Steeda Race Tri-Ax Short Throw Shifter for 2015, 2016 and 2017 GT Mustangs with a Manual Transmission.
There are a few reasons you might be looking into a new short throw shifter for your 2015-2017 Mustang GT. Some people like them because they help boost performance while on the track. Others just prefer the way a short shifter feels and transforms their overall driving experience. But no matter what your reason is for wanting one, CJ Pony Parts has you covered! Check out this Steeda Tri-Ax Race Short Throw Shifter!
Features & Benefits:
- 30% Throw Reduction and 20% Lighter Than Other Short Throw Shifters on the Market
- Gets Rid of Slop and Shifter Deflection
- Will Not Bind Under Extreme Conditions or Temperatures
- Sits 1" Lower for Ideal Power Shifting Position
- Allows You to Change Springs, Levers and Other Options from Inside without Taking Out the Full Assembly
- Two Different Spring Set Options for a Fully Adjustable Shifting Experience
- Retains Your Factory Pull-Up Reverse Lock-Out, OE Thread Pitch and Back-Up Camera Functionality
- Shifter is Made from High-Quality Aircraft-Grade Aluminum and Shift Lever is Made from Heat-Treated, Nickel-Plated 4140 Steel
- More Direct Gear Change
- Transmission and Chassis Mounted
- OE-Quality Fitment, Alignment and Shaft Actuation
- Includes Dynamat Sound-Deadening Material So It's Quieter Than Stock Shifter During Daily Driving
- Comes with Steeda's Shifter Base Bushing Bracket and Stainless Steel Hardware
- Rigid Mounting in Front and Steeda Poly Bushing in Rear to Eliminate Slop and Shifter Deflection
- High-Quality, Low-Friction Bushings are Precision-Fit for a Direct Positive Feeling Shift
- Made in the USA
This Steeda 555-7317 Race Tri-Ax Short Throw Shifter offers plenty of great advantages! For one thing, it provides a 30% throw reduction. For another, it's 20% lighter than most of the other short throw shifters on the market today! Not only that, this Short Throw Shifter will be quieter than your stock shifter during daily driving thanks to the included Dynamat sound-deadening material that it uses. This Race Tri-Ax Short Throw Shifter is also completely top-loaded and comes with 2 spring set options so you can easily adjust them to your shifter feel preference. Once you mount Steeda's shifter base plate, it'll be easy for you to change the springs, levers and other options from right inside your S550 without having to remove the entire shifter assembly.
You'll also love the rigid mounting in the front and Steeda's poly bushing in the rear since they'll virtually eliminate any slop and shifter deflection you might feel, which will then result in a more direct gear change! And, unlike other similar assemblies on the market, this one is transmission- and chassis-mounted so you won't have to deal with that "walking" effect of a fully transmission-mounted assembly. This shifter will sit about 1" lower than your stock shifter for an ideal power shifting position, plus it'll retain your factory pull-up reverse lock-out, OE thread pitch and back-up camera functionality.
This made-in-the-USA short throw shifter is constructed from high-quality aircraft-grade aluminum and the shift lever itself is made from 4140 steel that's heat treated and nickel plated. This means you can rest easy knowing it'll last you for many years to come! You'll also get the stainless steel hardware that's required to install this short throw shifter and Steeda's shifter base bushing bracket. The bushings themselves are high quality and low friction for a precise fit and for a direct positive feeling shift too!
Please Note: This short throw shifter will not fit V6, EcoBoost, GT350 or GT350R models.
Order a Steeda 555-7317 Race Tri-Ax Short Throw Shifter for your 2015, 2016 or 2017 GT Mustang with a Manual Transmission from CJ Pony Parts today!
Product ReviewsWrite a review
Hi, does it fit also european model of 2016 Mustang GT? DoesSteeda provide any kind of certification for this product in order to cover gearbox manufacturer warranty? Best regards.
What is the approx. time for installation?
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This will sit approximately 1" lower when installed and it's adjustable springs, so you can actually adjust the tension of the shifts. When installed, the Steeda Tri-Ax is going to look and operate just like the factory shifter, which means it's still going to have the pull up for reverse. While we're installing this, though, we're going to upgrade that as well. Since the factory lockout is a two-piece, it does tend to break over time so while we have it apart, we're going to install this one piece Delrin unit, also from Steeda.
For this installation, with a lift and a pole jack, or a jack and jack stands, 1/4" ratchet, 7mm socket, 10mm socket, 13mm shallow socket, 3/8 socket, 3/16 Allen key, 5/16 Allen key, short extension, a 3/8 ratchet, 13mm socket, 15mm socket, 18mm socket, decent length, at least 1 ft. extension, 18mm wrench, T-8 Torx bit, T-10 Torx bit, T-20 Torx bit, plastic pry bar, marker, small set of vice grips, c-clamp, and scissors.
Steeda provides Dynamat Sound Deadening to keep the cars quiet as possible. To install that though, that means the whole console has to come off of its installation. The first thing we're going to do is remove the side panels and the bolts down here. This panel here is held on by clips. Just grab and grip underneath it. Just pop them off. On both sides, there will be two small screws, we've got to remove those to get the console out.
Before we move to the back of the console, now you just want to take the shift knob off, just get a grip on it and turn it counter-clockwise. Then you want to pull your emergency brake up pretty high, open the console lid, then separate these two pieces here, again, held on by clips. Reach underneath and disconnect the plug. Then, again, using a small screwdriver, separate the reverse lockout from the factory shifter, and remove the console. You can see the factory sound deadening, we're going to remove this, and also the factory rubber boot.
There's a small rubber ring on top here, we're going to slide that off and put that aside, and now we have to remove the factory roll pin. To remove the pin, we're going to start by pushing the spring down out of the way, which makes it a lot easier to do. Grab a set of vice grips, pushing the spring down, and lock it out of the way. The pin is located right here. If you notice, there's going to be a thicker and a thinner side. You obviously want to push it out towards the thicker side or it's not going to go through. The way you're going to do this, you need a C-clamp and a small socket. What we're going to do is line the clamp up and then we'll turn this to push the pin through into the socket.
Push it through as far as you can and then we'll unthread it, twist it and work it out and remove the spring. The last step in the car is to remove the factory lockout. There's a T-20 screw on this side, simply remove that, slide that up, and put it aside as well. Now we're ready to move under the car. We're under the car now, we're going to start the disassembly here. Before you do that though, make sure the e-brake is off and the transmission is in neutral. What we're going to do, we're actually going to pull the exhaust off and unbolt the drive shaft to give us more room. You don't necessarily have to do this. I've installed these before just working your way around it. As long as you have swivels, you'll be able to do that, but we also know that you won't be able to see anything, so we're going to do that to make it easier. Again, if you need more room, you can do the same thing.
Anytime you remove the drive shaft, you're going to want to mark it. We're going to use this paint marker here so we remember where it was so it goes back on the same spot. You remove these three bolts here, then, to remove our drive shaft. Now we're going to disconnect the sleeves for our exhaust. At this point, what you could do is just pop these sleeves off and just let it hang. It's two more bolts so we're going to take it all the way off to give us more room. Now we're going to unbolt the coupler for the drive shaft so you can pull that down as well.
All right, now with that out of the way now, we can remove the two nuts that hold on the rear brace for the shifter. When we get the shifter out, we have to access the linkage which is on top of the transmission. To do that, what we're going to do now is support the transmission, you can use a pole jack if you a lift, or a normal jack. I'm going to remove these bolts and we can lower the transmission down so we have more room. To remove the shifter from the transmission, the first thing we're going to do is remove this 10mm bolt right here. That'll remove the swing arm and then we can actually access the linkage.
Now we can tilt this back so it’s out of the way. Right up here is the 13mm to release the linkage. With the shifter out now, we need to separate the linkage from the shifter so we can move over to our Steeda. To do that, we're going to remove these four bolts. I'm going to remove the linkage. From the factory shifter, there's this black little pivot cup, simply pop it off. To prep the linkage for insulation, we're going to remove these bushings. That one will slide right off. This one's got a little slit in it, put that aside. What you're going to have is the linkage, this cup here, and the smaller cup, that's stuff going to be transferred over to our new Steeda shifter.
The last thing we need off the stock shifter is going to be this white shifter cup inside here. To get to that, we've got to remove these two bolts. What we're going to do now is put a little bit of extra grease on this linkage. It's got a good amount on it already, but not a bad idea to put a little bit more, including the inside here. I'm going to put the linkage into our Steeda shifter. We're going to put the cap on. Make sure when you do this, all four of these holes are facing the back. We're going to put a dab of blue Loctite on each one of these.
Now we're going to install the Steeda support arm. It's going to slide right in here, get a little blue Loctite on here. Now we'll install the end piece on our shifter, put a little blue Loctite on these bolts. Now we're going to begin assembly by putting the Steeda up into place. What you're going to be doing, is take the original screw and go through the factory linkage back in the factory location. With the linkage connected, now we're going to put the shifter arm into place and reinstall the original hardware here as well. Now we're going to take the Steeda bushing, slide it onto the tail shaft of the shifter. Now you're going to reinstall the original nuts we removed.
Now we're finished with the Steeda assembly underneath the car, what we're going to do now: put the transmission cross-member back into place, reinstall the drive shaft, and reinstall the exhaust. Now we're going to put the drive shaft back up. With the drive shaft in place, you're going to reinstall the drive shaft bolts. Again, make sure you go by your marks and install the drive shaft right where it was before. Once we're all started, we can tighten them down. Now, re-tighten the clamps, and install the bolts and tighten the hangers. Now we can move back up top. Before we get in the car, you're going to grab the supplied handle, going to put grease on the larger ball, and the smaller one as well. What we're going to do is take the factory white plastic piece, slide that up, it pops in place. Take the small black one, need a little bit of force. Now it's ready to go in the car.
When you slide this in, you want to make sure it lines with the cup down there, with this ... This will sit here. Make sure this threaded hole goes on the passenger side. Factory, it's on the driver's side, but with this shifter, it has to be on the passenger side or it will not work. Now we're going to install the springs and the shims. You have two choices on the springs. You've got the shorter ones so you're more like a medium centering firmness, and your longer ones will be a lot firmer. We're going to go with the medium ones for this application. The medium's probably going to be good for most people. If you're really into road racing or drag racing specifically, maybe then you'll want to go with the larger ones.
Going to put a little grease on these to hold them in place in here, and then the same with the shims. Now what you want to do is slide this over, make sure this piece is facing the driver's side, and then slide it down. We're going to bolt the top plate to the base, again, a little bit of blue Loctite. Now you're going to grab these two O-rings, thoroughly grease these up, make sure you've got plenty of grease inside and out, then slide over the shifter. Now grab the Steeda supplied lockout, just slide it down over here, then we're going to reinstall the stock screw. Now we're going to install the original spring back into place and hold that down. Steeda provides these two tiny screws to hold it on.
What you want to do now is cut strips of the supplied Dynamat. This is going to help with the NVH. Basically, what you're going to do is stick this on the edges, going to stick enough on here to fill the gaps around the transmission to seal this whole area. Then we have the factory boot, make sure that sits in this groove. Since it's all and zip-tied, he wants you to hold it on. Dynamat installed, now we're going to reinstall the original sound deadening as well. You've going to squeeze these orange clips with your fingers to remove the boot, now we're going to reinstall the console. Don't forget the plugs.
Now you're going to slide the handled lockout into place and tighten these Torx screws to hold it in. Make sure, when you tighten these, you want to do it evenly so it stays centered. Double check, make sure everything's down, make sure it works smoothly, then clip this back into place. Before we reinstall our factory shift ball, you've got to take this little piece of rubber, going to sit it down in the bottom, in the threads. It should fall in pretty easily. If not, use a screwdriver, just push it in. You want to throw the shift knob on with the car in reverse, make sure you can still smoothly get in. With the rubber on there, it's not the tightest. In my opinion, what I would do here, put a little Loctite on there, let it sit overnight, that way the shifter will seize up nicely. With the shifter finished, now we can reinstall the screws we removed earlier.
Reinstall the panels, and your installation is finished. Steeda advertises the throws on the Race Tri-Ax to be 30% shorter, and it feels every bit of that. It's got a nice, solid engagement, very little movement in gear, a nice, solid feel overall, which is much better than the stock shifter. As far as the installation, it's a little time consuming because you're inside the car and underneath it, but figure two to three hours and you'll be back on the road in no time.