermarket wheels, specifically the Niche Misano Wheel 20"x10" wrapped in Nitto G2 275/35-20. Will clearance be an issue?
with steeda srings are the ones shown in the video in this page the progressive rate or linear rate springs.??? And witch ones do u recomend better .
I will be installing these on my 16 GT none PP, I'd like to push my factory 18" wheels out a bit. I see most people go with spacers, 25mm up front an 20mm rear for a "flush" look. What is your input on these suggestions ?
Do I need to realignment after I install it? Thanks!!
I'm going with a certain color scheme for my car. Can I order the steeda springs in any color other than blue?
What's the difference in linear and progressive springs ?
How much stiffer are these than the performance pack springs ?
My 2016 GT has the 20" Floundry rims, will there be wheel/tire rub with this size wheel after the install of the Steeda springs?
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Steeda engineers their springs in-house to give you a perfect combination of raw equality along with performance and that lower look. These springs are going to lower your 2015 GT fast back approximately one inch all the way around. Should give you a nice lowered stance without going too extreme.
For this installation I'm going to need a lift and a pole jack or jack and jack stands, 1/2 inch ratchet or impact gun, 15mm socket, 18mm socket, 21mm socket, 24mm socket, 3/4 inch ratchet, 13mm socket, 17mm wrench, panel removal tool, hammer, and a spring compressor.
You want to start the installation by getting the car off of the ground and taking off all four wheels. Next thing we'll do then, is remove the ABS line from the strut. Now I'll remove the nut that holds the sway bar to the strut.
To get to the spindle nuts, we have to remove the caliper for clearance. The caliper comes off by two bolts, one down here and one up top here. Now I pull the caliper off of the rotor. Set it back here on the K member.
Now we can separate the spindle from the strut by removing these two nuts and these two bolts here. We took the rotor off so you can see it better, but you don't actually have to do it to remove this. These bolts are pretty much pressed in, so what you want to do now is put the nut back on the end just a couple of threads, and tap it out.
Now we can move up in the engine bay and separate the strut from the strut tower by removing these three nuts. After you remove the third nut, make sure you're holding on to the strut or it will fall.
The next step now is removing the spring from our factory strut. To do that you want to pick up a spring compressor. If you don't have one of these, which most of you probably won't, this is a tool you can rent at most auto parts store for only a couple of bucks. Put the compressor onto our coil spring. Now you can remove the strut mount. And release compression from the spring. Now we'll want to compress our new spring. This will be much easier to compress than the one we just removed because they are much shorter. Make sure the spring is seated in the proper spot on the saddle at the bottom. Make sure everything is lined up and we can decompress the spring. And our new assembly is ready to re-install in the car.
I'll put the strut up into place. I'll put the spindle back into the strut. Put the nuts on and then tighten them down. You can hammer these in but you really don't have to. Tightening the nuts down will pull the threads in. I'll put our caliper back on. Re-install the end link for the sway bar. And re-install the clips for the ABS line. Now you'll want to repeat the process on the other side and then move on to the rear.
To do the rear, we're going to have to lower the rear subframes, so if you're putting it on jack stands or a jack, make sure the subframe can still easily drop. We're going to clear a few things before we can do that, we'll start by removing the brake bracket here and disconnecting the shock from the body. You'll put a pole jack, or a normal jack into place on the subframe. You got to tug until you feel it just start to lift. Now you can work on the subframe bolts.
Start with these two small bolts in the front here. These, you can take them all the way out but you really don't have to and they can kind of be a pain to line up when you're done. Just loosen them up and then this bracket can pull down. Start with the front subframe bolt. Now the rear. Now we can lower it down. Now we're going to pull down the arm a little bit to release the spring and remove it from the car. You can remove the shock, there's two bolts down here, if you want a little more. But you can get it out with the shock in place. There's a specific place the rear springs going to sit, if you don't have it seated properly, it could screw up your ride height. See there's a cut out in the insulator, and with that installed so that's right up in there. From the bottom part of the spring ... We'll get you a close up in a second, but if you look right there there's actually a cut out in the bottom of the spring and the part's just going to sit right in there. Put our new spring in. Now you keep that towards the back so it sits right on where it goes. Now what you want to do, because this spring is shorter, use your jack or pole jack and then lift it up into place. You look for this little cut out, again, you'll see the end of the spring insulator right here and we can see the spring is up against it, we know it's seated properly. I can put her all the way up and re-install our subframe bolts.
Put the subframe bolts up into place. I recommend starting them by hand and getting a few turns to make sure they're lined up properly before you tighten them down. I put the rear in, now I'll put the front in. Now I'll put the shock mount back into place. There's two little studs, the shock will go underneath here. You have to put the brake bracket back on. And repeat the process on the other side, re-install your wheels, and your installation is finished.
The Steeda sports springs were a perfect choice for me. They're giving me that nice low look that I wanted without slamming the car to the ground so I still have ground clearance. The ride quality is great, and I love the wheel wall gap. The car's nice and even now, and looks great. Installation, same as all springs, is pretty straight-forward. Takes you roughly about two hours from top to bottom and be back on the road in no time. More installation videos for your 2015 Mustang, make sure you subscribe to our Youtube channel, check out cjponypart.com for the best selection of 2015 Mustang parts.