cp-e Downpipe QKspl High-Flow Catted Stainless Steel 3" EcoBoost 3.5L F-150 2011-2014
- Stainless Steel Construction
- 3" Mandrel Bent Piping
- High Flow Catalytic Converter
- Made In The USA!
cp-e 3" Stainless Steel High-Flow Catted QKsple Downpipe for all 2011, 2012, 2013 and 2014 3.5L EcoBoost F-150s.
California Residents: Proposition 65 Warning
Note: This item is not CARB (California Air Resource Board) exempt and is not legal for sale or use in the state of California.
This cp-e quick spool downpipe features 3" mandrel bent stainless steel tubing to a 3.5" collector. It features an extra O2 sensor and high- flow catalytic converters to keep the check engine light and the EPA happy. This downpipe will significantly improve power and turbo spool time and today we're going to be installing it on our 2016 EcoBoost F-150.
Tools you'll need for this installation: a lift and pull jacks, or a jack and jack stands, .25" ratchet, 8mm socket, 3/8 ratchet, 13mm socket, a short and deep 15mm socket, 17mm socket, 18mm socket, 21mm, socket, various extensions, a 10mm wrench, 15mm wrench, an oxygen sensor wrench, and you may need something to cut your exhaust such as a sawzall, and safety glasses.
Now, the very first thing you're going to want to do before you even put the truck up in the air, is take the engine cover off so you can get to the oxygen sensor for the driver's side and unplug it. You're going to want to get the wire out of its loop right here, so you can drop the connector down and easily remove it.
Now, we're finishing the engine bay, we're going to put the truck up in the air and remove the belly pan. There's 4 8mm bolts securing the center tray on. Get the pan out of the way.
This blue wire right here is the wire for the oxygen sensor on the passenger side, you have to disconnect that as well. The connector is up on top of the transmission. You have to pull the wire out of its loop so you can pull it down, disconnect it, and there you go.
The downstream oxygen connector for the passenger side is up on top of the transmission as well, but a little towards the rear ... Then you have to pull the wire out of its loop as well. The driver's side downstream oxygen connector is also on the rear of the transmission. Pull it out of its loop.
The next thing we have to remove is the transmission crossmember right here but before we do that we're going to support the transmission using a pull jack and a block of wood. You don't need to jack up on the transmission, you just need to support it. Just put a little bit of tension on it. Just like that.
For the transmission support, you can remove the 4 13mm bolts on this plate right here. Oh, wow, that has some weight. There's a heat shield on both sides of the crossmember secured to the top of it with a 10mm bolt that we need to remove.
We can now disconnect the downpipe from the cat back. We're now going to drop this crossmember. We're first going to remove the 21mm nuts holding the crossmember to the transmission mount, then we're going to work on the side bolts.
To drop the crossmember, it's secured in place with a 15mm bolt and 18mm nut. Remove the 2 bolts on the other side of the crossmember as well. The reason we drop the crossmember is so the downpipe can actually come down. Before, if we tried to remove the downpipe, it would hit the crossmember and you wouldn't be able to remove it but also we need to remove these mounts on the downpipe as well.
The driver's side of this transmission mount has 3 bolts to remove. 1 silver one, which we will remove first, and then 2 black ones. Then you can get to these 2 bolts with an extension pretty easily. Make sure you hold the mount for the last bolt so it doesn't fall down. With all the bolts removed you can slide it off the downpipe. We can now disconnect the downpipe from the turbos.
We have a bunch of wobble extensions right here, to give us a nice arc to make removing the bolts on the turbos a little easier. We're going to go for the top nut first and this is where the wobble extensions are really going to help. Probably don't need as many extensions for this one. On the passenger side, I'm actually going through the wheel well over the frame to get to the top bolt on this turbo. All right with all the nuts off, you can remove the downpipe.
Now that we have the downpipe off the truck, we can transfer over the oxygen sensor to this cp-e downpipe. It's very important that we don't mix these up, they need to stay on the same side and they need to stay on the front and rear. We're going to apply some anti-seize just to make our life easier in the future if we have to remove it. It's very important that you don't get the anti-seize on the sensor, it can damage it.
With the oxygen sensor in the downpipe, we're going to reinstall the transmission mount and then completely assemble the downpipe before putting it on the truck. Make sure you put the clamps on the Y pipe and then you can connect everything together. Just leave everything for now and then we'll tighten it up once it's in the truck. You're probably going to need some assistance when putting it in the truck, you're going to want to put it in as one unit.
Reinstall the transmission mount bolts. Reinstall the hangar bracket on the transmission mount. You can now tighten up both flanges on the turbos. Move on to the other side.
Depending on which cat back exhaust you have, you may need to trim the front pipe. As you can see in our case, our front pipe is just a little bit too long because the cp-e downpipe is a little longer than the factory downpipe so we're going to need to trim 2 inches off this front pipe. Install the provided hardware on the front pipe. You will need to use these bolts, the factory bolts don't have enough thread on them ...
Then tighten up all your clamps ... Reconnect your oxygen sensors ... Reinstall the transmission crossmember ... Install the 2 nuts securing the transmission mount to the crossmember ... Reinstall the bolt on top of each side of the crossmember securing the heat shield to the crossmember ... Tighten down the crossmember bolts ... Reinstall this crossmember as well ... Now that the cross members are firmly in place, we can lower the poles supporting the transmission ... and reinstall the splash pan.
Now we can move up to the top of the truck and reconnect the last oxygen sensor. Make sure you get the wire back in its hoop so it's nice and secure and doesn't melt on anything ... Put the covers back on the engine ... And your installation is finished.
All right, let's see what it sounds like ... Our cp-e quick spool downpipe is installed. As expected, fit and finish is absolutely great. It should really help the turbos spool up a lot quicker. Installations take about 2 to 3 hours and before you know it, you'll be heading down the road.