Total Control Products Shock Tower Brace Adjustable Aluminum 1965-1970

Total Control Products: TCP PKG-TWRB-01
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Total Control Products Shock Tower Brace Adjustable Aluminum 1965-1970
Total Control Products Shock Tower Brace Adjustable Aluminum 1965-1970 Total Control Products Shock Tower Brace Adjustable Aluminum 1965-1970 Play Total Control Products Shock Tower Brace Adjustable Aluminum 1965-1970 Video 1
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Product Description

Total Control Products Aluminum Adjustable Shock Tower Brace for 1965, 1966, 1967, 1968, 1969 and 1970 Mustangs.

TCP's multi-stage shock tower bracing system reduces chassis flex and increases handling performance. The system is made up of three different braces that work together to add rigidity between the firewall, shock towers and inner fender structures.

Mounting brackets and bracing rods are all made from 6061-T6 aluminum and clear anodized for corrosion resistance. Brackets are 1/4" thick and tubing ends are swedged to increase wall thickness and strength at the threaded ends. The use of aluminum keeps the weight down so the shock tower system doesn't add much weight to the front end. Lightweight mild steel rod ends provide adjustment to adapt to your Mustang, even if the body isn't perfectly square.

Kit Includes:
- Tower export brace
- Monte carlo brace
- Truss brace

The main component of the system is the export brace. TCP's adjustable export brace triangulates the firewall and the shock towers. Adjustable length radius rods simplify installation by providing the proper fit for your Mustang. A 1/4" thick firewall bracket utilizes four existing mounting holes on the firewall/cowl seam but uses three additional drilled holes for increases strength. Shock tower plates also use existing mounting holes and they can be used with factory style suspension or TCP front coilovers.

TCP's monte carlo brace is used to fix the distance between the shock towers. Monte carlo bars resists movement of the shock towers toward each other during braking and cornering. Overall rod length and bracket placement is adjustable to provide flexibility during installation. A zinc plated, steel back-up support bracket is installed on the backside of the inner fender for additional strength. Adequate clearance is provided for large diameter distributors but modifications may be needed to clear A/C compressors or superchargers.

Tying the export brace and monte carlo brace together are the truss braces. Truss braces complete the system by connecting the shock tower plates to the central span of the monte carlo brace. Split-collar clamps secure the braces along the monte carlo bar and bolt directly to the shock tower brackets.

Features:
- Lightweight 6061-T6 aluminum construction
- Lightweight mild steel rod ends
- High carbon chromium alloy steel spherical bearings
- Adjustable for individualized fit
- Adjustable with left hand and right hand thread
- Clear anodized for oxidation protection

Please Note: Does NOT fit late model 5.0 EFI conversions. Also, some centrifugal supercharger models and A/C compressors will interfere with installation of the TCP Monte Carlo Brace. With proper equipment, the brace can be modified (bent) to work around these accessories. Examples of possible solutions are illustrated in each installation guide.

OTHER APPLICATIONS
Fits 1967-1970 Mercury Cougar

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Total Control Products Shock Tower Brace Adjustable Aluminum 1965-1970 Video Transcript
By Bill Tumas: We recently installed Total Control Products, complete bolt in coilover conversion kit, along with our adjustable export price on our '70 Mach 1. Today we're going to stiffen the chassis even further by installing this Adjustable Fender Mount Monte Carlo Bar. It's going to fit your '65 through '70 Mustang and when we work with stock suspension or in conjunction with the TCP. The TCP adjustable Monte Carlo part's going to mount to the top of your fender aprons using the supplied brackets. The nice thing about this is because you're mounting it there it allows you some fore and aft adjustment that clear things such as a larger distributor. This can also be tied in with the TCP suspension which we'll show you later.

For this installation you're going to need 3/8" ratchet, 7/32" allen key, 5/16" allen key, 3/4" wrench, 9/16" wrench, tape measure, marker, drill, 1/8 pilot bit, 3/8 drill bit, and safety glasses.

The TCP Monte Carlo bar's going to bolt to your fenders using these fender brackets which you're going to install roughly in this neighborhood here. You can adjust them fore and aft to get the clearance you need for your distributor, you just want to make sure the top edge lines up with this edge here. If you have an aftermarket apron or a damaged apron, this might move back and forth, you don't want to have too much play. A little bit of play is okay because when you tighten it down it's going to straighten itself, but if you have too much we'll actually hammer this slightly smooth to make sure you have proper clearance. What we're going to do is use a block of wood so we don't our paint and just tap this in a little bit so it sits a little bit flatter, the fender aprons are fairly thin so it'll move pretty easily. That's sitting pretty good now, that little rock like that's no big deal as soon as we tighten it up it'll pull it in so we're going to mark and drill our holes.

Before you drill though you want to take a quick measurement. Grab a tape measure, put the bracket approximately where you think you're going to have it and measure to the front of the radiator support. We're right at about 15" right where we're looking to go, you just want to make sure you measure the other side and just put the bar roughly in place to make sure it's going to clear everything before you drill holes. Different model years, the '65 through '66 you're going to find this, this will be a lot a shorter, '67 and 8 will open up a little bit more, then '69 and '70 is going to be a little bit larger. We're going to start with 1/8" pilot hole then double check to make sure everything lines up on the inside of the fender. This is the bracket that's going to mount inside the fender. Basically how it's going to work, this is going to bolt to this and then our brace will bolt to there, then two more additional bolts will go through the top of the apron in this to add additional support.

At this point since we have a pilot hole we want to make sure this will go up into place and line up. Put the bracket up, kind of L bracket up against the inside of the fender apron, and the pilot hole, yep we're good. Now we'll drill a second pilot hole then we'll open them up. We'll double check our alignment, make sure our holes line up good and we can bolt the bracket in place. Bracket in place, get them hand tight, and then tighten them down. We're going to put a piece of body tape now up in here. We're going to be drilling through from the bottom, up into the engine bay, just to protect the paint so it doesn't chip too badly. We're also going to be very, very close to the fender here so we want to try to protect it. We'll put our bolts through from the top here and then tighten them down. Now repeat the process on the other side.

Now you want to install the ends on the bar, so just grab the lock nut, one side will be a right thread, one side will be a left hand thread, thread that on and then put a dab of anti-seize on the threads, then thread it onto the bar, and repeat the process on the other side. Now we'll put the Monte Carlo bar in place. Put a bolt through this side and we'll go over and adjust the other side before putting nuts on and tightening it down. You want to adjust the bar so basically you have the same thread showing on each side and then tighten down the lock nuts and your installation's finished.

The addition of Total Control Products Adjustable Monte Carlo Bar with our existing export brace is really going to tighten up the front suspension on our '70 Mach 1. Like I mentioned before they actually make a truss brace which will install from here to here and really tie things together which we plan on installing in the future. The installation of the Monte Carlo Bar should take you around an hour or two so you'll be back on the road in no time.