TMI Headliner Kit Molded One-Piece UniSuede Coupe 1965-1966TMI UniSuede One-Piece Molded Headliner Kit for 1965-1966 Mustang Coupes.
So it's time to replace the headliner in your Mustang and you're looking for something a little more modern in styling. TMI has you covered with their UniSuede One-Piece Molded Headliner Kits!
TMI's seamless One-Piece Molded Headliners are closely contoured to the interior roofline and are covered in a high-quality UniSuede material that will help give your Mustang a more updated look and overall feel.
Installing a standard replacement headliner can be quite a chore, as it requires a good bit of dis-assembly, a time consuming installation, then reassembly of a large portion of your Mustang's interior. TMI's all new molded headliner is designed to fit directly into your 1965-1966 Mustang Coupe without any adhesives or hardware. Installation should now only take an afternoon, as the headliner is securely fastened with the existing trim pieces and windlace already in your Mustang. There is no longer a need to remove window glass like original headliner. The new headliner also adds more than 1 inch of headroom, due to a better fit and the removal of the bows and brackets that held the previous headliner in.
Kits are available in Black and Gray UniSuede.
- UniSuede Covered One-Piece Molded Headliner
- Pair of UniSuede Covered Molded A-Pillar Panels
- Pair of UniSuede Covered Molded Sail Panels
TMI's UniSuede One-Piece Molded Headliner Kits look great matched with TMI's Sport R Upholstery!
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The TMI One-Piece Headliner is currently available in black or gray uni-suede for your '64 through '68 Mustang coupe. It includes the one-piece headliner itself, a pair of sail panels, as well as a pair of A-pillars. In our case, we ordered up a set of matching sun visors to finish off the look. For this installation, you'll need a Phillips head screwdriver, a flat head screwdriver, a T10 Torx bit, 3/8 ratchet, 3/8 socket, 1/4 inch ratchet, 11/32 socket, a couple of plastic pry bars, a small hammer, cutters, flashlight, a thumbtack or pushpin, a pick, right-angle Phillips head screwdriver, razor blade, and clamps.
The headliner on our Weekend Wrench is typical of what you'll find in many early Mustangs. We've got sagging in the middle, and a tear on the end here that makes it get in your way when you're sitting in the car. The first step in installing a new headliner, we're going to remove the factory one, along with our visors, our rear seat, our quarter trim panels, and all the interior trim. We'll start with the visors that are held in by three Phillips head screws. Now, I'll remove the three screws that hold up our rear-view mirror in; we'll pull off the A-pillar retainers, and the windlace comes off next.
Now, we're going to remove our back seat next; we've got to remove the seat; the interior quarter trim panels have to come off to install the sail panels. I'm going to lift up on the seat; we have the seat back out. We're going to remove the two lower retaining bolts, pull the seat out and push up. Now we're going to remove the window cranks, loosen up the set screws and slide them off. We're going to remove the windlace from the front of the quarter trim panel, and the screws that hold it in. The screws are going to have retaining nuts on the bottom, which is going to be inside your trunk. In order to remove your rear seat divider, it's a good time to ask somebody for help. There's actually several parts of this installation that's going to require two people, so it's a good time to get somebody to help you.
I'm going to remove our grill; now I've got to remove our package tray. Now we're going to start removing the headliner from the bottom here. It's not a bad idea to put a drop cloth across your interior when taking out the factory headliner. As you can see with ours, the headliner can hold a few surprises when you take it out. You'll find the headliner's going to rip right in front of the seal in your windshield as well as your rear window. It's one of the reasons factory headliners are so expensive to replace, the front and back actually wrap up around the metal, and the glass holds it in place. When installing a factory headliner, you got to remove the front window and the rear window to properly install it. In the case of the TMI, it actually fits underneath the seal and does not require the glass removal, making it much more economical to install.
You're going to be careful not to pull this too far down, but you want to run a razor blade across here to cut the factory headliner to remove it. We'll do the same with the rear window; pull away the majority of it, and then trim it when you're done. We're going to remove all the factory headliner rods. As you can see, the sides are also glued into the channel where the windlace is going to install. You want to make sure you get as much material out of here, as well, to make it much easier to install the the windlace with our new headliner.
Once you have the old headliner removed and everything's all cleaned up, we're ready to begin the installation of our new TMI One-Piece Headliner. We're ready to begin installing the headliner; you need a point of reference to get it centered when you install it. The best point is going to be the pre-drilled holes in the center, here, for your rear-view mirror. You want to push through from the bottom, and then use a pick to mark it, and line it up inside the car. You're going to make sure you use the center hole, pick through, now we're ready to install it in our car.
Now we're ready to put it in the car; you want to make sure you have a helper for this point, to hold up the other side and help you get it aligned. Once you get it up into place, again, using that pivot point in the center, you want to use clamps to the channel for the windlace, here, to hold it in place. We're going to put it in and then turn it towards the front; I want to use the pick to line it up with the hole. When we get it lined up, we're going to put a single screw in to hold it in place. Now we'll line up our outer edges and put some clamps on to hold it in place. How are you doing on that side, Red? All right, I've clamped that on this side.
Starting with the front, you want to start on one side, you're going to pull the factory windshield seal down, and the edge of the headliner is going to go behind the seal. Once you have the headliner under the seal in the front, you want to do the same process with your rear window. Same thing for the back, just pull the seal back. Now it's time to install our visors, our rods, and then our rear-view mirror. In our case, we decided to paint the originals black, give it a better look with the black finish. It's also a perfect time to replace them if yours are worn out.
The headliner has a soft spot here; there is no fiberglass backing, it's just material. You want to use a pick and find the location for this to reinstall it. You want to start by finding the large location for the pivot, here, that's going to be the biggest hole and the easiest one to find. Start there, and then you can work your way out to the screw holes. When we find that, we'll make a small hole with our razor. We're going to use a thumbtack to locate the other holes. We'll install our new suede sun visor onto the rod. Use the pick to line it up, then we're going to install the rear-view mirror bracket. We actually use this hole as our pivot; it's already lined up and ready to go, just grab our screw and put it in. Then, we'll have to line up the other two.
We're going to slide the other end of our visor rod in, if we slide it over, we can see that we're not further enough down the rod, first. Just slide it further and readjust. These can be tight to press in sometimes. Lightly and carefully, use a hammer to put it all the way in. A little too far; and there we go. The sail panel is going to mount on the side of the window weatherstrip, going down the side, here. I'm going to make sure it's on the outside of the headliner. Just let it hang right there for now, until we reinstall the windlace.
Now we're going to install the A-pillar trim panels. This edge, here, is going underneath the side of the windshield weatherstrip, basically the same way the front installed, just going down the side, now. Now, we can reinstall the package tray and start putting the back of the interior back together. Our package tray, you can see, is not in the best of shape, it's got the cutout for a speaker that's not even being used anymore and some aftermarket carpet. Not really what we're looking for in our car; I'm going to get rid of that. I'm going to upgrade to this carbon fiber unit from TMI. Put this in and slide it into place here.
While it wasn't necessary for removing the rear interior quarter trim panel, to reinstall it, we will have to remove our door sill plates so we can get up underneath the end, here. I'm going to reinstall the panel. I'll reinstall our lower windlace to the quarter. I'll reinstall our window crank, then we can reinstall the door sill plate, in our case, I'm going to use this opportunity to put a brand new set in, since ours was getting a little bit beat up.
Now we're going to install our windlace; you can use the original, or you can go with new stuff, like we're doing here. That's going to hold your A-pillar in place, the top of the headliner, as well as the sail panels. Now we'll cut off the bottom, once we get it in place; now our last step is to reinstall our seat, and our installation's finished.
Our One-Piece Headliner has a nice custom touch to our Weekend Wrench project car, and it matches our Sport R Seats perfectly. As an added benefit, you get a lot of extra headroom, as well. You want to make sure before beginning the installation that both your front and your rear window weatherstrips are in good shape, or you won't get a proper install. While it's a lot easier to install than a factory headliner, you're still going to spend about four or five hours on the install, you'll be back on the road in no time.