Corsa Long Tube Headers Stainless Steel 1-7/8" Mustang GT 2018-2020
- Proudly Made in the USA!
- Horsepower Upgrade
- Torque Upgrade
- 304 Stainless Steel
Corsa 1-7/8" Stainless Steel Long Tube Headers for 2018, 2019 and 2020 GT Mustangs.
California Residents: Proposition 65 Warning
Note: This item is not CARB (California Air Resource Board) exempt and is not legal for sale or use in the state of California.
We're going to be installing these Corsa long tube headers, which will fit your 2015 through 2018. Now these feature a 3/8th thick laser-cut flange, into a set of 1 7/8th primaries, into a 3" collector with a scavenging pike. In our case, we're going with a 3" off-road mid-pipe. The entire setup is made of 304 stainless steel, and Corsa includes almost everything you need to install in your 2018 Mustang GT. When I say almost everything, it's actually not 100% true. They do provide everything necessary for your 2015 through 2017, including these oxygen sensor extensions. Now in the 2018, the sensors are actually different than the 2015 through 2017. Once we reach that point in the installation though, we'll show you how to fix that.
For this installation, a lift is preferable. Now, if you're using a Jack and Jack stands, it is possible. You want to make sure you get the car as close to 3' off the ground as possible to get the headers on. As far as tools, there's no specialty tools needed. But you'll need a well-stocked toolbox, and definitely a good selection of 14 and 15mm sockets and wrenches. We're going to begin the installation in the engine bay. We're going to remove the cover, to make it a little bit easier to get down on the sides, which we'll have to do later. Then we're also going to disconnect the battery. Now while we're up here, the other thing we want to try to get is that top bolt on the factory catalytic convertor mid-pipe. Really hard to get from underneath the car. It's a little bit easier to get with some extensions and a swivel from up top.
Next thing we're going to try to do is get to the motor mounting nuts from the top, so to do that, we're going to take the cold air kit off the driver's side. When Brandon is removing the cool air kit, I'm going to start on the motor mount nut, over here on the passenger side. Here you can see it down behind the AC line. Again you'll need an extension and a swivel with a 15mm to get down on there. Do the same thing over on the driver's side.
Now that we have our car up in the air, the first thing we need to do is remove the cat-back. Whether you have a factory of aftermarket cat-back, same thing. Remove the rear hangers. Remove the front bolts. Then remove it as one piece. With the exhaust off, we're going to work on this passenger side mid-pipe. We're going to come back here, unplug the oxygen sensor, and fish it through. Then we can remove the nut. Now separate this mid-pipe here, just to give us a little more room.
Back over on the passenger side, now we're going to remove our starter. Start by removing these two wires. With the starter disconnected, now we can remove the starter bolts. All right, so the next thing in the way is going to be this motor mount bracket. Now we took the nut off up top here earlier. Now we're going to remove all the bolts and studs that hold this to the engine. You want to sort of carefully just bend this bracket out of the way here, so we can get to the nut that's underneath it. Careful you don't damage the lines. The bracket is out of the way. Now I'm going to actually see stud here, stud here, and a bolt up here. They're the ones that actually hold this bracket to the engine. Now you can loosen one of these first if you want to, but at that point, you still have two left, and you'll want to support the engine before we remove the other ones.
Now you're going to support the engine, so we can remove the engine mount. Now on the previous models, you had a metal oil pan. I was always comfortable putting a piece of wood on the corner to hold it up. I'm told you can do the same with the composite. I don't trust it. I'm going to put it right here on the transmission. Again, that mount is still connected there on the driver's side. We're just taking the passenger side mount off for now. This will be plenty safe to hold it. At this point, we're ready to actually remove the factory header. This part is very time consuming. Some of these are very hard to get to. What you want to do is pretty much grab anything in your toolbox that says 15mm, because you'll probably need it to get to one of these nuts.
All right, so with all the nuts off, we're ready to remove the header now. Unfortunately, there's just simply not enough room in here to get it off the studs. There next thing we're going to do now is grab our E8 socket and remove the studs. All right, now you can sort of work the header out. You're going to reach up and disconnect the O2 sensor. All right, we're ready to get into the installation now of our passenger side header. What you want to do is grab the correct bolts. There are two different bolts included in the kit, a silver bolt, and a black bolt. They're going to be pitch on the threads. Double check to make sure you have the correct one. Just thread it a couple of turns, you'll know pretty much immediately if it's the right one.
What we're going to do here is grab our gasket. We're going to put just the two lower bolts in. We're going to put that header up into place, and use those bolts to kind of seat it in. Now we put the header up into place. All right, so now that we got the bolts started, we're going to go back through, install the rest of the bolts on this header, and then reinstall everything we removed. Bolt down the motor mount again. Put the bracket back into place. Reinstall the starter. Then we can move onto the driver's side.
All right, so we're over here on the driver's side now to start working on removing the factory driver's side header. The only thing different on this side versus the passenger side, is obviously the steering. The first thing we're going to do is make a mark, so we can disconnect right here. With the headers bolted to the car, now we're going to start the oxygen sensors. Now this is unique for the 2018. These plugs are not the same as the previous years. That's why you can't use the extensions that are provided. Now there a couple of changes you have to make to make the wiring harnesses work. We're going to start over here on the driver's side.
Start by putting a little anti-seize into the sensor. Then we'll thread it into our Corsa header. Now here you can see the sensor does not reach for the front driver's side. This is actually very easy to fix. All you're going to do is pop this clip off, this one, this gray one back here, and this clip off here. That will give us enough slack to plug it in. Then we'll actually show you how to tie it down safely out of the way. That will give us plenty of slack to connect our sensor. This plug here can actually go right in there. Push that in, and make sure everything else is just clear out of the way. Then we're just going to slide this carefully on the wire. That will go right there. Then we're just going to put one extra zip tie up here, just to make sure everything is safely out of the way.
Now we're over on the passenger side. This is the place where you will need one additional part for the installation. The shorter harness here with the sensor is going to be your factory sensor for the front. Now this is going to plug in up by the cylinder head, and because the location is changed with the header, this will not reach. The solution? Pick up another driver's side harness and sensor. This is a longer harness, and it will actually reach up to the factory location. This is part number JR3Z9F472A and it's available on our website.
We're going to grab our new sensor with the longer harness. Put a little anti-seize on it, then thread it into our Corsa header. This is the harness here that goes down to that O2 sensor. Even with the longer wire on there, it's still going to be tough to reach, so to make life easier, what we're going to do it come up here, you pop all these clips off. Take this harness, basically fish it down over here instead. That will give you a lot more slack to be able to plug that O2 sensor. Then when you're done, just go back and make sure the harness is not touching the header anywhere, or anything hot. Make sure it's completely out of the way and safely attached. I'm going to adjust this harness a little bit. Then, put this screw here. Make sure you got a good amount of play there. Then plug in the sensor. Again, try to make sure it just stays out of the way. Keep it away from heat.
Now we're ready for the mid-pipes. Now again, we're going with an off-road setup here, as this car is going to see a lot of track time, a little anti-seize on the stock sensor. Put it in, tighten it up. We're going to start with this cone gasket. Put that up over the pipe. Bring the mid-pipe up into place, and install the supplied hardware. Then you want to line this up, and then tighten everything evenly. Then repeat the process with the driver's side.
Now with the rear harnesses, there is no issues at all as far as reaching. They are pretty much right here. You still want to make sure you tie them up safely out of the way once you have them installed. The last step here is grab the rest of the mid-pipe. Make sure you grab a clamp. Line it up, and then snug it down. Leave it loose enough to make some adjustments. Now obviously we have to button a few things up in the engine main, tighten some motor mounts, stuff like that, but the header installation is basically finished. Now with these 3" pipes here, we're definitely not putting a stock cat-back back on this car. With the Corsa headers, the perfect way to finish it off is with a Corsa cat-back.
Now if you remember when we installed the Corsa cat-backs before, they come with adapters to work with the stock pipes, because they're designed to go right to a 3" pipe, just like these headers have. So literally these are just going to slide right onto here. Then reinstall the engine cover, and your installation is finished. So the Corsa headers fit great. Now let's hear how they sound with no catalytic, and their sport exhaust.
There you have it, that's how you install long tube headers on a 2018 Mustang GT. Now whether it's a 2018, or even a 2015 through 2017, which these headers will also fit, as far as the installation goes, you want to make sure you get it custom tuned when the installation is finished. As far as time, that's going to be tricky one. You're doing this in your driveway, never did it before, it's going to take you a weekend. But if you have access to a lift, a good set of tools, figure about six to eight hours, but you'll be back on the road in no time.