UPR Black Dual Valve Oil Separator for 2015, 2016 and 2017 3.5L EcoBoost F-150s.
Are you looking for an easy way to boost your 2015-2016 3.5L EcoBoost F-150's overall performance? Try swapping out the standard factory oil separator for this upgraded UPR Black Dual Valve Oil Separator 5030-124-1-CSCC, now available to purchase from CJ Pony Parts!
The dual valve design of UPR's oil separator means that even more oil is captured from your truck's engine, meaning the oil-free air intake system can perform better and more efficiently. This separator comes in a deep black finish and is carefully crafted out of premium Billet Aluminum, meaning that it will be durable for years to come while still looking gleaming and new. The oil separator is an easy plug-n-play piece that will require only light modifications, and UPR has ensured you have everything you need for a fast install, including a high-quality Continental braided hose. What are you waiting for? Enhance your F-150's throttle response and fuel economy today and order a new UPR Oil Separator from CJ's!
Dual Valve Oil Separator Features and Benefits:
- 12oz can capacity
- Show quality black finish
- 2oz can measures 3"x2"
- 12oz can measures 6"x3"
- Nickel T-fittings and drain cock
- 5/8" and 3/8" oil-resistant Continental braided hose included
- High quality T-6 061 Billet Aluminum construction
- Prevents oil from entering your truck's air intake system
- Patented multi-chamber design traps oil
- Quick and easy plug-n-play fittings for easy EPS assembly
- Improves overall fuel economy, throttle response and engine performance
Please Note:This oil separator is also available in a satin finish (5030124CSCC).
Whether you're a racer or just looking to have the best looking F-150 on the block, you're going to want the most stylish, highest quality, affordable F-150 parts available. With dozens of performance and styling parts available, the selection of UPR parts available from CJ Pony Parts might be one of the best places to turn.
Order this UPR 5030-124-1-CSCC Black Dual Valve Oil Separator for your 2015, 2016 or 2017 3.5L EcoBoost F-150 from CJ Pony Parts today!
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This UPR dual valve oil separator kit features two Billet Aluminum cans with a combined capacity of 14 ounces and oil resistant continental braided hoses to catch and hold the oil instead of running it into the engine. If the oil gets into your engine it can lower the octane rating of your fuel and cause carbon build-up on the valves which can cause poor performance and engine damage.
It quickly and easily installs using plug and play fittings. Today we're going to be installing it on our 2016 EcoBoost F-150.
Tools you'll need for this installation: a quarter inch ratchet, 7mm socket, 8mm socket, 12mm socket, a flathead screwdriver or a small pry bar, a tape measure, marker, a drill, various drill bets or a step-down drill bit, and safety glasses.
Obviously, the first thing I have to do is open up the hood. Now we're going to remove the engine cover and oil cap. Reinstall the oil cap so nothing falls inside the engine. Remove the hose going from the passenger's side valve cover to the intake manifold by lifting up on the gray tab and pulling off. Push forward on this one and pull up.
The next step is to mount the bracket for this larger catch can. We're going to disassemble this whole assembly, and to make sure we don't get our lines mixed up because they only go on one way because there are check valves, we actually labelled the hoses "one" and "two" right here, so we don't get them mixed up. Now we're going to remove the bracket from the can itself. Now we can take this over to the truck.
We're going to be mounting this bracket right here. There's actually already a hole on the fan shroud, but we need two holes. We're going to line up that hole with the hole in the bracket on the back right here. Then we're going to mark right here on the fan shroud to drill a second hole. Because of inconsistencies with the factory mounting hole in the fan shroud, the holes we just drilled aren't going to work with the rubber isolator. If we try to mount it where we drilled the hole, the factory bolt that came with this kit is not long enough. What we're going to do, we're going to move it forward just a little bit, drill another hole right here for this bolt, and just use the rubber isolator up here as a bumper, and it should be nice and secure right here. All right.
Now here's a little trick. We have to up this bolt on to the top side and put the nut on underneath. So you don't drop the nut, put some paper towels in the socket and then push the nut in, and the nut won't fall out.
Now the bracket is nice and secure, the only flex that is actually in it is in the fan shroud itself.
We have to drill a hole in the passenger side turbo inlet pipe and before we do that we're going to remove the pipe from the turbo so we don't get any shavings inside of it. The easiest way to get to this clamp on the turbo is through the wheel well. You don't have to remove anything. You should be able to get right to it. Then remove the clamp up top. This one's a lot easier to get to. Before you completely remove this pipe, you have to disconnect this hose right here. The pipe is also sitting in this grommet. You have to remove it from the grommet in order to remove the pipe from the truck. To remove this turbo inlet pipe we have to remove the hot side pipe as well. We're just going to loosen the clamp on the turbo coupler and pop it off.
We now have to install a fitting right here on this turbo inlet pipe. We mark the hole that we're going to drill. This is 21 and a half inches from the beginning of the piper right here, and it has to be above the molding line right here. Twenty-one inches from the beginning of the pipe above the molding line and drill right here. We're going to be drilling a three quarter inch hole right here with the step down bit. With the hole drilled, install the grommet. Lubricate the grommet with some WD40 and then grab the fitting and install it up to the very last thread. Just like that.
Before you reinstall this in the truck, clean it out real good so you don't get any plastic shavings inside the turbo or the engine. Reinstall the inlet pipe. Reinstall the factory hose on the backside of the pipe.
We're now going to install the catch can itself. When you install it, make sure you install it with the valve on the bottom closed. Install the four lock washers with bolts to properly secure it. Take the hose that connects to the passenger side of the catch can, connect it to the catch can, and then the port right here on the intake manifold. Now grab the hose that doesn't have any check valve in it. It's just pure hose. You're going to connect it to the top of the catch can and then to the passenger side valve cover. Take the third and final hose, connect it to the catch can, and then to the port that we installed on the turbo inlet pipe on the passenger side.
Now we can move on to installing the other catch can. Disconnect the hose that connects the driver side valve cover to the driver side turbo inlet pipe. Then disconnect the sensor on the hose. Grab the other catch can and connect the hose that does not have the sensor on it. Connect that to the driver side valve cover. Then connect the hose with the sensor on it to the driver side turbo inlet pipe. Then connect the sensor.
This kit is designed so this catch can mount to the factory air box, but we have an aftermarket intake so we're going to have to find out another mounting solution. We decided to make an L bracket to mount this catch can right here on this stud right on the firewall. You can do whatever you want just as long as the hoses will still connect to the points that they're supposed to connect to, but we just chose this option. Now you can reinstall the engine cover and the oil cap and your installation's finished.
Our UPR oil separator kit is installed. There were a couple of hiccups with the fitment, but we got it sorted out and it fits and looks great. I highly recommend these for your truck. It should definitely be one of the first modifications you do to it. Installation should take about two hours and, before you know it, you'll be heading down the road.