Air Lift Performance Air Suspension Kit 3P Complete Mustang 2015-2024

Air Lift Performance:
100% of 100


  • Five (5) Custom Preset Modes
  • Works with Free Mobile App
  • Fully Integrated Manifold
  • Proudly Made in the USA!
MSRP $5,077.28
You save 16%

Air Lift Performance Complete 3P Air Suspension Kit for 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021, 2022, 2023 and 2024 Mustangs.

When it comes to choosing the right type of suspension for your 2015-2024 Mustang, you can go with a suspension that doesn't allow for easy adjustments and isn't customizable at all. Or you can go with an air suspension system that's fully customizable and allows you to raise and lower your Mustang with the push of a button. Check out this 3P Air Suspension Kit from Air Lift Performance!

Features and Benefits:
- Comes with the Air Lift Performance 3 Controller
- Compact and Fully Integrated Manifold
- Five (5) Custom Presets
- Rise on Start: System Adjusts to Preset Ride Height When You Turn Your Mustang On
- Can be Used Even When Your Mustang is Turned Off Using the Controller or App (Show Mode)
- Free Mobile App with No Additional Hardware Needed

Please Note: This kit is NOT designed to work with vehicles that are equipped with the factory MagneRide suspension.

This Air Lift Performance 78521/78621/27682 Complete 3P Air Suspension Kit gives you everything you need to install a new air suspension system in your Mustang. You can go from a raised stance for everyday driving to a lowered stance for competitions and car shows, all with the push of a button! You get an Air Lift Performance 3 controller that offers you five custom presets. But some of the most fun features of this entire system are the Rise on Start feature and the Show Mode feature.

Rise on Start means you can preset the height you want your Mustang at when you start the ignition. The system will automatically raise or lower your 'Stang to that predetermined height as soon as you turn the key. Show Mode means you can operate your air suspension system even when your Mustang is turned off.

You can also download a free app that allows you to adjust the suspension with your smartphone, giving you yet another way to control your new air suspension system. You won't have to choose between performance, handling, or looks anymore: get the best of all worlds when you install one of these 3P Air Suspension Kits!

Kit Includes:
- Pair of Air-Over Monotube Struts
- Sway Bar End Links
- Stainless Steel Leader Air Lines
- Pair of Monotube Threaded Body Shocks
- Pair of Double Bellows Air Springs with Roll Plates
- 1/4" PTC Fittings
- 3P Digital Controller
- Integrated ECU + Manifold
- Advanced Electrical Wiring Harness
- 60 Feet of 1/4" Air Line
- Manual-Draining SMC Water Trap with 1/4” NPT Ports and Fittings
- All Wiring, Fuses, Hardware, Etc. Required for Installation
- Four (4) Gallon (5 Port) Lightweight Aluminum Air Tank in Raw Finish
- All Required Tank Fittings for Installation
- VIAIR 444C Air Compressor
- All Mounting Hardware

Front Kit Features:
- 128mm/5.0" Drop
- Double Bellows Progressive Rate Springs
- 30-Level Adjustable Damping
- Proprietary Bolt-in Camber Plates
- Threaded, Adjustable Lower Strut Mounts
- High Performance Monotube Struts
- High Quality Spherical Ball Upper Mounts
- Sway Bar End Links
- Braided Stainless Steel Leader Air Hoses

Rear Kit Features:
- 130mm/5.1" Drop
- Double Bellows Progressive Rate Springs
- 30-Level Adjustable Damping
- Threaded, Adjustable Lower Shock Mounts
- High Performance Monotube Shocks
- Roll Plates

Vehicle Fitment:
- 2015-2024 Mustang

California Residents: Proposition 65 Warning

Related Categories: Mustang Parts, Mustang Suspension, Mustang Air Ride Suspension

Installation Difficulty


Advanced skill is required for this installation.

Installation Videos

Video Transcript

If you hang out on social media, you've probably heard the term "hard parker" thrown around the car forums quite a lot. Now, normally, it's a derogatory term that's aimed at somebody who's more worried about how their car looks at a car show or cruise night than actual performance. And many times those cars have an Air Lift suspension. I'll be the first to admit, one of the cool things with Air Lifts is you can lower the car all the way to the ground and it looks great for car shows, but it allows people to forget is Air Lift is actually a high performance suspension. You have adjustable dampening, you have adjustable ride height. The same things you find in all kinds of other high end suspension. Now, I'm not going to say Air Lift is the best suspension for drag racing. It's not the best for road racing, but the nice thing about it: it's good at everything, which most suspensions aren't going to do.

A lot of people have been asking about an Air Lift installation for the S550 Mustang. Today, we're going to install this 3P kit on this 2015 Mustang GT.

This is the Air Lift 3P kit. It's going to fit all 2015 through 2017 Mustangs. And like I said, while Air Lift might not be the best suspension at any particular thing, it's probably one of the best all-around suspensions you can put on your car. Now they're going to give you everything necessary for installation, but the heart of the system, it's going to be the 3P controller. This allows you to dial in your ride height, dial in your performance, and like I said, the shocks and struts are also fully adjustable, making this really a truly versatile system. Everything needed for installation is included, including the air tank, compressor, air lines, along with new shocks and struts and the bags themselves.

One of the other myths with air suspensions, people are worried about the bags popping. Now air bag technology's been around for a long time. It's very popular in the trucking world, it's popular with pickup trucks for leveling kits. Trust me, these bags and technology behind them, they're very, very durable, and having them pop is not something you have to worry about.

This is the 3P controller that's included with the system. I say this is the heart of the system. This is ... allows you to control all the aspects of the ride height, setup, stuff like that. One cool thing with the 3P system though, is you can use this controller, you can also use your cellphone. There's an app for both Android and Apple products allowing you to control everything that the system does right from your cellphone.

For this installation, you'll definitely need a lift or a Jack and Jack stands and a well-stocked toolbox.

Before we get too far in installation, the first thing I'm going to tell you, if you've ever done shocks and struts and springs on one of these cars, you can install an Air Lift suspension. It's basically all there is to it. You're installing a tank along with a compressor controller and then a bunch of air lines and a couple electro connectors. Now what we're doing with ours, the owner of this car actually has plans of doing something different and custom with the trunk in the future, so we're not going to go crazy hiding everything.

What I did was grab a random piece of wood from a leftover pallet, what I'm going to do is bolt the pieces to that piece there, still allows to actually get to our spare tire, it'll still pop up, but it keeps it clean and out of the way. We're going to paint that to make it look a little bit better, and then begin the installation.

We're going to begin the assembly outside of the car by getting the tank ready to be installed. What we're going to do is put a bunch of fittings on here so everything can connect properly. We're going to start on the bottom. This is where your drain is going to go, and it's also going to be a purge valve and a fill valve at the same time. To start, put on of these little angle pieces right in here. Basically what you want to do is turn it. Once you get it hand tight, you grab your wrench, do one and three-quarter rotations. One and three-quarters.

Now here's where you want to figure out kind of where your configuration's going to be. Now, in our case, we're going to connect our air compressor to this side over here. This will fit right in the side of the tank on this side here. We're not going to use the lower one, we have to install a plug.

Now some of the fittings come with sealant, and some of them don't. If they don't, you want to provide some thread sealant, which you'll have to provide yourself, on the threads before you put it in.

And the same thing. One turn and a quarter. Now this side's going to go to our controller. This is going to have a filter on it. Going to grab this fitting here, you're going to put some sealant on it.

When you install the filter, you want to make sure the arrow is pointing away from the tank, and you want it in the down position when it's tight. Now we'll install a fitting on the other side of the filter.

Now for the top hole here, we'll install a plug.

These two pieces here are going to be part of this bottom fitting. This will be your pressure release valve here, which you want inside the car. This is going to be used for filling the tank, you want to mount that on the outside of the car, so those right now I'm not going to worry about, they'll be added later once we start cutting our air lines.

All right, now we're going to mount the tank. Now, if you're mounting it to the metal inside your vehicle, go there. Like I said, in our case, we're using this piece of wood from our pallet. What you want to do is basically mark the holes.

Once that's marked, now you're going to drill the holes to mount it.

Going to grab the supplied hardware and bolt everything down.

Now, the airlift controller can be mounted vertical or horizontal, but it can't be mounted upside-down. And the best place to put it is actually higher than the tank, so we're going to mount it right up here in this corner. It's plenty of space, plus, it's out of the way. We're going to bend this down ... this metal, just bend it down just a little bit just to make sure we have enough clearance for the air hoses. There's a template included. We're going to mark the holes and install it with the supplied hardware.

Now it does include self-tapping hardware. We're going to drill some small pilot holes just to make it easier.

Now we're going to start with the one we can see a little bit easier here and get it started.

All right, this point, we're going to move underneath the car and start on the suspension. We're going to begin with the rear suspension, but this is what you're going to need for each side of the rear suspension: make sure you have the correct fitting for the bag, two short bolts with lock washers, two longer bolts with lock washers, retainer, the plate for the upper, the plate for the lower, two spring perches, an upper spring mount, the bag itself, and the rear shock assembly.

We're going to start by putting the fitting into the bag itself. It already has some tape on it, so you don't need to add anything else.

Hand tight, then one and three-quarter turns.

Now you're going to take the upper mount, and you're going to take one of the upper bolts with the washer, put it through from this side here, and then install this retainer to hold it in place.

Now you grab the perch, line it up with the holes in the outside edges here, then grab your upper mount, and do the same thing. Line everything up, then install the two smaller bolts.

The rest of these pieces here will get installed on the car. So now we're going to remove our factory suspension.

We'll start by removing this bolt here to give us more space on the brake line so we can drop the sub-frame down. We're also going to remove the bolts for the top of the shock mount and the lower shock mount bolts, we're going to pull the shock off as well.

Now you want to make sure you before you do this part here, you want to use a jack or a pull jack we are, and support the sub-frame.

Like I mentioned before, make sure you have the sub-frame supported, because at this point, we're going to lower it down. Start by taking these two bolts out here, and then remove the sub-frame bolts.

Now we're going to lower the sub-frame down.

And remove our springs.

Now to install our air spring assembly, you have to grab the nut plate. This is going to go up into the factory upper spring perch, and it's what that bolt we installed earlier, is going to thread into. When you install it, make sure the nut is facing upward. Put it up there in an angle, and just sort of center it so it's flat in the upper perch.

Now you want to take the other plate, and just put it in the bottom of the control arm here, then put our assembly up into place.

I always recommend reading the instructions before you tackle an installation. If you read the instructions provided by Air Lift, it's going to tell you to line up this sight hole here with a notch on the spring plate. I've never actually seen any kind of a notch on this rear spring plate, so what you'll want to do is basically line it up with that hole is facing where that shock is going to mount, and that'll get the bag in the proper location.

On the next part, it's going to be tricky. What you have to do is basically get this bolt to thread into the plate. Now the problem is, obviously, the plate is going to spin, so you sort of have to hold it to get started, for sure, then hold it once you tighten it down as well.

Now I'm going to put the centering spacer on the underside of the control arm and thread it in the bottom of the bag. You're probably going to have to lift up on the control arm to get it to line up. Move the bag around to get it started, then tighten it down.

All right back over at our table for a minute, here, we're going to pull a cap off this, remove this nut, so we can remove the factory shock mount.

Now you see here you've got the hard and soft adjustment for the rear shocks, now you've got 30 clicks of adjustment on this. I like to start around 10. You obviously adjust this based on your driving style, how you're using the vehicle, but 10 is a good starting point.

Going to put the shock into place. What we're going to do is use the original bolts and the supplied nuts. We're going to install the hardware using the factory bolts with the supplied nuts to install the shocks.

Now we're going to install the brake line. Now you bolt the sub-frame back in.

Now you're going to repeat the process on the other side, then we're going to move onto the front.

Now we're at the front of the car, we're going to remove the strut assemblies. One of the nice things about the Air Lift suspension is they give you an entire strut assembly. There's no pieces we need from this, so we simply unbolt the factory assembly and bolt our Air Lift piece in. To start, remove two of the bolts, any two, doesn't really matter, leave the third one loose.

All right, now down in the wheel well here, we're going to start by disconnecting our sway bar, put our wrench on the back. Going to separate the AVS line now from the strut assembly.

Now you're going to move to the caliper and the rotor. So we disconnect the spindle from the strut. To do that, there's two bolts on the back of the caliper.

Just set the caliper back here out the way on the K frame.

Now the last step is to separate these nuts and bolts here to separate the strut from the spindle, what we're going to do is loosen up these nuts, then leave them on the bolts and hammer them through.

And we get the nuts just past the edge of the bolt here, but still keep them threaded on, but hammer them through. That way you don't mushroom the end of the bolt.

Now lift up on the strut and the bolt you left hand-tight here, just unthread that, and remove the assembly from the car.

The Air Lift kit also includes new end links for the sway bar, so now with everything out of the way, we're going to remove the end link.

Now you're going to prepare the front strut for installation by installing the airline itself. The line already has a sealant on it, so basically just thread it in, make it hand tight, then one and three-quarter turns.

We're going to install the fitting to go into the air hose as well, while we're here. Now you want to be careful, Air Lift includes two different fittings: one for three-eighth hose, one for quarter inch hose. The kit includes quarter inch hose, so make sure you grab the correct one. We're going to thread that on then tighten it down.

Now before we put it on the car, keep in mind these are side-specific. There'll be a little L and a little R on the bottom of the caster camber plate. Make sure you have the correct side when you go to install it.

Now we're going to put the strut assembly up into place, get these on loose for now.

With the strut hanging, now we're going to install the new end link.

Now we're going to connect the strut to the spindle.

These are splined so just give them a little tap to get them set.

Okay, now we can reinstall the brake.

All right, we're going to leave the sway bar disconnected for now, cause we want to take apart the other side so you can lift the whole sway bar up, because they're shorter end links, so repeat the process on the other side.

And then we take the AVS line, plug the clips in, just like the factory.

Okay, up in the engine bay now, we can tighten down the caster camber bolts. These are very specific, want to make sure these are at 30 foot pound. Air Lift does provide torque specs for everything with the installation, but these, I've found over the years, are very specific, so make sure you get these correct.

With the suspension installed and the manifold mounted, it's time to start running the air lines. Now, there's three basic rules to running the air line. First rule is don't kink it. Make sure you have smooth bends wherever you're going to run it to the back of the car. Secondly, keep it away from the exhaust. Don't put it anywhere near where it can get hot. It's plastic, it will melt. The third and most important rule with the airline is cut it straight. Almost every time there's a leak in an air system, it's because somebody had it like this when they cut the line. They include this nice tool, so make sure you have it nice and centered before you make your cuts.

Make sure the cut is nice and straight. If it's at an angle, it's going to leak.

We're going to pull off the splash shields. I know there's a factory grommet back there we can use. There's factory grommets on both sides for the front and both sides for the rear, so there's no reason to drill any holes. You also want to make sure with the airline ... the braided stainless line, we're going to fish it back behind here when we're finished, you want to leave a little bit of slack, but make sure it is clear of everything, cause remember, this will move when the car turns, so you want to give yourself some slack and some play in that line as well.

We're going to run our airline right through here, basically just cut the edge of this off, and then go right through this factory harness. I'll pull this out. Always want to double-check what's behind these harnesses, I just happen to know we can go right through that one without a problem. But you can see there's nothing there, so you can go right through there and just cut that off.

Now there's two different ways you can start. You can start from the manifold and fish outward. I always prefer to start back at the suspension and fish back towards the manifold. Going to bring this back behind here, start fishing the line in the interior.

Now we're going to connect to the manifold itself. We've already connected our driver side lines. Basically the way it is, it's going to be your left front, your right front, left rear, and right rear. And the way you connect this, basically you push it up and then pull back down, the little gray thing will come down, and that locks it in place.

We've figured out we're going to have our lines hitting right about here. That gives us good slack for turning and makes a good connection, so we're going to cut right there.

And the same thing, just push on, and pull to lock it in place.

We're going to install this little strap on the hose as well, just give it a little more support, make sure it stays out of the way, can move freely when it needs to.

They are not included with the kit. You can get them pretty much any hardware store.

Now the air line for the rear on the passenger side, we're going to take this grommet out from right through here, so what we'll do is once you get the line in, make a hole in this, and put it right back through.

Now getting that grommet we're going through the frame rail, there's a hole right here behind the shock, now if you want to, you can open it up a little bit more and make easier, but the line will fit through without any modifications necessary.

Our line came through right where we were supposed to put it. Now what we're going to do is modify the grommet so the line can go through. Punch a hole, just cut it slightly.

Now we're going to just sort of fish the line up from the back exit, tie it later. The fourth location, again, just push it up, tug down to lock it in place.

And here we're going to figure out how much AC hose we need to cut off. Make sure it reaches comfortably. We're going to cut it.

We're going to put this little sheath over the hose just to protect it a little bit more back here, and this is not something that comes with the kit, it's not necessary, but it'll give it more of a finished look and will protect the line a little bit better where it goes into the car.

Push in and pull out to lock it in place.

All right, we have the lines connected to our manifold. We have a few more lines to do in the trunk, but now we're going to tackle the wiring. Now I know wiring intimidates a lot of people. Really, if you've gotten this far, you're almost there. The wiring is not that bad to do. This is a complete harness that is included with the Air Lift kit. We're going to start at the back of the car where our manifold is, work our way forward, and I'll explain what everything is and where the connections are made.

Now this is what I'll call the rear wiring harness for the vehicle. Again, pretty simple to do. This connection here plugs right in the manifold, nothing to it. This here is just a simple relay, comes with a self-tapping screw, mount it anywhere in the trunk area near the manifold. This power and ground here go directly to the compressor. This is what turns the compressor on, and you'll see a secondary connection down here, this has the option to run a second compressor. The kit doesn't include one, you don't have to do that, so this is there in case you need it. The same with these plugs up here, if you got the auto-leveling option, all these plug into the levelers and power them. Now, in the case of this kit, it is not included with them, these don't do anything for this installation. So the only connections you really have to make are these two to the compressor, everything else just gets mounted, that just plugs in.

The rest of the connections are made at the front of the car. These two here, the red and the black wire, these go right to your battery and include a fuse for that connection. The pink wire here, this is going to be your switch. This is what's going to turn the system on when the car turns on. This is going to go right to your fuse box to a switch circuit, and it includes this fuse box adaptor to make it very easy to plug in. The last thing, this USB cable here, just plugs into the controller.

Now, I'm not going to bore you with watching me install the wiring harness, cause fishing wires through the car is honestly, quite boring to do, it's even more boring to watch. But what we're going to do is get the harness in the car, then we're going to show you all the actual connections as we make them.

Like I mentioned before with the wiring harness, the connections in the back are simple. The main harness plugs into the manifold, red and black go to red and black on the compressor. Now the connections up front, also pretty straightforward. You have a fused power lead, this goes directly to your battery, and then the black wire goes directly to the ground. Now, the 12 volt ignition's a little bit trickier, and we're going to show you how to do that.

The kit includes this fuse with this wiretap, now you're going to tap into a fuse to get the 12 volt ignition to turn the system on. Now you want to be careful what fuse you use. A lot of these are control modules, body modules. You don't want to use one of those. The fuse we're tapping into right here, is a little five amp fuse, this is actually for the blind spot indicator, which is an option on the Mustang. This one doesn't even have it, but it still has the fuse for using that. You got a 12 volt ignition to turn the system on.

The last connection is going to be for the controller. Now what I did, this is a USB wire, I fished it under the console, so we're just going to connect this down here, now we hit ignition, our system will be live.

Now this is Air Lift's new 3P controller. This is a lot more advanced than the older controllers they used to use. This will actually work as a controller for the system. Obviously, then you can use Bluetooth and even use your phone to control it. There's actually so much to this that we're going to do a separate video showing you all the processes of this controller and exactly how to operate it. We're going to just show you the basics here on how to get your air system working.

When you get the system connected for the first time, it's going to tell you to run a calibration. What that's going to do is basically go through the system, make sure that it controls all the bags properly, the tank has the proper pressure, everything's working like it's supposed to. Once you go through that, then you can actually set up your presets, or you can control it manually. Now, the calibration process is going to take some time. Make sure you're hooked into a battery charger of some sort, cause you will kill your battery while you're doing it. In our case, we still have it here in manual mode, and you simply can push up and down here, these are going to be your rear controls, and these will be your front controls.

Now once we have the tank mounted, there's two additional connections you want to make. The connection on the bottom is going to be a fill slash purge line, and you run it to the outside of the car to a Schrader valve, that allows you to fill the tank manually, and there's also a purge in there, you can release the air from the tank, if you want to. The other line comes from the filter. That's just a drain line that's going to have water come out of it. Just run it somewhere where it can drain easily out of the car.

Now again, when a lot of people think of Air Lift, this is what they think of. They think of the car laid out at a car show, but like I said, it's a performance suspension as well, the second part of this video, we're actually going to take the car out and drive it a little bit. We're also going to show you a lot more about how the controller works. As far as installation goes, it's a long weekend, figure even, eight to ten hours, probably total. Be back on the road in no time.

Vehicle Fitment

This product will fit the following Mustang years:

Only registered users can ask/answer questions. Please sign in or create an account.
Write Your Own Review
Only registered users can write reviews. Please Sign in or create an account