JKS Manufacturing Suspension Lift Kit 2-1/2" With JSPEC Shocks And Heavy Duty Coils Jeep Wrangler JL 2018-2022

We've had our JL Wrangler for 24 hours. It's time to lift it. Let's get started.

If you're looking to increase the ride height of your JL Wrangler and increase the articulation, then you're going to want to check out this JKS JL Wrangler 2.5" Lift Kit fitting your 2018 JL Wrangler. This JKS lift kit comes with everything that you need to get it bolted up under your two-door Wrangler. It features their proprietary coil springs, which are made right here in the US, and also their new track bar with their quick disconnects, and shocks, which feature Jspec's custom valving to ensure that your ride quality is just as good as the factory, if not better.

Now, this lift kit is going to install simply onto our 2018 JL two-door Wrangler, and we should net about 2.5 to 3 inches of lift and allow us to run up to a 35" tire on a Sport or Sahara, and up to a 37 on a Rubicon. Let's get it thrown onto our Jeep and see how it looks.

Jeep's up on the lift, and the wheels and tires are removed. We're going to get started removing this track bar, since the kit comes with a new one. Grab yourself a 21mm socket and a box wrench, and start with this upper bolt right here. Make sure that you save this hardware after you pull it off. Do the same thing for the lower mount, except on the back side there's a nut tab, so you don't have to get a ratchet or a wrench or anything back there. Go ahead and pull the hardware out, and then you can remove your old track bar. Make sure you save that hardware, like I said.

While we have the axle supported, we're going to get these sway bar links removed using an 18mm socket. There's another nut tab on this side, so you don't have to hold anything on the inside to get this off. After the lower bolt is out, you're going to work on the top one. If it does decide to stick or not spin, you're going to have to use a 6mm Allen key to get it loose. For your 18, use a box wrench, and then put that 6 into the end of the bolt, and slowly get it off. Remove these 10mm bolts that hold on the brake line and the ABS line, and repeat the same process on the other side.

We're behind the front axle, and right here is your actuator for that disconnecting front axle shaft. Go ahead and pull this clip backwards, and then pull this straight out towards you. Now we're going to remove this lower shock bolt by using that same 18mm socket and wrench. Get your bolt out. Might have to use a little bit of leverage here, because it is a little bit stuck. In there with some pressure, and I know you YouTube mechanics are probably going to have a perfect suggestion, but this is how I do it. Repeat the same process on the other side.

Now you can remove your springs with the axle drooped. It should be pretty simple. Repeat the process on the other side. There's an 18mm bolt up here holding on the shock. Pull back the inner liner and grab a socket and just get that pulled off. Now repeat the same process on the other side.

Now install your new coil spring. Make sure that you also install the bump stop extension in at the same time. Put the bolt through the bump stop extension, then go ahead, put a washer and your lock nut on the bottom side. Use a 9/16 socket and a box wrench underneath. Get it nice and snug. Now repeat the same process on the other side.

Now were going to install our new Jspec shocks. I'm going to start by putting this top end through, and then using the original hardware, putting it through the hole. Let's get this lower shock mount into place, and then use the factory hardware for it as well. We're going to bolt tighten now with an 18mm socket and a box wrench for this lower one. Get the top bolt tightened up. Get the bolts torqued down to 60 foot-pounds. Repeat the same process on the other side.

We've installed the longer sleeve on the top end of the sway bar, and I'm also going to insert this polyurethane spacer onto that end. This is going to go closer to the sway bar. Use their provided M12 x 75mm bolt with a washer. Work from the outside in. Then put another washer on the inside and your mechanical lock nut. Now move on to the lower part.

This is where things get a little bit different if you have a Sport or Sahara or a Rubicon model. The difference, if you have a Sport or Sahara, you're going to actually have to cut this tab off here. That's what connects your factory sway bar link. On this lower end, you will get the bar pin there where you can actually disconnect this. However, since we install a lot of lift kits on this Jeep, we can't really cut this off. Since we're going to be putting more lifts, new sway bar links, we can't lose this, so we're going to install it like we would on a Rubicon.

However, if you've got a Sport, just cut this off, put the bar pin in there. It's super simple. We're just going to do it our way right now by putting a lower bushing on. And then you also get a 1/4" spacer right here. It's going to go through that point. Then we'll just use our factory bolts and that factory nut tab on this side. That's what you do if you have a Rubicon model. If you do have a Sport or Sahara and you want to utilize these quick disconnects, which I would highly recommend, you're going to have to sacrifice this. You're going to have to lop it off. Just a quick heads-up for you guys. Go ahead and repeat the same process on the other side.

We're going to install the included JKS track bar now. Rough estimates is to set it to 34 inches. Going to have to do a final alignment when it's back on the ground. You're going to use factory hardware to get this back bolted up. After the bolts are in, go ahead and get them tightened up with that 21mm socket and a box wrench on the back. Get it snugged up here in the air, and then we're going to torque it when it's on the ground. Tighten down this lower bolt the same way, 21mm socket. This is a little bit easier because you have that nut tab on the back side. Get it snugged up, then we'll get it torqued down when it's on the ground. Oh yeah, brother. Reinstall your brake line and ABS sensor bracket. Then we'll do the same on the other side, and your front end install is complete.

We’re over here at our JL on the passenger side, we’re going to pull off this 10mm bolt here first. That's how we're going to get started working on the rear. Pop it off, and I'm going to put the bolt back in there. That way I don't lose it. As I've said before, 23 times in this video, repeat the same process on the other side.

Get this lower sway bar link pulled off using an 18mm socket with an 18mm wrench. Put the hardware back in the sway bar link. That way you don't lose it. You're going to be reusing it. Pull the upper sway bar link. You might have to use an Allen key like we do here. Pull the sway bar link off, and set it aside for later.

After you've got the sway bar links removed, now we can work onto this lower shock mount. Same thing, 18mm sockets to get it pulled off. Now we're going to get this bolt out of here. Remove the rear upper shock bolt using the 18mm socket. Track bar pulled off on the driver side lower mount here. There's a relocation bracket that we're going to attach, so use a 21mm to get it pulled off. Lower the axle enough so you can pop these coil springs out, and retain this isolator here as you're going to reuse it.

Place your new JKS coil spring into place, and make sure that you get the rubber isolator at the top. Install the sway bar link into your upper mount, then I'll just snug up the included hardware. Same with the lower. Just get it into place, snug it up. It's going to take a 15mm socket to get it fully tightened. Tighten up both ends of your sway bar links. Put this bump stop extension right into place over here, and then grab your included hardware, the two washers and a mechanical lock nut, and go in through the top. There's already two predrilled holes, pretty simple, and then just put the nut down there at the bottom. Slip the other nut into the back. I'm going to use two 1/2" box wrenches to get these tightened up.

Now we're going to get this track bar relocated. Go ahead and grab this bracket, included with the kit, and it's going to slide right behind. Set this other section of the bracket into place. Set this bracket in front here, and use the included hardware through the lower hole with a spacer. That way it doesn't collapse on you when you tighten it up. It's kind of tricky to do, but if you work at it, it'll go. Put a washer and lock nut on the back side. And then up top here, I'm going to put the factory bolt on without the track bar in just to hold it in place because we're going to have to drill some holes. I'm going to get this bolt tightened up. That way we can figure out where it needs to be to drill these holes.

In order to get this relocation bracket fully mounted up, we're going to have to drill two holes over here. Get a 3/8" drill bit and just drill them out. I'm going to leave the bracket on. You could, honestly, you could take it off if you want to. However, I'm just going to let it on there. That way I know it's exactly where it needs to be.

We're going to go ahead and use the supplied hardware. I'm going to go ahead and put it through from the back side. That way there's less chance of it hitting that coil spring and binding up. I put it in this way just so that way we have the same amount of pulling force on each side. We're going to use a 9/16 wrench to get these tightened up. Up here, same thing. Use the provided hardware. Go from the inside out. Washer, then a mechanical lock nut. It's going to use a 9/16 socket and 9/16 box wrench to get it tightened up good.

We're now going to install the JKS rear shocks. I'm going to start with this top mount. Tighten it up with an 18mm socket. Reuse the factory hardware down below. Same thing, 18mm socket and a wrench to get that tightened up. After you've got the lower one tightened up, get the top one nice and tight. Put the factory bolt up top. Might be a little bit tricky. Get a friend to help push on the rear end, then we'll use that factory nut tab behind it.

And that's it. Your lift kit's complete. Well, that's a wrap, guys. You can see we've got our JL JKS Lift Kit installed onto our two-door Wrangler. It looks absolutely incredible. We went ahead and put some 35" Mud Claw tires on it, wrapped around some Black Rhino Armory wheels, available also here at CJs.

Now, this lift kit takes about four or five hours to install, and you'll need a basic mechanic's tool set. Anything up to a 22mm socket will get you done the right way. Now, you could find this lift kit, as well as many other accessories for your two-door Wrangler, right here at CJPonyParts.com.